Factory Five Racing Forum banner

J. H. MK4 9551 Build

65K views 568 replies 37 participants last post by  jhargrove 
#1 · (Edited)
Day 1 Delivery Day

3 - 8 - 19

Today was the day! Everything almost went smoothly. My chassis dolly broke. I have it on jacks. I plan on beefing of the dolly and giving it another go. I like the idea of being able to move it.

My engine was not complete but I only have to put on serpentine kit.

Inventory and body removal is my next two goals.

The rack I made to hang the body will need to be moved. Besides that I'm ready.

It seems most of my kit came except box 12 which is the header assembly. However I'm not exactly sure about the rest of this paper work to see if other stuff is missing. A little confusing for now but I will slow my roll and figure it out.

Here are some pics!
 

Attachments

See less See more
4
#152 · (Edited)
Day 62

10 of 162 total hour

7-30-2019

It's been awhile since posted to this. To be honest the times are a estimate. I kinda lost track a little.

I started

1. Fuel regulator and filter. I need fitting to go from hard lines to flex.

Any one know exactly what I need I would appreciate some help here? So I no what I need to buy from the hardware store. I used the bigger fuel lines from ffr. To and return the same. The fitting from FFR on the preflared fuel line is a male. I'm wanting to go to 3/8 flex line. I went to the store a couple times. I just have not bought the right thing yet.

Then that will be done. I also want to go from a 2ft braided to 1 ft.

2. Drive shaft. It's in. Alignment will need to be done later.

Question:

I am sure I can figure it out I just have not had time. However just incase I will throw it out there.

There is a electrical terminal that is in the transmission tunnel off the harness.

There is a terminal on the the TKO 600. Seems like they should mate. They dont. Are they suppose to go together?


3. Side exhaust. I have a new design from what I can gather. I have header to ball joint to side exhaust. No issues with these. Anyone reading this you will need to find in the kit and or buy 2 1/2 in long, 3/8 in bolts. All the brackets move on the ball joints. You can position the side exhaust pretty much how you want.

I left the hangers off. I did not realize the pipes can hang there no problem while I test the engine. My alignment is not right I can see that so I did not put the hangers on.

Any one have the need for speed!
Jason

I have to say the header and pipe combo looks amazing! I dreamed about a car with side pipes since I was a kid. Love it!
 

Attachments

#153 ·
For your fuel line fittings, call Mark Reynolds at Breeze. He's got the parts you need, and can talk you through the setup.

The electrical connector in the transmission tunnel connects to the speed sensor on your transmission. IIRC the complete kit provides one based on the transmission you've selected. Or maybe you're trying to plug it in to the wrong connector on the transmission?

Congratulations on getting the side pipes mocked up. Those'll be fine without the hangers for your first start & go kart.


John
 
#156 ·
Hard line to flex

There are a lot of ways to go hard line to flex, right and wrong, and many variations of right..

I do a lot of custom stainless lines and except for brakes use Swagelok fittings. They are professional fluid flow products available in many materials; carbon steel and stainless steel = automotive go to and usually in-stock. Typical for fuel Tube socket to AN male is available for 3/8 and 1/2 tubing Swagelok to AN-6 or -8.

Swagelok fittings are only sold through their fluid flow distributor network but in most areas are not difficult to find.

If you are set up to do your own 37 deg AN flaring there is also the AN union route (both firewall and non-firewall style) for hard line to flex. Flare your tubing and install a union to take the flex connection. I like Aeroquip for these fittings (and most all AN fittings) for their different hose types I use.

Happy plumbing
 
#159 · (Edited)
Day 63-83
20 of 183 total hour
8-29-2019

It's been a month since I posted in this thread. The times are estimated. I have been doing individual threads to get more responses.

The biggest thing is I'm pretty much ready to get the engine tested and tuned. I hand built the engine last year. So I'm excited to see it run and get the numbers. I wanted a professional to do the first start just in case. I have an appointment for Sept 5.

