Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Page 7 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #181 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 01:45 PM
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Well that's a bummer. What year is your mustang?
My Mustang is a 1970 Mach 1. The build is a full restomod with 2nd Gen Coyote and 6R80 AT. I used a 2017 GT bought at auction as a donor. I am into the plumbing phase now. The coolant recovery tank is becoming problematic as I do not have at much room between the engine and radiator as there is in the GT. A solution will be found even if it means having a custom part made. If you are interested here is a link to my build thread.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...mod-build.html


MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.

New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.

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post #182 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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My Mustang is a 1970 Mach 1. The build is a full restomod with 2nd Gen Coyote and 6R80 AT. I used a 2017 GT bought at auction as a donor. I am into the plumbing phase now. The coolant recovery tank is becoming problematic as I do not have at much room between the engine and radiator as there is in the GT. A solution will be found even if it means having a custom part made. If you are interested here is a link to my build thread.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/b...mod-build.html
I skimmed through your build - impressive. Looks like you are doing a great job!


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post #183 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 12:23 AM
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I skimmed through your build - impressive. Looks like you are doing a great job!
Thank you, I appreciate it that you took a look. I am trying to build a quality car for me and the future owner when the day comes.

Not to get to far off track, I got measurements for the coolant recovery tank used on the 2004 Mustang as well and evaluating the Moroso tank for the current Mustangs, neither is going to come close to fitting. I have found that Canton has a custom fabrication option, I believe I am going that route. The mod motors use a coolant recovery tank that is 4 qts in size, quite large. I have designed a rectangular tank that will have a capacity of 3 1/2 qts, should be enough. I am going to submit the design to Canton on Monday. It will be interesting to see what the quote for the tank will be. I am hoping it will only be 2x of their off the shelf designs.

MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.

New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.

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post #184 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Removable trans cover mounted

Today I finally finished the mounting of the removable trans cover. I first aligned the side bars on the cover and clamped into place and then drilled some 1/8" holes through the cover, then opened up to 3/16". I then put the cover in place and drilled 3/16" holes through the side aluminum and frame rails. I used some of my 3/16" clecos to hold everything straight and square as I drilled




Next I removed the cover and opened the holes up to 5/16" for the rivnuts. I used a 1/2" drill bit on top of that to shave down the lizard skin around the aluminum to make sure the rivnuts seat tight against the metal and compress properly.




I decided to go ahead and install my shift boot as well. I disassembled the top of my shifter so that I could slip the boot over it. I laid out the shift boot the way I wanted it to sit, stretched it out and pressed small nails into each rivnut where I need to install a screw. I then used one of the cheap Harbor Freight hole punches I bought to punch out a hole in each location.




And here is what it looks like so far. I am still undecided how to finish the side bars. At first I was planing to paint/powder coat them black but now I am leaning towards polishing them. I think I will switch to stainless oval head screws as well. What do you guys think, powder or polish?

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post #185 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 03:08 PM
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I like the look of the shiny metal ... my vote is polish. Whatís your method for polish?


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post #186 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Roll bars installed

Today I got the dual Breeze stainless roll bars and trim rings mounted. It was a bit of a struggle to get the stub tubes on the rear legs into place but I finally manged to get them both on, along with the trim rings.






I also got my license plate light/bracket mounted, just need to run the wiring through the trunk and wire it up. I was thinking of using a couple small spade connectors so that it can be easily removed for painting. I also learned that it's normal for the hump to be off center from the pre-cut holes for the trunk latch


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post #187 of 223 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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I like the look of the shiny metal ... my vote is polish. Whatís your method for polish?
I've never actually done it myself, I paid pros to polish my roll bars. I did a little research and I was thinking of some 2000 grit sandpaper and then some Flitz with a mini Flitz ball on my drill.

