2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions. - Page 3 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 27Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #61 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 03:25 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: South Lyon, MI
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
Matthew, did the Gear ratio impact your choice of transmission? Iím still in the decision phase with the tranny.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I actually had picked my transmission first, knowing that I wanted to go with a six speed with a tall overdrive. I wanted to have a relatively low cruising engine speed. I then used a spreadsheet to analyze my vehicle speed vs engine speed with the transmission ratios for each of the available standard ratios for the differential. Even with the 3.73 ratio, I was happy with the engine speed. The torsen differentials only come from the factory with the 3.73 option so that was another motivator to stick with the 3.73.

IsaacW thanked this.
matthewb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 09:45 PM
Junior member
 
paul2stl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 98
Send a message via Yahoo to paul2stl
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
A T-56 will fit in your application with the Coyote (a bit shorter than other engine choices) and IRS. That being said, it does require some mods and likely a custom driveshaft. Many have done it. The T-56 does shift better than the TKO, although I find the TKO shifts OK and so do many others. The T-56 also has two overdrives, so there's that. The solenoid lockout it has for reverse is nice too. The T-56 will require you to use a QuickTime bell housing. There aren't any OE style aluminum bells like for the TKO if that's what your planning. So bottom line the T-56 is more expensive to buy and has some added expense. You'll just have to decide if it's worth it to you.

I'm not one that's said 50% of TKO's leak. Others have said that, and maybe it's true. I don't know. I've had two and neither leaked.
I am using the T-56 with a Coyote and have a OE style aluminum bell housing. Also I had a drive shaft made to fit the T-56/15 IRS from Mitchells Differential out of MA. They build FFR drive shafts. It was a total of $405 shipped to the west coast.

IsaacW thanked this.

MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Completed 2/18/2019. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Hallibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Mach 1 front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Lexus Spectra Blue Mica w/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic
paul2stl is offline  
post #63 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Received some of the back-ordered items including the Front Lower Control Arms almost ready to start on suspension. Rear hubs on order from Tasca are holding me up from really getting the IRS started, and Iím now Iím in a front spindle quandary. I hear it on good authority that I should use the F5 front spindles. However, they are out of stock and I already received the SN95 spindles I ordered to use in the front....... are there easy decisions in this build? In this pic you can see the newer Mustang hubs and spindles from the 2015 are a little beefier than the 1999 version.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 02-14-2019 at 07:00 AM.
IsaacW is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #64 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Had a little time today to install the heater bypass kit, which bridges the coolant hoses that normally supply hot liquid to the heater core to transfer heat energy from the engine to the passenger cabin. With no passenger cabin per se there is no need for a heater, and I choose as most do to install the hose bypass. Clicking the two hose end fittings onto the tube ends on the Driverís Side Outlet and the Passenger Side Inlet is fairly easy, although a firm touch is required to seat them. There is a small metal sleeve that serves as a fixed produce inside the tube that slides in before you cut the hose to length and install two hose clamps. I think I read that this is supposed to ensure a limited flow rate and proper engine cooling.














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #65 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Following the paint Cure I get to start installing body panels, starting with the ĎF-panelsí near the front control arms. These must go on because the control arms, once mounted, make it very difficult to install these two panels ....

First hold the panels in place with the Ďoriginalí screws, use the rivet tool to mark and drill the rivet holes, apply silicone to the frame rails, then carefully maneuver the panels into place and start on the rivets. The sheet metal work will probably be the least exciting to me in this whole project.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #66 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 11:00 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,676
Quote:
Originally Posted by paul2stl View Post
I am using the T-56 with a Coyote and have a OE style aluminum bell housing...
Right. An aluminum bell used to be available for the Coyote/T-56 combination. Might be some out there still. But my understanding is they're no longer being made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
and Iím now Iím in a front spindle quandary. I hear it on good authority that I should use the F5 front spindles. However, they are out of stock and I already received the SN95 spindles I ordered to use in the front....... are there easy decisions in this build?
Wait for the FF spindles. It's worth it. If it were possible for you to drive a car with each you wouldn't find this a hard decision.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
First hold the panels in place with the Ďoriginalí screws, use the rivet tool to mark and drill the rivet holes, apply silicone to the frame rails, then carefully maneuver the panels into place and start on the rivets.
Just a hint. The locations that FF uses for attaching the panels are usually close. But I wouldn't use them as gospel. They are, after all, mainly there for shipping purposes. For standalone pieces like the F-panels, probably OK. But when you get into the more complicated assemblies, use the shipping holes as a starting point. But check the fit of all the pieces before committing. Also another hint, you maybe want to back off a bit on the silicone. It's an important part of the bond. But that much squeeze out and subsequent clean up (which I hope you're doing) isn't fun. Especially as you get further along into more complex assemblies.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #67 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 12:46 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,372
Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
...now Iím in a front spindle quandary. I hear it on good authority that I should use the F5 front spindles. However, they are out of stock and I already received the SN95 spindles I ordered to use in the front....... are there easy decisions in this build? In this pic you can see the newer Mustang hubs and spindles from the 2015 are a little beefier than the 1999 version.
It's not about "beef" it's about geometry. And by the way, 1999 spindles are the absolute worst choice of all options---they stick the front wheels out farther than either Fox spindles, '94/'95 model year SN95s or the FFR units. This additional track width often causes tire to body conflict. Additionally, post 1995 SN95 spindles use a straight steering arm that results in less than ideal bump steer characteristics.

