Another AEM Infinity ECU Install on a Coyote - Page 14 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #391 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:29 PM
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Actually you can setup traction control with just two wheels. Generally you would run one of the traction control inputs to one drive wheel and the other input to one of your non-drive wheels. If you have slip side to side the ECU would not pick it up but if you have slip front to back between the two specific wheels with the tone rings then the traction control would work.

The Series 5 would work, but clearly 4 wheel traction control is superior, and it comes at a cost. Also, you should probably line out all of your intended input and output needs. The Series 7 has far more inputs and outputs, but you may or may not need them depending on what you have planned. Lastly, with running a V8, I never like running just one wideband O2 sensor. One for each bank is superior. The Series 5 only comes with 1 onboard wideband controller. The Series 7 has 2. You could wire an external controller to an input to get a second wideband on a Series 5, but the onboards are nice. Since fueling is so critical with a fuel injected engine, the more O2 sensors the better in my opinion. Easier for troubleshooting and narrowing down problem to one bank or the other.

And as far as your GPS speed sensor, it depends. You have to feed the signal as a digital signal into the Infinity. Are you going to use AEM’s Vehicle Dynamics module (VDM)? If so, then I think you could feed the VSS to the Infinity over the CAN. But their GPS module only operates at 5Hz and isn’t fast enough. The VDM operates at 10Hz.
Hey TM,

All great points and exactly why I'm changing up and going with the Series 7 now. I thought I had all my bases covered, but the more I researched and investigated the more I thought I had made a mistake going with the Series 5. All culminating last night seeing that what I wanted to accomplish, the Series 5 just wouldn't cut it. Especially for all the items you mentioned. 4 wheel speed sensors and dual onboard O2. I had picked up the CAN X-Line controller for the extra O2 sensor, but I like the dual onboard idea.

I do plan on using the VDM and was actually able to mount it in the GTM only 2 inches forward of the exact center of the car front to back .

I planned on actually also taking the PNP harness and modifying it to work in my GTM. After laying it in the car, I'm learning I would have had to completely redo the entire harness. After taking the time to redo the whole schematic in Visio and learning more about the overall system. I think I will build my own harness from scratch, following the layout of the AEM harness.

Thankfully I got Amazon to give me a 100% refund on the PNP harness and Summit only hit me with a 10% restocking fee. Not bad knowing I purchased all these items over Thanksgiving break this last year. Well beyond any normally acceptable return window, so I am very thankful.

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post #392 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Exciting build. Looking forward to when you start tuning it.

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post #393 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 12:24 AM
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Exciting build. Looking forward to when you start tuning it.
Same here. I have taken some classes on the HP Academy Website, not sure if you are familiar with it, but I highly recommend it for anyone looking to learn how to tune ECUs. I have also taken their Wiring Fundamentals and Practical Wiring classes. These classes and what I have learned diving so deep into the Series 5, I am definitely gaining the confidence I need to make this Series 7 work for my GTM.

And since this is ultimately a FFR website, I'll share a few pics of my build just for kicks.



Here is the custom bracket I'll have to get remade for the Series 7.



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post #394 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 03:35 AM
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Same here. I have taken some classes on the HP Academy Website, not sure if you are familiar with it, but I highly recommend it for anyone looking to learn how to tune ECUs. I have also taken their Wiring Fundamentals and Practical Wiring classes. These classes and what I have learned diving so deep into the Series 5, I am definitely gaining the confidence I need to make this Series 7 work for my GTM.

And since this is ultimately a FFR website, I'll share a few pics of my build just for kicks.



Here is the custom bracket I'll have to get remade for the Series 7.



I saw U are using Infinity ISIS body wiring interesting. I used it on my 1967 Mustang. I want to build something with a rear engine. I think its a good experience.
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post #395 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 03:48 AM
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Great to hear on the pedal. I've made some more changes and moved it closer to 40% pedal to 10% throttle. Tune has been emailed to you. Also, I've tuned your 2nd throttle curve for your valet mode. Try flipping the valet switch while you are driving and see how it affects the throttle pedal, then flip it back. This will be a good test to be sure your valet mode is working too.