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post #188 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Windshield mounted

This afternoon I got the windshield installed with the help of my son. It was not without incident, as usual. I manage to strip one of the threaded holes in the brass insert on the drivers side. It certainly doesn't take much to strip it, it seems I was barely turning it and none of them seem to fit very tight - gaps at the top. I guess I will go ahead and pester Whitby's to fill my order and I'll have the painter swap them out for the SS inserts when he has to pull the windshield back off. From the advice I received in my other thread, I measured down 13" from the bottom screw hole and marked the side bars and then cut the excess off at a 45 degree angle with my angle grinder. Once I got enough of the openings in the body opened up for the windshield to fit properly, measuring 27" from the top of the body above doors to the top screw, I reached in and marked the holes. I pulled it back out again, center punched them, and used a series of drill bits to get it up to the 27/64 bit and then tapped the holes to 1/2" - 13. When I installed the bolts I found that the drivers side was flush to the body mount but there was a small gap on the passenger side, and I used a couple 1/2" washers (about 1/8" thick) as spacers and then tightened everything down. I still need to square and clean up the windshield rubber and get the trim rings mounted, but otherwise I am done with this for now.




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post #189 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Radiator aluminum installed

This morning I got my front radiator aluminum installed as well. I bought the piece from Mike at replicaparts.com and also the top piece from Breeze Automotive. I had the large radiator piece powder coated a satin black several months ago along with some other parts, while the Breeze piece comes already powder coated. After some careful measuring it seemed that the front aluminum was going to be just a bit too tight. I briefly though about changing the angle of the radiator, but I decided that just trimming the aluminum would be a lot easier. I removed the bulb seal from the inside edge, marked it with tape and trimmed about 1/2" off the bottom and sides, tapering to the point at the top where the piece is riveted into place.




Here is a shot from inside showing the seal of the top aluminum piece. I put a piece of bulb seal on it and it seals it up quite nicely.




Because I have already (roughly) mounted the hood, I could not get to all the rivet holes I had drilled earlier before I installed the body. I did manage to get 3 rivets installed on each side, which will hold it just fine for now, and I will ask the painter to install the last few rivets when he has the hood and body off for paint.


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post #190 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Doors mounted

Yesterday I got both of the doors fitted and the latches installed. For now I am using stacks of washers and standard hex nuts on the plungers. Later, I plan to dress that up with some spacers cut to length and some cap nuts.




I did have a bit of a time getting the driver's side door mounted. I started another thread in the Roadster forum and posted quite a few pics there. I got some great advice and was able to get the door hung fairly well. No need to repeat that info so I'll just link to that thread here: Need advice on fitting the @#$!$ drivers side door and latch

I ended up using the laser cut spacer on the driver's side and also had to elongate the slot in the striker plate by about 1/8". The passenger side was a breeze to install in comparison. No spacer was needed so in order to allow clearance for the carriage bolt mod on the latches, I marked the fiberglass and then opened up the existing hole with a drum sander. Here is the "before photo" (I forgot to take an after, but you get the idea).






I installed the check straps as well. The manual calls for rivets but I prefer making things removable if possible. I want to pull these back off later to dye them black anyway. I used 10-32 SS bolts and nylon locknuts to mount to the door hinge and I drilled/tapped the 2x2 frame rails for the same 10-32 SS bolts.




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post #191 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk mounted

Next up was the trunk and I got it mostly done this morning. Like most of the body panels, it ain't perfect but it closes and latches tight. I'm hoping my painter pro can straighten up all the gaps for me.






The lip on the body at the bottom of the trunk was not cut very straight so I spent a fair bit of time sanding that until it was even all the way across. I then went ahead and mounted the bulb seal and the catch. That paper in my trunk is the template I created for cutting out the carpet. I decided to just leave it in place as a protector so that the carpet won't get too dirty during all the body work.


