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Old 12-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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GTM Gen1, #105 Fires Up!

It's a go!!!

Just a little setback with the cam sensor harness, but the motor is alive. Alive, but not all well...just yet.


By the end of the video there's a tiny backfire, and then the engine dies. Could be lack of fuel again as I
was repairing the AN cross-over connector. I'll check the level, and do it again later.

The HP Tuner scan shows an odd trend for B1/B2 Injector pulse width which jumped from an average of 4.8 msec
to 12 msec quite rapidly. Something leaned out, and the computer tried to compensate.



My gauges are not working except the tach., so that's my next order of business. Power is there, and signal
lines are connected. Must be my method of connection:
I= 12V switched power
G= Ground
S= Sensor signal
Seems good to me? Power is there on I, and S.

I'd really like to get this go-kart testing done before the snow arrives. This weekend will be dedicated to getting the
engine locked up, and wires trimmed, tucked, and loomed.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, good show man. Glad your moving forward.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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congrats man!! im in the same boat as you are at the moment
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That's cool! I'm seeing quite a few members at this stage. Seems like the world is
Going to see a handful of GTM's this Summer!
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It appears that I'm going to drop the ego, and dig deep into my pockets for a "real" paint job. I've given up the dream that I'll be able to get close to
a pro-looking paint finish on my own.

Having said that, my car wont be ready for paint this year - there's just too much to add, and figure out. I want to modify the rear tail lights, the rear hatch,
add side scoops, spoiler, and who knows what else.

For that reason, I'm going to attempt a temporary paint job myself, and save my pennies for a proper, killer, show car edition the following Winter. This means I'll have
to redo the bodywork, and have it prepped again. I'm willing to go through those extra steps to have the GTM on the streets this year. After hearing my
engine fire up, there's no way I'm going to let it still another twelve months will I'm saving the cash.

There's someone in mind that is going to paint the car. He boasts about his, "ice show car shine", and attention to detail. I'll be checking out some of his work soon. Maybe he'll allow me to post some pictures of his portfolio here for critique.

Does anyone have any words of caution about my process? IE: Don't use xxx primer if you're going to sand it all down again.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Two paint jobs

You are taking the same path we do on the paint. IMHO you will end up with a much better end result, especially if you're going to do any modifications to the fg. Also it much easier to work out the mechanical bugs on a car when you're not always worried about scratching the paint. You might also find that painting a car isn't so hard. The only disadvantage is the cost of the materials. I estimate the cost of materials on our car was about $2500. But that was for top of the line paints primers etc. I'll bet you could get all your materials for about. $1000 - $1500 if think of your first paint job as a shinny coat of primer. Go to your local automotive paint supply store and tell them what you are trying to do. I'll bet once they see either your car or some pictures they'll be willing to help you out. One way you can save on the paint is to ask them to give you a call if they get any paint back for color matching issues. In other words someone had some paint made up and for whatever the reason the customer didn't like it. There is nothing wrong with the paint and they might sell it to you at a substantial discount. It probably won't be the color you want, but you are only using it as a shinny primer right? And a GTM looks good in any color.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
It appears that I'm going to drop the ego, and dig deep into my pockets for a "real" paint job. I've given up the dream that I'll be able to get close to
a pro-looking paint finish on my own.

Having said that, my car wont be ready for paint this year - there's just too much to add, and figure out. I want to modify the rear tail lights, the rear hatch,
add side scoops, spoiler, and who knows what else.

For that reason, I'm going to attempt a temporary paint job myself, and save my pennies for a proper, killer, show car edition the following Winter. This means I'll have
to redo the bodywork, and have it prepped again. I'm willing to go through those extra steps to have the GTM on the streets this year. After hearing my
engine fire up, there's no way I'm going to let it still another twelve months will I'm saving the cash.

There's someone in mind that is going to paint the car. He boasts about his, "ice show car shine", and attention to detail. I'll be checking out some of his work soon. Maybe he'll allow me to post some pictures of his portfolio here for critique.

Does anyone have any words of caution about my process? IE: Don't use xxx primer if you're going to sand it all down again.
FWIW…… Before you decide to just run your GTM in primer, you might just want to talk to whoever is going to do the final “Killer” body and paint job.

Usually painters/body men that do that type of finish work, tend to track towards being Prima donnas, and don’t like to follow behind some one else’s work. So they will either say no, or charge you a whole lot more than if you just waited, and let them do the work from start to finish
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Good idea, I will be talking with him early February, and will tell him my plan.