The MAP signal actually looks excellent (0.5 kPa fluctuation). No jitters at all. It looks like it's dialed in. After we finish some of the remaining fine tuning, I'll have you take it out for a drive and just drive it like you normally would while taking a datalog. Say a 15 or 20 minute drive in stop and go and on the highway. From that datalog I'll be able to really refine your VE table. It actually looks pretty good right now but, I think we can refine it a bit further.



The VSS signal is 10 times better however it doesn't overlay close enough. Take a look here. Also, you can use this tab while you are driving to play with the calibration and smoothing settings in the Wizard to try to get the VSS to match more closely to the rest of the wheel sensors. It's still too far off. It may also be a bit delayed due to the excessive smoothing which I was worried about. Start dropping the smoothing value from 99.5 down lower and see what effect it has on this overlay. Take a look.

Attachment 330394



Lastly, for all future datalogging, just leave the transmission in Auto mode. No need to shift manually anymore for your datalogs. I have everything I need and have your transmission ratios figure out to determine what gear the transmission is in. So we're good there.
I Sent you datalogs for my normal driving. I tried to play with my VSS. Not sure if its ok now. if not lets use ground speed for now. when I get my FLEX fuel sensor. I will try reroute VSS wire and hope to get less noisy signal.

Also, Please can we return to 30% of pedal travel instead of 40% .

Thanks
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post #396 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Shoeless,

Yes, I am familiar with HP Academy. However, for the Infinity ECU I went to AEM's headquarters and got factory trained. It was invaluable. I highly recommend it if you can swing it. They do require you to already have tuning experience as I think they tailor it more to the intermediate to advanced students that just are not familiar with their platform.

Last edited by TMScrogins; 03-23-2019 at 03:23 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #397 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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I Sent you datalogs for my normal driving. I tried to play with my VSS. Not sure if its ok now. if not lets use ground speed for now. when I get my FLEX fuel sensor. I will try reroute VSS wire and hope to get less noisy signal.

Also, Please can we return to 30% of pedal travel instead of 40% .

Thanks
Your VSS is so close at this point. I hate giving up and going with ground speed. Your calibration adjustments improved it but it is lagging a bit behind the other wheel sensors. I dropped your smoothing from 99% down to 95%. Let's give this a try to make it a little more responsive. Take another driving datalog and let's see if we get even closer. We are only about 3-7 MPH difference on the overlay. I did notice that on your rear right wheel sensor it tracks and overlays great but then every now and again it drops (see picture below).This doesn't look like interference or noise. If I were to guess, I would say that the VR wheel sensor gap to the tone ring is off. Perhaps the gap is too wide and is losing signal now and again. Trying minimizing the air gap a bit on this sensor. Also, you should be using shielded wire for all 4 wheels speed sensors and the VSS signal wire. This will help keep the signal clean and strong. I did add some noise cancellation on your VSS signal (was 0%, now 10%). I also added some smoothing on your wheel speed sensors (15%).

I changed your throttle curve back to your 30% pedal target at 10% throttle.

I also took your data log and imported all the data into my VE table build utility and updated your VE table.

Lastly, I increased the MAP smoothing a bit more as well.

New tune file sent.
DriveWheelSensor.jpg
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post #398 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 12:31 AM
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Shoeless,

Yes, I am familiar with HP Academy. However, for the Infinity ECU I went to AEM's headquarters and got factory trained. It was invaluable. I highly recommend it if you can swing it. They do require you to already have tuning experience as I think they taylor it more to the intermediate to advanced students that just are not familiar with their platform.
The more I get into it, the more I think I will do the AEM Factory Training too. Was it all tuning focused or did they do any discussion on the wiring side? I'm seeing myself building my own harness. I'll likely follow what AEM has for their PNP harness for the 24X timing engine and modify it for my 58X.
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post #399 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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The more I get into it, the more I think I will do the AEM Factory Training too. Was it all tuning focused or did they do any discussion on the wiring side? I'm seeing myself building my own harness. I'll likely follow what AEM has for their PNP harness for the 24X timing engine and modify it for my 58X.


