GTM Gen1, #105 Fires Up! - Page 5 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
GTM Forum sponsored by Mendeola Powertrain
FFCars.com Forums Advertisers Build Sites FFR FAQ Gallery

Go Back   FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum > Factory Five Racing GTM Supercar > Factory Five GTM Forum
Register Garage iTrader FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Advertise


Thanks Tree2Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 09-18-2013, 02:21 PM   #121 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
sk7500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bakersfield Ca
Posts: 412
That's a great looking catch can. Thanks

There are two people I know who have done scissor doors on a GTM. Arron (AGH) and Ron (ron565). You might want to Pm them on their thoughts about scissor doors.
sk7500 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-19-2013, 11:27 PM   #122 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Question:

How many of you have a major offset at the rear tires? One side is almost one
inch offset from the fender. I'm thinking a thicker spacer on the driver's side is
the most effective way to correct this issue?



I might as well deal with the radius of the wheel wells too. They are not as
symmetrical as I'd like.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2013, 12:19 AM   #123 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Taz Rules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 455
Hey Tino, don't forget to wear a respirator when you paint. Primer too. And if you are using a catalyzed primer, (which you should be!) a charcoal respirator won't cut it. It doesn't filter the really nasty stuff called isocyanates. Fresh air hood only. ESPECIALLY with clearcoats!

Charcoal respirator is good for the water-borne colour coats, but never, never clears.
Taz Rules is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2013, 01:14 AM   #124 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
RF RIDER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Bay, Ontario
Posts: 360
Hey Tino;
I ended up sending my speedo back to the manufacture and they changed the face plate to km/h, also had them insert the high beam light and teh turn signals into it. total cost was somewhere around 40 bucks. I think it cost more to ship then for them to change it out.

Not sure if you got to the window stage in the doors, but just have to say...be patient. it will work.
__________________
GTM II #369
Kit Arrival 04/30/11
RF RIDER is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2013, 02:28 AM   #125 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Hey Dave,

I read about the gauge conversion, but having the MPH face doesn't bother
me because the numbers are calibrated properly. Now I can tell people we're
going super fast, and mess up their sense of speed.

The windows, and door internals are in progress. I'm not worried about getting it
right, I just like to complain a lot.

Get some pics of your car up soon! It seems like you're pretty close to road testing?

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 09-20-2013 at 02:58 AM..
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2013, 02:40 AM   #126 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk7500 View Post
That's a great looking catch can. Thanks

There are two people I know who have done scissor doors on a GTM. Arron (AGH) and Ron (ron565). You might want to Pm them on their thoughts about scissor doors.
Are they going to tell me what I don't want to hear (read)?
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2013, 06:23 AM   #127 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
REV2XS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wysin
Posts: 694
Garage
Hey Tino,

All this is, is the fact that the body naturally angles to the left by about an inch. This warp happens during the molding process. The manual says you need to center it at the rear by measuring the top of the wheel guard against the top of the rear shock mount, left side and right. The problem is that the body doesnt want to sit there on the rear splash guards and the diffuser alone. Thats why i designed my own exhaust trim plate out of thicker aluminium and so that you can bolt the plate to the transaxle frame that you saw once before. With that plate, you can put the rear end exactly where you want it and it'll stay there. You rivet the plate to the body as per FFR instructions and the bottom lip of the plate bolts to the trans frame after you have measured the wheel guards left to right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
Question:

How many of you have a major offset at the rear tires? One side is almost one
inch offset from the fender. I'm thinking a thicker spacer on the driver's side is
the most effective way to correct this issue?



I might as well deal with the radius of the wheel wells too. They are not as
symmetrical as I'd like.
REV2XS is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2013, 01:34 PM   #128 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Mjollnir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northwest USA
Posts: 883
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
Question:

How many of you have a major offset at the rear tires? One side is almost one
inch offset from the fender. I'm thinking a thicker spacer on the driver's side is
the most effective way to correct this issue?



I might as well deal with the radius of the wheel wells too. They are not as
symmetrical as I'd like.
I just went through this. Measure using strings attached at the rear of the tire at frame height (at the 1 1/2 " tube) running forward. Be sure you are at ride height first. move the front part of the string until the string is parallel with the frame. String both sides at the same time. Then after both strings are parallel to the frame measure the distance string to frame.

