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post #121 of 295 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Actually no, you did not need to. Your steering shaft will already be configured to mate up with the 3/4" 36 spline shaft on the Fox (or Fox derived) power rack. An adapter is required to couple the steering shaft to the 9/16" manual rack or the pyramid shaft used on SN95 racks.

Jeff


My PS rack did not come from F5, It has the pyramid shaft. The spline adaptor did not work... I tried. Hopefully I can sell the spline adaptor eventually.....


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post #122 of 295 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 11:22 PM
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My PS rack did not come from F5, It has the pyramid shaft. The spline adaptor did not work... I tried. Hopefully I can sell the spline adaptor eventually.....


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Oh, so it's a SN95 rack. What year? I ask because some are wide and will need to have the tie rods cut even if you don't install the FFR extenders.

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post #123 of 295 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, so it's a SN95 rack. What year? I ask because some are wide and will need to have the tie rods cut even if you don't install the FFR extenders.



Jeff


It didnít say what year, just 1994-2004. Can I tell by the width?


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post #124 of 295 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 11:50 AM
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Not sure, and in the end it won't matter since after you install the rack extenders you'll need to cut the inner tie rods anyway. Just curious why you chose a SN95 rack vs Fox.

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post #125 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Not sure, and in the end it won't matter since after you install the rack extenders you'll need to cut the inner tie rods anyway. Just curious why you chose a SN95 rack vs Fox.



Jeff


No reason, and if itís a mistake, it was out of ignorance. I didnít have any logic behind it, I think I just looked up Power Steering racks and made an economic choice.


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post #126 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Well I have come to the conclusion that many probably have come to by now; the 2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack brake calipers interfere with the rims. The caliper housings stick out too far and run into the back of the rim spokes. Thereís plenty of room inside the rim, but the spokes run into the calipers to the extent that you can barely get the wheel onto the studs before the spokes start banging into the calipers. You can see in the pictures that the spokes donít offset too far forward from the hub mating surface, but the calipers stick out quite a ways.

So, I called up Gordon Levy and ordered a Wilwood brake package for all four corners. Thatíll take 1-2 weeks to get here, but thereís plenty of other tasks to take care of. And itís a complete package including separate rear parking brake caliper that will look really good when itís done.

If I donít make mistakes, I wonít learn, right?

Time to start in on that sheet metal....












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post #127 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Received my new Cleco set in the mail today, so started in on the sheet metal. In reading other forums I have picked up that not putting anything together permanently or silicon-ing any of the aluminum pieces together is a little less mistake-prone. You can see if things are going to fit together right from the beginning instead of finding out the last panel wonít fit. Especially when you are at the last panel.

Canít take credit here, this path was well worn long before we got here.

The passenger footbox seems like a good place to start that wonít interfere with too much, plus the manual has you start there. I wonít permanently put too much together until I get the Brakes (including e-brake), Pedal Box, and fuel system in. Got to get those systems nailed down before I cover them up.














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post #128 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 01:35 PM
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I am putting the heat and sound barrier sheets on my car. I was wondering why I did not put it on the foot box panels before I riveted them in. It is not impossible after assembly, but much easier before. Hope this helps.
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post #129 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

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I am putting the heat and sound barrier sheets on my car. I was wondering why I did not put it on the foot box panels before I riveted them in. It is not impossible after assembly, but much easier before. Hope this helps.


Good to know... I assume youíre talking inside the footbox?

Thanks, railroad.


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post #130 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

After temporarily fitting the sheet metal for the passenger side footbox, I noticed some adjustments that needed to be made. Some may say that 3/16ths of an inch is not a big deal, but I do see it as a big deal. I had used the original mounting hole for one of the sheet metal bit-tip screws where it mounts to the underside of the main firewall crossbar as my starting point, and as you see in my pictures, it turns out that caused the top piece to be slightly rotated and the corner did not line up. Odds are this would not really make a difference in the end product, but it would cause the footbox to be slightly closer to the Engine, and who knows what other interference it would cause. I pulled the Clecos out and had to refit the two top pieces and the outside piece, but in the end I am satisfied this will fit together close to perfectly now.

Next comes silicone and rivets.












