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Old 06-19-2013, 02:49 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
My FFR brothers, and sisters, today is truly a day to remember.

There's a ton of work ahead of me before the car officially sees the outdoors,
but let me tell you that finally getting the registration unloaded a mountain of
stress.
This Forum seriously needs a "Like" button. ;-)
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:54 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Woo hoo!

Break out the suds and tighten the lugs!

We about to kick back and par-tay!

Congrats, Tino!
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:54 PM   #93 (permalink)
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sweet! congrats.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:59 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Thanks all! Hope to have a video, or two out soon. I'll have to strengthen the
rear body support, and finish up some electrical before getting some road tests
done.

I'll have the ugliest GTM on the road with my filler, and primer patches, but
that will change in the very near future.

Gauges are complete; I used 2 5/8" voltage, and temp dials, along with five
inch
RPM & Tach gauges. The two inch Pro Comp's that came with the kit have been
moved to the on-dash gauge pod (fuel, h20, oil psi). Red backlights match
the stereo, and interior lighting theme.

I may add LED's for trouble, MIL, above the volts/oil temp, and a shift light
between the turn signals. Should be easy enough.

Maybe even an LCD strip below the RPM/Speed for basic info like outside air temp,
OBDII parameters, etc. Next year Tino, next year...


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Old 07-01-2013, 10:07 PM   #95 (permalink)
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The most important part of the car is nearly complete - the entertainment system!

Just waiting on a rearview camera, and monitor arrive, then the tunnel can be
buttoned up.

The stereo sounds fairly good in the car, and the bass frequency is filling out fine
(even without all panels isolating the box, or carpeting/insulation).

Can't wait to hear it with the component speakers, and proper mounting.

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Old 07-09-2013, 08:01 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Rear light, and front light wires cut to length, and tidy. Tomorrow the fog lamps, and camera systems get plumbed.

I'm thinking to swap the orange lenses for red, and put the reverse lights next to the license plate. I'd also like to parallel the two
pairs of tail lights to flash/brake in unison.

We'll see what I can find for reverse lighting. Might be a Winter project.

Any volunteers to come over and wash the hood?



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Old 07-27-2013, 02:26 AM   #97 (permalink)
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In the garage right now working on the Vintage Air system. Unfortunately, my
kit didn't come with install instructions but I found this online:

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructio...STRUCTIONS.pdf


At the moment, the main red lead is connected to Batt +
Both white wires are grounded to Batt -

Violet is switched to 12V Ignition.

Tan is switched to 12V Turn stalk lighting.

The trouble is, the fan runs as soon as the master disconnect is engaged,
or in other words, it will constantly run when RED is connected to Batt +

I've even disconncted the violet, and tan wire. It still runs constantly.

A quick search doesn't help much, I'm getting tons of threads that are not related.

Has anyone else had this issue? Worst case, I can run a another relay to the
HVAC, but it doesn't seem necessary.

Also noteworthy, the backlighting does not work on the control panel.

Thanks for any ideas!

On a good note, I've got a working fan!

Now onto power windows...
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:34 PM   #98 (permalink)
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2 ways to hook up the fan, the right way and the wrong way. I tried the wrong way first and it ran the same as yours.

Plug the fan into the other lead. I hope it's that simple.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:11 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Hey Gene, I like your theory! I guess that's what happens when you don't have instructions.

If it's not what you think, I was hoping the power relay was faulty.
I'll let you know tonight when I get back into the garage.

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:03 AM   #100 (permalink)
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It's complicated but, I think it's working. Here's an update:

- Tried Gene's suggestion of swapping the power harness (They are keyed the same, but the correct mating wires are colour coded Red/White, and Orange/Brown.

- Removed both relays. Fan still came on once master switch engaged.

- Disconnected small white ground from harness bundle. Still no luck.

- Found this online (Page 7 of the control panel manual):


* I thought it might be the BSC connection because all power wires terminate there.

* Saw that JM2 is some sort of pulse width modulated (? PWM ?) control.
Disconnected JM2 harness. Fan did not come on.

* Unplugged servos, and ECU power harness to inspect ECU. Blew out some
dust, checked the pins for metallic debris shorting across, etc.

* Installed the ECU with power harness, and control panel harness. JM2 remained unplugged.

* When power turned on this time, saw red LED illuminate. Touched Violet wire, and Tan wire to +12V. Red LED cycled, and did some short, and quick flashes.

* Plugged in JM2 (nothing happened -this is good!).

* Turned the fan dial. FAN TURNED ON!

Seems like I had a dirty connection, or something shorting one of the harnesses.
Still not sure. Hope to repeat the test successfully tomorrow.

