Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Page 4 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #91 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk inner panels

I fabricated a couple of inner panels for the upper trunk this morning. I just took some measurements and then transferred to some poster board and then to aluminum. Took a bit of checking and trimming but finally got them to fit the way I like. It seems so much more finished with these, I'm surprised FFR doesn't include them in the kit.






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post #92 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Lizard Skin sound control sprayed

I spent several hours on Sunday masking and preparing for Lizard Skin. I scuffed all the panels in the cockpit and trunk with some 150 grit sandpaper and then masked everything off. This is a lot of work and I am still just over 1/2 done since I need to also mask again and spray the ceramic insulation, but at least that is cockpit only.

Here you can see most of the masking in the cockpit



I bought a few plastic drop cloths and taped them along the edges and tied some string loops in the corners so I could hook them onto my shelves and quickly bring them down to allow me to move around to spray and protect from different directions. I managed not to get it all over the garage, which is good.



Here are the results after I pulled the masking. I should have let it set up for another hour before I started pulling the masking tape, but I didn't want the edges to pull up if it was to hard. As it is, I smudged it in a few places as it was still very wet. Oh well, I have to spray the heat product next and it's all going to be buried under carpet in the end anyway.








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post #93 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Lizard Skin complete

I re-masked the cockpit and sprayed the ceramic insulation yesterday. I'm glad to have this done and can pull wires through and bolts things in place for the last time.






After pulling all the masking and pulling the harnesses back through.



I also ran a wiring harness for the wiper motor, ran the engine senders harness, and attached a fitting for the stainless PTFE fuel line. I'll cut and put the fitting on the other end once I have the motor in place. Speaking of the motor, looks like I am very close to dropping that in place.


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post #94 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-15-2018, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Pressure bleeder

After bleeding my brakes the old fashion way a while back, I still had some air in my rear circuit. The rear MC would move about 4x as much as my fronts. I bought an extra cap for my reservoir and collected the parts I needed at Home Depot to make a pressure bleeder. Here are the parts I used and the finished product.





I set the compressor at 15psi and re-bled the rear brakes. Wow, what a difference. Now I have a nice hard pedal with equal movement in both the front and rear MC. I wish I had just done this from the beginning. Super easy and was done in 5 mins.

Video: https://youtu.be/c1EaOHv8UN8

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post #95 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-15-2018, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Cut bottom flange off QuickTime bell housing

As others had advised, I went ahead and cut off the bottom flange of my QuickTime bell housing and backer plate. I figure it would be a LOT easier to do it now while it is still out of the car. I removed the trans and hoisted the engine up and rested it on top of my Black and Decker WorkMate (with the hoist still handling most of the weight) and cut it off with the angle grinder. I cleaned it up with a flap disk and then touched it up with some of the leftover POR-15 that has been in the bottom of my fridge since May - it's still good!




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post #96 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-16-2018, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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DS footbox top installed

Nothing too exciting today but I got my DS footbox top panel in place, with removable access panel. I had to get my hydraulic reservoir out of the way to get in there so I made a little support out of a piece of aluminum so it's kind of just hanging out in space there. I guess I'll just leave it there until I get the motor installed.


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post #97 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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PCV and CMCV plumbing

I knocked out a few more tasks on the Coyote in preparation to dropping it in next week.

I ordered the kit from JLT to run the DS PCV hose to the intake and got that installed.





Thanks to help from forum members and a detailed thread that EdwardB started, I got my CMCV system properly plumbed. The CMVC system gets it's vacuum from a reservoir at the rear of the intake. On the 2017 Coyote, there is a single vacuum hose on the PS that is the vacuum source for that reservoir. This normally connects to the stock air intake with a 3/8" quick-detach shown here.



A good vacuum source to connect this to already exists to the right and above the throttle body, but it is a 1/2" connection. I decided to just cut off the plastic hose with the quick-detach right at that plastic hose barb and just plumb it with 3/8" hose and a barbed 3/8" to 1/2" fitting. The JLT kit for the PCV included a short length of 3/8" hose, so I used that, and I bought a 1/2" short molded cooling hose with a 90 degree bend on Amazon to hook this all up.

