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post #211 of 231 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Ok, so having achieved Roller Status (ok, 99%) we need to put it back up on the jack stands. Time to button up the brake lines.

The only remaining portion of the front brakes is the mounting tabs and the flex lines. And of course, brake fluid and line bleeding.

The mounting tabs that come with the kit donít fit the flex line adaptors. For that matter, they donít fit the flex adaptors that come with the base kit either. Time for a trip to the Auto Parts Store. Thereís a local store here in Vancouver that seems to have a lot more of the parts lines that I seem to be looking for. In this case, they bring in a set of Russell mounting tabs and matching clips that will do the trick. This particular tab set doesnít have rivet holes, so we pop a couple holes in. Lining them up, squirting some silicone in between and popping rivets in takes us just a few minutes.





Then we install and tighten up the flex lines and check what orientation will work the best for the caliper fitting. Pointed up? Down? One test is worth a thousand expert opinions.

Hereís the fitting pointed down, not too much interference. Just a little bit at a sharp left turn.







And the fitting pointed up.



Clearly the fitting pointed down is the way to go. Pointing it up would rub on the tire the whole time the car is moving and probably end with the line being worn through by the tire. We get the fittings installed on both sides and the lines tightened up.





All right, flex lines tightened up to all four corners, time to put some brake fluid in and bleed the air out.








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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #212 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Shifting gears here for a minute. Received the Ron Francis Wiring Harness kit yesterday, and had to thrown the Rear and Front harnesses in. The rear harness is the only thing keeping me from completing the trunk and cockpit sheet metal.



The harnesses in the kit are very clearly marked and leave almost no room for error. Not only are the ends of the loom bundles marked, but the individual conductors are marked as well.





We loosely installed the rear harness and secured it with some Zip-Ties ... then tightened it up. If the final installation includes insulated bushings, the installation manual only has pictures of those in the front. Iím interested in getting feedback on how I routed the front and rear, as now would be the time to change these.

Ran the Rear Harness down the transmission tunnel and took the ĎYí all the way to the Rear per instructions. There is slack enough that if I decide to do so in the future, I can do the drop trunk mod after the fact. The only concern is the license plate wire... it seems short and I canít see how to stretch it. Not a big deal to extend it, I know how to do that. I just want it to be done right the first time and if it doesnít fit quite right, Iíve learned itís usually because I am not doing it right.



Got it to the back...



Tightened it up ....







You can see in this picture there is only a foot or so of slack past centerline on the arched crossmember .... this doesnít seem to be enough to reach to a low rear license plate location. Maybe I should read ahead to the body finishing part of the manual...




Ran the Front Harness along its path. If only it was about 6Ē longer in that first stretch ......









Seems to come up a little short, could be my routing.... but seems to make the most sense. On the Front Harness Iíll be using Insulated clips on the part that runs along the frame, as the pictures in the manual show.

Thoughts?


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #213 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 01:35 AM
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Just a hint FWIW -- You may want to mock up the main harness behind the dash and see where your front and rear harness connectors end up. Looks to me like you have more harness length than you need for the front and rear harness legs at the dash area, which translates to less than might be possible at the four corners. Especially for the rear harness. Might also explain why you think the license plate wire is too short. I haven't found that to be the case. You really don't want more than necessary behind the dash anyway. It gets pretty congested in there, and dealing with extra cable makes it worse.

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post #214 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Just a hint FWIW -- You may want to mock up the main harness behind the dash and see where your front and rear harness connectors end up. Looks to me like you have more harness length than you need for the front and rear harness legs at the dash area, which translates to less than might be possible at the four corners. Especially for the rear harness. Might also explain why you think the license plate wire is too short. I haven't found that to be the case. You really don't want more than necessary behind the dash anyway. It gets pretty congested in there, and dealing with extra cable makes it worse.


Copy that.... I brought my KO punch home with me today to knock those holes in the firewall. Will Do.

