2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions. - Page 9 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #241 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 12:00 AM
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Heater Heater,

Isaac - I read your reply but want to give it another shot to you.

1. I speak from the experience of 47,000 miles in my Mark IV, and probably 3-4 dozen drives in the rain, at least half a dozen of which were "the sky is falling" gushers. I don't intentionally head out in the rain unless I'm in the midst of a multi day journey (See patented "Tour de XX" adventures).
2. If you limit yourself to slam dunk warm sunny drives, you'll really be limiting your options, especially where you live. Warm days can turn into cool evenings on the way home.
3. Rain X in combination with a manual model T type wiper does the business with rain. No doubt Rain X and real wipers would be even better. You needn't be wary of starting a drive if there's a possibility of rain later on.

I'll leave you alone after this but just suggest you think twice while your in this phase of the build before opting out of the heater.

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post #242 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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I am going to be receiving my transmission from Mike Forte and am wondering if anyone in the Vancouver WA/Portland OR area has Coyote Lift Plates I can use in about 2-4 weeks? I have the chain and the lift as well as the bolts, but need the plates.


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post #243 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rick8928 View Post
Heater Heater,

Isaac - I read your reply but want to give it another shot to you.

1. I speak from the experience of 47,000 miles in my Mark IV, and probably 3-4 dozen drives in the rain, at least half a dozen of which were "the sky is falling" gushers. I don't intentionally head out in the rain unless I'm in the midst of a multi day journey (See patented "Tour de XX" adventures).
2. If you limit yourself to slam dunk warm sunny drives, you'll really be limiting your options, especially where you live. Warm days can turn into cool evenings on the way home.
3. Rain X in combination with a manual model T type wiper does the business with rain. No doubt Rain X and real wipers would be even better. You needn't be wary of starting a drive if there's a possibility of rain later on.

I'll leave you alone after this but just suggest you think twice while your in this phase of the build before opting out of the heater.
Agreed, I've been caught 3 times in the rain this year. Also living in California, warm days can turn to chilly nights quickly.

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post #244 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

To summarize the electrical and the additions/changes I am envisioning;

Ron Francis Chassis Harness
Coyote Control Pack
Coyote Pack Main Fuse
Main Power Disconnect
Heated Seats
Third Brake Light
Courtesy Lights under Dash
Courtesy Light in Trunk
Vintage Gauge Set
Add Oil Temp Gauge
Add Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge
F5 Ignition switch
F5 Headlight Switch
Trouble Light from Coyote Pack
12V lighter outlet
Russ Thompson Turn Signal
Color-Coded Pos and Neg Buss bars behind Dash
Under-dash starter interlock button (instead of Clutch Bottom)

Still on the fence regarding the Fuel Pressure Gauge. I have the wires already there (the existing EFI crank wires) if I happen to want them. They will be in the DS wiring bundle right beside the fuel rail should I decide to make that happen.

Gathering my thoughts before I get started in earnest. So far I ran the Rear Harness, Iíve temped in the Coyote Control Pack Harness, installed the Front Harness and mocked up the Main Harness briefly before removing it to spray the Lizard Skin.

Common sense tells me to start at one end and move through to the other. Starting at the battery I already ran the cable to the engine bay through the transmission tunnel, so first stop is the Main Battery Disconnect. I ordered a disconnect from Amazon, and get to installation. After center measurement I use a Step Bit to pop the holes through the sheet metal in between the transmission tunnel and the 2x2 crossbar. Measure twice, cut once. Never mind the paint pen marks, they will be covered by carpet. Some countersink machine screws and itís good to go.





A shot from the backside ...



Next I temp in the Main Fuse and check to see how Iím going to run those conductors. The Coyote Pack wants power all the time, so Iíll connect it to the same terminal as the feed from the battery. The ĎLoadí side of the disconnect will feed the starter and the Ron Francis Harness.