All tuning.
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post #400 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 05:49 PM
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Your VSS is so close at this point. I hate giving up and going with ground speed. Your calibration adjustments improved it but it is lagging a bit behind the other wheel sensors. I dropped your smoothing from 99% down to 95%. Let's give this a try to make it a little more responsive. Take another driving datalog and let's see if we get even closer. We are only about 3-7 MPH difference on the overlay. I did notice that on your rear right wheel sensor it tracks and overlays great but then every now and again it drops (see picture below).This doesn't look like interference or noise. If I were to guess, I would say that the VR wheel sensor gap to the tone ring is off. Perhaps the gap is too wide and is losing signal now and again. Trying minimizing the air gap a bit on this sensor. Also, you should be using shielded wire for all 4 wheels speed sensors and the VSS signal wire. This will help keep the signal clean and strong. I did add some noise cancellation on your VSS signal (was 0%, now 10%). I also added some smoothing on your wheel speed sensors (15%).

I changed your throttle curve back to your 30% pedal target at 10% throttle.

I also took your data log and imported all the data into my VE table build utility and updated your VE table.

Lastly, I increased the MAP smoothing a bit more as well.

New tune file sent.
Attachment 330442
I will not give up on it . I tried 95 up to 99 but its still noisy so I thought to use ground speed just because I wanna see how traction control acts. And then when I reroute the wire and then change it to VSS. but no worries I will give it another try. now I didnt use shielded wire for this. I used shield wires for Wheel sensors along with 2000 Mustang ABS sensors. Btw, should I wire the shield on the shielded wire to ground or not?

I will increase value a bit. btw, how do you zoom in the graph like in the photo? after driving for a while the graph gets too hard to read (not sure what word should I use here). the scale of the graph increases while data logging...

will send you logs soon.

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post #401 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 07:24 PM
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In regards to shielded cables, make sure you only ground one end of the cable, usually at the ECU. All of the grounds should be connected together at what is called the 'star point' so effectively, all the grounds are common. Lastly, but importantly, the grounds need to be connected to either vehicle ground (chassis) or electronic ground (ECU), as stipulated by the manufacturer.

Some notes:
- the ground wire may be used to power the sensor but the ground should not be connected to the chassis at the sensor location.
- if a ground wire is connected to both ends then there is potential for current to flow along it. This will likely induce noise into the wires it is supposed to be protecting.
- another undesirable consequence of grounding both ends: excessive currents can flow in that ground path during cranking of the engine, failure of earth strap, or when welding is carried out. This will result in the cable being burnt due to excessive current flow, followed by a whole lot of anguish.
- electronic ground by definition does not run at the same potential as chassis ground. in the case where shielding needs to be connected to the electronic ground, ensure that that shielding does not also get connected to chassis ground unless stipulated by the manufacturer.

it's pretty fair to say that the level of complexity that you guys are working at, you probably know this stuff already. Just thought I would add my *two cents worth in case it helps or interests someone else.

Cheers Nigel in south Oz.

*AUD 0.02cents probably only equals USD 0.01cent
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post #402 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 07:30 PM
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Sorry, in my earlier post I said 'ground wire' what I meant to say was shield wire. Hope that makes sense.
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post #403 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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I will not give up on it . I tried 95 up to 99 but its still noisy so I thought to use ground speed just because I wanna see how traction control acts. And then when I reroute the wire and then change it to VSS. but no worries I will give it another try. now I didnt use shielded wire for this. I used shield wires for Wheel sensors along with 2000 Mustang ABS sensors. Btw, should I wire the shield on the shielded wire to ground or not?