Eldon James C8-6BN Automotive Black Nylon Reduction Coupler, 1/2" Hose Barb to 3/8" Hose Barb
Dayco 80393 Molded Coolant Hose




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post #98 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Tachometer wire

I also got my tachometer wire ready to go. I tapped into a DS coil trigger wire to feed the Tachometer, as detailed in EdwardB's thread. I purchased a spade crimping kit on Amazon as I needed that for other wiring as well. I used a short wire lead and crimped a spade connector on each end, stripped a small amount of insulation off the trigger wire, and then crimped the spade connector onto that. I wrapped it all up and zip-tied it so that it is secure.






I purchased this inexpensive Necygoo Crimping Tools kit on Amazon as I needed it to wire other things anyway, like the wiper motor. This is my first time using this type of crimper and it works very well.


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post #99 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Dash test-fit and issue with Russ Thompson turn signal

Today I test-fitted my completed dash for the first time. For my hidden fasteners I used some aluminum angle on the back and put rivnuts on the bottom of the dash hoop in 4 places. Once the dash was covered in pad and leather, and the Russ Thompson trim ring put in place, of course it caused the dash to move a little on me so the holes in my brackets didn't quite line up anymore. I just opened them up a bit with a rat-tail file in the correct direction and was able to get the bolts screwed in easily enough. The last thing I want to do is have one of those bolts bind up and spin a rivnut!



I then test-fitted the Russ Thompson turn signal unit and I think I have a problem. Russ had to modify his mounting system to get it to work with the latest changes to the MK4 frame and he mentioned that there could be an issue and that I may need a longer tube, which he can machine for me. Looks like I am going to have to bring this post to his attention and take him up on his offer. It was probably fine before I added the pad, leather, and trim ring but now it looks like I need about a 3/8" longer tube to get it to work properly. The set screw that secures the hub to the tube is barely making contact with the main tube.

The whole hub kind of comes out at an angle from the dash, but I think that is normal for these cars.



Here you can see that turn turned down end of the tube is about 1/4" from the dash aluminum.



And here you can see the biggest issue that the set screw is not making good contact with the tube in it's current mounting location and length.


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post #100 of 223 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Coyote installed, clearance is super tight

I got the powertrain installed today with the help of a few friends. Clearance is super-tight on the drivers side, maybe 3/32" and I don't think it is enough. There is plenty on the PS. Someone on Facebook suggesting removing the 1/2" spacer from the PS motor mount, and lengthening the slots on the DS motor mount so that the motor will drop down and slide a bit over to the PS, while keeping the headers level. Is this the best solution? Any other ideas?



Passenger Side clearance



Drivers Side clearance






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post #101 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission scare - resolved!

After dropping my engine in last weekend I had a bit of a scare with the transmission when I could not get it to go into any gear. I could move the shifter over to the left but could not put it into either 1st or 2nd. I could not move it to the right for 5th or R at all! Rookie mistake that I did not attach the shifter and run it through all the gears prior to assembly, but it turned out to be a common issue that was easily corrected. Apparently it's pretty easy for the shift lugs to get knocked out of whack when a transmission is shipped to you. The fix is pretty simple. You just remove the middle plate and use a screw driver or pry bar to pop the "lugs" back into place so that they are all three pretty much at the same position in the middle. Once you do this you should be able to shift into all gears and then you just need to clean up and make a new gasket with RTV and then replace the cover.

Position of the lugs after I removed the cover:



Correct position for neutral and that allows shifting:



Here is a link to the TKO realignment procedure:
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...r-tcet4615.pdf
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post #102 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Oil temp sender

I decided to trade in the clock that comes with the vintage gauge set for an oil temp gauge instead. Probably not needed, but I just didn't want or care for the clock. Once I got the motor in place I discovered that there wasn't enough room between the oil pan and the frame rail to use the sender that came with the gauge. I could get the adapter and the sender in place, but then could not physically attach the plug. The fix was to use the "universal" single-wire sender (shown on the left in the photo) Speedhut G-SNDR-14. I believe this will just find ground through the engine ground, but I won't know for sure until I have my dash in place and can test it.