I got the car off the jacks and it stood up just fine.

I did some alignment I still need to adjust that.

I capped off the extra water pump outlets and thermostat Housings outlet.

I am not happy with the radiator fill tubing. I was thinking of buying Breeze fill tubing. What I have is fine for the start.

Distributor hold down. Lol I didn't know I needed one.

I found what I needed to finish the fuel lines. I think I will learn how to make braided lines while the car in the shop and convert later.

This included
Fuel filter
Fuel pressure Regulator
Fuel pressure gauge

It seems what I read was the carbs are sensitive so I got a regulator. The fuel pump min is right on the edge of the fuel pressure max for the carbs.

I velcro the dash with gauges until I'm ready to secure it.

I'm tempted to secure the steering wheel now. If I need to remove later for whatever reason I can use a puller.

I put the oil stick in.

Adjusted the drive shaft angle a little. It seems alot better. I still need to buy a spanner wrench and set the height to finish that.

It does not seem like a lot for a month but I have worked overtime shift every week all summer. So time been issue.

Plus I'm nervous to let the shop see my work. So I think I have been procrastinating. Lol It will be hard to hear what needs to be redone on the engine.

Jason
 
#165 · (Edited)
Update

For those who have been following what I have been doing the last year and a half would know that I hand build my engine from the block up. I thought it best to have a professional do the first start incase there was something wrong that I would not be able to detect with my non experiance.

Anyways they finally got to it.

After two primer tries. It started right up!!!!

I do not have video that I can post. As soon as I do I will.

The guy said it sounds awesome and he doesn't see any issues and congratulates me for "one hell of an accomplishment"

He says he wants to do some odds and ends then do the baseline tune.

Thank God!! I was so scared there would be something totally wrong.

Thanks to all who gave advise. I could not have got it there with out you.

Jason
 
#170 · (Edited)
Update

The shop has had the cobra for 3 weeks. Ahhhhh! They only worked on it about three days. They are supper busy! It's just the way it is. They have been awesome otherwise.

There was some leaks and odds and ends to do.

One of the major things was the rear brakes were not sealing. Apparently the PS rear caliper is leaking through the spring.

Do you guys think it is defective or is it something that I did when I assembled the caliper?

When I told him I I asymbled the caliper he said that I may want to try redoing it.

Besides that the two major things they did was. The electric work for the engine and base tune the engine to include the initial timing setting.

They had to rework my linkage a little bit. That is an issue. The accelerator cable is not compatible with the linkage. So they will come up with something. I could probably do it myself but they have the car so I'm just going to let them do it. Unfortunately that means another week. They said the end of the week. That should be it.

They also said the progressive linkage is not allowing the secondary carb to open 100% they will try to figure out why. Most likely something I did. (Edelbrock dualquads)

Unfortunately they will not let me go cart it there because of the rear brakes. The front work.

We initially we had issues getting the clutch plate to work properly. I was very worried about that when I left.

He immediately emailed video with it working. He pulled it forward and backed it up. He apologized for being the first. Hey as long as it worked. He said he does not know why but he ran through the gears and no problems.
First start and go cart we had planned for me to be there. It just did not work out that way. Technically he did not go cart. He just let the clutch out and eased it forward and back.

So doing it this way I did miss out on some major milestones. First start and the initial movement. However I feel good knowing that the engine electric and tuning was done proprofessionally and the drivetran was inspected and approved by a pro. I do feel bad about not doing some of this. But I built the motor that's more than some so I give myself a break I guess.

Unfortunately his videos will not post to this site and mine will not either I guess.

Bottom line the car is pretty much go cart ready and the drivetran is awesome!

BTW the engine sounds absolutely amazing! Everything I could want in a car. Throaty and load and fantastic!

Jason
 
#171 ·
awesome, jason! i can't wait for the day to get my engine running. i've been dragging my feet recently on the build. started putting the engine back together but snapped a couple of head bolts while torquing the heads back on have slowed me down. bought a whole new bolt set so hopefully that fixes that issue.
 
