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-   -   Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/627425-shark92651s-mk4-coyote-build-9327-a.html)

shark92651 03-17-2018 07:42 PM

Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Side Pipes mounted
 
While my Kit is still about 3 weeks from delivery, I have actually started working on it already so I decided to go ahead and start a build thread so that I can consolidate all my updates and questions into a single thread. If you count the obsessive research I have been doing online, I guess you could say I have been "working" on it since December 2017. I attended the Mott Build School the weekend of 3/9 - 3/11, which I found to be excellent. I met a lot of cool people including a few more builders here in Texas.

I've always loved the AC Cobra as long as I can remember, and have thought about building a replica off and on over the years. I finally got my mind set that I was going to build a Factory Five roadster and with a tepid buy-in from the wife (she is coming around, or at least accepted it is inevitable now) it is on now. Besides, I was born in 1965 so it's like it was meant to be ;)

Here is my planned build:

MK4 Complete Kit with IRS
Coyote 5.0L
Tremec TKO 600
Quicktime Bellhousing
Ford Performance Clutch
Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing
KRC Power Steering
Koni single-adjustable shocks
13" Wilwood brakes
18" Halibrand Wheels
Stainless side pipes

Other Upgrades
Dual Breeze Stainless Roll Bars
Russ Thompson Trunk Box (yes I'm going to cut the diagonals)
Russ Thompson turn signals
Competition Gauge Layout
Leather Covered Dash w/ Glove Box
USB Charger, 12V adapter, Footwell Lights (hidden under dash)
Leather Removable Trans Tunnel Cover
Leather Bucket Seats
Leather Door Panels
LED Headlights, turn signals, tail/brake lights, dash indicators

Color is undecided at this point, probably one of the first items I ever thought about and will probably be the last decision I make.

I'm really looking forward to this process and want to thank everyone that has helped me already and those that will in the future. This forum and it's participants are an invaluable resource! My experience with working on cars in not very extensive. I have installed LED lighting in the front and rear of my truck, replaced a radiator on my Z3 I used to own several years ago, and some basic maintenance, but that is about it. I've done quite a few jobs around the house (electrical, plumbing, etc.) and ran network wiring and camera systems in two offices so I know my way around tools, oh and I am REAL good at Googling and YouTubing.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/...a53b29ec_c.jpg
Here is my one-car garage where I will be building. It's a little tight, but I have 1/2 of the 2 car garage just across from this one to store my body and boxes of parts. Up to this point I've just been getting this work area ready.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/793/3...4e63ecf2_c.jpg
I had a large monitor and a Chrome Box at the office that were not being used so I mounted them on the wall over one of my workbenches and connected to my home WiFi - this should be very useful.

shark92651 03-17-2018 07:43 PM

Body Buck
 
Here is the body buck I built to store the body and boxes. I built this using the instructions in the PDF from Factory Five. It's in the two-car garage parked next to my wife's car.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/...ccbe31db_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4762/...38c774c5_c.jpg

shark92651 03-17-2018 07:45 PM

Tremec TKO 600
 
The first part I ordered and received was the Tremec TKO 600 Upgraded/Synchronized from Liberty Gears. It has the .62 5th gear, which I think is the best choice for highway cruising. Unfortunately Liberty Gears forgot to add milling off the tail housing to my work order as I requested. They apologized and offered to have me ship it back but that is just too much trouble, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn how to use my new Dewalt 11amp angle grinder.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/3...44ddc4ba_c.jpg

I marked it and started with a cutting wheel. I removed the guard otherwise it was just too hard to get in there. After a bit of cutting on both sides I whacked it with the hammer and it came right off.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4785/...5100a550_c.jpg

I then figured it would be good to practice with the grinding disc and the flap wheel since I will need to cut the rear spindles soon enough and make them pretty. Didn't turn out too bad. I made sure to cut plenty off as I read that a few people discovered they had to cut more off once they tried dropping in the motor and trans - I want to avoid that headache.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4779/...2b231f97_c.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/821/2...305a4732_c.jpg

shark92651 03-17-2018 07:46 PM

Parts are rolling in now
 
I got a few boxes in from Summit Racing today. Quicktime bellhousing, Moroso oil pan and pickup, Moroso radiator reservoir, air intake parts, Tilton hydraulic release bearing and master cylinder, and a few other items.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/3...2f3b7e3a_c.jpg

