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After having a new tune built for the Aluminator XS and logging dyno time I began driving the heck out the car over the spring and early summer months. The tune just wasn't quite right down at low RPM, especially at tip-in and tip-out conditions at no load. Clearly more power with this engine but the driveability characteristics just weren't as gentlemanly as my stock coyote motor. So back to the tuner I went for some more tweaks. We were able to improve it but still not quite right. I then pondered going back again to try and get more tuning done but began to think maybe it's time to start tuning this thing myself as the inconvenience to take it to someone continues to mount. I began looking into SCT's Advantage III Pro Racer tuning software since I was setup with the SCT tuner and tune already.
Enter David Borden... David says he's thinking of considering ditching the stock PCM in favor of AEM's Infinity ECU. Not knowing much about their product, I began my research and ultimately decided to ditch the SCT route and Ford PCM and go full hog. Fast forward and we are both sitting in tuning class down at AEM's headquarters (safety in numbers right?). After the whirlwind 2-day tuning training class and product purchases made, on to the install of the new ECU.
What sold me on the Infinity setup was the fact the hardware and software was manufactured and supported by one company. No locked tables, no mystery areas of the ECU, no reverse engineering. Everything is above board. Coupled with a one stop shop to help the likes of a sorry wannabe tuner like me. Couple this with some of the product features that I was really interested in, like Traction Control, and the user-friendly approach of their tuning software interface with the use of wizards, and I was hooked.
The physical install itself, while involved, went without a hitch. I took the opportunity to install tone rings on the rear IRS axles along with wheel speed sensors front and back. I also had to convert the VSS Analog VR signal from the Tremec TKO to a digital signal for the Vehicle Speed input to the ECU (Thank you Dakota Digital), wired in inputs for a 12-position traction control switch as well as some other inputs for engine protection strategies and some other features. Wired in the fuel pump to be controlled by the Infinity ECU. Done with that and it was time to start tuning.
What is really cool about the Infinity ECU is that AEM provides a base tune file for the stock Coyote motor. You basically start with a conservatively safe tune that will run your engine and can then tweak it from there. My problem was that the Aluminator XS uses larger heads and cams along with larger throttle body and fuel injectors. This would need to be compensated for in the tune. The great guys at AEM took my throttle body (Ford Racing Corbrajet Twin 65mm) and one of my fuel injectors (47 lb.) and characterized them for me on their equipment. This gave me the data I needed to build out the modifications to the base tune file.
It was time to start the engine. At this point David Borden was about 1 week ahead of where I was on mine. He had already successfully started, idled and test drove his without much of any issues. The engine started right up with not a lick of problems. However, there were immediate idling issues. Idle would range from over 2,000 RPM down to 400 RPM. The engine would just begin to oscillate as the idle feeback would work overtime to correct the oscillations. Until I could get the idle tuned properly there would be no driving it. With hours and hours of tuning on just the idle with lot's of phone and email support from AEM (those guys have been absolutely fantastic), I still have yet to get the idle working properly. All the issues have been focused on the drive-by-wire tuning. Particularly, we determined that there was some stiction in the throttle body down at just off idle at around 1-2% throttle position. Ultimately, I changed out the throttle body and went to the Super Cobrajet Monoblade TB. Still unsuccessful although through tuning the PIDs and the DBW Bias tables I was able to get the idle within a range of 600 RPM to 1300 RPM using idle feedback to control the idle. Still not acceptable though.
Both of these throttle bodies flow about 1600 CFM (twin) and 1800 CFM (mono). The stock Coyote TB flows about 900 CFM. Since upgrading to the Aluminator XS with the Cobrajet Intake and TB, I've never had nearly as good of idle characteristics as the Boss IM and Accufab 84.5 mm throttle body (1200 CFM). So my current theory is that the Throttle Body is just too large for the N/A application to reasonably expect low-end driveability. The slightest movement of the throttle plate causes a large run up or run down in engine speed as it takes in or restricts such a mass volume of air.
To test this theory I have ditched the CobraJet intake and throttle body for now in favor of the Boss intake with Accufab throttle body. Just finishing up the install now and should be back to tuning it this weekend. Assuming this fixes the problem I'll hit the road for some data logs and begin working the tuning out for the VE map, ignition, cam timing, and decel. Hopefully be back on the road soon.
Last edited by TMScrogins; 07-28-2017 at 04:17 PM. Reason: also installed and tuned on other engines besides the Coyote
Great write up as you and David are leading the charge for the next guy(s) doing the Infinity set up.
I just started working on all the regular electrical wiring and not yet close to installing the Infinity much less doing the first start, so I'm looking forward to your next post (Like a good book after the cliff hanger!)
Thanks for your very informative write ups and keep them coming.
I have a truck project sitting here that I'm considering dropping in a 5.0 (Coyote) out of an F150. Rather than mess with the PATS / VATS stuff I think the AEM system might be the right choice. I'm assuming that the truck engine would have the same sort of differences that your aluminator has over the coyote crate motor so your tuning challenges and solutions are probably going to be a big help to me at some point.
