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post #271 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like a version with cats installed.


Yep, catalytic converters are installed in the headers.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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2015 Mustang IRS
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post #272 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 07:59 PM
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I suspected the Coyote Installation Kit would have the bracket, but not in my case for some reason. I even looked through the list of parts included in the kit and it didnít have it listed in the Coyote Installation Parts at all in my shipping manifest, not even as a back order.

Thanks for the tip on the shifter, Iíll do that before we get started. I also noted this morning as I looked at your pictures that you swung the triple reservoir aside that in order to get the engine head down past it, and Iíll loosen that up and do that as well.

I pulled the rubber donut off the output shaft and much to my surprise, some transmission fluid came flowing right out. I was under the impression that they were shipped dry..... I slipped the donut partially back into place to stop any more from coming out in the install process. Hopefully that does not cause an issue. Iíll have to make sure there is not enough in there to leak out the shifter.

I've never had a new Tremec received with fluid. Could just be residual assembly lubrication. Easy enough to check. Remove the lower drain plug and see if any fluid comes out. You don't want fluid in the transmission before putting into the chassis. The down angle required for assembly will dump fluid out the back.

There is a rubber donut installed inside the output area for shipping. Depending on who you bought the transmission from, it may have been removed already. If the rubber piece in your picture is what you removed, that's a permanent seal for the slip yoke and is supposed to be there. Looks like it may be damaged now? If so, they're available and should be replaced.


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post #273 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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I've never had a new Tremec received with fluid. Could just be residual assembly lubrication. Easy enough to check. Remove the lower drain plug and see if any fluid comes out. You don't want fluid in the transmission before putting into the chassis. The down angle required for assembly will dump fluid out the back.



There is a rubber donut installed inside the output area for shipping. Depending on who you bought the transmission from, it may have been removed already. If the rubber piece in your picture is what you removed, that's a permanent seal for the slip yoke and is supposed to be there. Looks like it may be damaged now? If so, they're available and should be replaced.

I wasnít expecting this one to have fluid either..... this the surprise. Hehe.

Paul... when I removed the shifter cover per your recommend, I found a little fluid in there. I suspect there may be more in the body.

Regarding the rubber part that I removed, I think I removed the right piece and left the right one in there.

Hereís the one I removed.







And hereís a few pics of the on that remains on the tail end of the tranny. It appears to me to be the seal that would fit around the output shaft.







I think I have it right. Let me know if I goofed up.



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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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2015 Mustang IRS
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post #274 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, everyone, for the input. I appreciate it, need it, and am thankful for the coaching.

Just want you all to feel free to keep guiding me along the path.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
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post #275 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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Iím getting a little ahead, but I will get caught up. When I reinstalled the shifter cover, Something caught my eye. I may have inadvertently put the shifter cover too far over in relation to the steel below it. I noticed a lap over on the right-hand side of the cover and a lap under on the left. It is not difficult to remove the bolts and cover and reapply gasket material in order to make it perfectly straight .... would you take the time to do so?






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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
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post #276 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 10:34 AM
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You removed the right part (the "donut") and the remaining seal looks fine. Just made me nervous with the previous picture and description. Sorry about any undue concern there. Hard to say about that shifter being off a little. It works with a ball and socket joint which you probably saw when you took it apart. And seems that would handle whatever misalignment might result. If it's not too much bother, I'd probably re-center it. Easy now. Not so easy later. But that's just me.

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post #277 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

So, tried to re-center the shifter cover, found out that is the only position it will sit in, it wonít shift right due to the location of the bolt holes in the transmission body. Oh well, no harm done.


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2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
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post #278 of 310 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Engine Install Day!! A big milestone, and Iím excited for it! Iíve double-checked all my engine prep, Sender installs, wiring harness prep, Transmission install..... I think itís time to stop stalling and get on with it!

Iíve had the engine on the lift for the past week with transmission install going on. I have arranged for a couple of buddies to come over and give me a hand maneuvering the engine into place. The Roller is positioned to accept the engine; I have the front wheels up on 4x10s and the back is on Jack Stands raised up almost 15Ē off the ground, so itís at quite an angle which should help install. Iíve got the fuel line and wiring harness legs lashed back, I took the additional step of swinging the brake fluid reservoir to the outside of the frame rail and we grabbed a couple of blankets for the upper frame rails. I also taped off the insides of the surfaces likely to be scratched or dinged by the engine or transmission.



Ready to fill the hole...



Before proceeding, we talked about the steps to installing the engine.