I bought the steel Quicktime bellhousing and also picked up a Summit universal driveshaft loop, at the recommendation of the instructors at Mott College. I think it's good insurance should something catastrophic happen on either side of the transmission. I'd kind of attached to most of my body parts and intend to keep it that way.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/4...3646ca5f_c.jpg

shark92651 03-17-2018 07:46 PM

Oil pan questions
 
Here is a pic of the oil pan. I notice it has a plug on either side and on each end, with one of the plugs missing. I assume the plug in the rear is the oil drain plug, what are the others for? I want to ditch the clock that comes with my vintage gauge kit and add an oil temperature gauge (yes I know probably unnecessary for my needs, but I want it anyway). Would I use one of these holes for the oil temp sender? Which hole should I use and what is the recommended sender unit for my application?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/3...9c528feb_c.jpg

Alan_C 03-17-2018 08:51 PM

Looks like you are off to a great start. Your shop is organized and you have a good plan for the build.

What generation of the Coyote are your FFR instructions for? I am building a Mustang restomod that I am putting a second generation Coyote into. If your manual is for a 2nd gen engine, would you mind sharing a PDF copy with me. I would like to use it as a reference guide. My controls pack kit will arrive the middle of next week and I would like to compare the Ford Performance instructions with those from FFR.

For what it is worth, I used Levittown Ford Part to source my controls pack, $150 less than Summit.

BTW, an appropriate sender for your gauges should be supplied by the vendor, however you will likely have to buy adapters for it to fit the Moroso pan.

PM me if you can share the Coyote install instructions.

Alan

shark92651 03-17-2018 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan_C (Post 5955585)
Looks like you are off to a great start. Your shop is organized and you have a good plan for the build.

What generation of the Coyote are your FFR instructions for? I am building a Mustang restomod that I am putting a second generation Coyote into. If your manual is for a 2nd gen engine, would you mind sharing a PDF copy with me. I would like to use it as a reference guide. My controls pack kit will arrive the middle of next week and I would like to compare the Ford Performance instructions with those from FFR.

For what it is worth, I used Levittown Ford Part to source my controls pack, $150 less than Summit.

BTW, an appropriate sender for your gauges should be supplied by the vendor, however you will likely have to buy adapters for it to fit the Moroso pan.

PM me if you can share the Coyote install instructions.

Alan

The latest Coyote instructions are dated 4/28/2017, nothing new for Gen3 yet. You can download it from here: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/

Thanks, I'll contact SpeedHut and discuss the sender with them.

shark92651 03-24-2018 01:34 AM

Looking over my transmission today and I read that some people ordered billet plugs for the mechanical speedometer. This is what I see on my TKO 600 from Liberty Gears. Do I need to order anything or did they already plug it?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/2...7d06a14a_c.jpg

Also, do I need to do anything with these plugs/wires or just leave them as is?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/2...2449f819_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/...7a10fc81_c.jpg

shark92651 03-24-2018 01:35 AM

Received my engine today
 
Also I received this today and got it into the garage and up on blocks. I won't be able to do much to it until I get my engine lift brackets (ordered from FFR, coming with my kit). I guess in the meantime I can read up on how to mount the oil pan and pickup and remove that oil cooler. I have the short oil filter adapter on the way from Tasco. Did I read correctly that the proper tools to remove the oil cooler is a 14mm allen and a breaker bar?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/815/3...6a87f205_c.jpg

Alan_C 03-24-2018 02:01 AM

Have you bought your controls pack kit yet? If not, I just received mine from Levittown Ford Parts this week. They are $150 less than Summit and other distributors with free shipping in the US. My Coyote is going in a Mustang and has the AT. It took about 6 weeks before it drop shipped directly from Ford Performance. Mike at Levittown kept me in the loop as I had two ship dates that were missed by FP. I highly recommend them for their prices and service.

