Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Page 5 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #121 of 128 (permalink) Old 11-18-2018, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Go Carting

This weekend I took the car out for a couple go cart rides around the neighborhood. Unfortunately I was home alone so no video but here are a couple pics of the car in current go cart phase. Everything seems OK with the car but there is a little clutch chatter when releasing clutch in 1st and reverse. Is this normal at this stage with a brand new clutch and high-torque motor in such a light car? It's not bad and driving technique can mitigate it a bit. I hope it will go away or become minimal once the clutch and flywheel settle in.





Before co-carting I used the "string method" to get a rough alignment all around. The wheels are pretty much parallel at this point and haven't tried to set camber or caster other than the rough measurements on the upper control arm found in the manual.



I mounted the Breeze seat mounts to the seat frames. I rattle-canned them black first and bolted the seat heater relay under the seat mount. The Breeze seat mount provides plenty of clearance for the harness. The bottom bracket hasn't been bolted down yet, waiting to get the body on first, but it seems I will have a very difficult time attaching the nuts on the posts in the rear. Any tips on that?





I also mounted my Crow camlock racking harnesses. For the inside bolt I followed the instructions in the manual and drilled a 1/2" hole through the tab and the trans tunnel aluminum. I bought some 1/2-13 x 2" bolts at HD because the supplied bolts were a little short at this location. I used some fender washers on the inside of the aluminum to help distribute the load and placed a couple washers between the tab and the aluminum to fill the gap.



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post #122 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Major setback

Well I officially have a major setback. Seems I have a problem with my Tilton hydraulic release bearing and I am afraid the transmission has to come out to repair/replace it. After successfully completing my first go cart ride I had an issue the next time I took it out right before Thanksgiving. The hydraulic release bearing would not retract and I barely got the car back into the driveway. The issue didn't happen right away and I drove it a few miles without issue, but the next weekend on another go cart ride I would release the clutch pedal and the transmission would not engage. Eventually it engaged and I was able to get it home and in the driveway, but could not get it to move after that and had to push it into the garage and wait until after my Thanksgiving trip back home to take a look at it. The bearing was extended what looks to be about 5/8" which I believe is within spec but it would not retract. I ended up bleeding some fluid from the circuit and pushed on it a bit with a long screw driver and it retracted. I then re-bled the system and reset my clutch stop hoping the issue was that it wasn't set quite right. After testing that it was moving in and out I fired up the engine and put it into gear and it did the same thing, it would not retract and engage the clutch. This time when I took a look into the bellhousing I could see a little hydraulic fluid dripping off the HRB. Damn. I guess it's either defective or I somehow damaged it by overextending it, although I am not certain that I did because I was pretty careful in the initial setup of the gap and the setting of the clutch stop. I did have to adjust the clutch stop a bit more as it was initially grinding a bit to get it into Reverse, so maybe I did overextend it, I don't now for sure.

So am I going to have to pull the engine or is it possible to drop the transmission in a Coyote/TKO configuration without pulling the engine?


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post #123 of 128 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Pulled the trans, now how to fix?

Well I finally got the time and motivation to pull my transmission out. I bought a universal transmission tailshaft plug to keep the fluid from spilling out and cut down the unused side to give me a bit more room to move the transmission rearward. I removed the driveshaft safety loop and driveshaft, then inserted the plug and sealed it up with some duct tape. I also removed the shifter plate and sealed that up as well. Then I disconnected the flex hydraulic line and caught the fluid in an oil tray. I wrapped the line from the release bearing in a zip-lock and rubber banded it to avoid any further mess. Then it was a matter of removing all the bolts from the transmission mount and the transmission support. I put my floor jack under the trans and lifted it slightly to pull out the transmission support. Then I removed the four bolts holding the trans to the bell housing. My son worked the floor jack from the rear of the vehicle while I was underneath on the creeper. It was a process of carefully pulling the transmission rearward until the input shaft cleared the bellhousing. Then we slowly lowered the front of the trans until the shaft cleared the outside of the bellhousing. The trans was tilted quite a bit with the rear of the trans resting on the frame cross-member with a rag underneath for protection. Eventually it was clear. It was a job, but not as awful as I imagined it would be.















Now that it's out I have to decide what to do next. I'm not exactly sure if the problem was due to faulty installation or what. Tilton support even asked me if I removed the powder coating from the front of the bellhousing, as if a slight cant could have caused the issue with the slave not being able to retract. If the Tilton has such a narrow window between proper setup/operation and total failure, count me out How difficult would it be for me to switch to an external slave such as the Forte kit at this point? Can I install it and set it up without having to pull the bellhousing and put my transmission back in place using the reverse of the procedure I used to pull it out?

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post #124 of 128 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch Fork Install

Well I'm finally getting back to my build and hopefully I can get the hydraulic clutch swapped over to the external slave type without too much effort. I am really trying to get the pivot bolt and the fork/bearing in without having to pull the bell housing. I put a second nut on the bolt and using it as a jam nut I am able to adjust it easily with a wrench. The problem is, I have no idea what I am doing here. How do I know how far in/out the pivot needs to be and if the fork is adjusted properly? If I remove the bearing, I am able to slip the fork in and then attach the bearing. Here are a couple shots and a video. Any advice on how to know if I have it adjusted properly? Thanks for any help.






Here is a video showing how much movement is in the fork at this time. How should I adjust this?

Video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/5SNmvz8TSCo

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post #125 of 128 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well with some help from forum members and reviewing some pics in other threads, I got the pivot ball adjusted and locked down. I put a thin bit of Lucas Red N Tacky in all the right spots and got the fork and bearing reinstalled. This weekend I plan to get the transmission back in with the Forte clutch unit. I'm glad to finally be back on the project and hope to regain the momentum I lost at the end of last year.


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post #126 of 128 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission is back in

This morning my son came over and we managed to get the transmission back in without too much trouble. I got the transmission frame, the support and spacer, and the drive shaft all buttoned up. Just need to get the driveshaft safety loop back in place and the gear shift plate on the top. A builder friend had a spare Forte hydraulic kit that he gave me - gotta love the FFR community! However it seems the bracket is the wrong one. He said this was for a small block with the TKO and I have the Coyote/TKO combo. Hopefully all I need to do is get a new bracket. Does anybody know if this is the case?




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post #127 of 128 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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A few weeks ago one of my employees asked me what color I was planning to paint the car and I told him either Ford Ruby Red like my truck or a silver, but leaning towards the Ruby Red. Look what showed up in the mail for me today! This is all hand drawn - he has some serious skills! I picked up a frame on the way home from work and have it hanging up in on my garage wall now.

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post #128 of 128 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Trans tunnel cover fabrication

I completed most of the fabrication of my trans tunnel cover today. I am going to cover it with the same pad and leather as my dash. The cup holders are 3.5” poker table cup holders with rubber inserts from a Nissan Armada. They are wide enough to hold my phone, and I have USB chargers just above in my dash center support. I used 3M panel adhesive and countersunk rivets to add a 2nd piece of aluminum underneath for extra rigidity and to hold the patch around the shifter opening. I plan to make it removable through the use of rivnuts on the 1” tubing and some 3/4” aluminum strips on the side with countersunk holes and flat head screws.






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