1. Position the lift and raise the engine
2. Move the engine rearward until transmission is almost touching firewall
3. Loop pull tape under front crossmember and over nose of tranny
4. Pull downward on transmission nose to achieve install angle
5. Ease engine rearward and downward in alternating steps
6. When engine is a few inches above mount, install headers
7. Lower engine to mounts

So letís get to it.



We get the powerplant into place .......
My daughter loves to pose.



We raised the engine until it clears the front radiator crossmember. Josh is making sure the engine doesnít hit the radiator crossmember.



Still posing ....

Groan.

Crank down the load leveler, and loop the pull tape over the nose to get more down angle on it.




We go ahead and gradually lower the engine and creep it rearward in an alternating pattern, adjusting on the fly. Shawn guiding the tranny.



Once we got the engine down into the compartment we needed a little help guiding the nose of the transmission; we used the floor jack to get the nose up and over the A-frame that we had previously installed. Once we got the the engine back far enough we drop the engine down almost into place.



Time to get the headers in place. First we squeeze a bead of gasket material around the header tube openings on the flange, and then we finger-tighten the header bolts snug. The gasket material directions instruct us to snug them up, then wait an hour before torquing them down. The header bolts do present a challenge in a couple of spots where the header tubes interfere with starting a bolt into the hole, but we only had to loosen the driverís side header up once to get the last bolt started into the hole.





While we are waiting on the gasket material to firm up, we go ahead and drop the engine down the rest of the way, while making sure the transmission stays in place.



And sheís in!! More detailed work and pictures in posts to follow. I canít tell you how excited I am to have the engine in and the headers installed! My friends headed out to continue their Sunday with their families, but their help was awesome and made short work of a big task. All told it took about 2 hours being careful and taking pictures.







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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #279 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Now that the engine is in, we take the blankets off the frame rails and peeled most of the tape off the frame. I also returned the triple reservoir to its mounted position. I couldnít help but start to lay the wiring harnesses in their spots and start to make a few easy connections. One of those which has the potential to cause some sparking is the power wire to the starter. We go ahead and make up that connection.




Will post a pic of it made up ....

Another easy one to make up but also easy to forget is the ground strap. Pretty important to the engine operating properly.




Bolt, nut, and a washer for good measure, to make sure the strap doesnít slip out. Being a good electrician I make sure that the POR15 coating is ground off the frame on both side of the contact surface to ensure good continuity, especially for the main engine ground.



Iíve also been concerned with how much of the anti-seize compound could possibly get into the top of the O2 sensors while they slip around in the bag, however rational or not that may be, so I go ahead and spin those into place and tighten them up, just wrench tight, not too concerned about torque value on those.







Judging by the location of the shifter, I get the impression that Iíll be sticking with the rear position due to frame rail interference. I temporarily slipped the transmission tunnel cover on. I am thinking a spacer will be necessary for aligning the output shaft with the Differential adaptor plate, and Iím hoping it will solve what looks like an rubbing of the shifter handle on the tunnel cover.









I also pulled out the side pipes and temporarily mounted them finger tight to the headers ...... couldnít help it. That was one of the parts that made me break into a big grin when I was doing inventory.





Starting to shape up.......


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #280 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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So, several projects on the list right now, and I have made progress on most.
1) Dash covering, gauges and electrical
2) Engine Electrical finishing
3) Power Steering
4) Cooling system
5) Air Intake

Iím also considering a few items. The side pipes that I currently own are the base kit raw metal side pipes and not the finished look Iím going for. I will run them during go-cart phase, but the final finish will likely involve an upgrade to polished stainless.

Second, Iím considering the location of my coolant overflow/fill tank and the style. The standard is the polished Aluminum Moroso Mustang replacement tank. No sight glass, and at the accepted location, itís below the engine, or at least appears to be. I am considering a tank similar to the Moroso 63776 tank, and mounting it back near the ECU. This will accomplish a few things. It will elevate it above the engine, it will balance the look of the stainless triple reservoir on the other side of the engine compartment, and it will make it more accessible instead of being tucked up under the hood. I would be able to dodge the coolant line inside the engine cover to hide it fairly quickly. Another small thing, it will make it look a little less crowded up at the front of the engine compartment. The rear corner of the engine compartment is looking a little lonely, with no wipers, Fuse block, etc. there is nothing over there. Just seems right to me.... maybe others have tried it and failed?

Has anyone used FW1 Washing Wax? Iíve heard good things. And what cleaner is the best for the Leather dash? Even covered, itís tending to accumulate dust.




