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post #91 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
What pedal box are planning to use? Don't see that mentioned anywhere. Just so you know, that footbox front is for a Mustang donor pedal box. Meaning a second hole by the steering column for the master cylinder, plus the inner location of the clutch quadrant. If you're planning to use a Wilwood pedal box, there's a different footbox front for that and probably doesn't come with a base kit.

Two suggestions: You'll probably need to put a couple washers under that upper pillow block. Guys are finding that setup (it's relatively new) causes the steering shaft to interfere with the frame. Looks like yours does or is really close. And while you're at it, turn the bearing around so the set screws are on the back. That's per the manual.

Hopefully you also installed the two Belleville spring washers when assembling the upper and lower steering shaft. Guys often miss that, and then find there's play between the upper and lower shaft.

You're making good progress.


I see your point on the Pillow block, Iíll see about rounding up a couple washers and get some elevation on that shaft away from the cross-member. Iíll also check out the spring washers you mention. It does mentioning not cinching anything up on the steering until everything is dialed in on the steering rack, and leaving it loose until engine install sounds smart as well.

I have the Donor pedal box, thatís what I was planning on using.

On the Pillow block, I do have the set screws toward the rear of the car, which I thought was according to the manual ... Was this what you were referring to?




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post #92 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
I have the Donor pedal box, thatís what I was planning on using.
If by that you mean from the 2015 you're going to find that the chassis is not designed to use it.

Jeff


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post #93 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 09:07 PM
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On the Pillow block, I do have the set screws toward the rear of the car, which I thought was according to the manual ... Was this what you were referring to?
Oops, my bad. Sorry about that. It's a lazy Sunday plus I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn for a long time. My brain was remembering doing that installation with the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly. In that case, you do put the set screws on the other side. Toward the front. In reality, it doesn't make a lot of difference. Just so you can reach them however your car is optioned.

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post #94 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Oops, my bad. Sorry about that. It's a lazy Sunday plus I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn for a long time. My brain was remembering doing that installation with the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly. In that case, you do put the set screws on the other side. Toward the front. In reality, it doesn't make a lot of difference. Just so you can reach them however your car is optioned.


Had a question on the turn signal/wheel. Am I making the correct assumption that a Russ Thompson Turn Signal setup is not compatible with a quick-disconnect wheel setup? Not trying to make any decisions but just info for me to store.


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post #95 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
If by that you mean from the 2015 you're going to find that the chassis is not designed to use it.



Jeff


Good to know. Thanks.


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post #96 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 01:35 AM
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Had a question on the turn signal/wheel. Am I making the correct assumption that a Russ Thompson Turn Signal setup is not compatible with a quick-disconnect wheel setup? Not trying to make any decisions but just info for me to store.
I don't know. Your best bet IMO would be to contact Russ. He's a super nice guy, very helpful, and I'm sure he's been asked this question before. His email is on his website and he's always been good to answer anything I've asked him.

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post #97 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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Picked up 4 washers this afternoon and installed the in between the pillow block and the block mount. They spaced the steering column up about 1/8th of an inch. Thanks for the suggestion, Edward. Wouldnít want the steering column binding up or have some noisy or damaging grinding on the frame crossmember.








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post #98 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Well, Iím running into a serious fitment issue in the accelerator pedal, and add to that, interference with the steering column.
To start, I mounted the Coyote accelerator pedal mount as the manual prescribes, and it went in just fine. And I trimmed the pedal as the manual prescribes. However, when I go to slide the pedal into place, the pedal body contacts one of the frame members before it can slide down the final 1/8Ē of the way, and the frame member that parallels the steering column keeps the top mounting hole from lining up with the top mount hole. It needs to move about 3/8Ē over toward the PS, but it contacts the frame member before it can get over there. Iím at a loss as to how to solve this while not removing frame members and maintaining the integrity of the pedal mechanism.

On top of that, when I insert the steering column, the mounting ear of the accelerator pedal interferes with the steering column. It almost contacts the mounting adaptor. Judging by how it lines up with the mounting adaptor, I donít think I can cut enough of of the ear of the accelerator and still maintain my confidence in the accelerator ear.