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post #103 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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More wiring

I've started the process of hooking up the wiring, dieting and re-configuring the wiring harnesses. Here is the bottom clutch switch from the Coyote harness. When I took a look inside the harness I found that a ground that was a few feet away from this switch was actually terminated at this switch. I shortened it and re-routed it so that it was close to the switch, and then grounded it along with the RF ground that goes inside the pedal box at this location.



I ran the senders harness across the top of the DS of the motor and re-routed the alternator power wire and the tachometer signal wire through the same harness.

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Here is what it looks like after I re-wrapped the harness and attached the tachometer wire. You can see another wire loom to the right where I split off and send the oil temp sender wire to the PS of the engine.




Here is the other end of the senders harness. You can see the attached alternator power wire, the oil psi and water temp senders connected here.


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and more wiring

I got quite a bit more done today. Here you can see I am closely following the EdwardB supplemental instructions for Coyote powered MK4 roadsters. I brought the power in from the switched side of the battery cutoff and attached to the right-side of the Blue Sea bus bar. I shortened and re-routed the 8ga battery feed and ignition switch lines and attached them to the bus bar as well. Off the left side of the bus bar I run power through a 150A mega fuse and then run the alternator power wire out the senders harness and to the alternator. Right now I have a zip tie holding the main part of the harness up to get it off of the steering column - I plan to come up with a more permanent solution to this soon. I really don't like the idea of the wiring harness rubbing against the steering column.



Here is how the engine plugs and harnesses are routed from the engine to the computer.



I ran the Coyote harness leg with the MAF and Alternator plugs across and around the back of the engine, and then down the front. I zip-tied all the harnesses together to keep things neat. I also finished up my stainless PTFE fuel line and connected it to the fuel rail



Here is the plug for the alternator. I also zip-tied the IC Pump plug here to keep it out of the way. You can see the 02 sensor plug hanging loose here. I am going to have to order another of the longer O2 sensors assemblies as one of them is just too short to use without having it making contact with the header. At $50 they aren't exactly cheap.



I hooked up the oil temp sender wire on the PS.



I connected the starter wire and the battery feed. I didn't seem to have any nuts for those posts so had to go to Home Depot to pick them up. I wasn't sure of the size but eventually figured it out. They are M8-1.5 and M6-1.0.



I couldn't resist popping on the engine cover to make sure all the harnesses are out of the way and to see how it looks. Pretty cool!

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Power steering lines

I connected my KRC power steering lines and put a coupler on them to keep them neat. Now I can re-mount my radiator/fan assembly, hopefully for the last time. Next major project is getting the cooling system plumbing and expansion tank mounted and in place.


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post #106 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch filled and bled

I got the 2nd long O2 sensor in this week and installed that on the DS.

[/url]

Last night I finished hooking up the clutch line, filled and bled the system. Here is a shot looking down from the upper-inside wall of the DS footbox where the line comes out. I purchased a 24" Allstar flex line and it was the perfect length to meet up with the line attached to the Tilton hydraulic release bearing. I did have to buy a fitting to connect the two because what came with the line was the wrong size. I needed a 3-AN male to 4-AN male fitting which I picked up on eBay. I wish I had mounted the line to the 3/4" tube with a tube clamp prior to dropping the motor in. I thought I could get in there with my right-angle drill but it's just too tight, so I just used a zip-tie.



Here is a shot from underneath when I was bleeding it. I used my pressure cap again and it literally took less than 30 seconds to bleed the clutch. I just need to set the clutch stop now to prevent over-travel. Tilton recommends that you put the trans in gear and have someone attempt to turn a rear wheel while you slowly depress the clutch. Once the clutch is released, you add 1/4" of more pedal travel and then set your clutch stop there.