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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #281 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 06:38 PM
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Second, Iím considering the location of my coolant overflow/fill tank and the style. The standard is the polished Aluminum Moroso Mustang replacement tank. No sight glass, and at the accepted location, itís below the engine, or at least appears to be. I am considering a tank similar to the Moroso 63776 tank, and mounting it back near the ECU. This will accomplish a few things. It will elevate it above the engine, it will balance the look of the stainless triple reservoir on the other side of the engine compartment, and it will make it more accessible instead of being tucked up under the hood. I would be able to dodge the coolant line inside the engine cover to hide it fairly quickly. Another small thing, it will make it look a little less crowded up at the front of the engine compartment. The rear corner of the engine compartment is looking a little lonely, with no wipers, Fuse block, etc. there is nothing over there. Just seems right to me.... maybe others have tried it and failed?
Of course, do what you want. But kind of apples and oranges comparison. The Moroso 63806 tank you see many of us installing in Coyote builds is an expansion tank. Not a traditional gravity style overflow tank. It's installed in a similar location and plumbed exactly like a Mustang. The height it ends up at is fine because it operates via pressure. Site glass isn't an issue in my experience. Once filled, I've found it doesn't change. The tank eliminates the need for a T-filler in the top radiator hose, and makes burping air from the engine a non-issue because it does that by design. Bottom line it's a closed system that operates the Coyote exactly like Ford designed it.
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post #282 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Of course, do what you want. But kind of apples and oranges comparison. The Moroso 63806 tank you see many of us installing in Coyote builds is an expansion tank. Not a traditional gravity style overflow tank. It's installed in a similar location and plumbed exactly like a Mustang. The height it ends up at is fine because it operates via pressure. Site glass isn't an issue in my experience. Once filled, I've found it doesn't change. The tank eliminates the need for a T-filler in the top radiator hose, and makes burping air from the engine a non-issue because it does that by design. Bottom line it's a closed system that operates the Coyote exactly like Ford designed it.


Paul, I do plan on plumbing it like you did with a small line coming off the expansion port, not with a T-filler. It would end up acting as an expansion tank. I do want to use one that employs a blowoff cap, not just a cap, in case of emergency, and feeds from the bottom. A little more interesting to find.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
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post #283 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:46 PM
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Paul, I do plan on plumbing it like you did with a small line coming off the expansion port, not with a T-filler. It would end up acting as an expansion tank. I do want to use one that employs a blowoff cap, not just a cap, in case of emergency, and feeds from the bottom. A little more interesting to find.
Still not the same since the factory setup also includes a line to the top of the radiator with a one-way valve. That's part of how it keeps air out of the system. Mustangs (and our builds) have run millions of miles without blow-off caps when set up the way Ford designed. Controlling engine temp is a big deal. Altering a known working setup is risky IMO for no other reason than the aesthetics and perceived inconvenience (which it isn't) of the tank location. Good luck whatever you do.

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post #284 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Still not the same since the factory setup also includes a line to the top of the radiator with a one-way valve. That's part of how it keeps air out of the system. Mustangs (and our builds) have run millions of miles without blow-off caps when set up the way Ford designed. Controlling engine temp is a big deal. Altering a known working setup is risky IMO for no other reason than the aesthetics and perceived inconvenience (which it isn't) of the tank location. Good luck whatever you do.


Ahah... I must not have read enough to be aware of the one-way valve to the radiator .... Iíll re-visit that. I agree, I donít want to mess with the way Ford designed the ECU to control the engine temperature.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #285 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Back to The Dash for a bit. Final mock-up completed, we picked up some Landau Contact cement from the local Home Depot. In hindsight all we needed for the dash and seats would have been about 1 Cup, but we may end up using it for the carpet in which case we will probably use the majority of it. But back to the final dash mock-up.

Driverís main view. Call me weird, I want to see the speedo as my primary gauge with my left arm blocking the view of the left gauge. Force of habit for eyeball movement, and thatís the main information I want.



Middle of the dash. Gauges are in order of importance from left to right and top to bottom, roughly grouping temps and pressures close to each other. The clock will not be remaining, but will be replaced by an electronic fuel pressure gauge with a pressure sender at the fuel rail when I replace the stock fuel rail. I have the wires there waiting.



Received my Headlight Switch and ignition switch and got them temped in place. Heated seat switches ... check. Ordered a hazard light switch and high beam switch from Amazon; they are a couple toggle buttons with icons and indicator lights from what appears to be the same company under two different names. Etopar? Esupport? Ok...... anyway. That concludes my gauge and switch mock-up..... time to stop procrastinating and get the dash assembled.

