EdwardbĚs Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build - Page 6 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 60Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #151 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-07-2018, 01:25 PM
Charter Member
 
theboppshop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Covington, GA
Posts: 2,564
Paul,

I've been wanting to refurbish my dash and after seeing your work with the CF vinyl, I'm going to try that on my dash. Thanks for the inspiration!

Garry

edwardb thanked this.

I sure miss my coupe!

F5R1004503SP 2004 Challenge Car, 331 Stroker

Coupe # 031 with 422" Windsor Stroker.(dash autographed by Peter Brock)***SOLD***
Mk III # 5021 ***SOLD***
Unique 427 Roadster with 482"FE by Southern Automotive ***SOLD***
theboppshop is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #152 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Panels and Insulation

Finally getting around to another update. Family time and out cruising cuts into available time. But all good. Last few days have been productive. With all my panels back from powder coat, finally time to get serious with them. First took a bunch of stuff out of the chassis. Wiring harness except the rear harness, dash, pedal box, steering column, and A/C evaporator. Need as much as I can out of the way for panel install and partial Lizard Skin spray. More on that later. Then started on the cockpit installing panels for the final time.

There are occasional threads in the forums about using silicone sealant as an adhesive for the panels, as the manual says. Some think a stronger material is needed. Others donít want anything silicone around their build for fear it could contaminate the body and subsequent paint. Others find it a pain to clean up, which it sorta is. Iíve used plain old GE silicone from the big box stores on my previous builds and didnít have any complaints. Iíve had to remove a panel or two in the past, after the usual rivet and silicone, and itís not easy to do without damaging the panel. So, it does seem to be strong enough for this purpose. But never being one to leave well enough alone, plus like to try different things, I went for one of the alternative adhesives that has been suggested. There are several, but I chose Sikaflex-221 Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant. Available from Amazon for a little under $10 for a 10.1 oz cartridge. Just about through the first tube, and have several observations, all good I guess. Iíve not done any testing, and donít plan to. But all indications are itís stronger than silicone, if thatís important. Still a little flexible when cured but seems more substantial. Definitely bonds well. Probably the main thing I like is how easy it cleans up. A little mineral spirits on a paper towel and it wipes right off without leaving a residue like silicone. It does start setting up pretty quickly, but still can be cleaned in a reasonable time. My only regret is I chose the aluminum grey color thinking it would match my powder coated panels. But itís quite a bit lighter, so I need to make sure every trace of squeeze-out is cleaned up. In hindsight, I would have chosen black. Probably will get another tube for the all black radiator tunnel.

I have a number of cockpit pieces installed. The two transmission tunnel covers will be removable, as already mentioned. The rear outside cockpit corners donít go in until the body is on. The front tunnel sides will get riveted when the footboxes are installed.



I prefer to not put rivets into the seat pan. Certainly all the chassis members all around it, but not the pan itself. Just donít like the rivets sticking through the underside of the pan. (My OCD at work againÖ) What I do is put plenty of adhesive on the pan and after putting in all the other rivets, weigh it down with a cinder block. I let that sit for 24 hours or so, and the panel is firmly attached. The seat bolts will add another layer of attachment when installed. Pretty glamorous picture of the cider block doing its thing.


Another small detail is the rear harness through the aluminum panels. As I recall, this isnít noted in the manual. And isnít cut in any of the panels. I added a cutout in the top of the DS trans front tunnel side. Put a piece of wiring protector on the cutout, and there you go. Right now has the rear harness and the rear brake line going through. Will add the clutch hydraulic line when the engine is installed, and then seal it up with some caulking.


Now for sound/heat insulation. Iíve sprayed Lizard Skin heat and sound materials on all my builds, and have been satisfied with the results. As with most spraying jobs, there are hours spent on masking and minutes spent spraying. As I mentioned before, the Gen 3 Coupe with the space frame has even more obstacles to deal with, mainly in the footbox area. Rather than trying to mask it, Iím going to take a hybrid approach. Iím using stick-on sound/heat insulation products on the footboxes, and Lizard Skin on the rest. Iíve not used these materials before, so spent quite a while looking at the options. Both on our forums and elsewhere. There are a bunch of choices! And the costs are all over the map. I ended up doing a hybrid here too. I was very impressed with everything I read about Second Skin Damplifier Pro. Gets great reviews. Isn't the cheapest, but also isn't the most expensive. Itís primarily for sound, and is the first layer used. I wanted to add another layer for heat. There I chose to use Dynamat 1/8-inch Dynaliner. It has an adhesive backing, where the similar product from Second Skin did not. I found a couple very positive reviews using this combination, so not an original idea. Ordered the required materials and have been working on it.