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post #107 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Moroso coolant expansion tank mounted

Today I finished up the cooling system. I used the same Moroso tank as Edwardb and others have used. In order to mount the tank I cut and bend some 1" x 1/8" steel flat bar around the 3/4" tube that the radiator is mounted to. I had my friend weld up the cuts where I bent it and also put a support piece across the bottom to add rigidity. I tapped 1/4-20 holes to mount the tank to it. On the front I used 3/16" rivets to mount the bracket to the tube. I thought I could just through-bolt it but there just isn't enough room without interference with the flange on the tank.



For a support on the bottom I decided to use a 3/4" thick piece of Delrin plastic that I had at work. I measured the angle on the top of the fan shroud and the distance to the bottom of the tank. After a bit of trial and error with a template I was able to cut the Delrin and then mount it to the tab on the bottom of the tank with a self-tapping screw. It rests perfectly on the top of the fan shroud now



Here is a shot of the mounted tank with all the hoses connected.


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post #108 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Lower radiator hose fabrication

I purchased a Dayco 71713 radiator hose and a Jegs 90 degree SS tube #679-MB1040. I found that the connection on the bottom of my radiator points upward while others point downward. I was still able to fabricate the hose but used a different section of the 71713 hose and went over the anti-sway bar rather than under. I used the hose that came with the Coyote for connecting to the engine. After a good bit of trial and error, trimming of hoses, and cutting of the SS tube I was able to get it to fit like a glove.

The Dayco 71713 before cutting.



Finished product with T-bolt clamps and salvaged braided loom



Connection to the radiator



Connection to the engine



And the SS tube crosses the "X" tube at 90 degrees so I will be able to secure it here using the Breeze mounting bracket #70612 which I have on order, just zip-tied it for now.


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The rest of the cooling hoses

Here are a few shots of the rest of the cooling system hoses. The only stock hose that I was able to use without any modification is the one that goes to the bottom of the expansion tank. The upper radiator hose is the hose for an F-150, which fits better than the Mustang hose, after the end is cut at the sharp bend. One issue I notice is that the edge of the quick-connect fitting is making slight contact with the wider pulley that was installed with the KRC power steering system. Has anybody else seen this and know of a fix?



The stock coolant bypass hose that attaches to the back of the tank is too short so I went to Autozone and picked up a 3/8" coolant hose for $2.99. The engine side of this connection is 1/4" but the tank side is 3/8" so I also picked up a 1/4 to 3/8" fitting and some hose clamps while I was there. I cut off all but about 8" of the stock hose and connected the two.



Here is the overflow hose connected to the side of the radiator. I had to remove the pepcock and put on a 90 degree barb fitting and trim just a bit off the end of the hose. Many thanks to Edwardb for writing such a great tutorial on this part of the build. He also has a complete list of part #'s used so be sure to check out his thread if you are going to be plumbing your system this way.


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Minor update

Just a minor update of a couple items I got done this week. First I got the cooling system filled. I poured in just short of 4 gallons of the Ford orange coolant and distilled water mix at 50/50. No issues at all with trapped air with the way the system is plumbed.

I received the padded clamp and secured the SS tube of my bottom radiator hose to the "X" tube.



I bought a wiring plug for the wiper motor and got that installed. This weekend I hope to make some good progress on the rest of the wiring as I am really working towards that first start now.


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post #111 of 223 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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still more wiring

Progress continues on the wiring, slow and steady hoping not to screw anything up. I've kind of given up on it looking very neat in here. I just want everything to work and not be a fire hazard! I've got the Coyote pigtail wires wired up except for the HAAT which I intend to use on the Speedo so that it always has power to reduce GPS startup time. I also connected the front, rear, and sender harnesses.

I covered my under dash supports in leather and got them installed. I put LED live well lights in the supports over the DS and PS footboxes.




My center support has a USB charger, 12V adapter, dimmer switches, and 3.5mm stereo jacks that I am going to wire to plugs that will go into the tach and fuel gauge in case I ever have to reprogram those. I can just plug in the extra programming button that I purchased from Speedhut. The second dimmer switch is for a PWM dimmer I am trying to make for my LED indicator lights - the jury is still out on how well that will work but I will post details when I am done with it. Those aluminum angle pieces I riveted in place will hold a "riser board" that I am going to make for the Russ Thompson wiring.