#172 ·
Yikes that's some toque!!

During my engine build I was trying to bolt something I believe the girdle or windage tray

Anyways it said something like 120 for torque. I assumed ft pounds. (Which is a lot) I kept breaking the 1 st bolt like it was butter. Lol. The spec was in inch pounds. Lol crazy. It took a couple to figure it out.

Yes thank you it sounds amazing. It took me a year to build my engine. So dont beat yourself up on time. It's essential that the engine runs right so take your time.

Jason
 
#173 · (Edited)
Finally some video thanks to Silver

https://youtu.be/oCVSafI4ZmQ
https://youtu.be/YHsE1lYxlBA
https://youtu.be/AagYLVzX2Y4

As I said the tick mentioned has all but disappeared. He suggested I check the zero lashing to make sure.

Something I did not catch that the mechanic caught was the temp gage is in Celius. Lol I guess I need one I fahrenheit. Or is C standard for the Vintage GPS?

I check to make sure the speed was in MPH and it is.

Jason
 
#176 ·
The temp gauge being in C is a throwback to the British derived originals kind of like the reverse winding speedometer. Speaking of the speedo; I see that you have it left with tach on the right. You might want to consider swapping those to provide better visibility of the actual usable portion of both. After viewing the video I think the "tick" is a header leak.

Jeff
 
#177 ·
Makes sense. I think I remember reading that now. I'm surprised I did not remember. I tend to love the history aspect.

Awesome only a header leak. I will tighten it up. Thank you. I don't hear it at all. Sat he said he could bearly hear it. He was not concerned. No matter what I will tighten all that up again

Thank you always looking out for us

Jason
 
#178 · (Edited)
Day 100 est
200 total hour est
11-06-2019

It's been 2 mo since I posted to this. A lot has happened. I have not had a whole lot of time to work on the Cobra.

1. Engine start and Base tune.
Everthing works pretty good some tinkering needs to be done. One add gas lol very important.

The fuel pump connections need re worked.

The flex fuel lines need reworked. I want braided and the lines are too close to the headers.

The headers need tightened.

2. 1st Go Cart.

Car runs great up to 20 miles per hour and 2 and gear. That's the best I get in front of the house.


3. Replaced the rear ps caliper and bleed brakes.

4. Installed the E Brake.

I'm concerned that the handle is too close to the aluminum for koolmat and carpet clearance.

5. Install the glove box door.

This was not fun I still need to tweak this.

I was considering leaving the box off and seeing if I can successfully install a heater behind the door. Then put a block off of some sort behind the glove box door.

6. I had to replace the negative cable on the battery. The FFR one did not fit my battery.

I was thinking about ordering a nice Billet Specialties Battery mount/case in the trunk.

Jason
 
#179 · (Edited)
Day 101 est
204 total hour est
11-14-2019

Back to aluminum.

Top of transmission tunnel
Shifter plate - I had to put a notch on the end for reverse to not hit the plate.
Transmission plug plate
Finished DS footbox aluminum (mostly) still needs some items plugs and blocks and such. And the expansion needs to be riveted.


Small progress but it's something. It's hard to find time these days. It was good to get back to the instructions and feel confident in what I'm doing and see progress. It's been a long time. The ebrake was really hard for me. I have been doing some miscellaneous task too. The glove box is not good. I will have to go back to that.

It's not letting me post pics. The forum says I exceeded my quota???

Jason
 
#180 ·
Day 101 est
204 total hour est
11-14-2019

Back to aluminum.

Top of transmission tunnel
Shifter plate - I had to put a notch on the end for reverse to not hit the plate.
Transmission plug plate
Finished DS footbox aluminum (mostly) still needs some items plugs and blocks and such. And the expansion needs to be riveted.