FFR2100 - 331 With Kenne Bell 1500 Blower. T5 and 8.8 w\' 3.08\'s. Best ET 11.71 @ 117
I'm glad to hear you guys are going down this same path. It would be great if there were larger numbers of us so that we could better help support each other. Since you both are headed down this same path and venturing your way into AEM's Infinity (and beyond) I figured I would add another post with some details outlining some more of my trials and hiccups since there seems to be interest on these Infinity threads.
Some have inquired about installing a MIL/Check Engine Light to trigger when a code is thrown using the Coyote Controls Pack. From my inquiry and research with Ford Racing, there doesn't seem to be any output trigger to run a MIL. With the Infinity you can do that. In fact, I wired a light and then programmed it to light solid if any of the sensors themselves (oil pressure, MAP, IAT, Coolant temp, fuel pressure, etc.) fail. Then I programmed the same light to flash (to get my attention more than a solid light condition) if an engine protection strategy is triggered.
The Infinity can employ several engine protection strategies. To be sure you can use all of them it will require installing or changing out some of the sensors. The ECU can utilize the Coyote's existing head/coolant temperature sensor and intake air temperature sensor (part of the MAF). To fully benefit from the ECU you should consider installing a fuel pressure sensor (and gauge if you want, I did). The oil pressure sensor that came with my Speedhut Vintage gauge set uses a resistance style sensor. This needs to be swapped out for a transducer style (3-wire) sensor to work with the ECU. I installed a 150 psi sensor and had Speedhut convert my oil pressure gauge from the Factory Five resistive style gauge to the compatible transducer referenced voltage style. I had them also change the gauge face and recalibrate to 150 psi since these Coyote motors will climb a tick above 100 psi especially when cold. This is important if running a MIL as my gauge/sensor would peg at 100 and cause a sensor error that would trip the light. With all the sensors functioning, I setup the Engine Protection so that if the engine overheats or loses oil pressure the engine will cut fuel, spark, reduce RPM and ultimately shut the engine down before any damage occurs. I also have protection setup for lean conditions too. Saul, you could also setup overboost protection since your engine is blown.
With this ECU it uses MAP (Speed Density) instead of MAF for air/fuel calculations. So with this setup it is imperative that there are no vacuum leaks. Per David's recommendation I decided to follow his lead and abandon the PCV setup. This decision was also helped by the fact that I had the JLT Oil Separator on the passenger side and it definitely works but I was still getting some oil into the intake. I ditched the PCV in favor of engine breathers and only have my fuel regulator and MAP sensor plumbed to vacuum ports on the intake manifold.
When I started setting up my tune and went to sync my ignition with the ECU to be sure the ECU was perfectly calibrated to the ignition I realized for the first time that these engines have no timing marks on the crank pulley or the timing cover. None! I was fairly confident from my inquiry with AEM that the ignition would be very close to what the ECU was reporting but without going through and actually syncing/calibrating the engine I would not know for sure if it was dead on. I fabricated a timing mark plate to bolt to the timing cover temporarily, then found TDC on #1 cylinder, then etched/marked a line on the crank dampener. Also, there are no external plug wires to hook up a timing light. I had to make a plug wire extension to the coil pack for the #1 cylinder to be able to fire the timing light. With that done, I locked the timing out at 10 degrees BTDC and then was able to put a timing light on it and found that I was 1/2 degree off. I was now able to perfectly sync the ECU to the ignition timing.
I was able to get the recommended WOT cam timing specs from Ford Racing for my larger cams. I used this data sheet to build out my cam timing profile in the tune since the base tune provided by AEM was geared for stock cams.
This is probably worth mentioning so you don't end up wasting an extra day on trying to figure out why your PC won't connect to the ECU. AEM offers a 10 ft. USB 2.0 compatible weatherproof sealed connector cable. Rather than having to pop the hood and connect the cable to the ECU each time I want to tune or PC data log I used this 10ft cable to hardwire to the ECU and routed it under my dash in place of the current OBDII connector (that becomes abandoned with the Infinity). I fabricated a mount and used a female/female connector to create a fixed USB port. I then used a simple USB male/male cable to easily plug into the port under the dash and into my laptop for tuning/datalogging, gauge display, etc. What I failed to realized is that my 6ft patch cable coupled with the 10ft cable and the 1 ft. female to female adapter/socket put my total USB cable length at 17ft. I learned (6 hours later - thank you Google) that USB 2.0 spec only supports up to 15 ft. I swapped my 6 ft. cable for a 3 ft. cable and at about 14ft. problem solved. I could now connect to the computer.
I will be tuning the new throttle body tomorrow and will post results if the idle issues are resolved.
After fine tuning the DBW PIDs, I then tuned the Idle and Decel tables and idle PIDs. She was ready for a road test.
I took it out for its first drive since installing the new Infinity ECU. What I quickly noticed is how responsive the throttle is. In fact, it is so reponsive that I may deaden the throttle a little bit down low just off idle to help soften how agressive it is.
I also tuned the cam timing. I then focused on further calibrating the wheel speed and vss sensors to match in preparation for the Traction Control tuning to follow later.