Having gotten that sorted out, I get in touch with my neighbor and have him make a mounting bracket for the main fuse, as itís just mocked up with a couple zip ties. Back to that later.

I go ahead and slide the Main wiring harness into place, but I donít put the mounting bolts through the fuse block plate yet. I want to see what Iím going to be dealing with. The two wiring harnesses are going to mate, but how and where is yet TBD. I start breaking into the two wiring harnesses to see what goes where and how best to route it.





The first thing I want to do is the simple stuff like remove the Hot Rod leg from itís current spot inside the Driverís Footbox. Time to break out the crimp tool and heat gun and start cutting some wires.



The upper wires with the long Molex connector on it is the Hot Rod Leg. FYI you will need to leave many of those wires long even if you cut them and get rid of the Hot Rod connector. Iím using the Russ Thompson Turn Signal and need them to be long so they can make it over to the other side of the steering wheel.

Next a couple of easy items; the Inertia Switch and the OBD plug. Iíll follow the example of builders before me and locate those over on the Passenger Side to avoid the congestion. I have to extend the wires in order to do so. Iíll also locate the GPS speedo receiver over there and run all those wires back that way in 1 piece of Wire Loom.



This part of the build is quite involved, with several working pieces; Main Harness, Dash Harness, Sender Harness, Tach wire, Turn Signal, Dash Gauges, Dash Install, Dash Covering, Ignition Switch, Headlight Switch..... complex and will take more than a few posts to get through. My patience will be tested.








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post #245 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Starting to put some components in place even if Iím not wiring them up quite yet....

I bought these round puck lights at the Auto Parts store to use for my courtesy lights, and a cigarette lighter receptacle so that I can plug a phone charger or something else in while on extended drives. Iíll use the courtesy light wire from the Headlight Switch to power these courtesy lights and the one in the trunk.



I plan on mounting these under the dash support braces that I bought from Mark at Breeze Automotive. Lots of great thoughtful accessories over there. In order to mount them, I have to mock up the dash and see what I think.



I spot where I think will be the best location for the dash braces will be.





I decide that for longevity, appearance and structural integrity I will bend the braces straight and mount them on the top of the 2x2 frame member, instead of the 90-degree bend that would put the bend on the cockpit side of the frame rail. Some silicone and rivets and we will have the supports in place.









After those are in place, I go ahead and round the rear hole out enough to get a Nutsert in the hole, and cinch in a 1/4-20 nutsert in each dash support. Clipping off the wire connectors from each lead, I measure and drill a small hole above each puck the that the wire leads will not be exposed, but they will be protected as they go through the metal hole.









In order to turn on all the lights at the same time, I run the red wires over to the courtesy light lead on the PS and the ground wires to the area where I will install the Ground Buss




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post #246 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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The cigarette lighter plug will go in the center support for convenience.






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post #247 of 311 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Exciting news, my shipment from Mike Forte arrived and the Tremec and associated parts are here!



Double-checking the manifest, everything is here, TKO500, QuickTime Bellhousing, splash plate, Starter, Clutch, Clutch Fork, Pivot bearing, and associated hardware.







Kind of ironic they call this a ĎMini-Starterí. Not much Mini about it.



Time to take the engine down off the engine stand and start assembling the drive train. I bit the bullet and went to Harbor Freight for a hoist and a load leveler. I also previously bought two lift chains with small bolt plates already on the ends. I went ahead and assembled the engine hoist, hung the load leveler on the hoist and threaded the chain through the load leveler and bolted the chain to the lift bolt holes. The pre-made small lift plates on the ends of the chain were just large enough to lift the engine while not damaging the valve covers or other parts of the engine.





The engine did want to lean heavily to the front due to the bolt hole location, my guess is that itís most likely designed to balance with the transmission mounted. I wanted to get it down onto a level surface to work on, and I managed to get it down on two pieces of 2x10 and 4x10 that I had laying around.



