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post #285 of (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
IsaacW
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 254
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Back to The Dash for a bit. Final mock-up completed, we picked up some Landau Contact cement from the local Home Depot. In hindsight all we needed for the dash and seats would have been about 1 Cup, but we may end up using it for the carpet in which case we will probably use the majority of it. But back to the final dash mock-up.

Driverís main view. Call me weird, I want to see the speedo as my primary gauge with my left arm blocking the view of the left gauge. Force of habit for eyeball movement, and thatís the main information I want.



Middle of the dash. Gauges are in order of importance from left to right and top to bottom, roughly grouping temps and pressures close to each other. The clock will not be remaining, but will be replaced by an electronic fuel pressure gauge with a pressure sender at the fuel rail when I replace the stock fuel rail. I have the wires there waiting.



Received my Headlight Switch and ignition switch and got them temped in place. Heated seat switches ... check. Ordered a hazard light switch and high beam switch from Amazon; they are a couple toggle buttons with icons and indicator lights from what appears to be the same company under two different names. Etopar? Esupport? Ok...... anyway. That concludes my gauge and switch mock-up..... time to stop procrastinating and get the dash assembled.

To support the dash we cut 4 pieces of aluminum angle bracket and countersunk screws into the dash. Before I glue the covering on, I wanted to make sure the screws donít create any irregularities on the surface of the covering once itís done. We use some epoxy spread thinly across the screw heads and countersink divots. I let that dry overnight sitting face up to let it spread as evenly as possible.



After letting that dry, we sand the epoxy down a little to make it flush, and then we clean the surface off with acetone. More cleaning after bending and fingerprints.

So whatís next? The assembly directions donít do a great job of telling you what order to do what task in. After staring and thinking about it, I decide to first mark a sharpie reference mark on the back of the dash covering, then roll the ends of the dash and bend a 90 at the notches, paint on the Landau Cement, let it dry, and then stick the dash onto the covering and roll it together. Iím trying to avoid glueing the dash and covering it before bending it. We will see how this goes.

First I mark the covering on the white back for reference along the bottom lip of the dash. Then I grab a quart paint can and head to a long flat surface to try to roll these edges. Canít lie, Iím afraid Iíll screw up. This is what I have to curve inward.



They say you can use a paint can to roll the ends ....



Here goes. I grasp the end against the paint can and roll the two toward the center of the dash, firmly keeping the two held together.



So far so good.... itís rolling around the paint can.....



And I keep rolling until the end wraps almost completely around the can. The bend is nice and smooth.... now to bend the end 90-degrees. There are two circular notches that mark there the ends of the bend should be. My old reliable hand tongs make short work of the bend.







And there we have one end done .... repeat the process for the other end.... almost. The end of the metal at the Passenger end of the dash needs a little trimming, but just a little, and a rebend at a slightly different angle to avoid hitting the dash. In this picture the dash is putting a little pressure on the firewall.



A little snip-snip along the bottom, and my sharpie mark showing the estimated rebend angle ....



Continued....




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