You have plenty of other work to do while you wait for the FFR spindles to become available...but it's your choice.

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is online now  
post #68 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
It's not about "beef" it's about geometry.



Jeff

Was only making an observation on the sturdy look of the 2015 equipment I removed from the Donor.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate all the experiential wisdom I am receiving.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #69 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Edward, I have noticed both those issues you mention already, just 4 panels into it. Probably my 25 yrs of construction experience showing, but even without connecting panel to panel yet, I can foresee possible fitment issues, and I see why you use the clecos and advise others to do so.
I do have quite a bit of experience with different types of silicone, and I am confident in my cleanup abilities. What I am fear is body rattle caused by gaps in the silicone, and Iíd rather clean up a little bit extra than deal with annoying and embarrassing body rattle that I canít solve once the build is complete.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #70 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Jeff and Edward; appreciate how you both give your reasoning behind the advice that you give. Understanding the Ďwhyí is big for me. Thank you both.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #71 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 03:46 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,676
Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
I do have quite a bit of experience with different types of silicone, and I am confident in my cleanup abilities. What I am fear is body rattle caused by gaps in the silicone, and Iíd rather clean up a little bit extra than deal with annoying and embarrassing body rattle that I canít solve once the build is complete.
Sounds good. If you use the Factory Five recommended 3-inch spacing into frame components and 2-inch spacing panel-to-panel along with a bead of adhesive and you're pulling the rivets tight, I can guarantee you won't have any panels rattling. When everything is done, they're rock solid. One of the things people always comment about when I take them for a ride is how tight and rattle/squeak free the car is.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #72 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
F-panel done and silicone cured (it did dry clear), I am ready to start on the Front suspension. This will get a little dicey. First the Upper Control Arms, or UCAs. These prove to be the most intricate and unclear parts to-date.

Note; I assembled most of the IFS finger-tight, and didnít torque anything down except the upper ball joints until I had it all assembled.

First item is the UCA Mounting location. The manual says to mount them on the top holes with the bolts oriented straight up-and-down. However, I see in many forum threads the UCAs are mounted on the side holes. Through emails to F5 and more detailed reading I discover that the Top holes are for use with the SN95 (94-04 Donor) spindles mated with the F5 adaptor plate, and the side holes are for use with the Factory 5-manufactured spindles. The F5 spindles are not a part of the base kit, and of course are not in stock (Iím assuming I translate that as Back-Ordered) on the F5 website. After some thought and advice from veterans, I decide to go ahead and order the F5 spindles. I just hope they donít take too long to arrive.

Second issue with the UCAs; the ball joints. The manual instructs that the UCAs must be installed with the Zerk grease fittings in the Ďpointing upí position, not down. Easy enough. I paid attention to this before installing the Upper Ball Joints. Well, not enough attention. If you look very carefully in the manual, the ball joint mounting plate has an angle to it, and they arrive from the factory pointing the wrong direction. The angle of the ball joint points inward, and it is supposed to point outward. This is not addressed at all in the manual, but if you search the forums, you find this issue and how to resolve it. You have to remove the ball joint mounting plate and flip it over, and only then is the plate oriented correctly. And of course this means that the ball joints (if installed prior to this step) are now pointing up into the air instead of down toward the spindle. Dear Lord..... I have to remove the Ball Joints and re-install them in the proper orientation. F5 should address this in their Manual.

The UCAs must also conform to preliminary adjustments of length on both arms, prior to alignment. The manual does a good job of laying this out.