After getting back from the drive I tested one element of my engine protection strategy by unplugging the oil pressure sensor. The MIL lit up and started flashing red immediately and the RPM threshold of 2300 I had earlier programmed kicked in and would not allow the engine to rev higher. It worked flawlessly.
That's all I had time to tackle on Sunday.
I need to now focus on the VE table tuning and will use the datalogs to start that process.
This pretty much assures me that the Infinity has become a permanent fixture of my car. No going back to the factory PCM.
Excellent and productive day all in.
Until next update...
Again excellent and useful write-up, I was waiting until you solved your idling issue before I asked you any questions.
Regarding the oil separator I was getting ready to order the JLT, so besides the fuel regulator and MAP sensor I'm also running a vacuum brake booster and I was wondering about running the breathers like you pictured, so on a supercharged engine do you think it is still a better way to go?
According to horsepower and fuel requirements I upgraded to larger injectors (Ford Racing 60 lbs) and updated to the VMP twin jet 67 mm throttle body, I also ported the upper Roush supercharger intake to match which according to Justin at VMP with good open exhaust (headers from Stainless Headers Mfg) and a 79 mm pulley it should produce around 12 pounds of boost, I will see how she runs with this combo, hopefully I'm close...
Looks like I will follow your lead on the oil pressure gauge modification and the USB port also good idea on the timing mark I was wondering if I would ever need to use my timing light again.
I'm really looking forward to getting mine running so I can go hands on with the Infinity, like you I'm also running ABS, I have the 95 mustang 3 channel installed and I will be watching for your future posts regarding this.
Until your next post... Thanks!
Last edited by Blown 5.0; 09-22-2015 at 02:06 PM.
If I was running a Supercharged engine I think I would take a similar approach and not return the PCV line(s) back to the intake. I still get oil that moves beyond the JLT oil separator and into the intake with my naturally aspirated motor. I'm sure the amount of oil that would make it beyond the oil separator would be even greater. Mind you that these oil separators really do catch a reasonable amount of oil but not all of it and a blown motor is sure to only increase the amount of oil the intake would see. However, I don't think I would run open breathers. Running 12 psi boost I think I would favor a dedicated catch can setup like Watson Racing has. Check this link out. 2011-2014 MUSTANG 5.0L CATCH CAN/BREATHER KIT BY WATSON RACING - JDM Engineering
I don't think the brake booster would be a problem. AEM says you can run a PCV setup with the MAP with no issues. So I would guess that the brake booster would be no problem. However, with the oil issue I wanted to go one step further and isolate the PCV system from the intake and remove it from the equation.
That is going to be a beast of a motor. I actually think your Twin 67mm throttle body is probably similar in nature to my original Twin 65mm TB. My thought (no science, just suspicion) is that these large throttle bodies are really much better paired with a supercharger than they are stand-alone on a N/A motor. Reason being is if you compare the spring action of the throttle plate the oval TBs are much stiffer than their smaller round style cousins. I think these stiff springs may be designed to help counteract the forced air of the blower. So the blower actually helps open the throttle plate with less electric force/signal. Without the blower assisting the movement of the throttle plate, the electric motor has to do more work/apply more force to counteract the spring tension of the throttle blade. This was one of my theories as to why I couldn't get these larger throttle bodies to tune right on my N/A application. Also, it seems that these oval throttle bodies are really designed around and for the GT500 (supercharged application). Here's to hoping you don't have similar tunability issues with that large throttle body.
One word of caution on your Ford Racing 60 lb/hr injectors. While Ford Racing supplies injector data rated at a delta pressure of 39.5 psi. The AEM injector tables requires flow data for various pressures (30, 40, 50, 60 70 & 80 psi). You'll have to do the math to interpolate. It is not linear (just Google search and you'll be able to get what you need). However, I ended up sending one of my injectors to AEM to characterize. We found that while Ford Racing rated my injector at 47 lb/hr at 39.5 psi, it was actually flowing at 43 lb/hr. That is about a 10% swing to the lean side. When dealing with your fuel requirements to your engine, the accuracy of your fuel/air ratios are going to be affected by the accuracy of your injector data. I don't think I would trust the Ford Racing advertised numbers. I think I would opt to actually have one of your injectors flow tested/characterized so you can be sure.
Good luck. Here to help if I can.
You'll see a comparison of two data logs between one of the Analog sensors (nice and clean) and one of the digital sensors (not so nice and dirty). I am running 3 conductor shielded wire for the digital sensors.
The Infinity wizard has the ability to filter noise on these digital inputs as well as has a smoothing algorithm that can also be used. Currently, this signal is untouched. I will try to use the noise filtering and smoothing features to see if I can clean-up these signals. Hopefully I can.
Did you run the standard ABS sensors on all four corners for your TC? Got any photos of the brackets for the front sensors?