Alan

shark92651 03-24-2018 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan_C (Post 5959426)
Have you bought your controls pack kit yet? If not, I just received mine from Levittown Ford Parts this week. They are $150 less than Summit and other distributors with free shipping in the US. My Coyote is going in a Mustang and has the AT. It took about 6 weeks before it drop shipped directly from Ford Performance. Mike at Levittown kept me in the loop as I had two ship dates that were missed by FP. I highly recommend them for their prices and service.

Alan

I did order it from Don Wood and was cheaper than Summit. It's backordered, along with my alternator, but they said should ship at end of month.

edwardb 03-24-2018 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shark92651 (Post 5959410)
Looking over my transmission today and I read that some people ordered billet plugs for the mechanical speedometer. This is what I see on my TKO 600 from Liberty Gears. Do I need to order anything or did they already plug it?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/2...7d06a14a_c.jpg

Also, do I need to do anything with these plugs/wires or just leave them as is?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/2...2449f819_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/...7a10fc81_c.jpg

The T-56 that I received for my Coupe build a few weeks ago had the same plug in the external speed control port. I checked it out, and it's a very substantial metal plug with an O-ring and bolt. Very different than the rubber shipping plug they used to put there which had to be replaced if you didn't install a speed sensor. It's every bit as good as the various billet pieces available. Nothing further to do IMO. Thank you Tremec.

The connection with the pigtails at the back is the neutral safety switch. Unless you're planning to wire something like that (most don't...) you don't need it. The clutch switches with your Coyote installation provide a very adequate safety setup if installed as instructed. On the TKO's I've installed, I just clipped off the leads at the base. If you're not comfortable doing that, tie off the lead so it doesn't dangle.

The connection with the plug on the RH side is the internal speed sensor. The Coyote PCM doesn't required a speed signal. If you have the GPS speedo, you don't need it there either. Your Ron Francis harness though has a pigtail and connection for there. On my Anniversary Roadster build, I went ahead and plugged in the RF connection just to cover the connector and keep the RF pigtail from dangling. The wires aren't connected to anything up at the dash. But they're available if ever needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shark92651 (Post 5959418)
Also I received this today and got it into the garage and up on blocks. I won't be able to do much to it until I get my engine lift brackets (ordered from FFR, coming with my kit). I guess in the meantime I can read up on how to mount the oil pan and pickup and remove that oil cooler. I have the short oil filter adapter on the way from Tasco. Did I read correctly that the proper tools to remove the oil cooler is a 14mm allen and a breaker bar?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/815/3...6a87f205_c.jpg

I don't remember the exact size, but it is a hex socket that is visible when you remove the oil filter. Same exact socket as in the short adapter you already have on hand.

shark92651 03-26-2018 02:51 AM

There is not a whole lot for me to work on while waiting for my kit to arrive, but I did take the flywheel off and put the blocking plate on behind it and re-torqued the flywheel bolts. Should I replace these? They seemed perfectly fine, no galling of any kind that I could see. This is probably not news to most, but in order to keep the flywheel from turning while removing/installing the bolts I used a couple of the pressure plate bolts and a pry bar between them. I wish I had my clutch to install but it is supposed to ship on Monday.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/2...676f6809_c.jpg

I went to a local Cobra Club meet on Saturday and when I got back my Wilwood brakes were waiting for me! I couldn't resist putting those together. I discovered that safety wiring is not one of my favorite tasks, but I managed to get through all four rotors. I'm glad that is over with. These brakes look awesome, I can't wait to bolt them in place!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/4...844c9b36_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4784/...a022b8fe_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/794/4...4251781f_c.jpg

One last minor update. I want to put a couple cup holders in my trans cover near the dash - mostly a place to hold my phone while charging it with a USB port I plan to hide below the dash, but also a place to hold small items or maybe even a drink, LOL! Anyway someone suggested these jumbo size stainless poker table cup holders. They are 4" wide from edge to edge of the lip with 3.5" width inside - perfect for my iPhone X. I wanted some rubber liners and I found these Nissan Armada cup holder liners on eBay and they are exactly 3.5" diameter and they fit like a glove!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/3...28683642_c.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rch_detailpage
The inserts I found on eBay - they are 2016-18 Nissan Armada Front Center Console Cup Holder Rubber Insert Liner

q4stix 03-26-2018 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shark92651 (Post 5960810)
There is not a whole lot for me to work on while waiting for my kit to arrive, but I did take the flywheel off and put the blocking plate on behind it and re-torqued the flywheel bolts. Should I replace these? T