I will increase value a bit. btw, how do you zoom in the graph like in the photo? after driving for a while the graph gets too hard to read (not sure what word should I use here). the scale of the graph increases while data logging...

will send you logs soon.
X2 on Nigel Allen's comments regarding shielded wire. I used sensor ground from ECU on all wheel speed sensors.

If your next datalog still looks problematic on your VSS, I'll switch it to Ground Speed and then activate your Traction Control so you can play with it and see how it works. Then when you are ready, and as you suggested, we can flip it back to VSS input after you work to get that further sorted.

As for zooming in on the graph just move your mouse cursor over the graph and roll your scroll button. If you don't have a scroll button on your mouse, just click on the magnifying glass in the upper left corner of the graph log box and then move your mouse around the center of the box and while holding down the left mouse button drag the mouse up to zoom in and down to zoom out.
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post #404 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 10:42 AM
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Hakeem,

When you get your flex fuel sensor, you are going to want to wire it into your Digital_5 input. Digital_3 is being using by your one wheel speed sensor, Digital_4 is being used by your VSS speed sensor and that leaves Digital_5. Physically install the sensor on the return line back to the fuel tank just after the regulator.

The sensor wiring harness will have 3 wires (12V +, Ground, Output signal). The Output wire will be wired into C1-26 on the ECU. This will put it on Digital_5. Also, if I remember correctly, you have the Coyote controls pack wiring harness from AEM. On that harness there is an auxiliary 12-pin connector called out as AUX-12. It is prewired and has the Digital_5 (C1-26) wired on AUX-6 of the 12-pin Deutsch DTM connector. So you shouldn't need to break into the main ECU harness. Just wire it into pin #6 on this auxiliary harness.

Once you get your sensor and have it wired it, I will turn it on, assign the digital input, and change the fuel type in your tune. I've already tuned your stoich and ignition blend tables.

That's pretty much all there is to it on the sensor.
So, I got My sensor Today. I wil wire it as follow;
1) 12V from ECU (the one I had my rotary switch connected to it.
2) Chassis ground or Infinity Ground (sensor ground)?
3) Vout is going to Digital_5

Thanks
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post #405 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 10:44 AM
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In regards to shielded cables, make sure you only ground one end of the cable, usually at the ECU. All of the grounds should be connected together at what is called the 'star point' so effectively, all the grounds are common. Lastly, but importantly, the grounds need to be connected to either vehicle ground (chassis) or electronic ground (ECU), as stipulated by the manufacturer.

Some notes:
- the ground wire may be used to power the sensor but the ground should not be connected to the chassis at the sensor location.
- if a ground wire is connected to both ends then there is potential for current to flow along it. This will likely induce noise into the wires it is supposed to be protecting.
- another undesirable consequence of grounding both ends: excessive currents can flow in that ground path during cranking of the engine, failure of earth strap, or when welding is carried out. This will result in the cable being burnt due to excessive current flow, followed by a whole lot of anguish.
- electronic ground by definition does not run at the same potential as chassis ground. in the case where shielding needs to be connected to the electronic ground, ensure that that shielding does not also get connected to chassis ground unless stipulated by the manufacturer.

it's pretty fair to say that the level of complexity that you guys are working at, you probably know this stuff already. Just thought I would add my *two cents worth in case it helps or interests someone else.

Cheers Nigel in south Oz.

*AUD 0.02cents probably only equals USD 0.01cent
Thanks Thats really good info there!

just to make sure we are talking about the same wire. I meant that wire that hanging there without color. this is the shielded wire right?
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File Type: jpg Shielded_wire_4F.jpg (80.9 KB, 8 views)
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post #406 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 12:16 PM
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Hi Hakeem, you are correct, that is the shield wire.