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post #131 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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With Personal events taking some time out of this weekend and next weekend, the work will slow down(but not stop) for the next couple weekends. I do still want to get some answers to earlier questions. How about these;

Cupholders; best practice? Iíve seen some in the top of transmission tunnel? Can you link some posts or threads that detail this?

Full width Roll Bar; I will have passengers for much of my driving and Iím not a fan of the double-hoop look. Can you steer me in directions for buying or getting one fabbed?






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post #132 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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OR>>>>

Rather than an unnecessary dash gauge and separate regulator you can set up like lots of other Coyote powered roadsters and simply use this:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ls9904



Plumb it in at the rear, send the return back to the tank and run the regulated supply line to the front. If diagnostics are necessary screw a gauge onto the Schrader at the rails. Easy peasy!



Jeff


Jeff; did end up buying that setup from Breeze as part of their fuel package. It will be simpler, I agree.


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post #133 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-02-2019, 08:23 PM
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Full width Roll Bar; I will have passengers for much of my driving and Iím not a fan of the double-hoop look. Can you steer me in directions for buying or getting one fabbed?






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Replied to your other thread.

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post #134 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Front Spindles supposed to arrive tomorrow, Breeze fuel pak supposed to arrive Friday. Brakes in about 10 days. Good thing I have other things going, or Iíd be getting impatient...

I am considering what Alignment tool to buy, and the front runner seems to be the Quick Trick Pro. It measures Caster, Camber and Toe, and the horizontal crossbar seems sturdier than a multi-piece assembly for Toe measurements. The only thing that seems to be a drawback is the way the level attaches to the vertical crossbar; it seems there is a lot of variance possible with such a small mounting foot.

Thoughts?


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post #135 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 11:52 AM
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Front Spindles supposed to arrive tomorrow, Breeze fuel pak supposed to arrive Friday. Brakes in about 10 days. Good thing I have other things going, or Iíd be getting impatient...

I am considering what Alignment tool to buy, and the front runner seems to be the Quick Trick Pro. It measures Caster, Camber and Toe, and the horizontal crossbar seems sturdier than a multi-piece assembly for Toe measurements. The only thing that seems to be a drawback is the way the level attaches to the vertical crossbar; it seems there is a lot of variance possible with such a small mounting foot.

Thoughts?
There are a ton of options for DIY alignment and what tools to use. On these forums anyway, this tool from SPC is probably the most common: https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...tion&pid=91010. I used one for several years and they work OK. Recently upgraded to a Longacre 52-78298 digital caster/camber gauge. Very nice piece. Just used it for the first time on my Coupe build. I've found toe plates work the best for setting toe. Available from several mfg's. I had the toe adapter kit for the Fastrax and returned it. Wasn't accurate or repeatable in my experience. The other challenge I've found with DIY alignments is turning the front wheels for setting caster. I used a couple layers of trash bags for several builds. Turns with no friction easy enough. But it's not very precise for setting the turn in and turn out angles. I just added QuickTrick turn plates to my alignment tool collection and that was also a big upgrade. I feel very confident about the settings I'm able to do. One hint though. Your garage shop floor needs to be reasonably flat. Digital gauges, like the Longacre I'm using now, allow you to calibrate to a non-level floor. But I suspect there's a limit to that.
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post #136 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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I suspect the toe adaptors that you returned were subject to the flex that I think they would be subject to, making them inaccurate. This is why I was looking at the Quick Trick Pro... it has one rigid crossbar going across the bottom, inflexible. Would you see that solving this issue?


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post #137 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

I also foresee a challenge with the front suspension with the Camber-Caster-Toe adjustments interacting with the steering rack, and then the Breeze PS adaptors?? Makes my head spin right now, but Iím sure there is a simple 1-2-3 process on which one to do first. A little help here?

The car is on the jack stands currently...


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post #138 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 05:10 PM
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I suspect the toe adaptors that you returned were subject to the flex that I think they would be subject to, making them inaccurate. This is why I was looking at the Quick Trick Pro... it has one rigid crossbar going across the bottom, inflexible. Would you see that solving this issue?
Yes the toe adapters flexed (a lot...) and took me about two minutes to decide they weren't acceptable. The toe plates I'm using now (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-ta-003) work great. I'm not familiar with the Quick Trick Pro so can't offer any opinion.