My strategy is to mount all the insulation materials on the loose panels before installation. Then mount and done. So first thing, traced all the chassis members and overlaps on the inside of the affected panels. Total of 15 (so far). Then I used blue masking tape along all the marked lines. I found it easier to see and work with. Then made patterns for all the pieces out of Ram Board. If youíre not familiar with this material, itís sold at Home Depot (and Iím sure lots of other places) and is used for floor protection on job sites. Itís just thick enough to make great patterns. Way better than chasing around thin Kraft paper or too small file folders. Only available in a 50-foot roll, so will last a long time. With all the patterns, started cutting and applying the Damplifier Pro, which is now basically complete for all the pieces. Interesting and tough material to deal with. At least for this first-timer. I found a straight edge and single-edge razer blades to be the best for cutting. But went through a bunch of blades because it dulls them fast. Read all the warnings about the sharp edges. But no bloodshed. At least this time through. The material is butyl with an aluminum layer. Really sticky and gummy stuff. But apparently doesnít smell like tar based products. Here are three representative pieces with the first layer applied:


With that done, started on the second layer of Dynamat Dynaliner. Itís way easier to work with and should go quickly. I only have the same three pieces done so far. Should finish the rest tomorrow.


Then will start installing the footboxes, and also get the rear hatch area done. Still a ways to go and a bunch of details to finish. But hopefully will be spraying Lizard Skin in the not too distant future. Than a whole bunch of stuff starts going into the chassis for the last time.

One other comment about insulation. Obviously, my approach is to put the insulation on the inside of the footboxes, plus the balance of the cockpit and hatch area. An alternate approach, and used frequently especially for the coupe, is to put the materials on the outside of the engine facing panels. Especially in the areas directly adjacent to the headers. Certainly a valid approach, and arguably easier than how I'm doing the footboxes. I just prefer the clean look of the powder coated panels in the engine compartment.

Some of you may have seen Mark Gearhartís post on the forum about receiving one of the first of six Gen 3 Coyote crate motors. Didnít explain specifically, but apparently an early release for those in the industry because theyíre still not officially released. But the August promise still seems on track and Iíll be ordering mine as soon as possible.

chrisarella thanked this.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #153 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-26-2018, 01:23 PM
Senior Member
 
luey2009's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: rochester ny
Posts: 426
what a great build! I love your details!! cant wait to see the finished car
edwardb thanked this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

FFR #7815 mk4 complete kit ordered 4/23/12, kit completion date 5/26/12,delivered 6/3/12,roller w/lights 9/15/12, motor installed 11/3/12,first start 11/24/12,first go cart 3/30/13,completed 8/10/13.Graduation 10/8/13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
luey2009 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #154 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-27-2018, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Footbox Insulation

Finished the two layers of footbox insulation today. Was pretty tedious work. But I kept telling myself how much easier this was than trying to mask and spray these panels if they were mounted on the chassis. Plus there's no way I'd be able to get up into all the nooks and crannies like this. I'm really hopeful this will do a good job on the heat and sound for the footboxes. Have test fit most of the pieces and have a little adjustment to make in one place where I didn't allow for the pedal box mounting bracket. But an easy fix. Will starting mounting them for good tomorrow. You can see in the pictures I also decided now was a good time to mount the A/C and heater bulkhead fittings. They have 1-1/8 inch nuts on the inside, and easy to reach them now. Still a couple small pieces to insulate. Will do those once all the panels are mounted. One other small detail I'll mention. When I was tracing the frame members onto the panels, I noted where there were gaps or openings (like where frame members intersected, etc.) and adjusted the patterns accordingly. Should help get those openings filled. Planning to add seam sealer or something similar. But this will give something for support rather than just a bare opening.