Here is a shot from underneat showing the leather covering. Should be nice to feel the leather under here when accessing the dimmers or plugs.




This is the PS where you can see I have another footwell light, OBD2 port, inertia switch, and wiper harness.


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Seat Heaters

Last night I installed the seat heater pads in my leather roadster seats. Nothing that hasn't been done many times before but I included a few shots that show the details in case anyone finds it useful. Please enjoy the soothing pink background in these shots as well - I did this on my daughters tumbling mat for comfort The bottom seat cover is pretty easy to remove because the glue they use or their technique sucks. I'm sure it will be a LOT more secure when I reglue this with the Weldwood Landau I used on the dash. On the bottom cushion I ran the pad all the way across the curve on the front and it fits perfectly without trimming. I cut a groove the dept of an X-Acto blade about half way down the bottom between supports of the seat frame. The foam is thickest in this area so no concern with cutting here for me. I shoved the wire harness into the groove.









For the back I removed the two c-clips and pulled it away. I didn't try to actually remove the leather since there are a couple hog clips in there I didn't want to mess with. Once you pull the material up there is enough room to get your arm all the way back in there so complete removal is not necessary. I shoved the pad up in there and smoothed it out. I then peeled back the adhesive a few inches on each side at the bottom and press it down. Reaching in I just removed the tape strip a little at a time, smoothing it down as I went, until I had it all the way at the top. It was pretty simple.




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Russ Thompson turn signal wiring

Tonight I mostly completed the wiring for the Russ Thompson turn signal unit. I followed his schematic for the “flash to pass” functionality on the stalk button. This seems more complicated than it should be but apparently it works well. I mounted it on a “riser board” that I will mount on my center under dash support. Once I figure out what length I need on all those leads I will cut them down and crimp on the appropriate spade connectors to hook to all the wire in the dash harness. and then try to bundle up these wires the best I can.



UPDATE:
After working on attaching the dash harness and all the wiring for the gauges, I was able to trim down the bulk of the RT wiring just a bit. I switched most of the wires to 18ga, but used 16ga for the relay wires and the high/low beam wires. I cut the wires down to the optimal length where it will sit on my center dash support and reach the appropriate wires on the dash harness. I put spade connectors on everything and made leads that run up to the RT turn signal unit. It now looks like this.



Here is approximately where it will sit behind the dash when installed.


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PWM dimmer for LED dash lights

I bought these 12mm LED indicator lights on Amazon for Left turn, right turn, high beam, and MIL. They are super bright so I really wanted to find a way to dim them and I came up with a solution that was fairly inexpensive, although not very elegant.



I found this PWM LED dimmer unit on Amazon for around $7. It has 2 leads for input, 2 leads for output, and a pot for adjusting the output. I tested it with my LEDs and it works fine.



The only problem is that it only works for a single channel and I need three (decided no need to dim the MIL as always bright and annoying is probably a good thing for that light). I tried to find a multi-channel PWM dimmer but didn't find anything like I need with three separate outputs controlled by a single knob so I decided to just buy two more units and wire them in parallel using a single pot to control all three. This is what I ended up with. I mounted the knob underneath my center dash support next to the gauges dimmer. I bought a kit so that I could crimp JST plugs on all the wires so I could easily swap out a unit should it go bad. I mounted the boards to a piece of Kydex plastic and I will just stick this on top of the Russ Thompson wiring using a Velcro pad. It's a bit bulky since it requires two pair or wires for each LED but is workable.



And finally a shot of my mostly complete dash wiring. I still need to cut and cap the speed sensor wires and clock/speedo memory wires since those aren't going to be used. I am going to use the HAAT wire from the Coyote pigtail to power the Speedo. I also wired the Speedo left/right/high lights in addition to my 12mm dash LEDs. I guess redundant indicators is going to be OK since the Speedo isn't going to be directly in my line of sight with the competition dash layout I used.