Backlight on control panel looks great! Will try connecting the servos to
control the port outputs. Seems promising.

Night all.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:23 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Been doing quite a bit of wiring over the last week, and now I'm working on
the suede covering. Fuel tank covers are done, and some of the tunnel
aluminum is riveted. Hope to have that, and the sound dampener done
this week.

How are you all doing the tunnel suede? Are you tucking it under the carpet,
and console? I'd imagine that's the easiest, and most sensible. I'll have to check the manual for their recommendation before moving on. My plan is to
stick some padding behind the suede to kill the sound, and give it a more,
"plush" appearance.

Here are some shots of the firewall/tank covers. Crappy cell phone picks. My
wife agrees that we need a better camera to snap photos of the...ummm...baby.

This kid might come in handy afterall!

3M Spray Glue is really sticky, and fast drying. Painters tape to hold it all down until it's solid. Wrinkle free covering.




Amps mounted. Using a small Alpine amp for the Nav system so it doesn't
sidechain my music!

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 08-14-2013 at 01:45 AM..
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:47 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Sound dampening, and heat shielding going down.

I'm going to stick this on the tunnel aluminum to reflect the heat away from
the interior, and give the suede a padded look.


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Old 08-17-2013, 02:13 PM   #103 (permalink)
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The suede is placed for fitting, it's not glued yet, but i can tell it will lay down nice. The heat shielding is adhering to the aluminum very well,
and gives the padded look I wanted, without seeing the rivets, and edges.

As a test, I wrapped my 60 watt utility lamp with the shielding, and it was cool to the touch. Hopefully I'll be able to contain the cooling temps
within the tunnel using a combination of this foiled shield, and insulating wrap on the pipes.

Snake skin loom on the wires, and then I'll need to find some sort of metallic, black button as a grommet for the holes in the suede.

Hoping that I'll be able to get the seats back in tomorrow afternoon, and go
for a quick boot around the block. At least a start-up video with the new
exhaust if nothing else. I can't believe it has been this long without hearing
the new mufflers!

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Old 08-20-2013, 03:52 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Damn HVAC is acting up again; it's doing the same routine as before (turns on with master battery switch enable).

When this happens, the controller has no effect. I guess I"ll be calling Vintage Air
tomorrow to seek help. I can no longer trust the unit, but the show must go on...start-up video with new mufflers, and possible drive tomorrow.

Pics & vid. to follow. It's on the internet, therefore it will happen.

EDIT: Vintage Air system is fine. Make sure the grounds are both at the same point. I had the small white wire on a bus
bar that was 1.5 feet from the negative lug. Not much of a voltage drop either: >0.02 and it wouldn't work.

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 08-25-2013 at 05:50 PM..
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:55 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Mostly good news, and a little bad news.

Most of the interior wiring is complete, and the gauges appear to be responding properly. The tach is reading a bit high, so I’ll have to calibrate
the unit, or purchase a converter. If I’m not mistaken, the Autometer requires an additional box to properly read the mutli-coil signal? All of the
electronics are checking out. The head-unit will power the LCD for backup camera view, even if the stereo is off. That’s pretty cool…maybe
that’s typical of all head units with backup cams?

The engine fired up again; it’s pretty quiet with the mufflers. Almost too quiet for a sporty, super-car, kinda sound. My wife was pleasantly
surprised…and I was thinking, MORE VOLUME! We’ll see how she sounds through revs with a bit of engine load.

The bad news is that, the engine stalled fairly soon after. When I went to restart, the starter gear got jammed on the flywheel. I’ll have to reshim
since putting on the heat shield which is partially held by the starter bolts. The MAF will likely need some VE table tweaks to keep it idling smoother.
That’s the plan for tonight, and another video.

Check out this McLaren’s paint scheme. I’m thinking the GTM would look great in a similar pattern, minus all the lettering, and less black on the front
end?
EDIT: Starter is shimmed, and a bit of tuning done. Car still dies at idle. It has been doing so since installing the mufflers. Tuning is fun...

Last edited by 00SS_M6LS1; 08-29-2013 at 03:44 AM..
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:16 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Better late than never (I think I've said that before). Start-up & idle tuning was a bit of a pain; the mufflers really changed the airflow through the motor,
and I'd consider the Magnaflows to flow very well, with little restriction. It sounds, and feels like there's at least one cylinder down. It's most likely a fouled
plug from the failed restarts.

A few things to fix like the rear, right night running light, water gauge backlight, and a couple other minor glitches. If the weather is good tomorrow, and the
motor behaves, I'll have an extended road test ahead of me!