Related to that, whatís the best method to support the big loom bundle as is traverses the steering shaft? Not a whole lot of vertical space in between the shaft at the bottom and the firewall edge above it and Iíd like a permanent way to ensure the wire loom doesnít sag and contact the shaft.


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2015 Mustang IRS
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post #215 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 10:45 AM
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Related to that, what’s the best method to support the big loom bundle as is traverses the steering shaft? Not a whole lot of vertical space in between the shaft at the bottom and the firewall edge above it and I’d like a permanent way to ensure the wire loom doesn’t sag and contact the shaft.
Nothing special in my experience. I use a padded clamp to support the main leg on the RH side of the steering column. High enough that it lifts and holds the harness above without interference. With it held in place you can curve it some out of the fuse panel and it's fine. FWIW, I prefer padded clamps for the entire harness installation. Front leg, back leg, etc. As opposed to tie wraps.

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post #216 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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To see how The harnesses will interface, I mocked up the Main Harness with the Fuse Block. There was an interference fit between the fuse block mount and the fuse block itself, which had a pretty simple fix, just had to be addressed before it would fit. The two relay blocks on the end of the fuse block were shifted so that they would interfere with the mounting plate.



This was not allowing the mounting plate to mate anywhere close to how it was supposed to, as the side of one relay block was not allowing the plate to move by it. It is also obvious that the relay block needed to move over. It only attached to the fuse block by two screws, so I easily moved the block over a hair and aligned it with the space in the plate where it is supposed to sit. I made sure that I moved the screws only in the relay block, and kept the original placement in the fuse block so as not to run into any internal conductive parts in the fuse block.





After making sure the fuse block lined up, I removed the fuse block plate that came with the base kit, and installed the Ron Francis plate.





Taking a page from edwardbís book, I made an extra bracket for the fuse block mounting plate to support the previously unsupported corner. Convenient to have the base kit plate to cut this piece out of. I bent it into shape with my Hand Seamer, because, well, I donít have a Sheet Metal Brake.







Next I lay the Main Harness in there and see how it mates up with the front and rear harnesses.





I see that I can make a small adjustment to the Front Harness, making it forward a couple inches. To lay the Rear Harness in place, I will have to drill the holes in the Firewall.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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LED Lights
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post #217 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
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...To lay the Rear Harness in place, I will have to drill the holes in the Firewall.
Don't take the rear harness through the firewall. That's the long way around. Pretty normal practice to take it through the top corner of the inner drivers side footbox panel under the dash 2-inch tube. There's a small cutout there, but will need to be enlarged a bit. You can see it in this picture. Just to the left of the hanging ignition switch.

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post #218 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Don't take the rear harness through the firewall. That's the long way around. Pretty normal practice to take it through the top corner of the inner drivers side footbox panel under the dash 2-inch tube. There's a small cutout there, but will need to be enlarged a bit. You can see it in this picture. Just to the left of the hanging ignition switch.





It would look at lot cleaner and straighter that way... Iíll take a look tonight after work. No interference with Coyote Fuse box on the other side? I donít have that in hand yet.


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post #219 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

No teacher like experience. I always take good advice into account, and edwardbís advice has been spot on. Much appreciated.

After adjusting the dash end of the Rear Harness toward the steering column, we pop a hole through and test fit the connection to the dash harness. Looks like we have a winner. (I will say, there was not a starter hole there. I just picked a spot)





Looks like that will more evenly distribute the wiring and harnesses behind the dash.



Thereís lots of work to do there, no fooling myself on that one. That will be a task. Even though I am an electrician doesnít mean I do car electrical. Thank God I can read a wiring diagram. I guess Iíll leave the gloating until after the first start when the car doesnít blow up.

I took the time to adjust the back of the rear harness toward the right side of the car before installing straps and tidying things up before sheet metal install.



Something I noticed that didnít look right was the location of the connector for the tranny sender. I pulled up a picture from edwardbís 20th anniversary install and sure enough, it looked a lot further back than his did with tranny in place. I relocated the leg forward about 12Ē and put some 3/8Ē wire loom over the wires, it looks a lot better now.