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I also foresee a challenge with the front suspension with the Camber-Caster-Toe adjustments interacting with the steering rack, and then the Breeze PS adaptors?? Makes my head spin right now, but I’m sure there is a simple 1-2-3 process on which one to do first. A little help here?

The car is on the jack stands currently...
The camber/caster/toe adjustments all interact to some degree. So you just keep going round and round until they all are in spec. Steering rack, adapters, etc. don't enter into it directly. Just to confirm, alignment is done on the ground with the ride height set. Not on jackstands with the suspension hanging.

Don't forget, with the IRS build, you also have to align the rear suspension. Only toe and camber. No caster. The same tools are used.

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post #139 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Dumb question ..... how do you set the ride height?


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post #140 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 10:21 PM
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Dumb question ..... how do you set the ride height?
By adjusting the spring collars on the coilovers. When you install the coilovers, adjust the collars so the springs are just held tight with the suspension hanging. The spring should be captured but not compressed. Then, once you have basically everything on the chassis and sitting on the ground with the suspension compressed, measure the distance from the chassis rails to the floor. Turn the collars exactly the same number of turns for the front pair and the rear pair to get to the desired height. Initially, little over 4-inches in the back and just under 4-inches in the front is a good starting point. It will settle some during the first few hundred miles.
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post #141 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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By adjusting the spring collars on the coilovers. When you install the coilovers, adjust the collars so the springs are just held tight with the suspension hanging. The spring should be captured but not compressed. Then, once you have basically everything on the chassis and sitting on the ground with the suspension compressed, measure the distance from the chassis rails to the floor. Turn the collars exactly the same number of turns for the front pair and the rear pair to get to the desired height. Initially, little over 4-inches in the back and just under 4-inches in the front is a good starting point. It will settle some during the first few hundred miles.


Perfect. Thanks for the guidance!


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post #142 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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Edwardb, two questions. Do you have the F5 instructions for the front spindles? They are not online and I think torque values are important. :-) And what is the model number of the Moog tie rod ends you used for the Power Steering rack? Thanks.


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post #143 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 11:21 AM
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Edwardb, two questions. Do you have the F5 instructions for the front spindles? They are not online and I think torque values are important. :-) And what is the model number of the Moog tie rod ends you used for the Power Steering rack? Thanks.
Sounds like maybe you have the base kit manual vs. the complete kit manual? Because the FF 2-piece spindle installation is covered in the complete kit version. From the manual:

The spindles are marked DSS (Driver Side Spindle) and PSS (Passenger Side Spindle). These refer to the way they are mounted on the FFR Hot Rod which is rear steer. The FFR Coupe uses these as Front steer so they are mounted opposite, The DSS spindle is mounted on the right side and the PSS spindle is mounted on the left side.

Lower ball joint: Place the spacer under the castle nut to ensure that the cotter pin is at the correct height. Torque to 106-149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install the cotter pin.

Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin.

Bolt the steering arms to the spindles so the tie rod end will mount from the bottom (the taper on the hole will open out toward the bottom) and the kink in the arm angles the arm outward toward the rotor. Torque to 60 ftlbs.

For the tie rod ends, I use Moog ES2150RL and 9.13101G Energy Suspension dust boots. Note these are not unique to power steering and the change is optional. I just like these parts better. The kit supplied tie rod ends work and are for either manual or power steering.
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post #144 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like maybe you have the base kit manual vs. the complete kit manual? Because the FF 2-piece spindle installation is covered in the complete kit version. From the manual:

The spindles are marked DSS (Driver Side Spindle) and PSS (Passenger Side Spindle). These refer to the way they are mounted on the FFR Hot Rod which is rear steer. The FFR Coupe uses these as Front steer so they are mounted opposite, The DSS spindle is mounted on the right side and the PSS spindle is mounted on the left side.

Lower ball joint: Place the spacer under the castle nut to ensure that the cotter pin is at the correct height. Torque to 106-149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install the cotter pin.

Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin.