P.S. I told ya it was quiet...and dirty.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:33 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Swapped in some hotter plugs, and ready for more tuning tonight. The initial VE table edit allowed the
engine to idle, but it's way too rich now.

Hopefully leaning out the mix will cure the "misfire" symptoms as there are no
codes flagged, and all sensors are responding.

Wrong heat range, timing "so-so", way rich in the idle region, and deep in the core too. It appears I have a date with the laptop, and my PCM this evening.

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Old 09-04-2013, 08:41 PM   #108 (permalink)
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We're tuned up...sorta. The engine is happier now at idle, and I was able
to get around the block for a bit of testing.

Sounds good, feels good. Now it's all about fine tuning the AFR, then getting
some power into this sucker.

A little rinse to get the dust off, then a short trip to log some data. Back to
the build later tonight, and tomorrow. Damn, there isn't much of a view with
the body installed; it feels like I'm looking through binoculars.



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Old 09-09-2013, 03:09 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Today the mirrors were installed. Measured about ten times before drilling, and the same for the opposite side. My speedometer isn't working at the moment; HP Tuners
isn't even getting a signal so it must be the sensor, or harness. I'm going to try using the wheel sensors because the one that's bolted to the transaxle might not be compatible?

Also having trouble with the temp gauge; the sender is reading 2.2K ohms at ambient I may need a resistor in parallel to cut the reading so the gauge needle will swing.

Silver mirror, and black mirror.


Some motivational pics for the desktop!


Still too lean, but getting in range. I'll need to start logging some miles to get it right.
The short trips around the block are not enough.

I'll soon be joining, "the club"!
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:54 AM   #110 (permalink)
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I'm currently working on selecting wheels and offsets. I like how your wheels sit in the fenders. Would you mind sharing your wheel rim widths and offsets and width of spacers if any? Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:07 PM   #111 (permalink)
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I've been trying to locate all the measurements that were taken when I switched
from the previous XXR wheels to these latest MSR wheels. YOu might be
able to get the specs from this info:

MSR #095, Black Pearl
18" x 8"
5 x 120 mm bolt pattern

No spacer front
Rear spacer 1.25"

The dimensions are very close to the C5 rims.
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:05 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Had the car out again today for a fairly lengthy drive. Not the nicest day, but productive nonetheless.

The speedometer is now working, along with all of the other gauges. After fighting with several ghosts, I've discovered that
my setup does not require a resistor on the speedometer signal wire, and my VSS sensor was functional all along.

To update my previous post, changing the tach signal from 6 to 4 pulses in HP Tuners throws off the calibration to about 2000 RPM
too high. The correct setting for the LS series, multi-coil engine is 12 pulses for my car (and I'm assuming for all LS engines using the Autometer?).



I'm fairly happy with the GTM's performance out-of-the-box. Even without power steering, I don't find the action
too difficult in parking lots, or rolling out of the driveway. At speed, it's not even an issue. Same with the brakes;
it feels as though it will stop on a dime. Very little pedal pressure required, and I'm using the base C5 calipers.

What are your thoughts (for those without pwr steering, or pwr brakes)?

The acceleration is incredible for such a light frame, and I'm not really pushing it too hard right now. Definitely going
to be bad-*** when it's all dialed-in, and properly aligned.

Next on the list is door assembly (windows, poppers, speakers, etc.). I'm not holding my breath on this phase; it's going
to take a great deal of patience to get the door spacing proper, and sealed properly. All to be removed over the Winter
for the scissor door hinge. With only a couple of months left, I wonder if it's even worth the trouble?

My goal is to drive the car to work at least once! Maybe use it for all of October, and then strip it down in November.
I don't think I can put off driving this thing any longer.

Focus Tino...doors, and primer.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:30 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Hey Tino;

Do you have your car full registered and road worthy? reason I am asking is I am sure I read that in Ontario at least we need to have side marker lights/reflectors. I do not see any on yours. I am within a week or so about to carve into the body and flush mount some side markers, but I would rather not. So is this true it is an item to have to pass inspection or was this overlooked during your inspection. Does the law require them?

Car is looking good. I think the main item you need is patients when it comes to paint. I will be creating a garage paint booth for my priming stage, I plan on spraying 3 to 4 coats of filler primer, so that I don't block thru to fibreglass, gel coat. block the whole car and if need be a few more coats of primer. then spray a coat of sealer primer. I've gone to all the paint shops in town and each are quoting from 5 grand to up to 10 grand just for finish paint and clear coat. not even including cut and buff. Depending on my priming skills, I may tackle the paint. worst case, sand it down and try again. thats the great part about the build, learn new skills and the pride of accomplishment.

keep up the good work.
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:15 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Markers

These are the markers that I have been looking at:
Lotus - 2008 Avora

Aston Martin - Vantage - I will be going with this set just because they are smaller
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File Type: jpg Lotus Avora.jpg (166.2 KB, 32 views)
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Build Stage: having FUN, Completed and Registered.
I SOLD MY CAR
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness.