While we are on the topic of electrical, I mocked up the battery location. Iím probably going to catch some heat for this, but Iím going with the original location in the trunk. I just donít like the awkwardness of the battery under the coolant reservoir, and it shifts the center-of-mass by about 50 lbs. In theory.

I slid in the trunk deck sheet and marked the locations for drilling. After sliding the Aluminum back out, we popped a couple holes through the marked location, and drilled the positive battery side out to the grommet size. On the ground attachment location, we took the wire wheel to the frame and got down to bare metal on BOTH sides of the attachment point. NEC Code requires that good contact with bare metal is made on both sides, and the more Amps you take through a connection the more important that is. (Weíre not dealing with the NEC here, but Itís my trade, what can I say)









After snapping the wire loom over the red battery cable, I secured it in a parallel path beside the rear wiring harness and clamped it on its way to the front. Having a considerable amount of extra and not having the main cutoff in place, I just looped it up, tucked it right by the driverís side footbox and tied a bag over the end just in case it made accidental contact with the frame at any point. I also did not keep the battery connections both made up at the same time, I donít need any accidents happening.




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Vancouver, WA

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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #220 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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While we have the car on the ground, we take the time to tighten up a couple things that we have been waiting to do, the axle nuts, front and back, and the driveshaft adaptor.

The axle nuts we had torqued to 100 ft-lbs, front and back, prior to setting it down. I donít think we could have safely gotten them much tighter up on the stands. Now that we have the wheels on the ground and have an e-brake to assist, time to tighten them up.

The fronts I tightened to 175, then 250, alternating sides at each step. The rears I followed the guideline of 98 (ok, 100), then 45 degrees. Basically the same as the fronts, and the torque wrench clicked just before the 45 mark, still at the 250 setting from the fronts.





That done, the driveshaft adaptor goes into place. The required bolts get a dab of Red Loctite and torqued to 42 ft-lbs. the manual says 41, but again, my torque wrench only has even value detents.









Once done, we marked them with the paint pen.



We also received the Coolant Temp Sender with the Vintage gauge set and having previously installed the threaded adaptors in the Coyote engine, we slip the Sender into place and tighten it up.



In the spirit of taking care of business and tidying up loose ends, Differential Fluid is next.




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Vancouver, WA

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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #221 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

The normal Auto Parts stores donít have the 75W-85 gear oil that the Differential calls for, so another trip to Tonyís Auto Parts. That place is getting to know me by name..... picked up the Friction Modifier as well.

I already had a fluid hand pump for this task, so with all the materials in hand we raised the car up on the jack stands, with the front higher than the rear to assist draining. After removal of the plugs, I let the fluid drain for a couple hours while I ran some errands.







Pumping the gear oil and friction modifier into the Differential is a two-hand task not conducive to taking pictures. Suffice it to say after reinstalling the lower drain plug I pumped three pints of gear oil and three ounces of friction modifier into the Differential. Interesting that the drain plugs both have magnets on the back end that sit in the gear oil and collect little iron pieces out of the oil. At first it just looked like the plug just had a weird molded back to it (perhaps for manufacturing efficiency), and it took me a minute to realize what it was and clean them off.





Some Blue Loctite on the plugs, pop the upper one back in when done, and another task checked off the list.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 05-07-2019 at 02:18 PM.
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post #222 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Hereís an annoying little repetitive drip that I am having to deal with. The Lower ball joints on both sides of the front have a persistent little drip out of the grease fitting, right into the channel on the inside of the wheel. Every few days I am getting 1-2 drops from alternating sides. Iím not sure why, and it sure will get more difficult to clean these up after the body is on. Anyone else had to deal with this?




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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #223 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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So, with the wiring harnesses run to the rear of the chassis and the battery connections cut through and mocked up, nothing stands in the way of installing the trunk sheet metal and the cockpit sheet metal. So, may as well get moving on it.