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post #192 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Side pipes mounted

Yesterday I got both of my side pipe holes opened up and the pipes mounted. Since I chose the factory hole cutout option, I already had a hole there that followed the shape of the template in the manual so I decided it was best to stick with that basic shape. I rested the side pipes on my jack with a moving blanket underneath to protect it and put it into position. On the driver's side I could tell right away I needed to cut out quite a bit more on top and towards the rear. I couldn't even get close to putting the top bolt in. I printed and cut out the paper template from the manual and used that as a guide. I marked it short of where the final hole needed to be and taped the template in place. I had to mark the top and side, and then move the template to alight the other vertical, and finish marking it. I made the long straight cuts with my dremel, cutting diagonals near the corners. I then shaped the corners with a drum sander on my drill and then test fitted the pipe again. I had to do this about 3 times on each side in order to get to the final shape. I ended up with about 1/2" on the sides and about 3/4" on the top.

Here are a couple shots of the driver's Side. This pipe seems to be hanging perfectly to me. It is fairly parallel to the body and the ground. At first I was concerned because the top bolt was extended beyond the cutout and it would most certainly hit the body when the engine moves. I then remembered I hadn't put my splash guard back in place. Once I put that back in, the bolt head clears the body so that will not be an issue any more.






Here is the passenger side. I measured this side and found that it hung down about 3/4" lower, and the tip extends out about 1 3/4" further than the DS. I loosened all four bolts and lifted the tip of the pipe, rotating it against the bolts, and then held that position with my jack and re-tightened all of the bolts. After doing this, the height is now perfect so I think I can get by with a single wedge spacer to bring the tip in 1.5".


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post #193 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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License plate light wiring

Last night I also finished up the wiring for the license plate light. I searched the forums to see how others routed the wiring and this is the position I ended up with. I like this spot because it is close to where I brought the wire loom up through the trunk floor and I can just zip-tie it to the hinge to keep it neat. You can shine a bright flashlight through the fiberglass to see where the metal plate is to make sure you can avoid it. I had some left over grommets from my wiring and found one that slipped over the wire loom and used that to determine what size hole to drill. My grommets don't work very well on the thick fiberglass so I kind of cut slits on the back of it and shoved it in the best I could. I'll try to find a more suitable grommet and replace this one after paint.

I pulled a single wire out of some Romex home wiring cable I had on hand and used that to fish from the hole I drilled up to the trunk opening. This wire is stiff enough to fish easily, yet flexes better than a coat hanger would. I found that it only needed to go about 1/2 way up the hood before it found an opening and then arched over to the hole.




I used a couple of those "license bolt" LEDs in my modified license plate holder so I twisted the leads together and put a bit of heat-shrink on each to keep them together. I used some of the small spade connectors on each so that they can be easily removed for paint or bulb replacement.




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post #194 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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Seats installed

Today I got the seats secured. I am using the Breeze seat brackets which provide a little bit of recline and adjust-ability, although I doubt I will ever move them from the rear most position. The lower bracket is riveted to the floor and frame members using 1/8" and 3/16" rivets, depending on whether you are drilling into a frame member or just the aluminum floor.




I also used the supplied boards which are supposed to give a bit more thigh support and prevent the foam from pressing down between the seat frame rails. The instructions called for the board to extend 3 1/2" beyond the front frame rail, but I found that was not going to work with my leather seats. I don't know if it is because the way the leather wraps on the sides prevents the board from moving forward or what, but I ended up setting it at 2". I sprayed the boards with a water seal product as the instructions recommended, and I had to drill a hole to allow me to pass my seat heater wires through.




It's nice to have the seats finally secured. I'm about ready to take my first ride with the body on.


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post #195 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 05:08 PM
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Today I got the seats secured. I am using the Breeze seat brackets which provide a little bit of recline and adjust-ability, although I doubt I will ever move them from the rear most position. The lower bracket is riveted to the floor and frame members using 1/8" and 3/16" rivets, depending on whether you are drilling into a frame member or just the aluminum floor.