The Lower control arms are much easier to assemble. I did order the F5 tubular LCAs, as much for aesthetic reasons as anything else. The Passenger Side mounts slide right in with the F5-supplied spacers, but the Drivers Side Mounts donít fit right. Not enough space between the mounting ears to get the fitting and the spacer in. I finally get the rear arm mount in, with the spacer, but I have to coax the forward arm mount in with a rubber mallet. No spacer in that one, there is just not enough room. So the bolts are in, but not torqued, as I donít want to make any mistakes on that.

I canít be the only one in the history of F5 that has had that issue. Forums are great for finding fixes, and after some searching I find a cheap fix, a ĎSpreader Toolí created out of Allthread and two flange nuts and washers. Simple, brilliant, and cheap. And useful for future suspension arm mounts, as it turns out. Mine cost me $2.61 at Home Depot. Itís essentially a 6Ē bolt with two washers and two nuts. They donít carry Flange nuts. My picture show me using the tool on the Rear LCA Knuckle Mount, but more about that later. To use the tool, assemble it as you see in the picture, then advance the nuts outward against the ears and continue until the space is adequate. I found 1 complete rotation after firm seating was adequate for the space I needed. Torquing the mount bolt will correct for any possible over-spreading. (I think)

Before I catch crap on it, I realize I took the pictures with the spacers outside the mounting ears of the LCA. I moved them inside the ears before torquing them down.

The shocks assemble pretty much how the manual shows, and bolt right into place.

So now the Front UCAs, LCAs and Shocks are in place and waiting for spindles/hubs and Brakes.

Power Steering coming later.





























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #73 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:34 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,372
Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
The angle of the ball joint points inward, and it is supposed to point outward. This is not addressed at all in the manual, but if you search the forums, you find this issue and how to resolve it. You have to remove the ball joint mounting plate and flip it over, and only then is the plate oriented correctly. And of course this means that the ball joints (if installed prior to this step) are now pointing up into the air instead of down toward the spindle. Dear Lord..... I have to remove the Ball Joints and re-install them in the proper orientation. F5 should address this in their Manual.

You mean like this?



Regarding power steering: you'll want to run about 7 to 8 degrees positive caster along with .5 to .75 degree negative camber. When using the most recent control arms with the angled ball joint plate I have found on multiple cars with various spindle configurations (including the FFR spindles) that you will bottom out the rear adjuster sleeve on the upper arms before you can achieve this. I'd advise you to address this now while the front suspension is not totally assembled rather than later. The solution is to trim approximately 1/4" of length from the rear sleeves and also cut a similar amount from the male stubs that thread into the sleeves so that the threads don't bottom out internally. A simple fix that will allow you to reach the preferred caster and camber settings (and by the way, this one is NOT addressed in the manual!)

Another item to check while the front suspension has easy access and the coilover assemblies can be easily removed is the shock settings. The 30 Series Konis are adjustable for rebound. While they are SUPPOSED to come from the manufacturer on the lowest rebound setting over the years I have found several (probably 15-20%) that came out of the box with a different setting. Generally when using the factory 500# front springs the lowest rebound works well. Not a bad idea to verify and adjust them as necessary if you haven't already done so. Here are the instructions on how to perform adjustments on the 30 Series shocks.

KONI | Adjustment Guides

Good luck and carry on!

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is online now  
post #74 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Will do on both of those, Jeff. Thanks for those tips on those UCAs. Valuable insight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #75 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Received my Power Steering rack today, remanufactured from Detroit Axle. The paint that they used appears to be spray-on. Probably typical, but Iím looking for something more long lasting and attractive. Matching black POR15 might do the trick, but it would be quite a task to strip the existing paint because of the tubing and valleys. Any suggestions on process and finish?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #76 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
On to the IRS! It starts with the Rear Differential. I used a 5/8Ē drill bit to round the front holes out, and bang the grommets into the holes in preparation for the installation.

My friend Joe comes over to hang out and chat, and I talk him into giving me a hand with lifting it into place. After protecting the frame with a couple cloth towels, we maneuver the diff up through the frame and into place. It fits much more easily than I have read. Sliding the bolts through the mounts and torquing the is straightforward. The rest of the IRS can follow.

Iím still waiting on receiving the hubs and rear brakes from Tasca, although they are now en route per UPSís email alert. So the best I can do is to get the UCAs, LCAs and Toe arms in place to temporarily the Knuckles in place.

A couple of tricks on this part.