One last little piece, the front end of the Passenger Side fuel tank mounting strap does not line up well, the strap needs a little persuasion to align straight with the chassis mount, and if the bolt were a little longer, it would be a lot easier to get the strap installed. Quick trip to the hardware store at lunch, longer bolt in hand, and voila!



Iím leaving that a little loose so the bolt on the other end will be easier to deal with in a minute.

Starting with the lower trunk metal, silicone and rivets will lock it in. This piece gets some interference from the PS fuel tank mounting strap (read, the strap bolt has to be removed in order for the sheet metal to slide in) so I stick the jack under the fuel tank, remove the rear bolt, apply the silicone and delicately place the metal back in place. Rivets are fun!! I tell myself.

Following the lower sheet metal, I silicone the upper trunk deck and maneuver that piece into place. Those two pieces tie for the pain-in-the-butt factor for install of sheet metal pieces. The two side pieces for the trunk go in relatively easily after that.



Yes, I did install the front-most row of rivets on the trunk deck before installing the cockpit metal. It is odd that the manual tells you to install the cockpit pieces after it the cockpit metal. I donít think itís intentional.

After mocking up the cockpit pieces for one last time, I take them loose and install the drivers side floor piece and side.



Then starting the rear cockpit wall, the transmission tunnel rear piece and side pieces go in.







I can see I may get a hard time about my silicone method, but Iíll share it anyway. I call it the ĎWhite Measlesí.



Rear cockpit wall goes in, and just about finishes it up.







The transmission runner cover is going to stay off until the engine and tranny is in place, as I canít even pretend to know where finalized locations are.




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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #224 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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After getting the majority of the sheet metal in place, I started buttoning up the small touch-up pieces like the fuel tank access covers in the trunk and Footbox Front pieces.

Starting at the rear, drill, cleco, drill the rest, silicone, rivet, repeat.





Fuel tank strap patch piece.





Moving forward, the firewall patch.



Over to the driverís side, the Footbox front filler plate, inside or out? I went outside.





Patched the hole in the transmission tunnel, I know itís not the round patch.... but it works and Iím not taking it off now.






Finally decided to make up the seam in between the DS Footbox and the tunnel end piece, I just had clecos holding it together till this point. It is also time to connect the DS Footbox piece and the Firewall, and I have to firm up that lower part before the firewall. I also clecod the upper Footbox pieces into place in order to gauge where to rivet the footbox and the firewall together. Iíve had the Footbox clecod together for so long it almost feels weird to finally button it up.





I am having a local company that we are doing work for make up a couple inside wall trunk pieces, and those are the last pieces to go in before Lizard Skin .... to the task of masking for now.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #225 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

In order to mask off the sheet metal in preparation for the Lizard skin, I remove the things I donít want to spray, starting with the Main wiring harness that I had temped in place. I removed the steering wheel which I had sitting loosely in place.

I also raised the car up on the jack stands for this part, itís going to be easier to do this part with a few inches less bend-over action. My back isnít as young as it used to be.

Starting with the hard part ..... taping off the front, dash pieces and all. I decided to leave a little overlap from the edge of the sheet metal onto the frame rail for continuity... maybe 1/8Ē at most.





In the middle of masking I recalled the firewall brace I had read about. Now to fab one .... where could I get a piece of metal to make a brace with that already has a 90 ...... the old Base Kit Footbox Front! Fabbed one by measuring and cutting a piece and installed with silicone and rivets.







On with the masking. Taping is tedious, time consuming and doesnít do my body any favors. By comparison the covering of the gross areas that need to be covered by plastic is easy.









Rather than patch all the corner holes with epoxy, I duck under the car and stick tape to the back sides of the holes ..... I figure the Lizard Skin will fill the holes on its own.



Reading that the spray does not really atomize, but shoot onto the surface, I reason that shielding the Wilwood Footbox and Steering column by wrapping them with paper. I also cover the trans tunnel and e-brake hole with paper.