FFR Challenge Street Car Build
625hp N/A Coyote, T-56 Magnum, Moser Solid Axle, etc
My Build Thread:
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I did not run the standard ABS sensors on all four corners. Just the rears. I ran the factory Ford Thunderbird IRS rear sensors. But because there are only 3 available inputs for VR Mag style sensors I had to use digital inputs for the two front ones (or at least one of the front ones but decided to keep them paired). The factory sensors for the front are also VR Mag style sensors thus they wouldn't work on the digital inputs. So I switched the fronts out to generic Hall Effect sensors designed for the Automotive industry that I got from Mouser. Unlike the factory front sensors that mount perpendicular to the tone ring, the Hall Effect sensors have the read pad on the end of the sensor and have to be mounted in line with the tone ring. I've attached a couple of pictures of the bracket as well as basic dimensions in addition I have attached a pdf spec sheet on the front sensors I used.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
FFR Challenge Street Car Build
625hp N/A Coyote, T-56 Magnum, Moser Solid Axle, etc
My Build Thread:
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With that done I then began focusing on my noisy wheel speed sensor signals on the front hall effects. I played with the noise filtering and signal smoothing but to no avail. It had no affect on the signal.
I had met up with David Borden today and he ran his front sensors with the OEMs (VR analogs) and then used an analog to digital converter that was found for us by one of the AEM engineers. His datalogs show an absolutely clean signal. Thus, I will be ditching the front hall effect sensors and install the factory Mustang ABS sensors with the VR to digital converter circuit board wired in.
I didn't have enough time to tune for the decel stalling that occurs on rare occasion when pushing the clutch in and coasting to a stop.
Taking the car out tomorrow for some more driving/datalogging with focus on the decel/stall tuning.
With the Infinity system, I wired in my VSS. Thus there is no need to run a speed dial since its only function is to tell the computer whether or not the vehicle is moving. The VSS wired up along with other features of this ECU allow for great flexibility in tuning idle and decel characteristics. After extensive driving, data logging and analyzing I began to see a pattern emerge. When I decel from above 2,000 RPM and then clutch in as I come to a stop, the engine speed consistently and flawlessly comes down to the target idle every time. However, if I have been cruising around say in 5th gear while under 2,000 RPM and then decel and clutch in as I come to a stop, the engine speed will drop considerably below the idle target and either stall or come very close to stalling. Once I realized this pattern I was able to target the area of the tune that needed to be altered.
So what gives? Well I had my Idle Feedback set to turn on when the TPS (Throttle) falls below 6.5% (which on a DBW setup it is actually the APP1 signal) AND Engine RPM falls below 2,000. Additionally, I have a decel decay of 4 seconds with an idle offset where the tune will reference an Idle Decel table and trim the throttle position up a bit based on rate of change of engine speed as it decels so it doesn’t overshoot the target idle on the way down. I also have a maximum Idle Feedback set to -25 on the decel side. So when I am travelling above 2000 RPM there is no Idle Feedback. Once I fall below 2000 RPM then the idle feedback starts to take effect and the 4 second decay begins and all is well. However, if I’ve been cruising around below 2000 RPM and below 6.5% throttle for some time then the 4 second decay has already been exhausted since the Idle Feedback has been on all this time. Since Idle Feedback has been on for some time in this condition, there is a cumulative integral windup of negative feedback maxing out at -25 so when I clutch in the feedback is a massive adjustment to the throttle position downward coupled with the fact that the Idle Decel trims are no longer in effect since the decay had already expired.
So the tuning solution was to find the conditions while driving where Idle Feedback would only be activated when my intent was to bring the car to an idle and to limit such aggressive negative feedback. How would I tell the computer this? To do this, I dropped the “Idle On Below RPM” threshold from 2000 to 1500. It is very unlikely with my gearing and setup to be able to consistently drive the vehicle under 1500 RPM. This went a long way to cleaning up most of the decel/stall issues. However, there was still the condition where if driving in high gear downhill with my foot on the pedal just off idle position I could see a cruising RPM of less than 1500 RPM. To combat this condition, I dropped the “Idle On Below TPS” from 6.5% to 1.5%. Both thresholds must be met before Idle Feedback is turned on and when either of the two thresholds is no longer met, Idle Feedback is turned off. Changing the TPS threshold to 1.5% would allow the Infinity to drop out of Feedback mode at the slightest movement of the throttle thus resetting any negative feedback windup. Since the resting position of the throttle at idle is 0% (APP1% signal since it’s Drive By Wire) then if I am driving downhill under 1500 RPM and giving the car any amount of pedal then it will be above 1.5% and thus no feedback until I take my foot off of the accelerator and decel manners should be solid. Lastly, I lowered the negative Feedback maximum from -25 to -10 so if there was any windup it would not aggressively drop the idle on clutch in for any rare conditions not controlled by the other two settings.
Now for the test drive. IT WORKED! The car decels perfectly with no stalls, stumbles or hesitations. It idles very smooth and with no engine speed variation. I must say that the driveability and idle manners down low have never been this good, even when I had the Controls Pack PCM and custom tune. While drivability and stock like behavior is really good with this new setup, I’m not sure where the car stands with regard to HP and TQ now. I don’t know if I gained or lost in this area as compared to my dyno numbers with the Ford Racing Controls Pack PCM and custom tune. I’ll have to get the car back on a dyno and do some pulls with this new system to see where the numbers fall. That’s for another post. For now I need to get on to the remaining issue with the wheel speed sensors so I can finish tuning and enable the Traction Control.