Stock flywheel bolts are torque to yield, meaning they should be replaced. If you may be doing this a couple times, it may be worth going to ARP bolts but otherwise just getting new OEM ones will be more cost effective.

shark92651 03-27-2018 01:27 PM

Another question about the oil pan. I received this 20mm Moroso plug and I notice it has a wide head and a copper washer, similar to the drain plug that came on the pan. The other two plugs that came with the pan have no head and no washer, but appear to have what looks like anti-seize compound on the threads. Will both of these plugs work easily well at sealing without leaks or am I supposed to use some teflon tape or some other product on the threads of the plugs without a head?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/4...dea17090_c.jpg

edwardb 03-27-2018 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shark92651 (Post 5962218)
Another question about the oil pan. I received this 20mm Moroso plug and I notice it has a wide head and a copper washer, similar to the drain plug that came on the pan. The other two plugs that came with the pan have no head and no washer, but appear to have what looks like anti-seize compound on the threads. Will both of these plugs work easily well at sealing without leaks or am I supposed to use some teflon tape or some other product on the threads of the plugs without a head?

You're looking at two different thread types there. The two plugs with no head or washer (intended for optional supercharger drain back and oil temperature sender) are tapered 1/2-inch NPT threads. They should be tight after 4-5-6 turns. Standard practice on that type of thread to use a sealant or tape. For automotive use, I strongly recommend sealant. But that's a whole other discussion. Either will work in this application. The other two -- the drain plug and oil level sensor you pictured -- are straight cut threads and use a copper crush washer. No sealant required, although it's generally recommended to use a new crush washer each time it's removed.

shark92651 04-01-2018 01:13 PM

Hopefully my kit will be picked up this week, but no word on that yet. I didn't get a whole lot of work done this weekend because I couldn't get the engine on the stand. I couldn't source the grade 10.9 M10 x 1.5 x 100mm bolts locally so going to have to wait on a delivery from McMaster this week. I did manage to get a few things done, however.

As others have mentioned, I removed some material in the oil pan in the area that may cause interference with the dipstick. I used a rotary burr file on the angle grinder to get the bulk of the material off and finished it up with small sanding drums on the Dremel. Cleaning out all the bits of aluminum was a pain. I removed that top plate and then used hot water and Simple Green. I wiped it out with paper towels and then blew it out with my compressor. It took awhile but I finally got it all out.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/2...0094ce82_c.jpg

I got my clutch in this week and of course the dowels had to be swapped so I took the flywheel back off. I flipped it upside down and laid it across a couple 2x4's and drove out the old dowels with a 1/4" punch.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/4...1a26ac78_c.jpg

To drive the new dowels in I used a cool tip I saw on Youtube. I took a large bolt and I drilled a 1/4" hole into the head just deep enough to set the dowels slightly recessed into the flywheel. I also ground off the raised identification letters on the head of the bolt so that it wouldn't stamp them into the flywheel. I have no idea if that would actually happen, but didn't want to take a chance. I also left the dowels in the freezer overnight, just a touch of oil, used my homemade starter punch, and they drove in very easily. Flywheel is now installed with new flywheel bolts, properly torqued to 177 in/lbs + 60 degrees.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/806/4...3a4d9d8a_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/872/4...240d7603_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/2...d47bb21d_c.jpg

I borrowed lift brackets from a friend so I was finally able to get the engine off the pallet. I may have to shorten those chains when I am putting it in the car to get enough height out of it. I put the motor on the fixed engine cradle I bought from https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/ so that I could drain the oil. Of course I then realized I bought the wrong cradle. It works great for the stock oil pan but it isn't going to clear the Moroso pan. I emailed Kurt asking if I could exchange it, hopefully that won't be an issue. For those looking for an engine cradle, the price and quality is right at Stumpy's. The model you want for the Coyote and the Moroso pan is the MOD-PAW - "W" for Wide.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/3...f4f12e32_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/3...01f11383_c.jpg

shark92651 04-01-2018 01:14 PM

I can confirm that the tool you need to get that oil cooler off is a 14mm hex. It came off real easy with the proper bit and a ratchet.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/4...926f1e56_c.jpg