Bolt the steering arms to the spindles so the tie rod end will mount from the bottom (the taper on the hole will open out toward the bottom) and the kink in the arm angles the arm outward toward the rotor. Torque to 60 ftlbs.

For the tie rod ends, I use Moog ES2150RL and 9.13101G Energy Suspension dust boots. Note these are not unique to power steering and the change is optional. I just like these parts better. The kit supplied tie rod ends work and are for either manual or power steering.


Thank you, that helps a ton. Yes, I have the base manual.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #145 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 05:41 AM Thread Starter
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I love receiving new packages, and this is no exception. Front Spindles and hubs with the mounting package, radiator, and steering rack adaptor arrived today. So Iíll start with the Front spindles.
But before that is the Passenger Side lower Ball Joint castle nut. One of them was deformed from F5 (one of the teeth was turned slightly inward), and when it would start to spin onto the ball joint thread, it would start cutting into the bolt. If I were to continue tightening, this could cause a lot of issues. So I go in search of replacements. After I found a smaller (and not acceptable) replacement at one hardware store, I went to Fastenal, a fastener supply house very close to work, and ordered a replacement, which came the next day. After verifying it is an exact replacement, I brought it home to Ďdry-fití it, and itís perfect.






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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #146 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

And thereís the Factory 5 Spindles. I see immediately there is some prep work to do with the parts.
First thing I can see right off is the front hubs. They have the ABS Sensor rings installed on them, which I donít need and will interfere with the second item, applying POR-15.
How to get the rings off...... well, the first method that comes to mind is using a pulley puller tool. I used a piece of metal across the hub bearing pieces, and applied the tool, and, voila! The rings come right off. Youíd better not want to use them again, because they become bent in the process.
Thank God no replacement of wheel studs is needed for the front.
I use the POR-15 Cleaner/Degreaser to clean the surface I am going to paint, and even though I probably should, I skip the Metal Prep step for such a small metal part.
Application of POR-15 coating is straightforward...... more work later.
















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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #147 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Thanks to Edwardbís advice and instructions, Iíve ordered the Moog tie rod ends on Prime, so Friday delivery. For now I can cinch down the spindles.
The lower ball joint Castle nuts go on just fine, and I cinch them to around 104 ft/lbs.... and turn them just enough to get the pin hole to line up in between the teeth. In order to hold the spindle while I turn the wrench I have to use a backup wrench on the spindle, and I use a large flat-jaw Monkey Wrench with a cloth on it to avoid scratching the spindle as the backup wrench. Install Cotter pins ... and good.
The Upper ball joint Castle Nuts prove to be more challenging. Not only do they have a really awkward wrench angle, but they easily advance past the point that the cotter pin can mate up with the teeth. Iíll take a page out or Edwardbís book, and grab a couple washers at the hardware store.
The steering arm bolts go right together, although I almost didnít read the related installation instructions closely enough and almost had them pointed the wrong way. That was a close one! Wasnít the first time, may not be the last. Have it in correctly now, with the taper opening downward.
Mocked up the hub, Iím not going to install that but permanently until I get the Upper ball joint done, and maybe the tire temp-mounted. I think it will be easier that way.


















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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 03-07-2019 at 01:42 PM.
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post #148 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

It didnít take me very long to change out the Steering Rack Adaptor for the correct one, and get the steering column in place. I had to remove the DS mounting bolt for the PS rack in order to drop the rack slightly and finagle the lower shaft into place. Understanding that the steering column will need to be disconnected again in order to get the Coyote engine in means that instead of cinching it down, I leave the nut on the bolt in the adaptor finger-tight, and the hex-screws in the column just making contact.

I donít put the steering wheel on because I have been informed that my daughter will be mad if I do that part without her, even if she has homework to do. I can hold off on that.

Iím almost to the point where Iím going to have to pull out the Breeze instructions for the PS rack.








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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #149 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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These bolts came with the Spindle kit ..... any clue what they are? There are four of them, seemingly two for each side.




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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #150 of 295 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Also, I have this leftover hardware from the IRS bags .... Iím not missing anything, Iím pretty sure they are extras ..... hopefully Iím not wrong.






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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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