Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Page 6 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #151 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Nicely done. I agree with you that the trunk, as you have completed it, looks much better. I like the materials you selected, as well as the execution; it really looks first rate!

To be frank, the quality of the trunk carpet install matches the rest of your build. Nicely done, with great attention to detail, and to a high degree of fit and finish!

I know you must be stoked to be this close to paint and body work. Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve
Thanks I really appreciate the comments. Yes I am pretty stoked to be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.


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post #152 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Herculiner undercoating

Today I "worked from home" for awhile and then got to work on my build. It's amazing how much work you can get done when you don't show up for work

Today's main project was to get the Herculiner undercoating on the body. I am going on vacation next week and would really like to get the body back on before I leave. I masked off all the openings and used 2" masking tape around the wheel well openings and 1" around the louver and side pipe openings at the request of Kleiner. This look OK to you Jeff?



I started with a brush around all the small openings and areas that are hard to roll and then rolled on a coat, waiting a couple hours, and rolled on a second. Here is the finished product.






Earlier in the week I installed the adhesive mount studs for my louvers. I used Bondo glass reinforced filler on them - not the easiest stuff to work with. I learned real quick not to use too much hardener, which I did my first attempt, but they are really on there well now.




I also went ahead and brushed some Herculiner on the underside of my trans tunnel cover to protect the Lizard Skin heat and sound that I applied on there rather liberally.



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post #153 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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After a bit of research I decided to pick up a JLT catch can. According to what I read the passenger side gets the most benefit for this on the Gen2 Coyote so that is what I bought. This was probably the simplest project on the entire car so far. Took all of 30 seconds to install.

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post #154 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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Trunk is complete

I finished up the sides and back of the trunk tonight so here is a pic of the entire completed trunk. I spent more time on this than I thought I would, especially for the rear where it probably won't be seen but I figured if I was going to cover it I better finish it now before the body is on.

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post #155 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 04:17 PM
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I'm kind of all over the place with projects on the car right now, I guess all of them are important and have to be done at some point anyway. First up is I finished putting the first two pieces of carpet into the car this morning. I'm probably not going to do any more in the cockpit until after paint to avoid making my painter's life difficult, or getting my carpet too messy. The two pieces in the back of the footbox are probably the most difficult pieces to install because it's hard to get back there and you have to run them behind some frame tubes - especially the drivers side. I decided not to cut the pieces in two, just some slight trimming, and managed to get them in place. I used outdoor carpet glue and put them in one section at a time. I started with the back section, applied the glue with a small spatula and then a small plastic 1/8" trowel to get the adhesive the right height. I press those into place and let it setup over night, then applied some more glue on the outside sections of the driver's footbox, behind the round tube, then pulled the carpet through. It's a very tight fit and I ended up using some pliers to grip the carpet and pull it. I then applied the glue on the sides, in front of the tube, and in the dead pedal cutout, and pressed it all into place. I did manage to get a little glue on the tubes and a small bit on the face of the carpet, but like Paul mentions in his thread, a little paint thinner/mineral spirits cleaned it right up. You definitely need to have the paint thinner or mineral spirits on hand before you start this job if you use this type of adhesive. You need it to clean the tools as well.






I also installed the rear brackets for the trunk support kit I picked up from Mike at replicaparts.com. I figure like the carpet I installed earlier, this will be a LOT easier before the body is in place.




Next up I bought a cheap 1x4 at Home Depot and cut it to size and traced around the oil cooler and brake duct openings. I drew a dashed line around my trace to account for the thickness of the fiberglass, then cut them out with my jig saw. I thought this would be good to make a form for the hex brake mesh I have left over from the radiator. After a bit of trimming, bending, and forming around the block I then took it over to the body and did my best to bend and form it to fit the opening. It didn't turn out too bad for a first attempt but I think I will start over and leave a bit more material around the edges to give the silicon more material to grip when I install them after paint. When you look at the shape of the block I traced it becomes very apparent just how asymmetrical these cutouts on the body are (or maybe I just suck at tracing a hole with a sharpie).







Do you have the rest of that hex-grate material that you used for the radiator? Id be interested in buying that from you.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
5.0L Coyote Engine (Gen2)
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2015 Mustang IRS
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18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
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post #156 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have the rest of that hex-grate material that you used for the radiator? Id be interested in buying that from you.