So, in short, there are 3 issues. The frame member toward the rear of the car interferes with the pedal moving down the last 1/8Ē. The Frame member to the Passenger Side interferes with the pedal moving to the right far enough to line up with the upper mounting hole. And the steering column interferes with the pedal mounting ear.
What a cluster .......

The last picture is from the exact view of the steering column end, you can see how the mounting ear interferes with the steering column. Should I move the pedal mount upward by drilling new holes slightly higher? Or am I asking for trouble? I am assuming that the pre-drilled holes are best.

I could be drastically overthinking this.



























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post #99 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 11:16 AM
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Nice looking bracket they're providing now. Nothing like that was available when I was doing mine. But obviously not too great if you can't get it to fit. It's hard to be very specific with any recommendations though. I've had to massage both of my Coyote accelerator pedal installations quite a bit to make them fit. Observations though: You can take more material off the back of the module assembly than you did. As long as you don't go any deeper than the flat part. Those webs can be removed more. Maybe not everywhere, but in the area where it's contacting frame members. I did that on my Roadster to get it over far enough. You can also take a little more material off that mounting ear. Don't compromise the strength by removing any material between the mounting hole and the case. But the outline on the other side of the mount could be cut down more and maybe eliminate some interference. Finally, if you do need to move some holes in that bracket and/or trim it down a bit, won't be the first (or last) time that's necessary in your build.

These are pictures of my installation on my Roadster build. I understand it's different because I don't have that bracket. But maybe it helps a little.






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post #100 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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I think tonight Iíll try to see if moving the mounting bracket up by about 1/2Ē and drilling new mounting holes will resolve the issue. I just donít want to have that cause a domino effect with other foot box items or a drive ability issue with the finished product. (I.e. gas pedal too high)


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post #101 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Received shipment of parts .... time to get to work!




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post #102 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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I relocated the accelerator pedal mount about a half-inch higher, and that seemed to resolve the issues. However, the pedal still is butted right up against the frame member directly on the PS of the pedal, and in order to make the back of the pedal seat firmly against the mount, I had to shim the right side of the mount out from the back of the foot box a hair. I used a leftover pin from a rivet, but I may want something a little more permanent for the long-term.

Photobucket is being a pain in the butt right now, so I canít upload all the pictures.








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post #103 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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After receipt of the hubs I got right to work on knocking the wheel studs out with a 2 lb sledge and hitting them with POR15 on the exposed areas..... following in the footsteps of the greats before me. The directions say 2 thin coats, and these 2 coats are a little closer together than Iíd like; 2 hours, but I think itíll be ok. I want to get working on the IRS tomorrow morning and not have to wait for another coat to dry.













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post #104 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Installing the Wheel Studs proves to be a challenge, and here is one spot where I believe I actually have something to contribute. The instructions to Ďdraw the studs into the holes using a washer and a nutí prove to be worthless as the stud nut starts to bite into the tapered shaft of the wheel stud before it even starts to cinch the stud into the hub. Other senior builders have used a deep well socket in a vise to hold the stud and brace the hub, which is good, but even a long bolt with the threads filed off will damage the side of the hub as you pound on the back of the studs. So I went looking for a smooth-sided tool to help me pound these in while picking up another grease tube. So this is my solution. Itís a Clevis Pin, similar to a hitch pin for a trailer hitch, but straight. It costs about $4.78, and is ready to use right out of the package. I do end up using the socket with a couple washers to back the hub, and it worked very well as a thick punch tool. I think It will only last for one set of 4 wheel hubs, though. It deformed past being able to use it for its original purpose.










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LED Lights

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post #105 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

We completed the IRS installation today, and man is it sweet.
We already had the Control Arm and Toe Arm-to-body bolts torqued in and the hubs mocked up in place, so we took the hubs loose and unboxed the Half-shafts. They are beefy and come wrapped in plastic with the Axle Nut threaded onto the end of the Axle. To set the Axle we lined up the times by inserting and turning until it slides in, and then as it neared full insertion we could feel the shaft click into place. However, both sides required a few firm taps with the rubber mallet in order to get them seated. They should be about 1/8Ē from the flares shaft edge to the Differential housing, and they went in hand-tight at about 3/8Ē out. Nothing a little hammer love couldnít solve.
The knuckle with mounted hub went on smoothly and thanks to my work with the spreader tool, the Control Arm Mounts came together just fine, the bolts slid through with a few mallet taps, and we hand-tightened the nuts. All three bolts in place, we torqued them to spec. Marking them with the paint pen will indicate any future prospective loosening of the nuts, although that will be unlikely.
All in all, smooth installation of the rear of the IRS parts.





