The metal tubes that the bolts mount through in the the bushings at the frame ends of the Control Arms tend to be longer than will fit in between the ears on the frame. Two ways to solve this. Either use the spreader tool to widen the space between the ears, or shorten the metal tubes about a 16th of an inch with a grinder wheel. In the case of the Control Arm ears I shorten the metal tubes. When I tighten the bolts to the correct torque, I see they snug the ears up to the tubes just fine.

The second tricky part is the mounting ears on the knuckle end of the Control arms. again, too snug to fit the knuckle arm mount. There is no grinding down or filing the knuckle fitting, so the spreader tool is the only option. It works beautifully and I do need to use it on both sides of the car for the LCA mount. Then the shocks go on and I have an almost complete mock-up, minus half-shafts, hubs, and brakes.

Once the hubs are in hand, I will complete the IRS and pump transmission fluid into the Differential per the IRS instructions.

Cmon, Brown.






















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #77 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 10:48 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,676
It's a little late, but for others reading this thread, need to add this feedback because IMO it's an important point. (You do say input welcome. ) It's not a good idea to grind down (e.g. shorten) the inner sleeves on the control arm joints. The design is for the inner sleeve to be slightly longer than the poly bushings. When captured between the suspension tabs, the sleeve goes tight against the tabs and leaves clearance for the poly bushings and arm to move. Shortening the inner bushing could cause the arm to bind. It will still move, but may not be as free as it should be. Having to adjust the tabs while installing the suspension is kind of a rite of passage with these builds. While they're all fixtured during assembly, the fact is that metal moves when welded and it's totally normal to have to tweak them during assembly. Using a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers is the perfect and recommended way to spread them. If they're too wide, typically they close to the proper width when torqued.

Having said that, I know from personal experience the control arms for the IRS can be challenging to install. The arms are short and it doesn't take much for them to be difficult to get between the tabs. Same thing happens there. When the arms are welded the metal can move slightly. I've had a couple where even spreading the tabs didn't allow them go in. I've had to just barely tweak the control arms, either with a bar clamp to tighten or used a floor jack to spread one just slightly. Doesn't take much and then they tap in. Most of the time that's not required. But is preferable IMO over shortening the inner sleeves.

On a similar note, and just to emphasize the importance of those control arm joints, Factory Five has recently released a spherical bearing setup that replaces the poly bushings and sleeves. Guys that are going for max performance have been doing mods to these control arms for years, e.g. installing Heim joints. This is a pretty innovative way to achieve similar results. Spherical Bearing Inserts for Front Lower and 2015 IRS Control Arms - Factory Five Parts Catalog

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #78 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Yes, Edward, the input is welcomed and appreciated. With your explanation I see and understand mechanically how that works and why that is important. At this point I see I may have a few options; take the grinding wheel to the Control Arm Poly Bushings and take 1/16th off both sides to restore the function, order new metal tubes, or leave as-is. There may be other options, what would your suggestion be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #79 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 04:29 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,676
Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
Yes, Edward, the input is welcomed and appreciated. With your explanation I see and understand mechanically how that works and why that is important. At this point I see I may have a few options; take the grinding wheel to the Control Arm Poly Bushings and take 1/16th off both sides to restore the function, order new metal tubes, or leave as-is. There may be other options, what would your suggestion be?
Don't panic. I always recommend lubing them up before installation. Makes sure they're properly lubed plus they go together a bit easier. But lube them if you haven't already and then torque the bolts to the recommended setting. They're tight when new in any case. But if they move reasonably, e.g. not locked up, they're probably OK. That's my take anyway.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #80 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Well, I caught a big blunder, thanks to Jeff and his advice regarding the rear adjustable sleeves on the IFS Upper Control Arms. I would have found it sooner or later, but it was much more apparent when I had this task in mind. I removed the sleeve on the Driverís side UCA and I stood there looking at it thinking ďthis doesnít make any senseĒ. The Sleeve on the forward arm was adjusted very close, and the one in the rear was adjusted to the long setting. Both by me. Walking over to the Passenger Side I review the manualís diagram, and I see the PS is set correctly. What I must have done was set the DS UCA with the same layout as the PS, instead of mirroring it like I should have. Bonehead move, and Iím sure I would have noticed when I go to install the spindles, but Iím glad I noticed it and corrected it now rather than later. Thanks, Jeff!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #81 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Time to tidy up a couple of engine tasks. For this post, just the Heater Core bypass hose installation. F5 gives you almost all the parts to complete this, but maybe Iím just not looking in the right box. Iím short two hose clamps. At least I can get 95% of the way there. The task goes as diagrammed in the manual, pretty straightforward, so I donít have any comment on this. Iíll either find the hose clamps later and install them or buy a couple.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #82 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 12:36 AM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,372
Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
Well, I caught a big blunder, thanks to Jeff and his advice regarding the rear adjustable sleeves on the IFS Upper Control Arms. I would have found it sooner or later, but it was much more apparent when I had this task in mind. I removed the sleeve on the Driverís side UCA and I stood there looking at it thinking ďthis doesnít make any senseĒ. The Sleeve on the forward arm was adjusted very close, and the one in the rear was adjusted to the long setting. Both by me. Walking over to the Passenger Side I review the manualís diagram, and I see the PS is set correctly. What I must have done was set the DS UCA with the same layout as the PS, instead of mirroring it like I should have. Bonehead move, and Iím sure I would have noticed when I go to install the spindles, but Iím glad I noticed it and corrected it now rather than later. Thanks, Jeff!
While you were messing with the UCAs did you change to the other mounting position?