A dry fit of the bell housing will reveal any offset. Itís important to measure this and make any corrections if necessary. What I need to measure is any offset between centerline of the engine crankshaft (thus the flywheel) and the centerline of the transmission input shaft. Any offset greater that .005Ē can cause undue pressure and strain on the transmission input shaft bearing and this will cause stress and eventually failure of the bearing or other parts. I didnít have a Magnetic Base Dial Indicator, so another trip to Harbor Freight was in order. $35 including tax isnít bad. After some finagling I got a reliable measurement down and marked on the bellhousing .



Looks like the bell housing is off about .012Ē high and right. If you need instructions on how to measure this and decide on remediation, YouTube is a great resource.

This will call for removal of the existing zero-offset Dowel Pins and implementation of .007Ē offset dowel pins. Some quick calls to the local auto parts stores reveals only one can get offset dowel pins, and they will be about $20. I order those, and they will be in Monday. In the meantime I can remove the old ones.



A little searching for the best methods, and it seems the common success stories include applying heat to the engine block and using some penetrating oil on the Dowel Pin. I use my Heat Gun on the engine block after spraying some WD-40 on the Dowel pins and then use Vise Grips on the Pins. They come out relatively easily with some twisting and pulling action.





While Iím waiting till Monday, I can still work on mounting the Clutch on the flywheel. Not to mention the electrical, which I have a ways to go on.

I have to say, this build is teaching me patience.


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Last edited by IsaacW; 07-01-2019 at 07:03 AM.
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post #248 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 03:58 AM
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Hi Isaac,

your quote "In order to turn on all the lights at the same time, I run the red wires over to the courtesy light lead on the PS and the ground wires to the area where I will install the Ground Buss"

Unfortunately this will not work as the courtesy light switch that is built into the headlight switches to ground. Therefore you need to wire the negative of the courtesy lights to the courtesy light lead and connect the positives to a fused positive.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz
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post #249 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Isaac,



your quote "In order to turn on all the lights at the same time, I run the red wires over to the courtesy light lead on the PS and the ground wires to the area where I will install the Ground Buss"



Unfortunately this will not work as the courtesy light switch that is built into the headlight switches to ground. Therefore you need to wire the negative of the courtesy lights to the courtesy light lead and connect the positives to a fused positive.



Hope this makes sense.



Cheers, Nigel in South Oz


I follow. How unfortunate. I will re-evaluate. Thanks!


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post #250 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 08:28 AM
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No worries mate. I also meant to say that your build is coming along well. I am glad that you are taking the time to document the journey. I didn't through a combo of being time poor and feeling like it was already covered by others. That was a mistake. I don't have anything to show people who now take an interest in the car and how it was put together. it is something that is hard to visualise for someone that doesn't have a thorough interest in cars. I also get a lot of enjoyment out of watching people progress on this forum with their builds and I feel a bit guilty for not doing my part. Keep up the great work.

Cheers Nigel in South Oz

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post #251 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, appreciate that, Nigel. I find I have less time to type than time to build, and I fall behind in the documenting..... probably a common theme. I take many pictures, including one each day from the same spot in my garage. I hope to create a time-lapse sequence from beginning to end when Iím all through.


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post #252 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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I worked on making up Weather-packs today. So many good ideas on these forums!! Weather-packs are perfect for the front and rear lights as they create a quick-connect/disconnect for the body as you need to mount or dismount the body on and off the chassis. They will also provide weather and dust protection after final assembly and if you assemble them with the correct polarity, they can help prevent accidentally connecting the lights backwards.

Each corner has a set of two lights. The front corners have headlights with high and low beam and a dual filament running light. The rear corners have two dual filament lights each, and Iíve seen the most common setup is to use both for running lights in the dimmer luminosity, the upper on each side for brake lights on the brighter luminosity, and the lower used for the turn signal on their Ďbrightí illumination. This means you end up with four corners that each have two fixtures each and each of those fixtures needs 3 conductors. One ground, one bright and one dim. Sounds like 3-pin connectors should do the trick. Amazon is quite good for these connectors. I also ordered a Wiss crimp tool for these connectors.