I also used the supplied boards which are supposed to give a bit more thigh support and prevent the foam from pressing down between the seat frame rails. The instructions called for the board to extend 3 1/2" beyond the front frame rail, but I found that was not going to work with my leather seats. I don't know if it is because the way the leather wraps on the sides prevents the board from moving forward or what, but I ended up setting it at 2". I sprayed the boards with a water seal product as the instructions recommended, and I had to drill a hole to allow me to pass my seat heater wires through.









It's nice to have the seats finally secured. I'm about ready to take my first ride with the body on.





Thatís looking sharp. Excited for you. Great process!


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Tremec TKO500
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post #196 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thatís looking sharp. Excited for you. Great process!


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Thanks, feels great to be so close to the finish, at least with everything I can do before paint and body work.

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post #197 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Side pipe wedge installed

I ordered a side-pipe adjustment wedge from Breeze last week and it came in this weekend so I went ahead and installed it. I bought the 1-1/2" wedge and another gasket. This worked great to bring the passenger side pipe in and parallel to the body. The driver's and passenger sides are within 1/4" of each other now. In order to get the nuts to engage I needed slightly longer bolts so I picked up some 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" stainless socket head bolts at Lowes.







I went ahead and installed the front splash guards on both sides now that the pipes are in place. I made the splash guards removable with some 10-32 rivnuts on the F-panels. I still need to make some tabs to lock them down to the body at the bottom since I had to trim them quite a bit to fit the way I like.


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post #198 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Wind wings, sun visors, and mirrors installed

I also got the wind wings, sun visors, and mirrors installed today. When I first started researching for my build I decided I wanted all these options. The wind wing mounted side-view mirrors and the windshield mounted rear-view mirror with the bracket from Dark Water Customs were recommended by several as providing superior visibility to the stock mirrors and location on the body. Besides, there are a few less holes to put in the body and I really like they way they look.

The wind wings were pretty easy to assemble and install on the windshield side bars. The sun visors had me a little concerned as the brass is easy to strip and I read that the screws can bottom out on the glass. I test fitted all the screws with the brackets and it did not feel to me like anything was bottoming out. I installed the screws until I could just feel some resistance, just snug. In each case the bracket felt secure so I felt pretty good about it. I then removed the screws one at a time and put a little blue loctite on each one and reinstalled.




The rear-view bracket from Dark Water was a completely different story, however. At first I tried to use the supplied hex nuts but I just could not get them to hold securely. At first I tried using the end of a small screwdriver to keep the nut from turning while tightening, but that didn't work very well and the bracket was still loose. Also, the supplied screws were bottoming out on the metal inside the windshield frame. I took a look at EdwardB's thread and saw that he used some rectangular nut plates to install his. I have some 8-32 nut plates left over from my hood latch installation so I cut those down and drilled/tapped them to 5mm - .80 to match the supplied screws. I used my dremel to cut off both sides of the nut plates and my grinder with a flap disk. I had to take some material off the top and bottom, and also reduce the thickness to get it to slide into the frame. I also had to take a bit off the length of the screws to keep them from bottoming out. It sure is a lot of work to have to make your own nuts



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post #199 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 10:19 PM
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Did you have any plans to dye the leather door straps? Seeing the way it looks with the factory color, I will be ordering the same color media Paul used, and treating the door straps and seat Belt leather.


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Tremec TKO500
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
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post #200 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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Did you have any plans to dye the leather door straps? Seeing the way it looks with the factory color, I will be ordering the same color media Paul used, and treating the door straps and seat Belt leather.


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Yes I plan to dye them black. There is a leather store not far from here called Tandy Leather and I will swing by some time and see what they have. I would prefer black with a matte or satin finish if I can find something like that.

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post #201 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 04:39 AM
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Yes I plan to dye them black. There is a leather store not far from here called Tandy Leather and I will swing by some time and see what they have. I would prefer black with a matte or satin finish if I can find something like that.
I used Kiwi liquid black shoe polish, the leather absorbed the polish and left a mate finish. The hard part was trying to get the polish into the loops at the ends of the straps. I took care of that with a fine paint brush to work the polish in to the loops. Not high tech, but it worked.

MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.

New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.

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post #202 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:04 AM
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Another option is to go the vinegroon route like my friend Brent:



https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ck-straps.html

Cheers,
Jeff

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post #203 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Another option is to go the vinegroon route like my friend Brent:



https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ck-straps.html

Cheers,
Jeff
That's pretty cool, and cheap - I think I may have all the ingredients already. I will try this method.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Vin...k-Leather-Dye/
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Anti-sub belts

I pulled my seats again to install the anti-submarine belt (should have planned ahead and done this when I riveted in the seat bracket). I drilled a 1/2" hole through the bottom seat bracket and through the floor and attached with the supplied hardware. Hopefully the next time I pull the seats will be after paint when I am installing the carpet.


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Side pipe hangers mod

When I tried to install my side pipe hangers I could tell there was a problem. This is the PS pipe after I installed a wedge spacer to bring the pipe in 1 1/2". I still need to bring the tip in another 1/2" to match the DS, but even so you can see that the hanger is a bit high, nearly touching the body, and a bit too far to the outboard. The DS actually made contact with the body and I need to allow for some movement. I don't know if this is an issue with the way my engine is sitting in the mounts, or just the combination of parts I am using or what, but I didn't not want to mess with the engine or mounts so the fix would have to be with the hanger itself.




The fix I decided on was to make a small extension bracket to bring the hangers down and in to the proper position. I brought home a piece of Kydex plastic from work and used that to make a template. I bolted it to the pipe tab and just held the hanger up to it in the best position and marked it for holes. I then shaped it and used the template to transfer the outline to a piece of 2" x 3/16" steel bar I picked up at Home Depot. I then powder coated them gray. I would have preferred silver but I had the gray on hand and this will not be very visible anyway. I ended up with a basically triangular shape as I will only use a single bolt on the pipe tab in order to allow movement - from reading the forums this seemed to be a common recommendation to prevent cracking around the tab.




For mounting the rubber hanger and the pivot, I went with 5/16-18" rivnuts to work with the supplied hardware. I didn't want to through bolt into the floor and I had picked these up at the start of the build just for this purpose anyway.




And here is the DS installed. It allows 1/2" clearance between the body and the top of the hanger. I also installed a stainless washer between the bracket and the tab to facilitate movement. I'll install the PS after I get that last 1/2" wedge installed.


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post #206 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 05:42 PM
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That's pretty cool, and cheap - I think I may have all the ingredients already. I will try this method.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Vin...k-Leather-Dye/


That looks great, I think Iíll be using that method.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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post #207 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:47 PM
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Looks good!

Just so you know---it is not uncommon for the body to pipe relationship to change during the bodywork/final fitting stage which often results in needing to use a different wedge and moving the hanger's pivot point. Don't be shocked to find that a bit of rework may in your future.

Jeff

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post #208 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Looks good!

Just so you know---it is not uncommon for the body to pipe relationship to change during the bodywork/final fitting stage which often results in needing to use a different wedge and moving the hanger's pivot point. Don't be shocked to find that a bit of rework may in your future.

Jeff
I would be shocked if I didn't have to do something twice in this build

Last edited by shark92651; 08-26-2019 at 01:56 PM.
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post #209 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 02:36 PM
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I would be shocked if I didn't have to do something twice in this build


Jeff

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post #210 of 223 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Vinegaroon chemistry lesson

Thanks to a tip from Jeff Kleiner, I made up some Vinegaroon and turned my check straps black tonight. Vinegaroon is basically just vinegar with dissolved/rusted steel wool in it. It causes a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather that turns it black. Unlike dye it will not rub off and it doesn't change the color of the threads so it makes for a cool look. Literally took 30 seconds to do and no stained fingers.






https://www.instructables.com/id/Vin...k-Leather-Dye/
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