While every issue I’ve encountered on this journey of being an ECU tuning neophyte has been extremely frustrating, the reality is that every hiccup and problem encountered on this venture of installing and tuning the Infinity ECU has led to monumental leaps and epiphanies in my understanding and education with regard to the fundamentals of tuning my car.
I guess in hindsight I can say I now welcome problems and issues… until the next one comes when I’ll most certainly change my mind.
Stay “tuned” (pun intended) for my traction control post.
It's great to see your progress on the Infinity ECU.
It is simply amazing to see how programmable these new engine management systems are, kinda reminds me of some the joy stick/throttle programming I've done on some of my computer combat/flight simulator games in the past.
I finally made some progress on the chassis wiring with the installation of the main fuse harness, front harness and a Breeze Automotive engine compartment battery box, a group 51R gel battery the main power cable and a remote battery kill latching relay mounted at the battery.
My question is what do I NOT need to install from the MK4/Coyote complete kit? You mentioned that the speed dial won't be needed but I'm also hoping to maybe get a laundry list of items, a do's and don't cheat sheet to help me figure out how proceed with the Infinity install, any help to move me forward would be appreciated since electrical is a bit intimidating and time consuming, in addition I'm eager to get to my first start so that I can make plans to trailer my "project" to the FF5 Huntington Beach event next year and maybe enter in the under construction class, that would be awesome!
Today I plan on installing the rear harness and perhaps wiring in the (Boss 302) alternator.
And staying "tuned" for your traction control post.
Great to hear you're making progress on the wiring. I'll try my best to answer your questions. Not knowing all the details of your build it's hard to say what that laundry list should look like. For instance, what transmission are you running? If it utilizes an analog VR style sensor then you'll need to convert it to a digital signal for the Infinity to read. If it is already outputting as a digital signal then you should be good. My earlier post covered this. Also I touched on the Fuel pressure and Oil pressure gauges and requirements. The other BIG question is whether or not you already bought the Controls Pack from Ford Racing for the Coyote. If you have the Controls Pack then you can wire up most everything as the FFR Coyote Install manual and Controls Pack manual describes and then interface the AEM Infinity adapter harness to the controls pack harness which is pretty much plug and play. That's what I did but only because I installed my Infinity system after the vehicle was completed with the Ford Racing controls pack. While I am using the AEM Coyote Plug and Play harness for the Ford Racing controls pack, AEM just released their stand-alone Coyote plug and play harness that does not require the Ford Racing controls pack and comes with its own Power Distribution block (Fuses and relay panel) similar to the Controls Pack. Both harnesses will interface very similarly to the Ron Francis harness. So If you haven't purchased the Controls Pack then you could be money ahead by not having to spring for the controls pack just to get your hands on the harness only to ditch the PCM.
Also with the Infinity, you will not be able to use the controls pack wide-band O2 sensors. You'll ditch these Bosch 4.9LSU sensors since the Infinity requires Bosch 4.2LSU sensors. If you don't get the controls pack you would still need to source a DBW throttle pedal and an IAT sensor since you won't be getting the MAF sensor that comes with the controls pack. While the Infinity uses a MAP sensor (speed density) in lieu of a MAF, the factory Ford MAF also has a built in Intake Air Temp sensor that the Infinity can use. So if you don't have the MAF sensor, you can simply buy a stand-alone IAT sensor.
With all that said I would recommend you first figure out how you want to configure your system. Boost control, traction control, do you want to run a 2nd throttle curve, USB logging, launch control, map switching, ethanol/Flex Fuel management (E-85), engine protection strategies, MIL, specific gauges, etc. This is important to think through ahead of time especially at this stage of the build since these decisions will dictate the need for the various temperature and pressure and other sensor inputs as well as switch and trim pot mountings on the dash and wiring to support. These decisions will dictate much of what you are going to need to wire in supplementally to the Ron Francis harness.
You may be best served to make the purchase on the Infinity (providing you have decided to go that route) sooner than later so you can get as familiar with the hardware and documentation to figure out your layout, wiring and feature set that you want to deploy. Once we know that, then I think I can be of much more use to help you isolate a list of the needs and non-needs.
Here is a list of what I have and already installed.
Complete MK4 kit, crate Aluminator NA Coyote, Roush TVS R2300 intercooled supercharger (12 psi) twin 67mm throttle body, 60 lbs Ford Racing fuel injectors, Stainless header Mfg headers, 400 LPH in tank fuel pump with -8 E-85 ready PTFE flexible and stainless hard fuel lines, TKO-600 5 speed transmission with mid shift, Lincoln MK8 IRS center section with 3.73's and factory abs rear sensors, 1995 mustang GT 3 channel ABS unit and factory ABS front sensors, remote oil filter and cooler with thermostat control, Unisteer electric power steering, vacuum boosted power brakes, Lokar DBW throttle pedal.
I already have the controls Pack and sensors from Ford Racing for the Coyote but have not installed them yet.