In my case the drivers side wheel was closer to the frame as well as further forward. The drivers side camber was more than 1 degree even when using the most extreme shim (outermost setting). The adjustment I needed to make was to slot the drivers side front holes in the upper control mount(elongated) (.300) then filled in with weld (filed it round again). This moves the top of the wheel out and rearward. Then reset your camber (obviously outwards). Now my drivers side wheel is within 1/8 of the same distance (outer wheel to frame using the string measurements) compared to the passenger side. The camber shim is also closer to center.
__________________
GTM kit 233, Completed
Mjollnir is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2013, 02:56 AM   #129 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Thanks for the feedback guys.


I spent some time aligning everything today, and it's much better now.
Tomorrow the rear aluminum bracket will be installed which will hold it all in place.

Mj., I like your tube idea for the cooling system hoses in the tunnel. Good move.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-22-2013, 06:18 AM   #130 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Almost bang on with the body alignment! After measuring, and leveling
everything in sight, the rear bracket was installed. Now the tires, and
trunk lid are sitting in their rightful place.

The wheel alignment has not been completed yet, but it's pretty close (as is the ride height). I'm not going to set anything in stone until the wheels have been setup, however
my procedure was to align the body to the frame/cage, and not the wheels. If anything, i'll rework the wheel wells to conform to the roll cage, and wheel alignment.
It just seems like the right thing knowing the body is not true. Anybody disagree with that logic?

Wheel to body centering after adding the rear bracket:


Leveled the entire car. Used the frame as the reference. The cross bar, and the transmission mount are centered,
and also serves as the visual reference. The levels sat on the body, and trunk lid while the laser indicates the centerline
of the frame.


Three bolts used to hold the rear in place. I'm also going to use an industrial glue between the
back side, and bracket before 'glassing the bracket to the body. The license plate covers up
the bolts very well.


The only major clean-up will be the lip of the trunk to the body. It's nearly square,
but there are several high, and low spots that require attention. I think shaving the
edge of the trunk should allow the lid to sit more flush with body lines at either side.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #131 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Playing around with some diffuser ideas in Photoshop. Scion FR-S, or perhaps a Ferrari F430
if the price is reasonable.

The lights will get replaced as well.

00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2013, 05:08 AM   #132 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Looking forward to seeing this car all one shade/colour! The last two days have been spent cleaning, degreasing, and taping the body.

Tonight I'll be applying filler to all the uneven areas, and sanding down the rough spots that I never finished. With all the new
info that I've gathered about body prep, I'll have a good guideline to follow.

Just a few more areas to cover-up, and then the fun begins.


00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2013, 02:37 PM   #133 (permalink)
www.myraceshop.com
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 16,308
If you would like an interesting exercise, take a tape measure, put the end on the centerline at the rear license area where you have marked with a green line and then run the tape along the bumper lip around to the rear wheel well opening. Maybe yours will come out different, but mine was something like 3" different side to side.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


GTM/Corvette/Racing Parts

Solution "kits" for some common GTM issues.

"How To" videos, including bodywork, frame, suspension, vehicle layout-all coming soon.

"Choose Freedom Over Freebies"
crash is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2013, 06:51 PM   #134 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
I just called Ferrari Parts Dept. for a price on the F430 diffuser.

Then he said, he's not sure if the fins are included. He thinks they are separate
and cost $700-$800 each (x4). I'm expecting an email with the update.

Hmmm...it's a toss up - My left arm, or an F430 diffuser? Let me think about it.

EDIT: The fins are included, but it's made of plastic? I never thought I'd see that material used
on an exotic trim piece! Needless to say, it's out of my budget, and knowing it's not carbon fiber
doesn't make it desirable at all. If anyone else wants the details, I have a bill of materials, and a
PDF exploded view of the assembly. Here's the quote



Mike, I'll get those measurements asap; I'm curious to know!

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 09-23-2013 at 09:11 PM..
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2013, 12:26 AM   #135 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Fraser D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 809
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
I just called Ferrari Parts Dept. for a price on the F430 diffuser.