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I sold a piece to someone to cover their radiator, so I don't have enough for that, but I do have enough left over to cover the oil cooler and brake duct openings. Send me a PM if you are interested in it.
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post #157 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:33 PM
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I sold a piece to someone to cover their radiator, so I don't have enough for that, but I do have enough left over to cover the oil cooler and brake duct openings. Send me a PM if you are interested in it.


Do you have part numbers and where you bought that from?


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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Tremec (?) Undecided
2015 Mustang IRS
Wilwood Brakes
18" Halibrand w/BFG Rival S
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post #158 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have part numbers and where you bought that from?
I bought it here: https://www.customcargrills.com/prod...?prod=Perf-Hex

The problem is that to get a piece large enough to cover the radiator, you have to buy the 24x60 piece, which is large enough to do 2 roadsters.
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post #159 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Roll bars polished

I got my roll bars and LeMans gas cap back from the metal polisher this afternoon - they turned out real nice. My friend did a great job on the welds.



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post #160 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Body is back on

This morning my brother and a friend came over and we got the body back on, hopefully for the last time (by me at least). I did my best to make sure it is aligned but the description in the manual about how to check if it is in proper orientation is a little confusing to me. The quick jack bolts are in front and rear, the brackets that attach to the front of the frame and behind the turn signals are in place and making contact with the body. The hood opening seems basically centered on the top frame rails. One thing I notice is that the drivers side door hinge makes slight contact with the body, maybe about 1/8" overlap. The passenger side has about 3/16" of a gap at the same spot. Here are a few pics of these references. Does this look OK, do I need to shift the drivers side of the body slightly forward to clear, or is this just a matter of adjusting the hinge position? Are there any key reference points I should look at?

Driver side door rear




Passenger side door rear




Driver side door hinge




Passenger side door hinge











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Last edited by shark92651; 06-15-2019 at 05:09 PM.
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post #161 of 162 (permalink) Old Today, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to be away from the garage for about 2 weeks for vacation (I would rather spend it IN the garage, but my wife has other plans) so this will be my last update for a bit. I didn't got a lot more done this weekend, but at least I got the body in a good position and did get a few items taken care of.

Since I had to remove the wheels to check the body position, I decided to go ahead and bolt on a few items in the front. I installed the lights and routed the cables in such a way that the area behind the brake ducts is fairly clear. One of the weatherpacks on the passenger side was being difficult and a pin got mangled, so I had to pull it out and put on another one. I have another in the rear that seems to have the same issue. Not that difficult to fix, if you have the terminal extractor tool, but still a pain.




I went ahead and installed the front overriders. These were easy, the ones in the rear are going to have to be drilled out and installed with a nut behind the plate since I used the coupling nut and threaded rod modification back there.




I installed the louvers to check the fitment. I did have to adjust a couple of the brackets so that the louver fits flush against the body. This side doesn't look too bad, but the cutout doesn't look very straight to me, the passenger side is a bit worse. FFR didn't do a very good job cutting these out and I was constrained to fit around the holes they cut. There is still enough room to straighten these up and still have the top and bottom edge of the louvers slightly recessed behind the opening. I will ask the painter to clean these up for me.



I installed the top cover on the DS footbox. Because of the body being in place I could not get a tool to one of the nutserts - you can barely see it to the left of the top screws. It's not that visible but I am thinking of installing a screw by hand and leave a small gap, and then notch that hole on the cover so that I can slip it under the head and then screw down all the others. We will see how OCD I am feeling next time I look at it


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post #162 of 162 (permalink) Old Today, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Cooler Lights installed

I know I said I was done until after vacation, but I can't help myself. I finished up my oil cooler lights. I swear I am going to go start packing and stay out of the garage from here on out

My original plan was to mount them to the bottom radiator support, but I just could not get it to fit without interference with my radiator aluminum, or exerting way more effort than I was willing to. So I went with plan B. I modified my brackets so that it will bolt to the bottom of the fiberglass under the oil cooler opening. It will be so low and far back the bolt heads will be well hidden. Here is the finished assembly after powder coat. I used some inexpensive 3" motorcycle LED lights I found on Amazon, along with 2 relays and weather packs. I wired them so that the round "halo" ring will illuminate when the ignition is on and will be daytime running lights. A flip of the switch I put on the dash will turn on the main fog lights in the center.




Installed




I went ahead and slipped my perforated hex screen in place to see what it will look like when complete. I think it turned out pretty nice, not too shabby for the $50 I put into it.


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