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Seat heater wiring

I modified, extended, and ran the seat heater wiring harnesses through the transmission tunnel. I bought some 4-pin wiring plugs similar to the existing plugs on the harness to extend the wires for the switches, and also ran the power wires in the same wire loom, through the upper DS inside footbox wall where my rear harness comes in, and over to the center of the firewall.




Here is where the harness plugs and relay will sit under the Breeze seat brackets I picked up this week. I plan to bolt the harness down to the bottom seat plate once I figure out a good way to do that.


MK4 Coyote Roadster #9327
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post #116 of 223 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Glove box disaster

I noticed about a week ago that my glove box was split and broken around three different screw posts on the dash! I think this happened from the dash flexing a bit when I was test-fitting it to the hoop. The plastic seems rather brittle around the flange and I needed to come up with a repair. I decided to cut a "ring" out of aluminum and JB Weld it to the flange and epoxy the shattered bits in as well as I could. So far I think the repair is going to be OK but was not happy with this problem in the least. In hindsight I think I should have just fabricated a glove box from sheet metal.





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Dash in place, and things are working!

Well today was a good day as I got all the wires connected, dash installed, and everything seems to be working!

I propped the dash up on a couple boxes and got it as close to the hoop as I could to hook everything up. It looks like a total birds next in there but at least everything worked. I had one issue with the RT push button going to high beams but not back to low. After a few tries though it started working, I assume was just an issue with the new relay. I really hope it doesn't go bad on me as the thought of pulling the dash back off feels me with dread.



Here it is once I got everything in place and fastened the dash to the hoop. I probably could have gotten it a little cleaner in there but probably not much. I'm just happy everything is working.



A view from the front.



Here is a shot from underneath with the headlight switch turned all the way to the left to light my footwell lights. I need to pick up some wide finishing washers or something, preferably in black, to attach my dash supports.



The lights work, at least the ones I hooked up so far. Hazards flash, turn signals blink, etc... The LED modules I bought for the flasher even have an old school audible click, although they click like 1 extra time after turning them off, which I find a little weird.



After the glove box repair it's all good now. I also installed a USB port in the glove box that is always hot. I figure this will be handy if I ever want to lock my phone in the glove box for charging while I'm away from the vehicle.



I programmed the fuel gauge so it is showing dead empty. I just want to double check a few more things and then I think it's time to put a little fuel in the tank and see if this beast will fire up

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post #118 of 223 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission spacer and driveshaft safety loop

Today I installed a 3/4" aluminum spacer to correct the pinion angle and to get the driveshaft off the cross frame member. I picked up a piece of 3/4" x 1.25" 6061 aluminum at Metals Supermarket in Plano and they even cut it down to the 7" length I needed and then I curved the ends using my reciprocating saw and angle grinder with flap disk.



Here is a shot of it installed from the rear near the driveshaft.



I went ahead and mounted the Metco driveshaft safety loop as well. I had also cut 3/4" spacers to raise the loop but it turns out I didn't need them as there is plenty of clearance at the top of the loop.


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Added Thermo-Tec and mounted side pipes

After seeing how close the DS header was to the footbox I decided to add some Thermo-Tec adhesive-backed heat barrier to the front side of my footboxes. In order to get this into place with so little room between the header and aluminum I removed the plastic backing from the middle of the sheet and sprayed a little Windex on it. I was then able to slide it into position and align it from the middle and then pulled the rest of the backing out and pressed it into place. When the Windex dries it will adhere in the middle. I have used this technique to apply vinyl graphics on vehicles before and it works well.



I went ahead and mounted my stainless side pipes and wheels as well. It's starting to look like a car. If all goes as planned, I will have my first start tomorrow.


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First start!

I had a successful first start today. At first it refused to turn over but then I remembered that I had unplugged the clutch safety switch when I was adjusting it. After plugging it back in it fired right up. Oil pressure and temp look good. Engine fan turned on at around 165 degrees or so but the engine itself never got over 190 at idle after running for about 10 minutes. I had a fuel leak at the rear where the flex line meets the hard line but I tightened it down a bit more and that corrected it. I want to do a rough alignment before I take it go carting, but I couldn't be happier right now!

Video: Factory Five MK4 Coyote First Start

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