Bulkhead Repairs - Driver's Side - Final Stages:
Another little job was putting a temporary seal over the top of the repaired "A" pillar.
As I was finding that all the debris from cleaning the other areas of the bulkhead was going down the inside.
I have cut & shaped some modelling mesh to cover both this area and the bottom of the windscreen support sections.
One of these days I will get around to putting a layer of fibre glass over the mesh to seal it all into place.
Go Kart / Moon Rover Plans
I know there will be a shed load of bodywork / fibre glassing to do once the current metal work repairs are completed.
Others builders of this kit have suggested getting the body fixed and bonded on before worrying about restarting the engine.
However, I have always likes seeing the photos / video clips of the Go Kart stages of cars on this forum.
I also think getting the car to a stage where I could start it up and drive it would be a real big motivator for me.
EDIT - I did have a photo of the new owner of the kit car company at the "Moon Rover" stage as he called it.
However, that photo has been lost in the PhotoBucket ransom scam, so here is another builder instead.
This is the Spyder
kit based in on the Triumph Herald which is designed to keep a cut down bulkhead.
This means that the rear frame work is designed to bolt to the original door mounting points like so.
However, the rear Cordite framework will not reach this far forward.
( As it was supposed to attach to a front frame taking the place of the Spitfire bulkhead. )
Instead, it ends at the vertical angle iron you can see just at the front edge of the door opening here.
So I need to design and build a "join" between the two sections.
This is certainly a job that would be easier to do when both sections are mounted to the chassis.
For now, I am simply leaving the original mounting points alone.
Although I have covered the holes in tape so that nothing can get inside the "A" Pillars.
Heater & Dash Board Options
Another kit builder recommended a micro heater for the car to blow warm air into the foot wells.
Given the car is completely open, he says that with warm feet/legs/lap, you can add clothing for your top half.
Before I ordered one for myself, I make a cereal box match the extreme outside dimensions of the heater.
( Although given the heater's shape, it will not take up all of this space. )
I could then use the box to work out where it would fit behind the dash.
This is where the Spitfire heater was fitted and there is plenty of room around here.
Not surprising really given that this is the comparison with the original heater.
The other area I need to consider in conjunction with the heater is the dash board.
I still have the original Triumph Spitfire one from my donor car.
This would need to be modified slightly as I will have new heater controls.
I will also be fitting a battery kill switch and would like to relocate the choke lever too.
There are a number of ways I could resolve this, but I will do some mock up work before I commit to anything.
In this photo you can see a bracket below the dash that was originally connected vertically to the chassis.
( This connecting piece also doubled up as the place to fit a radio on the original Spitfire. )
I hope that I can turn this bracket 90 degrees backwards so it faces the front of the bulkhead.
As this will then become part of the structure I need to build to support the heater ducting/vents.
I'm still a long way from worrying about this at the moment, I only mention it because I've now ordered the heater.
In fact, it has since been delivered and here is everything I could possibly need to install a micro heater in my car...
Well, when I say everything, there are still a few nuts & bolts required to secure some of these things.
Anyway, that is enough of the new shiny stuff and back to working with rusty old metal I go...