To support the dash we cut 4 pieces of aluminum angle bracket and countersunk screws into the dash. Before I glue the covering on, I wanted to make sure the screws donít create any irregularities on the surface of the covering once itís done. We use some epoxy spread thinly across the screw heads and countersink divots. I let that dry overnight sitting face up to let it spread as evenly as possible.



After letting that dry, we sand the epoxy down a little to make it flush, and then we clean the surface off with acetone. More cleaning after bending and fingerprints.

So whatís next? The assembly directions donít do a great job of telling you what order to do what task in. After staring and thinking about it, I decide to first mark a sharpie reference mark on the back of the dash covering, then roll the ends of the dash and bend a 90 at the notches, paint on the Landau Cement, let it dry, and then stick the dash onto the covering and roll it together. Iím trying to avoid glueing the dash and covering it before bending it. We will see how this goes.

First I mark the covering on the white back for reference along the bottom lip of the dash. Then I grab a quart paint can and head to a long flat surface to try to roll these edges. Canít lie, Iím afraid Iíll screw up. This is what I have to curve inward.



They say you can use a paint can to roll the ends ....



Here goes. I grasp the end against the paint can and roll the two toward the center of the dash, firmly keeping the two held together.



So far so good.... itís rolling around the paint can.....



And I keep rolling until the end wraps almost completely around the can. The bend is nice and smooth.... now to bend the end 90-degrees. There are two circular notches that mark there the ends of the bend should be. My old reliable hand tongs make short work of the bend.







And there we have one end done .... repeat the process for the other end.... almost. The end of the metal at the Passenger end of the dash needs a little trimming, but just a little, and a rebend at a slightly different angle to avoid hitting the dash. In this picture the dash is putting a little pressure on the firewall.



A little snip-snip along the bottom, and my sharpie mark showing the estimated rebend angle ....



Continued....




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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
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post #286 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Before ..... you can see my bend markings, and my trim markings, at the bottom.



After...




Much better fit. No pressure. Check the other side .... how do we fit there?



Looking good on Driverís side. Now that the dash is bent appropriately, we double-check all the holes for fitment. Two of them concern me in particular, the steering wheel and the Headlight Switch. The steering wheel hole is too tall, and I donít want the dash cover dimpling in where there is no backing. I decide to cut a piece of sheet aluminum from my old Footbox front and epoxy that to the dash on the backside. Simple enough. For the Headlight Switch we use an oversized washer and a Dremel with a stone wheel to notch the inside of the washer before epoxying it into place behind the dash. I think it was a layout decision change that resulted in the incorrect hole size.



From the front ...



We let that dry, then filled in the front side with a little epoxy to bring those more flush. After sufficient drying time, we clean the surface with epoxy before Landau Cement is applied.


After triple-checking finished layout and clean surface, we use a 4Ē wide bush to apply Landau Cement to the back of the dash covering and the front of the dash surface. Drying time of 20 minutes is advised and I monitor it for tackiness and sheen. After about 20 minutes most of the two mating surfaces are dry, so itís time to apply. There was a little waviness in the dash cover material; Iím planning on using a roller to firmly roll the material both directions outward from the center. After very carefully lining the dash up with the mark on the back of the dash material, I gently rest the dash down onto the material. After some firm pressing down of the middle of the dash onto the material, I gently pick it up and turn it over. Using a tube of silicone, I start in the center and firmly roll the material outward toward the ends, including around the curved ends. Ok.... material applied, let it dry. Iíll roll the edges over after I cut out for the gauges and can pull those tabs in at the same time.



After overnight drying I mark the cutouts and start notching the dash material for rolling it over. My cutting tool is a simple box cutter, cutting from the backside, and I do have to break it a few tabs down every so often to keep the cutter sharp.



After cutting the holes out, notching them for foldover and notching the material around the edges, I apply more Landau Cement along the edge and bottom of the dash and all the way around the perimeter of the dash material, and let that dry. The stuff is smelly, use in a well ventilated area.



After drying about 30 minutes, I fold over the edge cutouts and press them into place with my ĎRollerí. Itís starting to look better.





After drying time (yeeesh...!) I start installation of the gauges and controls.











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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #287 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Continuing down the path.... getting more gauges in place.





Almost all done with fitting, just Headlight and ignition switches to be fitment checked.