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is online now  
post #83 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
While you were messing with the UCAs did you change to the other mounting position?



Jeff


Not yet, but I will be tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #84 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Per recommendations from Edward, I ordered Energy Suspension Engine Mounts on Amazon.com. They are available through Amazon Prime, so they came rather quickly. I disassemble them, install the F5 spacers, and reassemble them using the F5-supplied carriage bolts. Only snafu will be mounting... F5 instructs me to use the mounting bolts that come with the mounts..... and there were none in the box. Iíll have to pick some up at the Hardware Store.

I do have to say, judging by the marketing printed on the box, Energy Suspension is proud of their Polypropylene.














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 02-17-2019 at 05:37 AM.
IsaacW is offline  
post #85 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
A couple of tidying up items, I found the hose clamps for the bypass hose on the Coyote, and installed them. I also relocated the front UCAs to the side mounting holes to match the F5 spindles that will be coming. Next up, progress on the steering system, Accelerator and IRS.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #86 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Ran into a couple of weird nut issues. One of the castle nuts for the lower ball joints was deformed on one of the Ďtowersí (?). One of them was pointing inward, causing it to start to cut into the bolt thread as it spins on. Of course I did not spin it on past that. And I was missing the nuts for the lower shock mount bolts where the shocks mount onto the rear LCAs. Those are not as big a deal, but Iím not sure where I can get the Castle nut. Iíll see what F5 has to say, maybe they will replace it.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #87 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
I am temporarily held up from completing the IRS until the hubs arrive, which is in a few days. So, Iíll focus on the next steps. Starting on the Power Steering. I ordered the Breeze Power Steering adaptor bushings and a remanufactured PS rack, and the Breeze instructions are great. I do end up finding small interferences between the mounting ears and the PS rack during the test fit, so I take the grinding wheel to those small areas on the frame and then touch up the exposed metal with POR15. Per the Breeze instructions, I wonít tighten up those bolts until the IFS and rod ends are complete and I can make the appropriate measurement and adjustments.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #88 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
First Time Builder
 
IsaacW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 210
Also starting to piece the steering system together. We install the two bearing blocks and slide in the steering column.... waiting until the rack is back in after the POR15 dries, then we will connect the rack adaptor.
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
IsaacW is offline  
post #89 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 06:07 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,676
What pedal box are planning to use? Don't see that mentioned anywhere. Just so you know, that footbox front is for a Mustang donor pedal box. Meaning a second hole by the steering column for the master cylinder, plus the inner location of the clutch quadrant. If you're planning to use a Wilwood pedal box, there's a different footbox front for that and probably doesn't come with a base kit.

Two suggestions: You'll probably need to put a couple washers under that upper pillow block. Guys are finding that setup (it's relatively new) causes the steering shaft to interfere with the frame. Looks like yours does or is really close. And while you're at it, turn the bearing around so the set screws are on the back. That's per the manual.

Hopefully you also installed the two Belleville spring washers when assembling the upper and lower steering shaft. Guys often miss that, and then find there's play between the upper and lower shaft.

You're making good progress.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #90 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:31 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,372
And...if you couple the lower steering shaft to the rack understand that it will only be temporary. It has to be moved aside to install the engine.

Jeff
IsaacW thanked this.

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FFR 9457 Roadster build thread sdonnel Factory Five Roadsters 23 05-31-2019 02:10 PM
new roadster build egchewy New Member Introductions 6 01-29-2019 10:56 AM
FFR 9439 Roadster Build Status dwleo Factory Five Roadsters 0 12-18-2018 03:40 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.