For the cable throttle guys, what are you using? I'm checking out some
Lokar product, but nothing seems to be long enough. My routing will require
about 120 inches (no sex jokes!), or about 9.5 - 10 feet.

Worst case, I could always join two cables together...or I'll hit up some
cycle shop for a custom made link?

Show'em, if you got'em!
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There has to be someone as several guys are not fly by wire now.

California Push Pull will do just about anything but I am sure there is something out there. A lot of sand buggies use LS in the rear and need cables. HTH, Richard.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Morse cables are cheap and readily available, but this is your throttle cable, so I wouldn't neccessarily go with "cheap".

Here's where I get my cables from...

Control Cables, Inc.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks guys I'll check it out.

Anyone in the Tulsa or Broken Arrow (oklahoma) area? PM me to meet for coffee, and
Talk cars. I'm here until the 23rd
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Time to show off my spot welds! After a few hours of watching videos, reading, and practicing on scrap metal I tried my first ever spot weld. It looks pretty good, and is holding well.
I have a new respect for those who weld for a living! Maybe after a month of practicing, I'll be able to weld my own bead, but for now I'll let my buddy complete the task.

If all goes well, I'll have the exhaust routed tonight, and the seats/accelerator pedal in tomorrow. There wont be any chance of a test drive until the weather improves however. We
currently have over a foot of snow, and it's still coming down. Maybe next week for a test drive?!

Here are some shots of the test fitting, and spot welds. This is three inch, mandrel tubing.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Lokar will supply you with any length you want in one foot increments that you can cut to length. I have the much stiffer Morse style cable and will change it to a Lokar soon.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks, that's good to know.

I think I've found a great solution for a 1/10th of the cost. I'll post the results after testing it out.

Essentially, it's two brake cables for a bike linked together using a
hardware box (similar to the e-brake cable). It's one extra link that
could possibly fail, but the throttle blade is hardly loading the tensile
capacity of the wire. I don't expect any issues long term.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I would recommend that you reconsider the "bike cable double up" thing. There are two things on a GTM, or any other car for that matter, that I will not mess around with...brakes and THROTTLE HARDWARE. Do yourself a favor...don't go out to eat twice and buy the best throttle cable you can find instead. The money you save on the meals should more than cover the cost of the cable. You will understand the first time you push down on the pedal in your GTM.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It's not as much about the cost as it is/was about finding a cable long enough.
Luckily I haven't gone past the point of no return so I'll check on that Lokar
option with custom length.

I know what you mean about "feel"; there's no need for a grainy, choppy feel
as the cable slides back, and forth. Never really thought about that. Thanks
for the heads-up.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The link I posted above allows you ANY length cable you need. They make them to order. so no 1" increments or anything like that. They ask you exactly how long, what throw, what type of hardware, the amount of force required, and then build you EXACTLY what you need. Should be under $150.
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:00 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Congrats.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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For those familiar with the G96 transaxle:

I need to know the thread size to connect the hydraulic line to the slave
unit.

The part number is 997.116.237.04

I will likely use some sort of adapter, or hose end for AN fitting (probably -3, or -4 AN).

Thank you in advance for any info.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:10 AM   #21 (permalink)
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After a few calls/e-mails to Porsche, and Erik, along with some crude measurements,
I think I've found my fittings! I've ordered a 12mm x 1.25 AN adapter for
the slave which will connect the braided hose to the hydraulic master.

It will be a -4AN which is more than enough; I just hope everything assembles
as planned.

Since I haven't updated this thread in a while, here are some pictures of the
build progress. Once the clutch gets connected, and the cold snow disappears,
I'll finally have a go-karting test video to share.

My first attempt at flux core welding. Not perfect, but not bad for a couple of hours practice. This system will likely be upgraded next season anyway.

Painted the axles, and reluctor to prevent rust. It looks pretty good, and will match the colour of the car.


This is how the G96 connects via cable shift. Slight modifications required by grinding out the ball posts, and inserting the threaded links.


For those using cable throttle, here's a cost effective, and high quality solution. Teleflex, Marine throttle cable. Smooth, and durable. I had to
modify the accelerator pedal with a metal tab, but it's a done deal. Just
needs some paint.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:26 AM   #22 (permalink)
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It turns out, the thread pitch for the slave hydraulic line is not 1.25.
So much for my crude measurements! Thread pitch gauge is tough
to read while standing on your head, and getting around all of the
obstacles in the GTM engine bay.