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Old 09-15-2013, 03:27 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RF RIDER View Post

Do you have your car full registered and road worthy? reason I am asking is I am sure I read that in Ontario at least we need to have side marker lights/reflectors. I do not see any on yours.... Does the law require them?
Yes, the car is insured, and registered. I used temp. side markers for the
safety which were placed in the pockets near the front, and rear. They are
required (as well as a 3rd brake lamp). They all must light up.

Quote:
Car is looking good. ... worst case, sand it down and try again. thats the great part about the build, learn new skills and the pride of accomplishment.

keep up the good work.
Oddly enough, ever since getting the rims I've been getting a bunch of
compliments. In my opinion, the body looks terrible as-is; I'm very embarrassed
to drive it around in this condition.

I'm going to attempt the prime myself, but first I'll have to wash/degrease
the entire car, and do a proper sanding.

Thank you for the compliments in any case. I'm really looking forward to
meeting up with you again, and crusing around.
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:33 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Doug, either of those choices would look great. Vidal used a set from the
late model Mini which resemble the Evora markers.

I'm going to stick mine the pockets in the body near the wheels.

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Old 09-16-2013, 02:04 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post

Oddly enough, ever since getting the rims I've been getting a bunch of
compliments. In my opinion, the body looks terrible as-is; I'm very embarrassed
to drive it around in this condition.

.
Tino,

I feel the same way with my car and frequently finding myself starting the conversation with "I'm sorry but its not finished" but folks don't care, they just love the car. Enjoy!
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:42 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Got out for another drive today. Set the speedo for KM/H over the MPH scale.

I don't think I'll ever see 200 MPH on the streets, so changing the calibration
to Kilometers makes sense for me (less brain power required to convert from
the Yankee system while driving too ).

Here's the table that you can edit for changing the speedo cal. All of you
Canadian GTM owners might enjoy this simple mod if you own the Autometer
gauge with the miles per hour scale:



Also found out my fuel gauge needs a slight tweak. The engine started running
rough on the way home. Saw the fuel pressure dropped by 16 PSI!
By the time I rolled into the driveway, it was running like crap - good thing
she didn't leave me stranded!

She? I meant HE!
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:25 AM   #119 (permalink)
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If you need an overflow can, Mr. Gasket makes a fairly nice one for about $15. My only complaint is that the mounting hardware is lacking in comparison to the polished can, and anodized caps.
They included a worm gear clamp, and a cheap looking flat piece of drilled aluminum - no thanks. I think I'll use a stainless band clamp, or chrome bracket for an MSD coil instead.



NOw that I've had my fix kickin' around the streets, I'm going to shift focus to the doors, and getting the body primed. The last couple of days have been spent trimming the excess
from the contour of the doors. From there, I'll be sanding everything again with proper stroke patterns, and grit. I've been reading quite a bit about fiberglass prep, as well as taking
the pro advice from Steve, and Michael. Soon enough, I'll have it all looking decent with a solid primer application.

Here's where I'm at with the driver door. It shuts smoothly, but there are some waves along the seam. I'll have to be conservative with how much material is removed because the
scissor door hinge installation will probably change the gap spacing. The final trim, and fit will have to be done over the Winter.


As you can see from the swirl marks, the sanding strokes are incorrect. Why must we use a criss-cross motion? I figured small circles
would promote a smoother, and flatter finish? Does the criss-cross allow for better adhesion of the primer (like a cross-hatch will for
oil on the cylinder bore)? I can't find an answer to that question through my reading thus far.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:22 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Crosshatch or circles

Tino
The pattern of your sanding has nothing to do with how well the primer adheres by itself. If you look at the marks a DA sander leaves its a lot of little circles. The reason one sands in straight diagonal lines is most important when doing the rough bodywork and trying to make sure the panels have no waves. As you progress to finer and finer grits it's easier to see when you have removed say the 36 grit marks with the 80 grit sandpaper. If the 36 grit marks are going in one direction and you sand with the 80 grit diagonally across the 36 grit marks you will know you've sanded enough when you can no longer see the 36 grit marks. Sand with 180 diagonal across the 80 etc. If you sand in the same direction with both grits you wont be able to distinguish one from the other. Once you're down to the final sanding with 400 - 600 grit it really doesn't matter how you sand as long as you get ALL the 180 marks out. 180 marks will show in the paint. Especially on flat areas like doors.
Hope that helps
Steve
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