All the gauges in, final fitting before starting in on the dash wiring.



Hmm. One issue noticed, and Iíll own this with my inexperience. The foam in the ends of the bottom of the dash are showing, and I think will continue to show.



I think the best solution is going to be making the white disappear by using some Landau Cement to cover that small area with some leftover dash cover material. Any thoughts?



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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #288 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Another order from Jegs and the suggested Moroso Coyote Expansion tank is on its way. My KRC power steering kit should be arriving soon.

I return to the Engine Electrical before wiring the dash. I have to perform a number of tasks; tach connection, sender connections, Engine Harness touch-up, fan wire connection, and fuel line.

Starting with the tach connection, the Ron Francis sender Harness already has the purple wire carrying through to the dash harness and breaks out of the sender harness near the #7 coil pack. I tie in to the purple wire that feeds that coil pack.



Next comes the senders. I pondered this a while. The sender harness is long enough to make it almost around the front of the DS head and almost down to the senders themselves. I have the water temp, oil temp and oil pressure to bring up and around. So do I bring the sender harness all the way down and around to the senders, or bring the sender cables up through some convolute and make the connections up under the engine cover? Whichever way, the wires will have to avoid the steering column and pass near the headers. The route will have to stay tight as it comes around, and I plan on sleeving the wires inside some heat shield as they pass by the headers.
I end up making the decision based on the difficulty making up the connections and then accessing them later. Making them up lower will be much more difficult and prohibitive after the build is complete, whereas if I run the cables up to the area under the engine cover, it will be a simple task to take the cover off and access those connections. I group the three cables together.....



Keep reading, itís not done .......

I pull some convolute over the three cables and sleeve some heat shield tube over the convolute. The heat generated by the header will likely make any nylon zip-ties down there brittle and crack and I opt to go with Stainless Steel zip-ties to bind them away from the header. No use taking any chances. We also ran the alternator leg of the RF harness down under the engine mount and tightened that onto the stud on the alternator.




Wrapped them up and around the front alongside the engine harness, then along the fuel rail to the connection point. Once I have the cables up there, I strip the sender cables to get down to the conductors.






From there itís just a matter of crimping all the grounds together and connecting the sensor leads, then covering it in convolute. While I am working right there, I put the fitting on the fuel line and temp it onto the fuel rail. I have an inline port fitting coming from Amazon that I will install the fuel pressure sender in at a later date.



On the passenger side of the Coyote we replaced the 1Ē convolute that had covered the engine harness between the PS valve cover and the ECU. It had gotten a little roughed up before we got ahold of it, so we replaced the loom and tape..... looks much better. Itís starting to look like an engine compartment.










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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #289 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Engine electrical connections done, I return to the Main Harness wiring. Itís not necessarily complicated but it would be rather lengthy going over everything I did, but Iíll try to hit all the important points.

Perhaps redundant, but the items that I chose to bring together are the Russ Thompson Turn Signal, CobraHeat heated seats, third party hazard and high beam switches, F5 Headlight and ignition switches, under-dash start-enable button, under-dash and under-frame-rail trunk courtesy lights, cigarette-lighter-style power plug, Color-coded power buses and of course the Ron Francis Main Harness.

Starting with the Hot Rod leg and Russ Thompson Turn Signal. Iím listing these two together because they relate, at least how I chose to wire it. Initially I chose to take some of the convolute off, trace the Hot Rod Leg wires back to the Dash Harness interconnect plug, and cut those wires off about 1Ē shy of the plug. I covered the ends of the wires with Heat Shrink to keep anything from shorting out. In hindsight, I would have cut the End harness off, and left the wires long. What I ended up doing was taking the turn signal wires and horn wires from the Hot Rod leg and redirecting them over toward the steering column. I installed a 6-pin Molex Plug on the Turn Signal wires and Hot Rod plug wires so that I could Quick-connect and disconnect during the install process, as we will be taking it off and putting it on several times.





I ordered a set of bus bars from Mofeez on Amazon, and installed them on top of the 2Ē crossbar. I chose to mount the negative bus directly behind the gauges and the positive behind the glove compartment are for two reasons; I need power over behind the glove compartment area and I need grounds for wiring harnesses behind the gauges.



First to mount is the ground bus in the middle. I river it to the frame and run a large bonding wire over to the 3/4Ē frame rail.





I put the main harness ground (dash side) on the end stud, and stack the bonding wire on that.



I make up the grounds with ring terminals and land them on the ground bus.