Regards Nigel in South Oz
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post #407 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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So, I got My sensor Today. I wil wire it as follow;

1) 12V from ECU (the one I had my rotary switch connected to it.

2) Chassis ground or Infinity Ground (sensor ground)?

3) Vout is going to Digital_5



Thanks


This is correct.
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post #408 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 01:56 PM
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In AEM, there is one pin that says shield ground. can I use this for the shield for wheel and VSS sensors?
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post #409 of 444 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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In AEM, there is one pin that says shield ground. can I use this for the shield for wheel and VSS sensors?

Not sure which pin you are referring to. I used the pin C2-31 which is labeled “sensor ground”. It is on the AUX-12 sub harness pin#3.

I used this for my sensor grounds including the shield wire.
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post #410 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 06:50 PM
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Hi,

So I just sent you 3 logs all with the latest tune Flex_9

1 Idle and 2 cruise. Here is What I noticed:

1) in Idle log before I start engine and key is on o2 sensors seems to read 1.5. before they used to be at 1. not sure if thats an issue.

2) in the second cruise log. Vacuum is around 50. not sure if this is normal or not first time to notice.

3) now that I have rewired VSS wire. I am at only 15 smoothing and I think reading is way better.

4) what you think about all the speeds ae they ok now?? seems to me much better than before.

Thanks
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post #411 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 07:16 PM
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Hi,

So I just sent you 3 logs all with the latest tune Flex_9

1 Idle and 2 cruise. Here is What I noticed:

1) in Idle log before I start engine and key is on o2 sensors seems to read 1.5. before they used to be at 1. not sure if thats an issue.

2) in the second cruise log. Vacuum is around 50. not sure if this is normal or not first time to notice.

3) now that I have rewired VSS wire. I am at only 15 smoothing and I think reading is way better.

4) what you think about all the speeds ae they ok now?? seems to me much better than before.

Thanks
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post #412 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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Hi,

So I just sent you 3 logs all with the latest tune Flex_9

1 Idle and 2 cruise. Here is What I noticed:

1) in Idle log before I start engine and key is on o2 sensors seems to read 1.5. before they used to be at 1. not sure if thats an issue.

2) in the second cruise log. Vacuum is around 50. not sure if this is normal or not first time to notice.

3) now that I have rewired VSS wire. I am at only 15 smoothing and I think reading is way better.

4) what you think about all the speeds ae they ok now?? seems to me much better than before.

Thanks

1) Not sure why it would have ever been reading 1 with the engine off. 1.5 is the max limit on your Infinity tuner gauge. With the engine off, the needle should be pegged to 1.5. This is normal. With engine not running there is no air/fuel mixture. So the O2 is just picking up oxygen with no fuel therefore it will register lean. A value of 1 with the engine off and ignition on would indicated that a 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio is being sensed which is impossible without the engine running. The gauge is doing what it should at the engine off.

2) 50 kPa may be normal. There are several variables that can affect this for sure. Intake manifold design, cam timing, cam profile, the gear that you are in, etc. will all play a factor here. 50 at cruising highway speeds would be normal for factory stock Coyote. Nothing alarming here.

3) Congratulations on nailing your VSS signal. It is now a solid signal and overlays nicely. It's about perfect.

4) The other speed sensors look good. There is a little bit of discrepancy but only about 2 mph delta and we don't trigger any traction control until we see 3 mph delta. However, we still see the right rear wheel speed sensor dropping out when you fall below 20 mph. I can work around this by triggering your Traction Control to activate only above 20 mph. But I generally like to activate TC at about 5 mph ground speed. So it would be great to clean this up a bit. Did you check the sensor air gap to the tone ring on this wheel? That might be the problem.

Miscellaneous:

Your flex fuel sensor is working perfectly. You are now fully tuned for Flex Fuel. You can mix in alcohol/ethanol and it will automatically compensate for whatever the percentage mix between ethanol and gasoline. By the way, your gasoline has 2% ethanol in it for your information.