I am also planning on adding a ground conductor landing at each corner, on the frame.

Getting started on the connectors.....







And the finished product for that corner ....



Iíll land all the ground when I have them done.... for now Iíll keep working on getting these finished up. That includes getting the connectors installed on the lights themselves, and in the case of the front lights, I can install the front body mounts which have the convenient light mount integrated.











Notice on the harness I installed one male and one female connector to tell myself which one to connect.



Rear harnesses made up. I also added a set of wires on the passenger side for a third brake light in the middle of the full width roll bar I am planning. I left them long just in case.




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post #253 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 12:18 PM
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I agree with you that Weatherpacks are easy to use and work great. You mention your crimp tool but don't picture it. I assume it's made specifically for Weatherpacks? Or that has crimp dies for them. Looking closely at your pictures of the terminals, it doesn't seem you're getting a good "roll" of the small fingers of the terminals into the stripped wire. Some Weatherpack crimp tools do both the wire and the seal at the same time. I actually prefer a more simple version that does each separately. That way I can confirm the wire (the most important part) is properly completed, rolled over, and tight. I typically do a little tug or pull test on the wire to make sure it's firmly held. Then crimp over the seal which doesn't need to be super tight. You're probably OK, but I'd recommend taking a look at your crimps and make sure they're solid. Also make sure you're using the proper pin for the wire size. The pins (and seals too) come in several different sizes. Those headlight wires, for example, would require the larger 12 gauge pin and appropriate sized crimp die.
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post #254 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 08:25 AM
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I wasn't satisfied that the crimp tool I used was doing a good job, so I wicked a little solder in the joint after crimping to guarantee a good connection. You just need to ensure that solder dosent flow into the connector section. I also purchased a pin releasing tool to fix the inevitable late night stuff up 🤨

Regards Nigel in South Oz
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post #255 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

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I agree with you that Weatherpacks are easy to use and work great. You mention your crimp tool but don't picture it. I assume it's made specifically for Weatherpacks? Or that has crimp dies for them. Looking closely at your pictures of the terminals, it doesn't seem you're getting a good "roll" of the small fingers of the terminals into the stripped wire. Some Weatherpack crimp tools do both the wire and the seal at the same time. I actually prefer a more simple version that does each separately. That way I can confirm the wire (the most important part) is properly completed, rolled over, and tight. I typically do a little tug or pull test on the wire to make sure it's firmly held. Then crimp over the seal which doesn't need to be super tight. You're probably OK, but I'd recommend taking a look at your crimps and make sure they're solid. Also make sure you're using the proper pin for the wire size. The pins (and seals too) come in several different sizes. Those headlight wires, for example, would require the larger 12 gauge pin and appropriate sized crimp die.


Just a couple quick pics of my crimp tool .... agreed making sure the connections are solid is a big deal.





I have been keeping a close eye on the crimps, and given each one the pull-test. The only ones that arenít rolling completely over are the #12 wires. I realize normally those are the ones to worry about, and they are only on the Headlight wires ..... Iím going to be using LED lamps, do you think the Amp draw is going to be something to worry about?


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post #256 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Before the engine goes in there are some things that will be a lot easier to do. One of those is install the heat -reflective adhesive-back mat that I planned for the Footbox panels on the engine bay side. I bought two pieces of 12x24 mat, one for each side of the engine bay where the headers will be close to the foot boxes. Time to apply these before itís too late.



Hereís the Passenger Footbox surfaces, and I want to apply the material along the inside face where the headers mount on the engine, and then across the end of the footbox where the headers turn together toward the outside of the car.



Post-application I can see a few bubbles in the material, evidence my work is not as smooth as I thought. Iíll have to pop a few bubbles and smooth them down.



The Drivers side Footbox will be a little more of a challenge .....



I decided to split the material along the seam to avoid awkward wrinkles around the front corner, but I miscalculated by about a quarter inch.