I had to be careful when doing this because the GPS Antennae wire looks a lot like a black ground wire and would have been easy to irreversibly clip right off. That could have been a small disaster.

I mount the positive bus on the passenger side.



I ran the heater power wire to the positive bus, and fed the heated Seats and the courtesy lights from there. The circuit is large enough to handle the amps from both seat heaters and the next-to-nothing amp draw from the LED courtesy lights. I wired up a custom switch setup with the factory quick-disconnect plugs for the dash switches for the heated seats and connected those to the bus.






On the seat end, I drilled and tapped the ground into the under-seat metal and used the Dremel to clear out enough material to ensure good frame contact to the Ring terminal.



More details to come.



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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 08-18-2019 at 07:35 PM.
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post #290 of 310 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

The CobraHeat install went fairly smoothly with a slight learning curve on the disassembly side.

Two mats to install for each seat, one for the back cushion and one for the Seat Cushion. They come with convenient adhesive strips on each side and are just about the perfect length for both cushions. They have trimming instruction, but I did not end up trimming any off either one.





The back cushion leather is held to the seat by a number of Hog Rings, and undoing specific rings allows the mat to be slid up under the back leather. The lower seat cushion leather is easy enough to separate from the cushion. The learning curve comes in on the number of Hog Rings you have to remove to get the seat back leather up enough to slide the mat in; itís fewer than I thought, and only certain ones are necessary before it will lift up to allow install.







Got the back mat installed, carefully peeled the cover off the adhesive and itís sticking in place and held by the leather. Re-secured the Leather, and now to the seat cushion.





I wrapped the mat down over the front lip of the seat cushion. Iíd rather do that than trim it. With the seat cushion mat installed, now to glue the leather back to the cushion with Landau Cement.



Painted on the cement on both the foam and the leather side strips, and allowed 30 minutes to dry. Rolled them together and let them dry.



Repeated the process with the other seat, and the heat is installed.

After drying we follow edwardbís example and install 1/4Ē aluminum bar spacers along the bottom seat rails. Great way to allow the wires to run down below without pinching. Only $18, plus rivets.





Drilled and riveted into place. One of the tougher things about this build is keeping the build area clean, especially with metal shavings and spirals from drilling. Maybe not tougher, but tedious. Iíd rather be building than cleaning, but it must be done.

The wires can now travel through without being pinched. Now to reinsert my customized controller and make sure the connections all make it without pinching. We will wait to bolt the seats in until after carpet install.




More Electrical to follow.

Just received my KRC Kit so installation of that is coming soon.



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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

Last edited by IsaacW; 08-19-2019 at 08:27 PM.
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post #291 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Moving toward finishing the electrical behind the dash. The Coyote Pack connections are fairly straightforward according to the CCP connection diagram and I let that connection harness sit where it naturally settled right above the steering column. I did not end up cutting the Coyote pack wires shorter, but instead created a loop of wire which worked out reasonably well with the other legs diving in and out of the convolute.






Rather messy right now, but it will clean up a bit.

I had split the main harness open to deal with the Hot Rod Leg, powering the courtesy lights, adding the power plug, turn signal and the other extras. I plug the accelerator harness into the pedal and with the connections basically done, itís a matter of getting the wires into convolute, arranged neatly and secured to eliminate drooping. The only trailers still hanging are the ignition switch, headlight switch and wires to the trunk lights.





We use a few clamps to secure the wiring in place. After connecting the trunk light wires to the other courtesy light wires, making up the convolute and securing with some clamps, we are basically done with the behind-the-dash wiring. I dry fit the dash over the steering column and check attachment points for the harness plugs. Iíve read that location of the RF Dash Harness is paramount in making up the wiring on the back of the dash. We approximate the resting location of the harness with dash on.



Time to start making up the dash wiring. I move to the kitchen table, as it has the large flat surface I need.



Laying the wiring harness in place and keeping it in place proves to be a little challenge, as the natural curl want to either more it of flip it over. I use a couple tools to hold it down.



Thereís a lot of connections to make, but most of them are straightforward according to the manual and the gauge set instructions. There are a few questions but I will address them in a later post. For now have the dash wiring mostly wrapped up.

Fitted the dash back on and clicked the connectors in. If anything is connected wrong, we will see it shortly.



Turned the Master Disconnect on, noticed the Hazard Flasher indicator light came on immediately ..... first dash wiring error, but will fix that easily. Turned the key on and .... gauges turned and whirred.... no smoke or burning smells!! No Major wiring snafus so far. Feeling good about that. Turned the garage lights off to get a better look at the backlight.



