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post #61 of 117 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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I went to a local fabrication shop to get an aluminum blank cut and bent for my dash. I’ll also have a bit of extra aluminum for other it’s and pieces.


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post #62 of 117 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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With the help of a friend and a couple of engine hoists I got the chassis flipped upside down and back on my dollies. This will make it a lot easier to do the work on the belly that I’m planning.
First will be to prep the outside of the cockpit; remove excess silicone, patch gaps, alcohol wash, mask and scuff.
Then two coats of Lizard Skin sound control on the outside of the cockpit aluminum followed by two coats of heat control on the firewall and tunnel.
Finally I’ll run the hard lines for the fuel and brakes.
After all that then we will get it back right-side up and work toward making a roller!

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post #63 of 117 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 01:42 AM
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That had to be a little bit of a job getting that flipped over with care. That should make coating the bottom much easier.

Jim

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post #64 of 117 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Jim.
Yeah, it was way more than a little bit of a job! I was really careful to keep the weight under control. But, for me, it was necessary. Having clear access is key for doing thorough work.

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post #65 of 117 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 12:56 PM
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Going the extra mile will pay off. Are you making a full belly pan too?
Hope this is the last time we ever see your car upside down

John

Building when I can, sigh....


Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
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First go kart Sept 19 2013


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post #66 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Lizard Skin applied

I'm really happy with the way this turned out! It was a lot of extra work but it's really gonna pay off on my first road trip!
After filling all the small gaps in the cockpit I masked it off, washed it all down with alcohol and gave it a good scuffing. I applied two coats of Lizard Skin Sound Control and two coats of Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation.
The textured surface is gonna be a real dirt magnet. I'm considering applying a Lizard Skin top coat product to the areas that show.
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post #67 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 04:53 PM
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Nice Glenn!!

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Building when I can, sigh....


Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
First start Sept. 18 2013
First go kart Sept 19 2013


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post #68 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 08:55 AM
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nice one... am sure it will pay off nicely for you..

Coupe 65 #646

Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
Delivery, Sydney - 18 August.
Fabrication and recoating complete - 25 October
Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
Engine running - October 2015
First gokart - December 2015

TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #69 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Line Routing - Looking for comment

While I'm waiting for Lizard Skin Top Coat to be delivered I'm looking into the fuel line routing. I want to be sure that they are routed safely, cleanly and out of the way. I'll be using the provided 5/16" and 1/4" hard lines for feed and return respectively.

My build is a little unconventional. It's a Gen 2 Type 65 coupe with the T-bird IRS, a 2015+ Mustang drive line and bunch of custom frame and aluminum mods in the trunk and firewall areas. The fuel tank is a custom unit from RCI with the pickups on top, forward, center of the tank. I'll build a bracket to mount the external fuel pump and filters in the space between the IRS X brace and the fuel tank.

Starting from the front the lines will go straight down the firewall next to the passenger foot box, straight back just outside the 4" main tube, then make the bend upward and run inside the 2" x 3" frame member up to the trunk floor and back just above the upper control arm mounting point.

Yes its upside down on the dollies, And yes, I'm overthinking everything! :-)
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post #70 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 04:19 AM
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Looks good to me.. In short you've marked out the same route I took.. inboard and within the line of the main rails to protect from vertical and lateral impacts, also away from the hot bits..

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Coupe 65 #646

Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
Delivery, Sydney - 18 August.
Fabrication and recoating complete - 25 October
Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
Engine running - October 2015
First gokart - December 2015

TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #71 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 12:31 PM
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I think it looks good Glenn. One thing I would recommend is to use stainless steel lines. You can get it in all different sizes. You want to get double annealed line. It bends as easy as steel. It flares good too. The reason I'm recommend this is because of the increase in ethanol that is in gasoline. Ethanol tends to cause things to rust and deteriorate. I know for a fact that GM had a problem with there fuel lines due to this. People were getting rust deposits in the top of their injectors. I'm sure other OEMs were getting it too, but I only know first hand about GM. A friend of mine had problems with his Chevy truck.

I used 1/2 OD for fuel supply and 1/4 OD for return. The reason I used such big line for supply is because I thought about running the car on E85 gas and knew I would be using more fuel, so I wanted to have the supply line big enough that I wouldn't ever have a problem.

This is the company Classic Tube

I bought straight lengths, which came in card board tubes.

I bought the line fittings from Summit racing I think.

Good luck.
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post #72 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Oops. Forgot something!