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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #106 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Man am I itching to get those wheels on. I couldnít help myself, I slid the brake discs on and put the wheels in place with a couple hand-tight lug nuts. Those tires sure are meaty. Iím loving everything about this car so far.

Cleaned out the work area a bit too, you can see in the last photo.












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Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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LED Lights
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post #107 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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So here come some of my questions. I will separate them by item so itís easier to reply.

First on my mind is my next purchase planned from Breeze. Iím looking at the fuel tank EzePak (for naturally aspirated) and the fuel regulator assembly. Any suggestions/commentary, perhaps on fuel pump sizing?

Also, has anyone ever installed (or is it legal) a fuel pressure gauge on the dash? Might be handy for early problem detection.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #108 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Next question on Exhaust Headers. I see on F5ís site that they now offer Stainless 4-into-4 header similar to the ones I admire on cars like edwardbís, and Iím wondering what the opinion is on quality, look, and cost. I think they are $925 currently. My concerns are either not losing, but gaining HP and maintaining a great look and finish. Iíll probably end up with Chrome or Stainless as a finished look, leaning towards Chrome.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #109 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 08:29 PM
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My take on your questions:

- Per the Factory Five instructions, the Coyote engine requires a 255 lph pump. The Ford Performance instructions say 155 lph minimum at 55psi. So right away it's a little confusing. Mark at Breeze recommends a 190 lph pump and that's probably a good choice if you're going to stay with the stock engine setup, e.g. no power adders. This was a big discussion when I was doing my Mk4 a couple years ago, and I did end up going with a 255 lph pump. But that discussion also led me to go full 3/8-inch supply and return including full 3/8-inch lines on the pump hangar. Probably much more than needed, but it's worked well for me. Duplicated the same setup on my Coupe build. But I wouldn't recommend going that way unless you upgrade the lines and hangar.

- I would not recommend messing with a fuel pressure gauge on the dash. Aside from the added complexity and potential safety concerns of routing a live fuel line behind the dash, it's just not necessary. If you use a fixed regulator, like a lot of Gen 2 builds are doing, it's not actionable anyway. If you use a variable regulator (e.g. Aeromotive) my experience is that once it's set you won't touch it again. For safety reasons I've removed my under hood gauge, which is often recommended once it's set and confirmed.

- I can't cite any personal experience with the Factory Five Coyote straight tube SS headers. They weren't available when I did my Roadster, so have the GP Headers ones. They're very nice quality, but I can't say they're any better than the Factory Five ones. Just don't know. I doubt the power difference, if any, is anything to talk about. Another source for headers is Gas-N Performance. Their Coyote headers are also very nice. They are offered in polished stainless if you want. I wouldn't get too concerned about appearance though. In the Roadster with the Coyote, the headers are barely visible. For sure you don't want them chrome plated. Expensive and will discolor very quickly.
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post #110 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Iím sure some of my ideas seem like they come out of left field; I read and ask a lot of questions, itís how I learn. I feel the only dumb questions are the ones that donít get asked.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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post #111 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Perhaps the most important question of all: Cupholders!! Are there some good options? I assume that I should be planning for them at this point in the build.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #112 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 12:46 AM
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I have a gen1 Coyote. In the engine manual it stipulated in several sections that fuel pressure was critical. I installed an electronic fuel gauge from Speedhut to match my existing gauges. I installed the supplied pressure transducer into the fuel pressure regulator. All very easy. I had a avionics technician friend check the gauge/transducer before installing. It was spot on. Can't say I look at it often, usually just a quick glance on startup when car has sat for a while. Transducer is solid brass, don't envisage any leaks. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz.
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post #113 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigel Allen View Post
I have a gen1 Coyote. In the engine manual it stipulated in several sections that fuel pressure was critical. I installed an electronic fuel gauge from Speedhut to match my existing gauges. I installed the supplied pressure transducer into the fuel pressure regulator. All very easy. I had a avionics technician friend check the gauge/transducer before installing. It was spot on. Can't say I look at it often, usually just a quick glance on startup when car has sat for a while. Transducer is solid brass, don't envisage any leaks. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz.
That's a great idea.... do you recall the part number (s)?