Now, the clock is not connected, so disregard that. But, the oil temp gauge is connected, but no backlight. Hmmm. MIL light is on, which I halfway expected. Gauge lights donít dim with the Headlight Switch. So a few things to address, but making progress in the right direction. Iíll add a few more pics of the back of the dash in a later post.







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Isaac Wilson
Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #292 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacW View Post
...Gauge lights donít dim with the Headlight Switch...
They aren't supposed to. The Speedhut/FFR gauge backlighting is controlled by the inverter and dimmer rheostat in their pigtail harness. And if you don't already happen to be aware the clock pointers are not lighted...guess Speedhut just figures if it's dark out you don't need to know what time it is (won't really matter 'cause Speedhut clocks are wrong most of the time anyway)

Jeff

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post #293 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
They aren't supposed to. The Speedhut/FFR gauge backlighting is controlled by the inverter and dimmer rheostat in their pigtail harness. And if you don't already happen to be aware the clock pointers are not lighted...guess Speedhut just figures if it's dark out you don't need to know what time it is (won't really matter 'cause Speedhut clocks are wrong most of the time anyway)



Jeff


Yeah, I looked for the inverter/rheostat and couldnít find it in the box. Iíll be coming back to that later, I may have to reorder that from Speedhut.

I am aware of the clock hands.... but I donít have the clock connected. Iím just using it as a space holder for my fuel pressure gauge until I receive it.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #294 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 02:35 AM
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Isaac,

Thanks for the fantastic build log. I've been following your build with some interest. Your explanations make it easy to understand the logic behind your decisions. I'm still in the project planning stages and taking lots of "notes". You're making great progress!

I used to live in Vancouver, and now reside up north (Everett). I do travel down to Portland visiting friends, and would very much like to see your build some time.

Marshall
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post #295 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marshc56 View Post
Isaac,



Thanks for the fantastic build log. I've been following your build with some interest. Your explanations make it easy to understand the logic behind your decisions. I'm still in the project planning stages and taking lots of "notes". You're making great progress!



I used to live in Vancouver, and now reside up north (Everett). I do travel down to Portland visiting friends, and would very much like to see your build some time.



Marshall


You are welcome to come around! I do work days so let me know ahead of time if you can. Donít forget to read the builds by edwardb, he is more experienced and has great details on his and many others. I may sound like I know what Iím doing but Iíve done lots of reading on their threads.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #296 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

I didnít find, nor do I recall seeing the gauge dimmer in my gauge kit, so I ordered that and my fuel pressure gauge from Speedhut. The fuel gauge is supposedly 3 weeks out, but I received the dimmer assembly within a few days. Looking at it, it definitely does not ring a bell. Iíll get to that soon.

The seats are ready to install and I am moving them around unintentionally quite a bit as we work in the cockpit. Itís time to bolt them in before we damage something.

First is the fit. I find that with my 5í 10Ē frame I am comfortable operating the pedals with the seat position almost all the way back to the rear. With clutch pedal depressed fully my left leg is still slightly bent. The Leather Steering Wheel is a little closer than my daily driverís wheel, but my left arm sits comfortably with my left hand at 1 oíclock, and my right arm falls almost right on the shifter arm. I planned the seat heater wire penetrations right in the corner of the seat frame space where I anticipated placing the seat, and I have been assessing the seat fit for a while as I work on it. Time to lock it in.

One thing I have discovered in visiting others with Cobras - the seats work best when the are not mounted exactly straight with the frame. They mount at a slight outward angle to align the legs with the foot boxes.

First step is to clean the cockpit floor. It has accumulated some metal shavings, dust, and other junk. Gotta have a clean area. Just in time to dirty it up. Hehe. We take the vacuum cleaner to it.



We place the seats in place, and gauge good bolt locations. The manual does not lay out exact or required bolt locations, but I do some reading to see where others have drilled them in, and settle on these spots.

.

You can see I have two temps in just to hold the seat roughly in place while I drill the others through the floor.

The safety harnesses will pose an installation challenge if I donít install them before the seats. I pull out the installation hardware included in the base kit and the harnesses. They are impressive, and sobering. The fact that these cars mandate a 5-point racing harness in order to be reasonably safe? Iíll be taking it slow at the beginning for sure. Iím considering taking a track instruction class that a friend teaches at PIR.... but thatís down the road a ways. Anyway...... I loosely bolt the side and rear straps into place. Looks like a bolt, nylock nut and two washers per strap.



