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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 01:38 PM
phileas_fogg
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 1,105
From my build log:

Post 397

While I was working on the top foot box panel, on a whim I checked to see if the slot for the windshield post was wide enough. It wasn’t. A little quality time with a sanding attachment in my drill followed up by some more quality time with a file fixed that.

IMG_4419 by jhsitton, on Flickr

I checked the other side, and sure enough, there was interference on the right as well.

IMG_4419 by jhsitton, on Flickr

This time the file alone did the trick.


John

Post 423

Windshield Part 1

The past couple of weeks I’ve been preparing my windshield for installation.

I purchased the stainless steel inserts from Whitby, and so started by taking the lower portion of the windshield frame off the glass to install them. Inside each lower corner is a brass stiffener with two screws securing each leg to the chrome.

IMG_4798 by jhsitton, on Flickr

Using the brass side inserts to hold the screws, I sanded each one to 0.24” - enough to secure the stiffener but not enough to dimple the rubber around the glass.

IMG_4795 by jhsitton, on Flickr

IMG_4795 by jhsitton, on Flickr

After getting the stiffener screws adjusted, I test fit the Whitby inserts. I found that the top screw (1) was drilled slightly higher than the hole on the windshield post, and (2) was not quite long enough to “bite” into the insert. So I took the Whitby inserts out and replaced the brass ones…you know what’s coming, but more on that later.

After reassembling the windshield frame, I test fit the side posts. There was significant mismatch at the top.

IMG_4807 by jhsitton, on Flickr

IMG_4807 by jhsitton, on Flickr

I wrapped the leg of the side post in some cloth towel, clamped it in my vise, and GENTLY twisted the post with a crescent wrench; I wrapped some more cloth between the wrench and post. [Emphasis added] Once I got the top end close to matching the windshield frame it was time to see how it fit on the car.


John

Post 424

Windshield Part 2

Last week CraigS came over to help me test fit the windshield to the car. We found that slots cut by F5 were fine on the inboard side, but had to be widened on the outboard side. The slots also needed to be lengthened both fore and aft, primarily the latter.

We must have had that windshield in and out 20 times, trimming the right side post, trimming it again, adding a washer to this post, adding two washers to that post, GENTLY bending the lower half of the post to point more inboard, GENTLY twisting the post arm to get the top to line up, etc.

PRO TIP #1: Drill the windshield post holes 27/64” diameter and tap each to accept the 1/2”-13 bolt. After you’re happy with the fit, then put a nut on the back side of the bolt to secure the post. This makes test fitting MUCH MUCH easier. [Emphasis added]

When we were reasonably happy with how the posts were fitting, we took the posts off the windshield, bolted them to the car and laid the windshield into place. Surprise, surprise, the windshield was 1/4” wider than the posts. So back out with the posts, add a couple of washers, back in with the posts, test the windshield, etc.

PRO TIP #2: If the rubber gasket at the bottom of the windshield frame has daylight under it anywhere, that indicates that your posts are too close together. It’ll lay evenly and provide a good seal when you’re close.

PRO TIP #3: Pay attention to the gap between the body and the windshield post side. As you tighten the 1/2” bolts, this gap should stay the same. If the gap changes, stop, figure out what’s not right, and correct it. The same goes for when you put the nuts on the bolts.

Then just as Craig and I were ready to tighten the 1/2” post mounting screws I stripped the top screw hole on the brass. So we called that a day.


John

Post 425

Windshield Part 3

After stripping the brass insert, I went to work modifying the Whitby inserts so that they fit correctly. I cut each Whitby insert in two just above the second top-most screw. The kerf of the Dremel wheel gave just enough room to slide the top part of the insert down so that the screw holes lined up. I also purchased some longer screws and cut them down to size. With that done, I reassembled the posts onto the windshield.

Then with Craig’s help, we test fit the windshield another half dozen or so times. We set the angle of the windshield such that the measurement from the top inner edge of the door frame behind the door to the center of the top-most screw in the windshield post is 27”. We used a paint stick to provide temporary spacing under the bottom seal to ensure the bottom corners of the windshield frame didn't touch the body. We used regular nuts to secure the windshield; for several of the bolts there just wasn’t enough room to fit a nyloc nut due to frame interference.

Finally, success.

IMG_4828 by jhsitton, on Flickr

This project took some doing; we must have test fit the windshield two dozen times or more to get the spacing and angles right.


John

P.S. Special thanks to Ron, a.k.a. picah, for his detailed windshield installation description (posts #315 & #316 https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...build-log.html)

NOTE: The F5-provided windshield post trim rings take a 7/64” pilot hole for the mounting screw.

MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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