I removed the pedal pads and wrap the pedals with Saran Wrap. Easy enough to remove after spraying is done.



Masking is complete, time to clean and prep the metal.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 05-15-2019 at 06:52 AM.
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post #226 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thinking ahead to the point after the Lizard Skin is complete, I know I will be starting on the wiring portion of the work. As of right now I only have the Ron Francis Wiring Harness. I will need the Coyote Control Pack and the Gauge set. I place my orders for those items, and within a week they are projected to land on my doorstep.

Also got the notification that my replacement radiator is on its way from Factory Five.

The Ron Francis Harness comes with a fabulous schematic, but does the Coyote Control pack also have such a detailed drawing? Iím sure there will be some dieting out of unnecessary items, like the Hot Rod leg of the Main Harness. Iíd like to know what Iím doing with the two harnesses, as there is likely to be some overlap.


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Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #227 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 11:11 AM
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These are the instructions that come with the Ford Performance Coyote controls pack. Not a schematic quite like the RF manual. But enough diagrams and pin-out details to get the job done. https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-504V.pdf

One hint regarding your Lizard Skin application. Since you're in close proximity to other stuff in your garage, I'd recommend throwing some drop cloths over that stuff as well. I've found the overspray (if you can call it that...) goes further than you might expect.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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post #228 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Iíll take that advice. In addition to having a layer of paper on the floor, I will also have my assistant builder (daughter) holding a spray shield in place behind the spray area to catch any Ďover-sprayí.


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post #229 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Last-minute details, I also ordered heated seat inserts from Cobraheat.com... received those. Call me too firmly entrenched in the Electrical trade, but running the heated seat wires across the sheet metal under the Lizard Skin feels too much like running household Romex across the floor under the carpet of a house. Huge Code Violation! We would get lectured by the inspector and mocked by coworkers and associates. I can never justify running Romex across a floor...... and it feels too much like that. So what Iíll end up doing is routing the heated seat wires out the back of the firewall with the harnesses that are already exiting and then picking a strategic spot to break out with a small loom to route down along the 4Ē tube members in the transmission tunnel and then pop up under the seats themselves. Not that this is any better, just too hung up on the electrical trade practices. Iíll mock that part up, drill the holes and install some simple loom in the holes under the seats before I spray the Lizard Skin so that will be locked in there as well. Work and pictures to follow tonight.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #230 of 231 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
Last-minute details, I also ordered heated seat inserts from Cobraheat.com... received those. Call me too firmly entrenched in the Electrical trade, but running the heated seat wires across the sheet metal under the Lizard Skin feels too much like running household Romex across the floor under the carpet of a house. Huge Code Violation! We would get lectured by the inspector and mocked by coworkers and associates. I can never justify running Romex across a floor...... and it feels too much like that. So what Iíll end up doing is routing the heated seat wires out the back of the firewall with the harnesses that are already exiting and then picking a strategic spot to break out with a small loom to route down along the 4Ē tube members in the transmission tunnel and then pop up under the seats themselves. Not that this is any better, just too hung up on the electrical trade practices. Iíll mock that part up, drill the holes and install some simple loom in the holes under the seats before I spray the Lizard Skin so that will be locked in there as well. Work and pictures to follow tonight.
Punch through and hang them out in the open if you like. Many do. But buried in the corners of the cockpit, under the Lizard Skin or not, and under the carpet, isn't remotely vulnerable. I would suggest more protected than having them outside in the tunnel. They're also low voltage DC unlike your high voltage AC example. (BTW, pull up the carpet and insulation on your average DD and you'll find wires under there as well. Again, low voltage DC.)

Then on the top of the carpet, wherever you run the wires, under the seats to the connectors.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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post #231 of 231 (permalink) Old Today, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like I have finally run up against the infamous Photobucket upgrade notice. Iíll have to figure out another way to post photos.

Have the first layer of Lizard Skin Sonic on the car, will get some photos up later. Now back to it to get the second layer on.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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