I will be ordering another piece of material to complete the wrap around the front of the DS Footbox and to cover the slit along the seam. Amazon will probably have it here in a day or two, plenty of time to get that done before the engine goes in.

The supervisor came out to check on my work ...... moving right along, Sir!! What a slave driver. So pushy.




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post #257 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 11:48 PM
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I have been keeping a close eye on the crimps, and given each one the pull-test. The only ones that aren’t rolling completely over are the #12 wires. I realize normally those are the ones to worry about, and they are only on the Headlight wires ..... I’m going to be using LED lamps, do you think the Amp draw is going to be something to worry about?
LED headlights certainly draw far less current than the kit supplied Halogen ones. Probably you're OK. But I still wonder if you're using the 12 gauge pins for those wires. My experience with the larger gauge wires and the matching pins (and seals) show similar rollover as the smaller gauges.
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post #258 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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LED headlights certainly draw far less current than the kit supplied Halogen ones. Probably you're OK. But I still wonder if you're using the 12 gauge pins for those wires. My experience with the larger gauge wires and the matching pins (and seals) show similar rollover as the smaller gauges.


No, I donít currently have the #12 pins in there. Looks like Iíll be ordering a pin remover and some #12 pins to get that right. I think the pins currently in there are only good to 14.


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post #259 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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The electrical is nearing completion, and with a few fixes and tidying up, I will be finishing that up this weekend with the exception of the dash gauges. I ordered the number 12 replacement pins for the Weather Packs and a Weather Pack Pin removal tool for replacing the pins at the Headlight connections and am taking care of that.

The # 12 wires were not grabbing all the way, so using the #12 pins I remade those connections.



After removal of the smaller pins and installation of the #12-#10 pins, the fit clearly folds over and makes a firm connection.



I remade all the # 12 connections at the Headlight harnesses. Nice and solid now.

After carefully making sure that most of my connections were made and all bare ends of cables were protected against shorting against the frame or other metal parts, I connected the battery so I could check functionality of the electrical, such as it is. I wanted to make sure everything is working ok before closing up and taping/strapping all the wire loom behind the dash.

Moments of truth .....does the electrician understand car wiring diagrams ........?

For this first step I made sure my Main Disconnect was off and the key out, as well as the ignition key in the off position and the Headlight Switch in the off position. Connected the battery ...... No sparks or smoking wires, thatís a plus! Next, I turn on the main battery disconnect and things seem to be ok. However, my courtesy lights are on all the time .....



After a little circuit tracing and thinking that through, I determined I had wired the courtesy lights correctly, with a small snag. I had already fed a constant hot to the red wire on the lights, and then connected the courtesy light wire to the black wire. This was supposed to complete the circuit when the Headlight Switch is turned to the courtesy light position. The snag happened when the lights themselves have a metal body that is connected to their internal ground and when I secured them to the dash supports I ensured they were permanently grounded. This they would be on 100% of the time. To eliminate that I installed a rubber spacer to eliminate the contact between the light and the dash support, and a fiber washer between the securing machine screw and the light body. This isolated the light from being grounded by the mounting hardware. Now the lights switch on and off with the courtesy light function on the Headlight Switch.



Next, with my Weather Packs all made up, I mock up the tail lights and front running lights in order to check operation. Click the Headlight Switch to halfway ..... and the lights come on.



My first foray into powering up the car under my belt, I disconnected the red wire and went back to work finishing up electrical.

Next up, trunk light. As electricians that do residential remodel work we do our share of kitchen remodels. Under-cabinet lights have really been heading the direction of LED strip light in the last 5 years, and we have installed enough to have several scraps laying around at the shop. One just happens to be the perfect length for the trunk, and a plus; they are natively 12V. I clean off the bottom of the trunk frame rail, peel off the back and apply the strip light to the rail.