I would like to consider a 2nd throttle curve (Wife mode) and also to set up the Infinity to control the electric steering for variable power assist, USB logging, launch control, traction control, map switching, ethanol/Flex Fuel and engine protection strategies also, to be sure it looks like I will need to plan for a class as well.
What I already have from AEM but have not yet installed,
Infinity-8 ECU P/N #30-7101
Coyote 5.0L V8 Ford Racing Controls Pack plug & Play Adapter Harness, P/N 30-3812
Map sensor kit 2 bar P/N #30-2130-30
Fluid pressure sensor kit P/N # 30-2130-100
Trim Pot Switch P/N # 30-2056
Hope this helps!
Last edited by Blown 5.0; 10-13-2015 at 06:35 AM.
Whoa, that should be scary fun to drive!
There are a couple of more decisions you’ll need to make to determine best course of action for wiring. Specifically regarding your Vehicle Speed signal to your Infinity and your traction control. You can either use the transmission VSS or your rear ABS speed sensors as your “vehicle speed”. I chose the VSS on my TKO 600 just so I could have a dedicated vehicle speed input. If you go the route of using your TKO600 VSS then you’ll need to convert your signal from analog to digital. I used a Digital Dakota product to convert the signal. As for the traction control, I will post an update soon on my progress in this area. This will also cover latest findings on how to feed the signals to the Infinity (Analog vs. Digital discussion and input constraints).
So based on your inventoried purchases and plans this is what I would recommend you will need and don’t need.
You have one 100 psi sensor (I’ll assume your intention is to use this for your fuel pressure) and a 12-position potentiometer (trim pot) that I’ll assume you intend to use for your traction control sensitivity input which I’ve listed below:
• 100 psi Fuel Pressure transducer sensor – 3-wire (wired to the Infinity and to the optional gauge)
• Trim pot – (wired to the Infinity)
You don’t need:
• Controls Pack O2 sensors
• Speed Dial
• Resistive style oil pressure sensor
• Resistive style oil pressure gauge (either get a new gauge or have it converted. Must be a 3-wire voltage referenced transducer gauge). You’ll have to figure out if you want it to be a 100 psi or 150 psi gauge. I recommend 150 psi otherwise if it pegs at 100 psi it will throw your engine protection strategy off and cause a sensor fault for the period of time the pressure is running above 100 psi.
• Abandon the OBDII connector on the controls pack harness (you don’t need to mount it, just tuck it back and taped it off. The Infinity uses a USB connection
What you will still need to purchase:
• FlexFuel ethanol content sensor (wired to the Infinity)
• Bosch LSU 4.2LSU O2 sensors (wired to the controls pack harness)
• Dakota Digital signal converter (SGI-5E) (wired to the Infinity and possibly to your Speedo)
• 100 psi Fuel Pressure gauge – optional (wired to the sensor and to RF harness)
• 150 psi Oil Pressure sensor (wired to the Infinity and to the gauge)
• Boost solenoid for boost control (wired to the Infinity)
• ABS sensor signal converter from VR mag to digital square wave (I will cover details on this on my next post regarding traction control).
• Wife mode switch - on/off SPST (wired to the Infinity)
• USB log switch – on/off SPST (wired to the Infinity)
• Launch control - ? You have several options here so I can’t give you guidance. You can set it up to launch with a 12-position trim pot to adjust the launch RPM or you could set it up with a rolling launch switch tied to your boost, you could also setup a launch timer function. Depending on how you go about this will dictate what wiring and switches you will need. For me, my launch control is my right foot and my left foot. (wired to the Infinity)
• Electric steering - ? Not sure what you need here. Out of my league. I do know that the Infinity is setup with CANbus support for the Mustang Electronic Steering Rack (EPAS) system. Not sure about other racks. (It would be wired directly to the Infinity)
While your Controls Pack harness is out of the car you will want to make the modifications to the harness as outlined in the Coyote fitment manual that FFR provides (extending the wideband sensor harness on the driver side). Also while the harness is out of the vehicle I would cut the DBW pedal connector off of the harness and wire in the new connector for your Lokar pedal while it’s easy to get to. Assuming you want the Infinity to control your fuel pump I would also make the wiring modifications to the Controls Pack at the blunt lead connector (as outlined in the Infinity harness manual). This also assumes that you are going to opt to wire in the controls pack to the RF harness as outlined in the Coyote FFR manual for the Computer to control the fuel pump. Unlike the Ford Racing setup where the fuel pump is continuously running with the ignition on (even when the engine is off), the Infinity will control the fuel pump and allow it to prime and run for a few milliseconds while the ignition is on before start and then shut off until start condition is met. For the traction control wiring, I would recommend getting some shielded/twisted wire for the ABS sensors. These will route directly to the Infinity.
Other than considering the wiring comments I’ve made, you can pretty much wire up the RF and controls pack harness as outlined in the instruction manual now. You’ll have to make a decision on the fan control. I like many others chose to wire the fan into the computer to allow the computer to control it. If you wire it that way (as optioned and outlined in the FFR coyote manual) then when you plug the Infinity harness in, it will simply maintain that setup and control.