Then he said, he's not sure if the fins are included. He thinks they are separate
and cost $700-$800 each (x4). I'm expecting an email with the update.

Hmmm...it's a toss up - My left arm, or an F430 diffuser? Let me think about it.

EDIT: The fins are included, but it's made of plastic? I never thought I'd see that material used
on an exotic trim piece! Needless to say, it's out of my budget, and knowing it's not carbon fiber
doesn't make it desirable at all. If anyone else wants the details, I have a bill of materials, and a
PDF exploded view of the assembly. Here's the quote



Mike, I'll get those measurements asap; I'm curious to know!
This is exactly why I am building a GTM and not buying an exotic.
__________________
Dave

GTM # 294
Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20 6 speed
Build site.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Fraser D is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2013, 12:38 AM   #136 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Right on Dave, even $240 for an 18" x 12" mesh grill is nuts. Must be made
of gold?

Mike, I measured the bumper edge out to the wheel well, and it's 5/8" difference
between sides.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2013, 08:54 AM   #137 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Definitely one of the coolest cakes ever-made by my sister-in-law.

00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2013, 02:13 PM   #138 (permalink)
www.myraceshop.com
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 16,308
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
Mike, I measured the bumper edge out to the wheel well, and it's 5/8" difference
between sides.
Wow. You got a good one...or I got a bad one. All fixed now, of course.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


GTM/Corvette/Racing Parts

Solution "kits" for some common GTM issues.

"How To" videos, including bodywork, frame, suspension, vehicle layout-all coming soon.

"Choose Freedom Over Freebies"
crash is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2013, 02:54 PM   #139 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Fraser D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 809
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
Definitely one of the coolest cakes ever-made by my sister-in-law.

I guess that Birthday wishes are in order.
Happy 40th Tino!
__________________
Dave

GTM # 294
Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20 6 speed
Build site.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Fraser D is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2013, 03:46 PM   #140 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Taz Rules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 455
He's so cute...he's 2080 weeks old!

Happy birthday, Tino

Raising a glass of 18 year old Aberlour in your honour!
Taz Rules is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2013, 06:07 AM   #141 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Thanks guys, I like your style! All the fun happens on Saturday, so I'll have a drink
for both of you.

Back to biz on this crazy body work.

This is the rear quarter after filling in pin holes, and sanding 220.
There is a slight hump in the second photo that is noticeable with light.
I'll have to knock that down a touch more!



High spots, and low spots. Second photo is what's left after 220 blocking.
I'm going to spray some guide coat on tomorrow, and block with 400 to check for more uneven areas.



Driver's side air duct. Wow, I hate this part the most. The panels were far from even, and
all the tight corners, and curves makes it very difficult to sand. After four hours, I'm still left
with some holes, and apparent uneven surface.



This is the driver's door brace after two coats of spray-can yellow. A bit of orange peel
effect going on, but I'm not going to bother sanding this down as it will be hidden from view.
It looks pretty smooth, and well adhered for a hand-job (< )


This is the gun I picked up last year. It's a high volume, low pressure, gravity feed. The installed tip is a 1.4.
I'm hoping this will be good enough for the priming stage; maybe a different tip will be required.


If nothing else, most of the swirl marks are disappearing from the initial rough-up of the body (when I completely had
no clue how to sand). The criss-cross hatch pattern at about 30 degrees intersect is the motion I'm using now.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2013, 11:54 AM   #142 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
After a good wash, and tack, I gave a few spots a healthy dose of guide prime. A bit more than required...yes, but
it helps me to see the imperfections.

To my surprise, the side air duct turned out much better than expected considering all the parting lines, and steps
before the body work began. More filler, sanding, repeat.



Easier to see the wave along the bottom where the three pieces join.
It wasn't as pronounced without the guide layer.


Lots of work remains in the corners, and more pin holes after the last cleaning.
Spot putty should fix those I'd imagine.



I used several light sources, with different angles, and intensities to find errors.
After this stuff cures, and shrinks, I'll add a thin layer of filler (or putty) to the low
areas, and block it again.