Now to wire in the light to the courtesy light circuit..... electricians usually take the easiest path. In this case I already have an unusable Ďcircuití going from the dash to the transmission tunnel... the speed sensor wires. It should be reasonably easy to extend those wires to the trunk area and connect them to the new trunk lights. I go ahead and crimp some wire on and take a path right by the battery cable and then alongside the fuel tank vent tube until I popped right through the side by the roll bar footing.





The LED strip lights have end connectors with a premade lead on them, so they crimp right onto the leads I extended to them. On the other end I connect them to the courtesy light hit and switched ground from the Headlight Switch. Testing confirms operation.



More Electrical details to follow.




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post #260 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 11:53 AM
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Those 12 gauge crimps look much better. Congrats on passing the smoke test. It's fun bringing it all to life.
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post #261 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Those 12 gauge crimps look much better. Congrats on passing the smoke test. It's fun bringing it all to life.


I get such a big grin on my face when I get big steps finished up ......


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post #262 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Electrical details being one thing, mechanical assembly has its own appeal. Time to take a break from wiring to prep the drive train for installation.

Getting the correct Offset Dowel Pins turned out to be a big fiasco and took about a week. After ordering and receiving the Lakewood pins number 15950 we discovered that they have a 1/2Ē diameter and the Coyote dowel pinsí diameter is a larger 5/8Ē inch. After looking at different parts, we took a shot in the dark and ordered the Lakewood 15920, which have a 5/8Ē diameter but are supposed to be for a GM vehicle. They end up working just fine.

I decided to hold off on mounting the clutch on the flywheel so that I could re-measure the offset once I had the offset dowel pins in. Duh? Adjusting the dowel pins to correct the bellhousingís offset turned out to be an exercise in patience and frustration as well as a very touchy process, but I got it dialed in and marked the bellhousing and the dowel pins at the correct rotation.

After getting that dialed in, I installed the dust shield, slid the flywheel back on, and torqued the flywheel nuts to 80 lb-ft in a star pattern. The clutch disc installation tool supplied with the clutch holds the disc in center while sliding the pressure plate into place on the flywheel pins and tightening the clutch-to-flywheel bolts in to 36 lb-ft in a star pattern . Then the disc installation tool comes out before sliding the bellhousing on.





Before final installation of the bellhousing I install the pivot stud and the clutch fork. I am not sure how far the pivot stud wants to be tightened in, but Iím going to guess that itís most of the way toward bottoming out. If I need to readjust I can do so later.

The Clutch kit included most of the mounting hardware that is necessary, but the mounting bolts for the bellhousing itself were the wrong size. I took a trip to the hardware store and picked up some grade 8 cap screws with Locknuts to substitute. I tightened that to spec and now, itís ready for the transmission!





Before tranny install, though, I want to get the starter installed. It will be easier to install it without the tranny bumping into my left side and smearing gasket grease all over me. Three bolts anchor it into the bellhousing. However, the dust shield is the part that the starter seats into, and I find that the two set of holes donít quite line up. I end up having to loosen the bellhousing bolts enough to knock the dust shield over to where the holes line up. I tighten those back in, and the starter tightens in just fine. I figure the same 35 lb-ft should do just fine.





I donít have a Transmission Jack, but my new floor jack should be able to do the trick if I balance the Transmission right. The transmission is a heavy item, and if I have learned anything in my years in construction, itís that you have to be smart in how you manage heavy items. Often you donít have to work as hard as you think. I scoot the transmission box over to the end of the engine/bellhousing and open the box. Itís a tough box, and holds the tranny on it while I move the floor jack next to it. Then I shift the transmission over to the jack for raising it up.



It rests with a slight cant on the jack pad and we raise it toward its final destination. You can see we used a towel to cushion the edges on the jack pad.




Once we get it at about the right height, we roll it toward the bellhousing and get it moving into the hole. A little maneuvering for height, and we get the tranny almost all the way in. Judging by feel, the only thing keeping us from getting in all the way is the teeth of the input shaft not quite lining up with the teeth on the inside of the clutch disc. A big No-No would be trying to pull the tranny in with the bolt heads.... turning the tranny on the input shaft is the correct way. We turned it slightly and it slides right into place once the teeth mate up. We go ahead and tighten the mounting bolts in to the specified 45 (well, 46) lb-ft and our tranny mounting is complete!!