A smarter guy would have cut these notches in the rear cross member BEFORE he got the frame painted! The Rustoleum gloss black is ready!
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post #73 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Lizard Skin Topcoat applied

I decided to apply the Lizard Skin Topcoat. It has a semi-gloss finish and a deep black color that should be a good bit easier to keep clean.
Yeah, some areas came out pretty lumpy. But that's not the fault of the product. The first coat of the Lizard Skin Sound Control product went on like that because of my lousy spraying technique. The pressure was a little on the low side and a vent hole in the spray gun was plugged. Later coats went on fine, but the damage was already done.
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post #74 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimS View Post
I think it looks good Glenn. One thing I would recommend is to use stainless steel lines. You can get it in all different sizes. You want to get double annealed line. It bends as easy as steel. It flares good too. The reason I'm recommend this is because of the increase in ethanol that is in gasoline. Ethanol tends to cause things to rust and deteriorate. I know for a fact that GM had a problem with there fuel lines due to this. People were getting rust deposits in the top of their injectors. I'm sure other OEMs were getting it too, but I only know first hand about GM. A friend of mine had problems with his Chevy truck.

I used 1/2 OD for fuel supply and 1/4 OD for return. The reason I used such big line for supply is because I thought about running the car on E85 gas and knew I would be using more fuel, so I wanted to have the supply line big enough that I wouldn't ever have a problem.

This is the company Classic Tube

I bought straight lengths, which came in card board tubes.

I bought the line fittings from Summit racing I think.

Good luck.
Hey Jim.. as ever.. love your work..

Footnote.. 3/8 lines on 98 octane will provide enough flow for up to 600hp at the crank with the usual Bosch 040 style pump.. 1/2 lines will get you to 800hp+ and solve the E85 issue as well...

Cheers

Chris
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Coupe 65 #646

Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
Delivery, Sydney - 18 August.
Fabrication and recoating complete - 25 October
Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
Engine running - October 2015
First gokart - December 2015

TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #75 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the inpiut regarding the fuel lines. I’d definitely be looking at an upgrade if I were planning a power-adder, cams or any other significant mods. But I plan to run a bone stock Coyote, probably 2015 or later. At 435 HP the provided fuel lines should be adequate.
Before running the fuel lines I want to mount the pump and filters, just to be certain that there is enough room for everything. The pump should arrive any day now.
Meanwhile, I had a piece of aluminum cut and bent in the shape of the cardboard dashboard mock up that I did earlier. I applied some shelf paper to protect the surface and trimmed it to fit. More work on this will have to wait till the frame is right side up again.
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This year's RNA event supports Camp Sunshine whose mission is to provide respite for families of children with life threatening illnesses. See "Team Limer" on FB for info. Thanks!
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post #76 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Pump and Fuel Filters mounted

I want to mount the fuel pump where the noise won't intrude in the cabin. Hanging it from the passenger floor wouldn't do. But the bit of space in between the fuel tank and the differential seemed like a great spot.
I fabricated the fuel pump mount from a piece of 1/8" x 3" stock. With a little bend it puts the fuel pump near the bottom of the tank. And it's pretty well protected from damage and heat.
I fabricated a mount for the fuel filters from a piece of 1/8" x 1" stock. After a few bends and a gusset it fit the space perfectly. And it's very solid.
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Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe: Gen 2 Coyote, TKO-600, T-bird IRS with 3.55 Torsen diff.

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post #77 of 117 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Credit where Credit is Due

I should have an engine pretty soon and figured that it's time to confirm my plans for engine location and the all-important (to me, anyway) shifter location. With a little bit of searching, a little bit of math, and some digging around in SeattleDad's excellent build thread I think I have my answers.

The "Help Me Spend" build thread has become one of my go-to sources for information. Michael, I know that you sold your car a few months ago. But if you are still hanging around here, know that this guy thanks you!

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr...ld-thread.html

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post #78 of 117 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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It should be a roller soon, so it’s time to buy some shoes for this thing. I settled on Sumitomo HTR Z III tires ... 275/35-18 on 18 x 9’s and 295/30-18 in 18 x 10-1/2’s.
The stack of tires is a tall as the car!
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post #79 of 117 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 12:48 AM
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Nice wheels, I’ve always liked the 5 spokes

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Building when I can, sigh....


Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
First start Sept. 18 2013
First go kart Sept 19 2013


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post #80 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Starting on the Dash ... Two steps forward, One step back.

I needed a change of pace so I thought I'd get started on the dash. In the interest of making some progress I decided to put off my plans for a fully custom dash. For now I'm using the provided dash with some light modifications.
As many have done, I cut the top of the dash off leaving a 1" lip for the face of the dash to attach to the cross bar. I set a few #10 Rivnuts in the cross bar for attaching the dash face. I set the dash top aside. Later, I'll extend it by adding a front lip using a couple of layers of 1/16" ABS, cover it in vinyl and attach it with some Velcro. This will give easy access behind the dash and allow the entire dash face to be removable.
I enlarged and reshaped the steering column opening for the Russ Thompson steering column mod, drilled for a few extra indicator lights and made a cut out for switches. For the switches I'm using Carling Contura II Soft Touch. It's the same style switch used by my wipers, and I really like the look and feel. The placement of the switches is unconventional. But I like it ... it puts all the controls at the driver's fingertips.
I covered the dash face in a nice flat finish vinyl from a fabric store and started installing the goodies! All went well until I got to the tach and speedo. Yikes! They fall right through the holes! It had been a long time since I read that part of the manual. It took a few minutes for me to discover that I covered the dash before attaching the mounting plate for the Autometer gauges. Ugh! I'm considering workarounds ... I think I'll be able to fix it with a few ABS trim rings.
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post #81 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 01:42 PM
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Crap, hate it when that happens!
Can you put a plate behind the dash with the proper sized holes also covered in the same vinyl?