After drilling the holes and temping the restraints in, more cleanup is necessary.



I save the front strap for last, as there is not a clear direction on placement except for Ď20 degrees behind the midlineí.... or something close to that. I think Iíll place them where they will touch the front of the seat when occupied. This is as far back as would be effective in the event of a crash, and should effectively keep the center latch point held down in place under normal use. This point is about 1Ē back from the 2Ē crossbar under the seatfloor at the front.



Hereís a picture of the bolts under the floor.




The Base Kit does not come with bolts to secure the seats, so a trip to the hardware store was required to buy the Button Head SS bolts, washers and Nylon Locknuts. The seats will need to come out again when I install carpet and to facilitate this and prevent galling of the SS bolt-nut combos, I use a small amount of Anti-Seize compound on the threads. Just a dab.

Make sure that the seat cushion attachment is snapped into place before you tighten the bolts, or you will have to loosen them back up to get the cushion snapped in. Not that I made that blunder, it was a friend ... yeah, a friend.

With that in place, bolts tightened down and heater wires snapped into place, we go ahead and remove the tape over the Velcro at the back. Seat cushion down.



Repeat the procedure for the other side.




Now to adjust the harnesses. I understand the latch point should be as low as comfortable across the hips while not cutting into the top of the legs. The shoulder straps require quite a bit of adjustment into the trunk in order to not have a ton of extra on the latch end.

Once both sides are complete, we lay them in place and itís looking good.



I will be using the Vinagroon method to dye the leather of the latch base and the door straps.

My only fitment question is on the outer shoulder strap on both sides. The anchor point on the frame is too close to the side panel to sit straight, so it sits a little tweaked inward. This is in conflict with the cutout in the cockpit panel, which is slightly outside of the frame rail. This creates a zig-zag in the shoulder strap that canít be good. I imagine in normal use the strap may wear on the inner contact point of the cockpit hole, and in the event of an impact the belt may tear or shear.





I have time to make possible tweaks, as the seats will be coming back out before carpet installation. No pressure.

Input would be appreciated here.






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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights

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post #297 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 08:55 PM
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You ask for input. Hope it turns out OK, but generally not recommended to finalize the seat locations until the body is on. The upper corner of the seats, near the door latches, is pretty close to the body with the seats in their optimal position. Now that you've done it, hope for the best. But you may have to adjust them once the body is on. Also, I like bling as much as the next guy, and use my share of SS bolts. But I hope you realize those hardware store SS bolts are roughly half the strength of grade 5 hardware. I personally wouldn't use them in high stress or safety related places. And bolting the seats down would fit both categories. On a different front, I too am about 5'-10" and find with the standard Roadster seats, all the way back against the back wall is about right. Taller folks end up with different seats plus probably have to bend their legs some more.
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post #298 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster w/IRS, First Build - Input Welcome, Many Questions.

Ahhh.... didnít think about the bolt strength, just durability underneath the car after completion. Iíll rethink those, and look for some button-head grade 8.

I was looking for input on the restraint strap placement, and the sharp-edge and/or shear force put on it by the cockpit metal edge.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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post #299 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
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I was looking for input on the restraint strap placement, and the sharp-edge and/or shear force put on it by the cockpit metal edge.
Sorry, meant to respond about that one too. Not much you're going to do about the placement of the attachment. All Mk3 and Mk4's have been that way since FF went away from the single attachment point. The kit includes some plastic edging to put around the opening. Or many of use these seat belt trim plates to smooth out the edge. Plus they look better. I haven't seen any wear on my Mk4 harness after three driving seasons. I really don't think it's an issue for routine use. In the event of a collision, agree it's maybe less than optimal. But I personally don't see any chance that's going to shear the belt. If it does, afraid there are bigger problems to deal with. Just don't ever find out.
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post #300 of 310 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, meant to respond about that one too. Not much you're going to do about the placement of the attachment. All Mk3 and Mk4's have been that way since FF went away from the single attachment point. The kit includes some plastic edging to put around the opening. Or many of use these seat belt trim plates to smooth out the edge. Plus they look better. I haven't seen any wear on my Mk4 harness after three driving seasons. I really don't think it's an issue for routine use. In the event of a collision, agree it's maybe less than optimal. But I personally don't see any chance that's going to shear the belt. If it does, afraid there are bigger problems to deal with. Just don't ever find out.


Excellent, will order two pairs of those. Appreciate that.


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Vancouver, WA

Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
LED Lights
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