This last tune you loaded was set at 10% actual to 20% pedal on the drive-by-wire throttle curve. Do you want to keep it here or moved it from 20% back to 30%. Let me know and I'll send you the next tune file. This next file will have the Traction Control turned on. Keep in mind that when you want to play with the traction control, just turn your POT switch. It's current state is OFF. One click and it will be set to 13 mph slip minimum before it engages. each click after that will make it more and more sensitive my removing 1 mph slip with each position landing on a 3 mph slip minimum at the most sensitive setting.

Let me know on the throttle curve and I'll send you the revised tune.
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post #413 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 04:48 AM
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4) The other speed sensors look good. There is a little bit of discrepancy but only about 2 mph delta and we don't trigger any traction control until we see 3 mph delta. However, we still see the right rear wheel speed sensor dropping out when you fall below 20 mph. I can work around this by triggering your Traction Control to activate only above 20 mph. But I generally like to activate TC at about 5 mph ground speed. So it would be great to clean this up a bit. Did you check the sensor air gap to the tone ring on this wheel? That might be the problem.

Miscellaneous:

Your flex fuel sensor is working perfectly. You are now fully tuned for Flex Fuel. You can mix in alcohol/ethanol and it will automatically compensate for whatever the percentage mix between ethanol and gasoline. By the way, your gasoline has 2% ethanol in it for your information.

This last tune you loaded was set at 10% actual to 20% pedal on the drive-by-wire throttle curve. Do you want to keep it here or moved it from 20% back to 30%. Let me know and I'll send you the next tune file. This next file will have the Traction Control turned on. Keep in mind that when you want to play with the traction control, just turn your POT switch. It's current state is OFF. One click and it will be set to 13 mph slip minimum before it engages. each click after that will make it more and more sensitive my removing 1 mph slip with each position landing on a 3 mph slip minimum at the most sensitive setting.

Let me know on the throttle curve and I'll send you the revised tune.
That I forget to check. I will check the gap and will let you know. I would like to fix this and make it work above 5 mph.

regarding pedal. I noticed that the less travel the easier to calibrate Low and High pressure knobs in Transmission controller. So, For now instead of 10 to 20 percent can we change this to 5 to 15 percent?

Good to know about ethanol content. I would never knew that without the sensor.

Thanks
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post #414 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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5% actual to 15% pedal is just about exactly where it was at 10% actual to 30% pedal. So we'll just be changing it back to where it was before. Is that what you want? If not, you are going to have to give me more details on what you want the pedal to actually do. There are an infinite number of combinations to tune this throttle. This may be an area you might want to try to tune for yourself so you can customize the feel of the pedal to exactly how you want it to respond.
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post #415 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 05:16 AM
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5% actual to 15% pedal is just about exactly where it was at 10% actual to 30% pedal. So we'll just be changing it back to where it was before. Is that what you want? If not, you are going to have to give me more details on what you want the pedal to actually do. There are an infinite number of combinations to tune this throttle. This may be an area you might want to try to tune for yourself so you can customize the feel of the pedal to exactly how you want it to respond.
Shift firmness knobs work with pedal sensor. my pedal see 0.7v at rest and 3.0v at WOT. and the way how using shift knobs work is like this;

"The affect the knobs have on the calibration are based on throttle position. At 0% throttle, the Low knob controls the calibration. At 100% throttle, the High knob controls the calibration. At throttle positions between 0 and 100%, the knobs act together with each contributing some control over the calibration based on the throttle position. At 50% throttle position, both knobs contribute 50% control over the calibration."

So I think by changing Actual % and Pedal travel% we are affecting this. or is it just in my head?
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post #416 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:42 PM
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For now. Can we Please return it to being linear. I will try it one more time in linear now that the transmission is working correctly. After I will adjust as per your previous values.