John

Building when I can, sigh....


Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
First start Sept. 18 2013
First go kart Sept 19 2013


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post #82 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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That’s better!
After some fitting up I wrapped the provided gauge mounting plate with matching vinyl. Later I’ll replace the cheesy screws with something nice.
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post #83 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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A good couple of days

This Sunday my friend Bob came by and helped with a ton of stuff. Except for a few needed parts we pretty much wrapped up the brake lines and the fuel lines (from the tank to the firewall).
With an engine hoist borrowed from yet another friend we flipped the chassis back to right-side-up.
First we picked it up off the dollies from each side ...

We picked up one side and lowered the other until it was hanging from only one hoist. Then swapped positions (that's my buddy, Bob) ...


And we continued to roll it until it was right side up.


After a run to NAPA and Bernheisel Racing (great guys), a local race car shop I had the parts to complete the brake lines and to finish the fuel lines from the tank to the firewall. Done!

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post #84 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 03:26 PM
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I bet that was a bit of a nail biter :-)

Nice work.
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post #85 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension Progress

With the exception of a couple of parts that are tagged, the front end is installed and torqued. This includes the steering shaft and the brakes.


Also I got the rear installed and tightened. The brakes are torqued, but the rest is just "roller tight" because a lot of it will need to be loosened for final alignment. This is the Lincoln/T-bird IRS where the alignment is done by adjusting the rod ends. Aligning the rear is going to be a real pain! I imagine that the Mustang based IRS is a little easier.

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Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe: Gen 2 Coyote, TKO-600, T-bird IRS with 3.55 Torsen diff.

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post #86 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimS View Post
I bet that was a bit of a nail biter :-)
Thanks, Jim.

It actually wasn't too bad. I guess I learned a lot from the suspense of putting it on it's roof a few weeks ago. I was able to find a good balance point and could adjust it pretty accurately with the ratchet straps. The load was always balanced and under control ... except for the moment when one side dropped the last three inches onto the dollies! One of the hooks slipped because of the change in lifting angle as we rotated the frame.
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Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe: Gen 2 Coyote, TKO-600, T-bird IRS with 3.55 Torsen diff.

This year's RNA event supports Camp Sunshine whose mission is to provide respite for families of children with life threatening illnesses. See "Team Limer" on FB for info. Thanks!

Last edited by Gbeck; 09-06-2018 at 10:57 PM.
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post #87 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Update

Here are a few pics of progress before life got in the way again. I hope to get back to it again in a few weeks.

The front suspension and steering are torqued down and ready to roll. I have not attempted to do an alignment yet.


Since I'm pretty convinced that the plan for under car exhaust is going to work, this spot is ideal for a battery box. I'm using a weld-in battery box sitting on top of the 1-1/2" round tube at the front of the passenger foot box. With a couple of gussets below it's very solid!


The Vintage Air HVAC box is nestled into it's new home.


I really like how the fuel line plumbing worked out. The fuel pump and two filters are nestled between the IRS cage and the fuel tank. I'll fab up that final trunk floor panel after I determine the final position for the tank. I think I can drop the forward side a bit to get a flat trunk floor.


The half shafts just clicked into place. Nice! The rear suspension is roughly aligned and tightened down, ready for final alignment.


After finishing the installation of the rear brakes I threw on the wheels for a quick clearance check. All's good!


And I just couldn't help myself but to pretend to bang a few gears! Vroom! Vroom!


Oh, one last thing. This little baby needs to be made ready for it's new home.

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Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe: Gen 2 Coyote, TKO-600, T-bird IRS with 3.55 Torsen diff.

This year's RNA event supports Camp Sunshine whose mission is to provide respite for families of children with life threatening illnesses. See "Team Limer" on FB for info. Thanks!
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post #88 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 12:40 PM
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Great work! Not a Coupe owner but still appreciate the build detail.
I like seeing what other people are working on here at the site.

Can't wait to see the final outcome!
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2006 Stock Challenge Car. I'm removing parts, not adding them!
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post #89 of 117 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 04:29 PM
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Looks like it is coming along nicely. What did you use on the firewall panels?
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post #90 of 117 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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I used Lizard Skin products on the firewall. I applied two coats of the sound control product, two coats of the heat control product and a coat of their semi-glass top coat.

I'm Glenn. Find me at "Team Limer" on Facebook

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2006 Mustang GT
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Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe: Gen 2 Coyote, TKO-600, T-bird IRS with 3.55 Torsen diff.

This year's RNA event supports Camp Sunshine whose mission is to provide respite for families of children with life threatening illnesses. See "Team Limer" on FB for info. Thanks!
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