Body guys really do earn their money. It's easy to see that I'm out of my league, but it's
going to have to suffice until I can afford the real thing.

It's going to be a long Winter spent in the garage.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-05-2013, 09:41 PM   #143 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Here are some exciting pictures for you all! Doing a second round of filling, and blocking to correct the low spots.
These are the before, and after areas that are shown in the previous post. It will be FUN to see how it all progresses...
like watching paint dry?

I used the widest applicator to ensure the block would conform to the curve of the body.
The filler is spread about two inches on either side of the low spot, so it should sand out nicely.



This may not be a low spot, but the filler shows through the guide coat and gives the
impression there may be the slightest dip. Maybe I'm over cautious, but I'd rather be
safe than sorry!



Filler to fix the bigger air pockets in the gel coat, and spot putty for the tiny air bubbles.
I knew this area needed more work before spraying the guide layer, but having all the different
shades, and transitions made it difficult to see where all the problems were.



I'm also getting leads on 2K primer that will work with the 3M products that I've used. I'm not sure when I'll
be ready to prime; at this rate, I'm taking nearly a week to prep one rear quarter! On the bright side, they say
the filler should sit for at least a few days to allow shrinking, then block to the final grit prior to priming.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2013, 12:05 AM   #144 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
A few points of interest for those following along:

- The Scion FR-S diffuser (aka lower bumper assembly) is $318.22 + tax from the dealer. That's about 10x less than Ferrari's plastic part.
With a little work, I think it will look really nice. I'm going to check one out up-close, and make a decision before the primer stage happens.

EDIT: added photo (don't mind the spoiler, that's not exactly what I'm going for!)


- I've picked up a thermal adhesive from Thermo-Tec for the inner tunnel, and fender aluminum. The idea is to keep the pinging from rocks
to a minimum, and isolate the heat in the tunnel, and engine cover/firewall. This stuff is about 1/8" thick, and appears to have great damping
on top of thermal properties. The outer tunnel is covered with a fiber-foil material on my car, so having this stuck inside should really help
knock down the heat. It's thin enough to fit under the console, and engine cover without interfering with anything behind it.



My father (whom is my partner in crime) also contact a friend of his about paint & primer. He mentioned a paint MFG, or brand called, "Diamond".
The only reference I can find to automotive paint bearing any similarity is Diamond-Kote which seems to be a clear coat protective finish.
Has anyone heard of Diamond paint? If so, can you link me? Google defies me.

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 10-08-2013 at 05:04 AM.. Reason: Added photoshop image of Scion FR-S diffuser
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2013, 02:42 PM   #145 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
RF RIDER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Bay, Ontario
Posts: 360
Hey Tino;
looks like your on the road to completion. I've been stalled with ordering some parts, but managing to work on some wiring.
I am wondering about the idea of putting the thermo-tec stuff inside the engine cover that is between the seats. the heat may actually cause this to peal off, which would have bad results. I would like to do the same as I do not want to remove the covering on this piece to add sound deadening to the inside. Has other builders done this and how has it held.

sand, clean, sand, prime, block.....keep it up.
__________________
GTM II #369
Kit Arrival 04/30/11
RF RIDER is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2013, 05:42 AM   #146 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Yes Dave, I'm getting closer to a better looking build. I fought with myself for
most of the Summer because tuning the motor, and joy riding was more important
than getting the yucky body work finished.

Now I'm finally biting down, and hope to have the entire car ready for primer
by month end. One dilemma is whether the alignment should be done before
the snow arrives. That means I'd have to drive it once more, then remove
the body. Most of what I've read encourages that the wheels are aligned
before fixing the wheel wells.

At the moment, I'm finishing the driver's side air intake, and rear quarter.
If all of this checks out after another guide coat & sanding, then I'll move on.


The door assembly begins. Power windows, door poppers, then scissor hinges.
I'm in for a stressful project I'm sure.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-12-2013, 01:48 AM   #147 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
Take two! It's looking MUCH better, and most of the issues are gone except for pin holes, and a couple of hard spots in the corners of the air-inlet thingie...

It's only a guide coat, but it's so refreshing to see one solid shade! Too bad it's all getting blocked down again.