There seems to be a small indentation in the top of one of those covers, I donít think itís a big deal.... any opinions?



Big check mark on the list! Almost ready to go in ..... just a couple small things left.






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Last edited by IsaacW; 07-19-2019 at 06:46 AM.
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post #263 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
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...Before final installation of the bellhousing I install the pivot stud and the clutch fork. I am not sure how far the pivot stud wants to be tightened in, but I’m going to guess that it’s most of the way toward bottoming out. If I need to readjust I can do so later...
Actually you can't. You need to get it adjusted properly now. Once everything is together, there isn't any way to reach in there and adjust it. Stop now and get it right, in case it's not. Basically you want the clutch arm perpendicular to the driveshaft line, or slight behind, with the throwout bearing against the clutch fingers. Adjust if necessary. The picture below is with the hydraulic setup, so ignore that. Just note the clutch arm position.

That dent in the cover shouldn't be a problem. The shift rails are under there, and some distance below the cover. Looks like this inside: http://enthusiastnetwork.s3.amazonaw...-gear-rods.jpg.

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post #264 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

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Actually you can't. You need to get it adjusted properly now. Once everything is together, there isn't any way to reach in there and adjust it. Stop now and get it right, in case it's not. Basically you want the clutch arm perpendicular to the driveshaft line, or slight behind, with the throwout bearing against the clutch fingers. Adjust if necessary. The picture below is with the hydraulic setup, so ignore that. Just note the clutch arm position.

That dent in the cover shouldn't be a problem. The shift rails are under there, and some distance below the cover. Looks like this inside: http://enthusiastnetwork.s3.amazonaw...-gear-rods.jpg.



Copy that, will do, on the clutch fork. Not too difficult at this point.

Good to get confirmation on the cover. For a second I misunderstood, thinking you were saying it was going to be a problem.

Iíll work on the clutch fork tonight and get that adjusted. The pivot ball is slightly ahead of perpendicular. I might have an issue getting it behind, but I get the gist of what youíre saying and will get as close as possible.


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post #265 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Removed the tranny and made sure the pivot ball was seated as far back as it would go. The clutch is basically perpendicular to the input shaft. Reinstalled the tranny and we are good to go. Made sure to torque the mounting bolts equally at 46 foot-pounds after applying blue Loctite. Checked the shifting action, the shifter arm cycles nicely through all gears.


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post #266 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

I believe the last step I need to finish before engine install is the rear transmission mount. I had ordered the Energy Suspension 4.1104G, so I proceeded with Mounting. Or so I thought. Number one, I didnít have the Mounting Bolts, the Mount itself only comes with the bolts and locknuts that install upwards into the bottom of the mount from under the A-frame transmission bracket. The necessary bolts are a 1/2-13 bolt and I chose 1-1/4Ē for length. These are the bolts that mate into the transmission. I say that because thereís more. An adaptor bracket installs first onto the tranny, and this offsets the Energy Suspension Mount rearward to mate onto the A-bracket. So I need a second set of bolts with washer and locknut to install the tranny mount onto the adaptor plate. I opt for 1/2-13 flange bolts, with a Nylon Locknut and flat washer.

The base kit does not come with the adaptor bracket, so I asked my friend with the milling machine make a bracket of 1/4Ē plate steel. Even better, he covered it with a coating called Steel-It which is gray in color and contains particles of stainless.

Hereís a picture of the hardware.



All the hardware in hand, I go ahead and install the bracket. Hereís the tranny before mounting. No instructions for torque on these, I tighten them to 80 foot-pounds.



I apply some Blue Loctite and install the bolts to mount the bracket to the transmission.