Small progress but it's something. It's hard to find time these days. It was good to get back to the instructions and feel confident in what I'm doing and see progress. It's been a long time. The ebrake was really hard for me. I have been doing some miscellaneous task too. The glove box is not good. I will have to go back to that.

It's not letting me post pics. The forum says I exceeded my quota???

Jason
From what I understand it only lets you direct post so many pics. I have to post hyperlinks to hosted pics, not the pics themselves. Total PITA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#181 · (Edited)
Day 103 est
206 total hour est
12-05-2019

I have not had hardly any time to work on the car.

As for not starting battery dead and ground

I switched out the odyssey battery for a standard group 58 battery as recommended in the manual.

The odyssey battery was leaking fluid and the posts were not attached properly. That was the ground issue and the battery was faulty and or failed in addition to that.

I got it started back up with no problem. Yippy! Even drove it around the block a couple times

Started the process of looking at the electric behind the dash to verify everything is connected and done properly. The gauges are still funky. They move and stay in place when I shut the car off.

I called FFR and he said the connections are most likely wrong. I did manage to set the time and get the fuel gauge to the empty side instead of the full side.

I also had the clutch safety switch wired backwards. So that I had to have the car in neutral and no clutch. If the car is in gear it word jump forward. Not safe.

I reversed the wires and now it starts properly, requiring the clutch to be engaged to get the car to start.

That's it for now.

I still have a ton of behind the dash work to do before I can secure it

Drill, wire and place turn signal switch
Place horn and wire
Drill and place GPS selector
Drill and place dash dimmer
Make sure the Wiring is correct for headlights.
Redo glove box
Buy and install wipers

I still have to tighten down the headers.

Jason
 

Attachments

#183 · (Edited)
Day 113est
220 total hour est
1-4-2020

Headlights/turn signals/hazards

With a lot of help I got all the lights and switches working properly.

For people getting ready to do this process here are a couple things I learned.

As plenty of people said

Properly ground everything.

1. The lights share harness ground wires.
2. The tail lights and parking brake lights share power wires.
3. You need at least 3 switches
A. High/low beam
B. Turn signal on/off/on
C. Hazards on/off 6 prongs
4. Flasher wires go in the middle.
5. Make sure all your fuses are working and in the the right place!!! This ultimately was my only issue.
6. Hazard/Brake fuse are the same fuse. (atleast in my head that may be simplified) That 15 fuse in the brake lights fuse spot runs both.
7. Brake light/clutch pedal switch may need to be reversed if not working.
8. Vintage GPS fuel gauge need calibrated and the gauges do not zero out when you shut them down

Next

1. Turn signal/high beam indicator seems super easy with the Vintage GPS.

2. Start thinking about drilling holes in my beutiful dash for the switches and such. I am not artistic and have a heavy hand so I hope it looked good. But that part of the build.

Jason
 
#184 ·
Day 114 est
221total hour est
1-5-2020

I got to spend an hour today and made all the indicator connections.

Everything works perfectly

Left
Right
Hazards
High beam

All correspond with switch and lights.

All combo work including corresponding indicators

I Checked

Nothing on
Hazards all function
Brake lights function

Lights off key on

Left low
Right low
Hazards

Lights on first postion

Left high
Right high
Hazards
Running lights

Lights on second poistion

Headlights on high and low
Left
Right
Hazards

Jeff K. I tried to switch around the speedometer and Tac but I had to squeeze the in the first time and although they would eventually come out to swap them I feel like I could crack something. So I decided to leave them

I broke a prong connector on the turn signal switch waiting for that then I can start finishing the dash and securing it.

I want to put wipers so I will wait for those too. I thought I could use any switch as a place holder so I can finalize the dash while I'm waiting to buy the wiper kit.

I tried make a video the indicator one kinda turned out. Like I said the switch is broke so it was not easy keeping the one connected.

Jason

 
#185 ·
awesome jason! one step closer. i'm still waiting on my dash to get back from the upholsterer, but will be wiring soon.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top