Thanks
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post #417 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hakeem View Post
Shift firmness knobs work with pedal sensor. my pedal see 0.7v at rest and 3.0v at WOT. and the way how using shift knobs work is like this;

"The affect the knobs have on the calibration are based on throttle position. At 0% throttle, the Low knob controls the calibration. At 100% throttle, the High knob controls the calibration. At throttle positions between 0 and 100%, the knobs act together with each contributing some control over the calibration based on the throttle position. At 50% throttle position, both knobs contribute 50% control over the calibration."

So I think by changing Actual % and Pedal travel% we are affecting this. or is it just in my head?
This makes general sense to me but I don't know much about how the calibration exactly works on your transmission controller. Anyhow, since the pedal position can be mapped to any percentage of the throttle, you can take your .7v at rest and 3.0v at WOT and interpolate every DBW throttle curve breakpoint in between as a linear line or as more of a progressive line. I will put it back to linear with something close to a 1:1 ratio between pedal and throttle and send you the latest revised tune with Traction Control on and Flex Fuel complete.
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post #418 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:48 PM
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Hi,

I sent you a log while cruising with A/C on. if you please could look at it and see if anything need changing. Also, I did adjust Gap for rear wheel sensors and I think now they all work below 5 kmh.

one thing on traction control. the car has really nice grip and I couldnt spin wheels yet. I am trying to find a nice spot to give it a try. maybe later this week. Also, i am still afraid to be little harsh on the car ��.

Thanks
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post #419 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hakeem View Post
Hi,

I sent you a log while cruising with A/C on. if you please could look at it and see if anything need changing. Also, I did adjust Gap for rear wheel sensors and I think now they all work below 5 kmh.

one thing on traction control. the car has really nice grip and I couldnt spin wheels yet. I am trying to find a nice spot to give it a try. maybe later this week. Also, i am still afraid to be little harsh on the car ��.

Thanks
WOW! Great job on cleaning up your speed sensors. They are just about perfect. They are really clean even down at the lower speeds. Your wheel sensors are done. For the benefit of others reading this post, I have attached a before and after on the wheel sensors. The picture tells the story. Great work, Hakeem.
Before.jpgAfter.jpg

I did notice your coolant temp is running about 202 degrees F. Not sure where you wanted your fan to kick on and off. Currently it kicks on at 201 F and kicks off at 194 F. I run mine a little cooler (about 10 degrees cooler). If you want, I'll change that or perhaps you want to leave it where it is at. I know these newer engines like to run a little hotter but I think some of that from the factory is to help with meeting emissions requirements. I always favor running a little cooler personally.

Let me know and I'll kick out another tune for you.

Trevor
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post #420 of 444 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMScrogins View Post
I did notice your coolant temp is running about 202 degrees F. Not sure where you wanted your fan to kick on and off. Currently it kicks on at 201 F and kicks off at 194 F. I run mine a little cooler (about 10 degrees cooler). If you want, I'll change that or perhaps you want to leave it where it is at. I know these newer engines like to run a little hotter but I think some of that from the factory is to help with meeting emissions requirements. I always favor running a little cooler personally.

Let me know and I'll kick out another tune for you.

Trevor
Thanks!
I did Change it to turn on on 85C and of at 80C. However, I tried this before and my car always stays at around 95C. while my gauges temp shows 85 c. Gauges temp is located on the same location as original temp location with added T fittings. I had to use extra sensor because it works with Digital Dakota.

one more thing. I just sent you a log. I noticed that when I come to a stop (traffic light). it Idle a bit high. at the first few stops in the log it was about 1000 RPM. If you look toward the end of the logging I gave it a bit of a kick down then after a minute I reached home. I parked in the garage and shifted to parking and the car idle was 1200 with A/C still on. I turned it of it went back to 850RPM. I turned A/C back on it went to 1200 again. If you please can take a look and see if this is normal?

ok one more thing. At the end when I did the kick down did TC work? I saw a spike on the TC plot but not sure this is TC working or something else.

Thanks
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