The Infinity harness comes with a 12-pin auxiliary plug that has a number of leads that will simplify wiring up a number of your inputs with the exception of launch control, USB log switch, traction control sensor input and electric steering. Everything else you want to do already has the input leads wired to the auxiliary plug. What this means is that you will need to open up the primary Molex connectors feeding the Infinity ECU and pin in leads to the respective input pins on the computer for those not already pinned out on the 12-pin auxiliary plug. You can then finish these leads with a connector. I used Deutsch DTM style connectors to terminate my leads out of the ECU for a clean install and ease of service. For example I ran an 8 pin connector dedicated to my ABS wheel sensors. This is work that I would plan out and do while the Infinity PnP harness is out of the vehicle. So you’ll need to plan out all of your inputs and start wiring. I purchased all of my pins and connectors through Waytek.
I’m sure I’ve missed some things but I think this will give you a good head start.
This is about all I can offer in a general overview. Once you tear into the details of the install it will probably be easier to assist on a per issue/question basis.
Good luck. One step at a time.
I swapped out my front digital HE sensors with new OEM VR sensors. See picture of the old and new sensors and brackets. The one on the right is the HE sensor and the one on the left is the OEM sensor. Ignore the hack job bracket I made on the right and pay closer attention to the beautiful and simple bracket used for the OEM sensor on the left courtesy of David Borden with design credit going to Russ Thompson. Thanks guys. One less set of brackets I have to fab up.
With the new OEM VR sensors physically installed I moved onto the task of wiring in the VR to digital converter board used successfully by David. It's a cool converter board as it supports two separate sensors only requiring the use of the one board. I wired up this board (see pic) and gave it a spin and had nothing but problems. One of the two front sensors just read 0 MPH (no signal output). The other sensor would track and read with the rear sensors and VSS sensor but then would sporadically jump up and sometimes peg out at 930 MPH. See pic for the datalog of this condition. So after a bunch of troubleshooting and wire checking/swapping, I determined that one of the two out circuits was bad on the board so I decided to move onto plan C.
Plan C - If you recall from my earlier post, the Infinity only has 3 available VR inputs for wheel speed sensors. I chose to use two of the three for the rear and left the remaining one open. After experiencing problems with the converter board I decided to use the 3rd VR input for one of the two front non-drive wheels so I could at least get 3 of the wheels working instead of 2 since I knew the rear VR sensors were working so well. The last picture shows the data log with 3 good wheels running direct VR mag signals and the one bad front wheel running through the defective signal converter board.
So Plan C did help move me forward and technically I could run traction control with just one non-drive wheel sensor but I want all four sensors working. Now what? I emailed the seller of the board but haven't heard back. Regardless, I'm not sure I want to try another one of his boards. Either I messed the board up on my install and soldering of the header pins (although it looks super clean and solid) or it was a defective board to start with. So I'll lick my wounds and move on. Well it's time for Plan D.
Pan D - The VR converter board was priced right at $40. However, maybe I need to find another converter board and make another attempt at converting the VR signal to a square wave. This time I'd have to bite the bullet and pay a hefty sum for a quality component with a recognized name brand. Enter "Motec". Based on their pricing they must be really, really proud of their products. Geez. Anyway, they make a converter board that should work. And just like the other board, this one also will handle two sensors. Although, now I only need it for just one sensor. Here is a link to this component. http://www.motec.com/filedownload.ph...pdf?docid=4583
Part is on order ($120 later) and should be here in time for another attempt at the traction control this weekend. Once I've got the remaining sensor up and running and calibrated, I will turn on traction control and begin tuning and testing. More to follow.
Wow! your informative reply is simply GOLD and just what I was hoping for to get me going. Honestly I don't know how you can do a detailed reply so quickly and still continue to post your own progress but I'm glad you can.
Thank you for the time and headache saver and for the head start.
And now looking forward to your Plan "D" post
By the way, I am really happy with the ease of install on the Motec board. What is also nice with this unit is that the board is integrated into a Deutsch DTM receptacle connector. This connector is weather proof/resistant and provides for a much cleaner packaging than the other board I tried.
Aside from the traction control there is one other area of the tune I'll need to put some focus on. I am getting a "Rice Krispies" effect when I am running the engine at higher RPM and then decel. I get a snap, crackle, pop about 50% of the time. I originally thought that once I got the VE table tuning sorted that this might help mitigate some of the backfire on decel. I have a couple of ideas to solve this issue and will report back findings on this as well.
Great news! nice to see that the Motec Digital converters are working... and now following your lead on to my laundry list they go.
Question, what traction control system are you running? since I'm running the 95 Mustang 3 Channel do I need two, or more converters?
I am using the Infinity ECU for traction control. One of the primary reasons I chose to go with the AEM Infinity since everything is all integrated into the ECU.
I'm not running ABS brakes so I don't have a 3-channel or 4-channel module. I just use the ABS sensors for wheel speed to feed the Infinity for traction control. Sounds like you are going to run ABS along with traction control.