I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but the pin holes just keep re-appearing. Maybe the spot putty isn't the best
thing to use? I'm going to try a thin layer of filler, mixed with less viscosity this time around. There are also some
low spots in the corner as you see.


The underside of the cut-out looks like crap. It's wavy, and not blended well at all. This was after fixing the edge
which had a bunch of air-bubble cracks; I'll have to try one more application of filler, and block with more attention
on the edge.


The low spot is gone! It's probably not a big deal for the pro's, but it's nice to see something
go well. The edges of the filler have a 'fuzzy', or 'dotted' texture through the guide coat.
Is this normal? Why not the entire patch, but just the edges? It was blocked down 220, and
very well blended (no feeling, or visual step) before the primer was sprayed on. Maybe I just need
to block it with 400+, and/or add more guide coat? Just making certain before I move on.


I'm also creating a personal build site for the car if anyone is into web design. Right now, it's just a Flash movie flipping
through the pages, but I'll make individual pages soon. Don't mind some of the vehicle data, it's just a placeholder in some cases!

StreetLegalRacecar.ca
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-19-2013, 04:01 AM   #148 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
I believe like I have this beat! After using a few tips from our members, and getting better at the technique I can say the driver's side inlet is
pretty much straight, and seamless. It took three passes of filler, and guide coat application to get it right, but I'm happy with the results.
If nothing else, I'll apply a very thin layer of spot/glaze putty over some of the excessive scratches that are showing, and a couple tiny blemishes.

This is sanded down 220, and a light fog of filler primer as a guide.



Pin holes fixed, and edges blended fairly well. The second photo
is blocked to 400 just around the curve of the inlet to practice removing
the, "orange peel" finish. There isn't much of a guide layer to sand off,
so the final pass shouldn't take much elbow grease.




Moving onto the rear, and passenger side. I'll get the main body setup with
220 grit blocking, and a guide coat before moving to the hood, doors, and hatch.





The rear hatch needs quite a bit of rework on my car, and that's before the glass
comes into the equation. I know Mike (TheStig) had a heck of a time getting it true,
and is now redesigning his hatch to correct the issue.

Waveless, and shadowless using different light intensities, angles, and
my untrained eyes.



Tough to see, but there's a step (shadow) across the seam. This will need a wide
applicator, and a bit more filler to straighten.


After seeing my car in this improved condition, I wonder how I let myself post such crappy images
all of this time.
00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2013, 12:20 AM   #149 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
00SS_M6LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,044
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to 00SS_M6LS1
I get it; this is a kit car...things are not supposed to fit properly, however the
glass doesn't touch either ledge on the front, or rear post!

Even with the rubber seal in place, there's almost 3/4" gap between the
edge of the glass, and the rear post.

Has anyone experience this much slack on their Gen 1 kit? I don't see a fix for this, other than having new glass made!

00SS_M6LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2013, 11:27 AM   #150 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
Presto51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Catonsville/Maryland
Posts: 1,025
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
I get it; this is a kit car...things are not supposed to fit properly, however the
glass doesn't touch either ledge on the front, or rear post!
Hey Tino,

Remember your suppose to build a car not just bolt one together

Look for Fastthings Youtube videos he goes over what he did to get his windows to fit. Just to show you that I'm a nice guy you can start with the following video of his

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4BmIjb6wnk
__________________
"May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead".
Presto51 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