Eric wrote to tell me he found an adapter, and it's enroute via mail.
Hopefully it arrives this week. I'll update the size of the fitting once
it's confirmed for those using the G96 and/or similar slave.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:40 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Today was one of those, "HELL YES" to "#@#$ NO" days.

The parts from Erik arrived today, so I thought the clutch line could be
installed, and bled. It turns out, the fitting is proper for the clutch side,
but the hose end is -3 AN.

I had already run -4 AN Teflon braid with -4 fittings so you can imagine
my disappointment when finding out the mismatch. This is no blame to
Erik however, he didn't know I ran the bigger fitting. Stupid me didn't
even bother to mention the size.

Thank you Erik for coming through again! I've ordered a -4AN to 12mm x 1.0
metric adapter to complete the link.

For those using the G96.00 transaxle with slave PN# 997.116.237.04, this is
what I recommend for materials:

12 mm x 1.0 metric to AN adapter (-4 AN). Russell# 670420
10 feet of PowerFlex, Teflon braid hose. Russell#632560
90 degree PowerFlex Endura Hose end, Russell#620441
Straight PowerFlex Endura Hose end, Russell#620141
3/8" NPT to - 4AN Adapter Fitting (Master end, NC24), Russell#640301

This will get you hooked up, first shot with no headaches. -4 AN is more
readily stocked around here, but there are options for -3 AN if you can find
a supplier.

I truly hope this saves someone some time, and money. I'll be listing a bunch
of parts for resale that I no longer need. Dealzzzzzzzzzz a'comin'!
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:27 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Installed the clutch line today! I broke down and bought some temporary fittings as the -4AN to 12mm x 1.0 fitting is backordered. Tomorrow I'll bleed the system, and might be able to roll around a bit (if the weather is warm)! We are still getting 0-5 degree C temps. :S

Also spent time looming wires, and cleaning off a bit of dust (need to get "Kempo-clean!). I'd like to get some video of the startup for sharing. If nothing else, I'll put the car on jack stands to run the motor up to operating temps, and run through the gears. It will be nice to hear it running again since before Christmas.





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Old 04-06-2013, 11:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Silly question

Keep in mind I'm not a mechanic, but looking at your brake master cylinders, you have the lines coming out the top, instead of the front. I thought the lines went out the front, and the top outlets were for bleeding.

Is there a reason you plumbed it the way you did?
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:56 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Taz, it's not silly at all.

The kit car was purchased used, with the master cylinders already plumbed
(along with the suspension, and a few other things).

I didn't think anything of it; I figured it was routed that way due to tight
spacing as most things in the GTM.

The bleeder must be the highest point in any system (cooling, hydraulic, etc.),
so the loops being higher than the bleeder screw will cause air to get trapped
at the highest point, and never bleed out.

Now that you mention it, I'm thinking I have a bit of work ahead of me. Didn't
even notice all this time, but I'm betting it would have hit me in the face when
I bled the system.

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 04-07-2013 at 12:30 AM..
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:09 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Some finishing touches for today. Seat belts, trimmed some electrical wiring,
connected a couple of gauges, and put the car on jack stands.

Tomorrow's job: bleed the clutch, brakes, and go for a spin. I guess I'll be
rerouting some steel lines too! Thanks Taz for the heads-up.



Don't mind the direction of the exhaust. It's temp to keep the heat/gas away from the intake.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:00 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Another start-up today after adding the IAT sensor (in place of a potentiometer!), exhaust, and gauges. She sounds, and idles
like a champ.

The motor reached operating temps, and no leaks with a pressurized cooling system. Good news there, but the clutch bleeding wasn't as nice.

Here's a scan of the idle (monitoring spark lead). The 0.6 column only
appeared after several minutes of run time. I think the cam is too tame!
Short video to come soon.

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Old 04-09-2013, 12:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Another start-up today. Short video to come soon.
Way to go Tino very nice. But we don't need no short video...........

We Need a Long Video.

Just to up the stakes I'm putting down a "double dog dare" on you to go-kart this thing this week.

IF you don't know the rules of a double dog dare, it goes like this

Once you get a double dog dare, you can't not do it
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:14 PM   #30 (permalink)
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You are too kind sir, and I accept your DARE!

The clutch is done; the reverse bleed method worked (used a small syringe to
produce the pressure).

Doing the brakes now, and then I should be able to roll-out for a test drive.
You should have a video of that in a couple of days.

We will talk again soon Mr. Body Work.
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Headers, Sidepipes,...
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