This is what a homer bucket of synthetic motor oil looks like. I bought a clean bucket and lid on my last trip to Home Depot so that I could save and reuse all this. Well I guess there isn't anything for me to do at this point until I get those bolts in and get the engine on the stand. Hopefully next update will be with the oil pan and pickup, clutch, bellhousing, Tilton hydraulic unit, and transmission all installed.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...2cfe55cd_c.jpg

shark92651 04-01-2018 05:53 PM

This is the sort of random thing my mind comes up with when I have nothing to work on. I was looking at the stand for the monitor I mounted on the wall. It's pretty thick 12 ga steel with a plastic cover and I got an idea. 30 minutes later after using a 1" hole saw on it and then opening it up a bit more with the Dremel, I now have a pretty decent transmission platform for my floor jack. This should prove useful for the rear diff and the gas tank.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/4...22ed4bbe_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/3...578f9fcc_c.jpg

shark92651 04-07-2018 02:08 AM

Oil pan and pickup swapped out
 
Well another week has gone by and no word of my kit being picked up :( I did manage to get the engine mounted to a stand I borrowed from a friend and got the oil pan and pickup swapped out. The pickup had a little surface rust on it so I cleaned it up with a Scotch Brite pad and then wiped it down with some motor oil. I'm glad to get this part done - I'm not a big fan of using this rotating engine stand, makes me a bit nervous. I'll be glad when it's back on the ground in the engine cradle.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/4...852758bc_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/4...996bd48b_c.jpg

Here is a shot of the adapter and the oil temp sender I purchased. Someone said there may be interference with the frame and this sender - anybody know if that is the case?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/4...0184ff86_c.jpg

shark92651 04-07-2018 03:37 PM

Alternator installed
 
I got my back-ordered alternator kit in yesterday so I went ahead and installed it. Pretty straightforward install, despite the lack of any real instructions other than a diagram with torque values.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/4...149a5265_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/2...ec48a9a3_c.jpg

The instructions don't address this pulley at all. I assume it could be used in place of the silver one on the tensioner. Any reason to use one over the other?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/4...66049a6c_c.jpg

shark92651 04-08-2018 06:03 PM

Oil pan and pickup - Take 2!
 
I guess it's more important to post about your failures than your successes so that others can benefit from the experience. That being said, as I was taking the box for my oil pan pickup to the recycle bin I found a small envelope with a large O-Ring in it! Oops, I'm guessing that is important, so everything is coming back off. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it gave me an opportunity to double-check the issue that Ducky2009 (from the other forum) was bringing up and he was 100% correct!

Here is the O-Ring I didn't notice the first time, so got that in place
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/3...3bb3942d_c.jpg

One quick look at the oil pan and it was obvious that the "slight interference" I was feeling was much bigger than I thought and exactly as Ducky described. Hopefully this will be useful to others, you can't just assume that what worked for others will work for you. You need to test this. It's as easy as putting the oil pan in place and installing a few bolts to hold it and then insert and remove your dipstick several times and the steel dipstick will easily scratch the aluminum to show you exactly where contact is happening.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/2...298688dd_c.jpg

A center punch and step drill made quick work of opening up this area for the dipstick. Cleaning out all the chips again is a pain, but two-steps forward and 1 step back seems to be my MO. Now that last inch of inserting the dipstick is completely smooth and I no longer hear any contact being made - problem solved!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/865/4...bd42e93a_c.jpg

You can see from this photo there is a rather large area that the dipstick can emerge from so easy to see that the path it takes can vary quite a bit depending on the engine, the pan, and how you choose to insert the dipstick.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/4...65a0b7e5_c.jpg

shark92651 04-14-2018 08:37 PM

Powertrain mostly assembled
 
Well another week has gone buy and my kit is still sitting in the warehouse at FFR :( Jolene at Stewart Transport implied that my kit may get picked up next week, but she didn't actually commit so fingers crossed. I did receive the correct wide engine cradle from stumpysfabworks so I was able to get the Coyote off the engine stand and get some work done on my powertrain.