Your 3-channel module uses SN-95 ABS sensors. This is good for the Infinity. You can use my same approach and you'll be setup for both traction control with the Infinity and ABS with the 3-Channel. Since all 4 sensors are factory SN95 sensors they will be compatible with your ABS. And since the Infinity can accommodate 3 of your 4 sensors in its native signal all you need is to convert one of the sensors to digital. A single Motec converter is good for converting 2 sensors but you only need it for 1. So you just need 1 Motec converter. Make sure it is the DCM-D model. They have about 6 models for different types of components (crank, cam, etc.) The D version is specifically geared for wheel speed sensors and is calibrated with the proper filtering.
Last edited by TMScrogins; 10-19-2015 at 12:49 PM.
Thanks for the clarification, (I meant to ask you what ABS setup you had)
Like you I to went with the Infinity because of its traction control integration and chose the Mustang 3 channel ABS due to its independent ability to function without additional computer control.
I'm not clear yet as to which sensor I should tie the Motec into or how to make the connection(s) with the ABS so I started by downloading the infinity manual and began studying it in hopes that it will make sense and that I'm not in over my head.
I can see that installing the Infinity and the rest of the wiring is going to be a bit technical and somewhat involved but not impossible to understand but just like the build has been so far (challenging) I'm sure most of us building our own Cobra replica welcome a good challenge as long as the end goal can be accomplished.
I can tell that the manual won't have all the answers and I can also tell that I will need some help so my question to you is, how helpful was it for you to attend the class? To start with the manual suggests that before installing the 30-3812 Adapter Kit that I completely install the Ford Racing Control Pack as per the Ford Racing supplied instructions, so this will be my start, any suggestions?
Last edited by Blown 5.0; 10-21-2015 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Clarification
No ABS for me. As for which sensor to tie to the Motec, I would use the front left. Here’s the reason. For the Coyote the Infinity is already configured to utilize the 3 open VR inputs on DLWS (Driven Left Wheel Sensor), DRWS and NRWS. DLWS is pinned to Infinity C1-51 (-) and C1-52 (+). DRWS is pinned to C2-26 (-) and C2-25 (+). NRWS is pinned to C2-27 (-) and C2-28 (+). Your 2-wire rear sensors and one front right sensor will feed into these inputs. Now all your VR inputs are used up on the infinity. Take the remaining 2-wire VR sensor on the front left wheel (NLWS) and feed these into the Motec as a signal (+) and a ground (-). Then a single signal wire will come out of the Motec and feed a digital input into the Infinity. This digital input will then be assigned through the software as NLWS. Note - there are only 3 digital inputs that have the proper pullup and are configured to work with traction control. They are Dig3, Dig4 or Dig5. You’ll pick one of these inputs and then reference the corresponding Infinity pin and connect the single converted digital signal wire out of the Motec into this input. For Example, Dig3 pins to C1-24.
As far as connection to the ABS I probably am not a good source for info on that since I’m not running it. However, I think it is as simple as tapping into the same 2-wire sensor leads that are feeding the Infinity. Just be sure on the one NLWS sensor that you have feeding the Motec converter that you tap into the 2-wires before the converter so that you are picking up the analog signal and not the converted digital signal.
As for the class, it was great. I think it should be a 3-day class instead of the 2-day class. They really cover a lot of material in short order. If the class is small like I experienced then it will be great where lots of specific questions about your particular build can be addressed and tailored to the students for what they want to focus on. Keep in mind that the class is not geared to the physical install of the wiring or ECU but rather the software and tuning specifically. The class also has the expectation that students will be coming to the table with prior tuning experience which translates to AEM skipping certain fundamentals of tuning that are common and similar across all ECU platforms such as the ignition map. Instead they will focus on those areas that are either unique to the Infinity or isn’t identical to other ECU platforms.
As I outlined earlier for you, you most certainly can and should install the Controls Pack first. Excluding the PCM itself and taking into account the harness mods I outlined for you.
You can do this. Just take it a small bite at a time. Every wire you connect will help decrease the confusion and overwhelmingness of the remaining wires. It can be accomplished and you have people here to help.
While the base injector flow rate is known and tuned for, the Infinity ECU is capable of applying a few more compensating factors. Wall Wetting is one of those factors. It is a function of fuel condensing in the intake manifold at the injection point. The wall wetting table can compensate for fuel that is condensing in the intake manifold and wetting the manifold walls.
This is basically a fuel trim, add/enrichment or subtract, at various engine speeds compared to throttle rate of change. The base tune had this table adding fuel at larger positive throttle rates of change (quick acceleration) giving a good, responsive feel. But no fuel was being cut (negative trim) on those same negative throttle rates of change (deceleration). It seemed that the backfiring was being caused by too much fuel sitting in the intake manifold at time of quick decel. So I pulled fuel out under these decel conditions based on throttle rate of change and magically no more backfire. Problem now solved.
Here is a look at the table I adjusted before and after. I continue to be amazed at how so far every problem can be addressed with this ECU.
At this point I have a very nicely tuned Coyote engine with good driveability manners and additional features not available with the stock ECU. Now back to some datalogging on the traction control to begin PID tuning out the bugs there.
Way cool to be able to dial right to the issue and correct it with tuning, these Infinity computers are awesome!
Still working on my electrical but I can hardly wait to start playing with the tuning.
Thanks for the updates
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