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Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #114 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 05:05 AM
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That's a great idea.... do you recall the part number (s)?
Speedhut part number is: GL-FUEL-01 - 2-1/16" Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100psi

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I also fitted an oil temperature gauge to 'balance' the layout of the gauges. However, I do think you can have too many gauges and I was a bit sensory overloaded when I first started driving. I probably could have deleted the clock, but I must admit that it comes in handy (if you even so much as touch your phone just to check the time, even when stationary at the lights, our law enforcement will take ~$450 out of your wallet.
The main reason for fitting the gauge was to quickly diagnose if fuel is a problem in the event of an engine issue. Back when I started my build in 2012, there were probably only a handful of Coyote engines in Australia, therefore no support. Thankfully mine has been trouble free.

I am enjoying following your build, good luck with it.

Cheers,

Nigel in South Oz.
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post #115 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:33 AM
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I forgot to mention that I agree with Edwardb, that once set, the regulator should be good for many years. Therefore the gauge is more useful at indicating a pump or fuel flow issue. I installed a vacuum line to the regulator. With engine off, fuel pump running, pressure is 55psi, as required. At engine idle, fuel pressure is around 48psi. Get on the accelerator and fuel pressure returns to 55.
Not completely sure if I should have set up manifold vacuum compensation or not. Hopefully someone with Gen 1 Coyote experience can set me right.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz
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post #116 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 12:15 PM
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OR>>>>
Rather than an unnecessary dash gauge and separate regulator you can set up like lots of other Coyote powered roadsters and simply use this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ls9904

Plumb it in at the rear, send the return back to the tank and run the regulated supply line to the front. If diagnostics are necessary screw a gauge onto the Schrader at the rails. Easy peasy!

Jeff
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post #117 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigel Allen View Post
I forgot to mention that I agree with Edwardb, that once set, the regulator should be good for many years. Therefore the gauge is more useful at indicating a pump or fuel flow issue. I installed a vacuum line to the regulator. With engine off, fuel pump running, pressure is 55psi, as required. At engine idle, fuel pressure is around 48psi. Get on the accelerator and fuel pressure returns to 55.
Not completely sure if I should have set up manifold vacuum compensation or not. Hopefully someone with Gen 1 Coyote experience can set me right.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz


Thanks, Nigel. As an American citizen born in Melbourne, appreciate the input.

Agree, itís more of a trouble indicator data point, just like engine temp. Really only there to steer you in a certain direction if there is an issue.


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Isaac Wilson
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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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post #118 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
OR>>>>

Rather than an unnecessary dash gauge and separate regulator you can set up like lots of other Coyote powered roadsters and simply use this:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ls9904



Plumb it in at the rear, send the return back to the tank and run the regulated supply line to the front. If diagnostics are necessary screw a gauge onto the Schrader at the rails. Easy peasy!



Jeff


I can see how that would be very simple. Thanks for the input, Jeff.


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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #119 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Following recommendations from Senior Members, I placed an order for F5 front Spindles. Contrary to what their website says, they were in stock, and will ship today. I also had to order the Power Steering rack adaptor for the steering shaft and the aluminum radiator. Looking forward to receiving those and getting the car to ĎRollerí status.

Also ordered a Fuel Kit and a few other items from Breeze, and a Cleco set from Amazon. I see lots of sheet metal work in my future. Iíll also be looking to pick up some basic alignment tools once I get all 4 wheels on.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster #
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
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2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #120 of 231 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 05:11 PM
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...I also had to order the Power Steering rack adaptor for the steering shaft...
Actually no, you did not need to. Your steering shaft will already be configured to mate up with the 3/4" 36 spline shaft on the Fox (or Fox derived) power rack. An adapter is required to couple the steering shaft to the 9/16" manual rack or the pyramid shaft used on SN95 racks.

Jeff

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