Cleaned the flywheel and clutch plates very well with brake cleaner and acetone and got the clutch installed with the alignment tool and properly torqued down.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/813/4...bedae6cf_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/2...8f23eb2b_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/2...2f4e1b00_c.jpg

Next I got the bellhousing installed and torqued down to the backer plate and the block.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/888/4...f4059002_c.jpg

I then was able to setup and install my Tilton release bearing. It's a fairly simple process that requires measuring with calipers and a straight edge from the face of the bellhousing to where the bearing makes contact with the diaphragm spring fingers. You then subtract .125 for an air gap. In my case that came out to 3.84". You then turn the threaded adjustment sleeve on the release bearing until you set that distance from the front of the bearing to the face of the transmission where the bellhousing is mounted. You then remove one of the transmission bearing bolts and replace it with the supplied threaded guide rod which prevents the HRB from rotating.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/2...6ae3c4f6_c.jpg

If the guide rod extends beyond the face of the bearing you are supposed to cut it down to avoid interference. In my case it did not, but I cut it down anyway because I'm afraid there could be possible contact with the centrifugal weights on the Centerforce clutch and that would be bad. You just need enough rod to prevent rotation.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/822/2...57882205_c.jpg

shark92651 04-14-2018 08:38 PM

That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.

UPDATE: Just to clarify, the correct bolts are Grade 10.9 Flanged Head M10-1.5 x 30mm. The official part from Quick Time is RM-170 but a little pricey. I just picked up some bolts at my local hardware store. The threads on my bellhousing were a little jacked so I chased them with a tap and all is good now.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/4...84c9c0fa_c.jpg

edwardb 04-14-2018 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shark92651 (Post 5976066)
That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.

Records I have show M10x1.5 mm thread, class 10.9 (high strength). Good hardware store should have them.

Too bad to hear about the delivery issues. Has to hurt...

shark92651 04-15-2018 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edwardb (Post 5976114)
Records I have show M10x1.5 mm thread, class 10.9 (high strength). Good hardware store should have them.

Too bad to hear about the delivery issues. Has to hurt...

I have some 10.9 M10x1.5 that were used for the engine stand to block that I tried. They thread in about 2-3 turns then bind up, I don't want to force them in. Does this no matter which side I thread them from on the bellhousing. Maybe the threads are bad but from a company like QuickTime I find that hard to believe. I'll give them a call on Monday. I may have to chase them with a tap.

Yeah, waiting up to my promised pickup date was tough. Waiting another 3 weeks after that date (so far) is agonizing.

edwardb 04-15-2018 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shark92651 (Post 5976314)
I have some 10.9 M10x1.5 that were used for the engine stand to block that I tried. They thread in about 2-3 turns then bind up, I don't want to force them in. Does this no matter which side I thread them from on the bellhousing. Maybe the threads are bad but from a company like QuickTime I find that hard to believe. I'll give them a call on Monday. I may have to chase them with a tap.

They should go in from either side. No difference there. 2-3 turns is maybe a lot if not the right size/pitch. Agree they may need to be chased, but hasn't been my experience with QuickTime products. Agree they are typically first rate. Probably best to call QuickTime. In absence of any other information.

shark92651 04-15-2018 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edwardb (Post 5976338)
They should go in from either side. No difference there. 2-3 turns is maybe a lot if not the right size/pitch. Agree they may need to be chased, but hasn't been my experience with QuickTime products. Agree they are typically first rate. Probably best to call QuickTime. In absence of any other information.

Yeah you were right Paul. I picked up some bolts at the local hardware store and chased the holes with a tap. All good now.

shark92651 04-15-2018 05:59 PM

Here is a shot from inside the bellhousing after trans installed. It's a bit hard to make out but you can see the 1/8" clearance between bearing and fingers and looks to be no interference issues at all. Cool :cool:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/792/4...ec655bab_c.jpg

shark92651 04-16-2018 01:41 AM

And just for completeness, here is a pic of the installed starter.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/4...abfc704d_c.jpg


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