» Premium Vendor Showcase
» Recent Discussions
Car Cover
09-21-2018 11:25 PM
by dwleo
Last post by Brastic
Today 03:14 PM
8 Replies, 506 Views
Stupid question: gas...
Yesterday 04:57 PM
Last post by NiceGuyEddie
Today 02:59 PM
6 Replies, 248 Views
3 link adjustments
Yesterday 12:12 AM
Last post by brian1967
Today 02:42 PM
13 Replies, 215 Views
Simple GTM build?
08-16-2019 07:14 PM
Last post by Shane
Today 01:13 PM
5 Replies, 147 Views
Fuel gauge again
Yesterday 01:11 PM
Last post by jesmeltzer
Today 10:55 AM
2 Replies, 93 Views
Heading downhill fast...
08-14-2019 04:23 AM
by ckouba
Last post by ckouba
Today 08:08 AM
6 Replies, 166 Views
Shark92651's MK4 Coyote... ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
03-17-2018 07:42 PM
Last post by shark92651
Today 01:29 AM
199 Replies, 16,141 Views
2015 Donor Mk4 Roadster... ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
02-11-2019 03:22 AM
by IsaacW
Last post by IsaacW
Yesterday 09:53 PM
289 Replies, 8,730 Views
Wilwood brakes for 15”...
08-13-2019 09:43 PM
by buxep
Last post by buxep
Yesterday 03:17 PM
3 Replies, 102 Views
I LOVE my little 302 ( 1 2 )
03-17-2017 07:12 PM
Last post by Real time recon
Yesterday 01:00 PM
48 Replies, 4,544 Views
Oil Pressure woes
07-07-2019 11:29 AM
by timmil
Last post by brian1967
Yesterday 02:58 AM
23 Replies, 1,042 Views
ebrake pulley mod
08-10-2019 02:54 AM
by egchewy
Last post by edwardb
08-17-2019 11:30 PM
17 Replies, 546 Views
Cherry Bomb Muffler...
08-10-2019 12:33 PM
by Bill46
Last post by SC210Ford
08-17-2019 11:03 PM
17 Replies, 710 Views
Inspection - FAILED!
08-13-2019 09:09 PM
by dwleo
Last post by sullivank
08-17-2019 09:52 PM
11 Replies, 510 Views
Well, I went and dun it.
08-15-2019 09:19 PM
by USMC
Last post by USMC
08-17-2019 07:07 PM
4 Replies, 151 Views
How much oil in a...
08-15-2019 12:23 AM
Last post by Redshift
08-17-2019 04:58 PM
8 Replies, 203 Views
Dash
08-16-2019 06:22 PM
Last post by jhargrove
08-17-2019 04:12 PM
9 Replies, 194 Views
Headers, Sidepipes,...
04-25-2019 10:58 PM
Last post by chrisarella
08-17-2019 06:01 AM
9 Replies, 1,176 Views
Front mounts ?? Did FFR...
08-16-2019 07:53 AM
Last post by Murd
08-17-2019 03:36 AM
6 Replies, 235 Views
Moderator help pls
08-16-2019 11:32 AM
by CraigS
Last post by rich grsc
08-17-2019 02:12 AM
6 Replies, 199 Views
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Google
 

 

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:31 PM.




The Tire Rack

Intercity Lines

Team 3 Wheels:

Midwest Classic Insurance:

FACTORY FIVE ROADSTERS:

ROADSTERS
Roadster Forum
4.6L Roadsters
Big Block Roadsters
Non-Ford Powered Roadsters

FACTORY FIVE COUPE/SPYDER:

TYPE 65 COUPES
SPYDER GT

FACTORY FIVE GTM:

GTM SUPERCAR
GTM Forum
GTM Classifieds
GTM FAQ

FACTORY FIVE '33 HOT ROD:

'33 Hot Rod Forum
Hot Rod Classifieds

FACTORY FIVE COMPETITION:

Challenge Cars
Road Racing
Autocross / Pro Solo
Drag Racing

GENERAL FACTORY FIVE DISCUSSIONS:

Free Photo Hosting
Tires / Wheels
Tops & Tonneaus
Upholstery
Gallery
Audio / Electronics
Car Care
Insurance / Registration
Brakes / Suspension
Ford Big Block Tech
Ford Small Block Tech
Forced Induction / NOS
Fuel Injection Tech

EVENTS:

National Events
Southwest
Northwest
NorCal
SoCal
Southcentral
Midwest
Southeast
Northeast
Canada

OFF TOPIC:

Off Topic Discussions
Other Car Discussions
Smyth Performance G3F
Automotive Photography Discussions

CLASSIFIEDS:

Cobras and Replicas For Sale / Wanted
Parts For Sale / Wanted
Donor Cars For Sale / Wanted
Other Vehicles For Sale / Wanted

NEWS / HELP:

FFCars.com News
Forum Help / Test

 


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


 

The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.