Next I insert the mount bolts and couple the two pieces of the mount together with the adaptor bracket. Again I tighten these to 80.








With that complete, I believe she is ready to go in! Time to prep the engine compartment.

Iíve read the steering column interferes with the installation, so I disengage the column from the PS rack and wrap it with a cloth before securing it off to the side. I zip-tie the fuel line and the wiring harness legs that will connect to the engine off to the side as well, to keep them out of the way. Next I apply some tape to the surfaces I think may be nicked or scraped as the engine or transmission make their way into the car.




I also taped the inside and top of the transmission tunnel to avoid any accidental dings in there.



After measuring the engine hoist and under-car clearance, I find the car does not have adequate clearance to allow the lift to slide under the car. So I raise the front wheels up onto a couple of pieces of 4x10 that I have laying around. I want the car sloping downward at the front, so I also raise the rear wheels up a ways and insert jack stands. Next time this car touches the ground there will be an engine inside, and she will have gained 500 pounds.





Yes, Eagles. Wentz. Enough Said.

I also have a few items staged under the car waiting for the engine to get close enough to position. I have the two exhaust headers placed behind each front tire so that when the time comes, the headers will be right there. I have the header bolts and locknuts staged as well as gasket material. I think this will make it easier to judge the best install position quickly and then perform the installation efficiently. The creeper is waiting under the car in case it is easier to work from below. I have a few guys scheduled to come over and give me a hand making sure this baby goes in nice and easy.

A quick mock-up of the header with the engine in free air. Good looking, but I guess I expected Ďpolished stainlessí to be a little shinier.



I am excited for install day, this has been a while in coming.




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Last edited by IsaacW; 07-21-2019 at 07:05 AM.
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post #267 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 12:14 PM
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Looking good! You may want to remove the shifter (6 bolts) from the top of the tranny before dropping that in. It has sealant so can be a little stubborn to remove. But makes the installation much easier and not hard to replace once in. You may want to turn it around to the front location anyway. BTW, don't sweat about the header appearance. They are nearly invisible once everything is done. Regardless, those look nice. Also, that adapter plate is included in the Coyote installation kit, which apparently you didn't buy? Has nothing to do with base or complete kit.
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post #268 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 01:54 PM
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Those headers aren't polished. If they were you wouldn't see the heat from welding. Where did they come from? The big collector is unique but flow will hit a bit of an abrupt obstruction when it hits the 4 hole sidepipe flange.

Jeff

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post #269 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Those headers aren't polished. If they were you wouldn't see the heat from welding. Where did they come from? The big collector is unique but flow will hit a bit of an abrupt obstruction when it hits the 4 hole sidepipe flange.



Jeff


Got those from Factory 5, their Polished Stainless Headers. Maybe they were polished stainless before the welding .....


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post #270 of 311 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

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Looking good! You may want to remove the shifter (6 bolts) from the top of the tranny before dropping that in. It has sealant so can be a little stubborn to remove. But makes the installation much easier and not hard to replace once in. You may want to turn it around to the front location anyway. BTW, don't sweat about the header appearance. They are nearly invisible once everything is done. Regardless, those look nice. Also, that adapter plate is included in the Coyote installation kit, which apparently you didn't buy? Has nothing to do with base or complete kit.


I suspected the Coyote Installation Kit would have the bracket, but not in my case for some reason. I even looked through the list of parts included in the kit and it didnít have it listed in the Coyote Installation Parts at all in my shipping manifest, not even as a back order.

Thanks for the tip on the shifter, Iíll do that before we get started. I also noted this morning as I looked at your pictures that you swung the triple reservoir aside that in order to get the engine head down past it, and Iíll loosen that up and do that as well.

I pulled the rubber donut off the output shaft and much to my surprise, some transmission fluid came flowing right out. I was under the impression that they were shipped dry..... I slipped the donut partially back into place to stop any more from coming out in the install process. Hopefully that does not cause an issue. Iíll have to make sure there is not enough in there to leak out the shifter.




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