Also today received notice of an incoming FedEx from Factory Five. My last POL item! It's the long lost clear Coupe headlight covers. Apparently they changed vendors and took some time to sort out. No big deal and not holding anything up. But kind of a milestone. Kit is now 100% received.



Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #155 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 06:15 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: 7 Crestview Avenue, Medway, MA 02053
Posts: 2,399
Is it something I said?

Nice work as usual!

I'm curious though, is there some reason you did not go with Bostik:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/?s=...t_type=product

Or Quadmat:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...on-cushioning/

Just wondering as usual how to motivate people to order from Breeze. I mean we are here ready willing and able with a curated selection of parts and supplies for the very specific market of the FFR Roadster and Coupe of items that I find best-in-class, with fair prices and service as good as any and better than most yet sometimes it feels like there is something I am doing that repels customers. Input appreciated.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.
Mark Reynolds is offline  
post #156 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
Nice work as usual!

I'm curious though, is there some reason you did not go with Bostik:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/?s=...t_type=product

Or Quadmat:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...on-cushioning/

Just wondering as usual how to motivate people to order from Breeze. I mean we are here ready willing and able with a curated selection of parts and supplies for the very specific market of the FFR Roadster and Coupe of items that I find best-in-class, with fair prices and service as good as any and better than most yet sometimes it feels like there is something I am doing that repels customers. Input appreciated.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the compliment. I'm not too sure what to say about the rest. I've ordered a lot of stuff from you over the years, and the quality, service, and instructions have always been top notch. For sure you're doing nothing to repel me, and based on other comments and threads by other forum members, you're one of the most highly rated forum vendors. I direct builders to you all the time. I have > $700 of parts from you on this build, and have used you extensively on my other builds as well. I'm sure the two products you recommended are first rate, I just chose other stuff (one was also a forum vendor) and I'm not going to try to defend my selections. But certainly nothing negative towards you.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 07-29-2018 at 03:10 AM.
edwardb is online now  
post #157 of 294 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 05:04 PM
Charter Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Bob McLaughlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tequesta, Florida
Posts: 2,642
Ed,
Very nicely said.
Bob Mac
edwardb thanked this.
Bob McLaughlin is offline  
post #158 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Panels Done for Now

I’ve had some productive build sessions since the last update. As of today, all the panels I’m planning to install are done. As I’ve mentioned before, the Coupe has a number of pieces that aren’t installed until after the body is installed. So I have those yet to go. Plus I’m leaving the fixed portion of the footbox tops and firewall off for now. They’re easy adds later and I want the additional access for the upcoming wiring, HVAC installation, etc. Also still not permanently attaching the center fill piece I made for the engine compartment. I don’t see any reason why it won’t work or fit. But waiting until I have the engine and everything else installed just to be sure.

Related to this, and I’ll mention it here, the hatch sides are two of the major pieces that don’t go in until after the body is on. The instructions show the edge of these panels going under the hatch floor. That’s fine, and what I’m planning to do. Be careful to not have adhesive under this edge of the floor. I actually kept it an inch or two away on the cross pieces as well. I’m able to left the edge enough to get the pieces under. Also on this point, I’m not planning to use adhesive on these pieces or the other pieces, like the outer rear cockpit corners, that are also added after the body is on. Although I’m not sure why it would be necessary to take the body off once everything is done, don’t want to make it harder than it needs to be. The nose would come off pretty easily, e.g. for major engine work or removal. The back half affected by all these pieces probably unlikely.

The heat and sound insulation I added to the footbox pieces, shown in the last update, all worked out pretty well with just a couple minor trims. Real happy with how that turned out. For the exposed rivets in the engine compartment, I painted them with matching Duplic-Color spray. Same stuff I used on the #8674 build. Kind of a tedious (and maybe a little silly) process of taking the rivets apart, lining the heads up in a pre-drilled block, spraying them after a light sand and clean, and then re-installing the pins. For the most part, they held up to the assembly process pretty well. The pneumatic puller seems to be easier on them than the manual one. But still some would get a little scratched or marked. Spent a little time with an artist brush tonight and touched up those that needed it and I’m done with that. Lots of pictures.







We all know what I need to put in that big empty space in the last picture. Come on Gen 3 Coyote. With the dropped box and hatch floor installed, finally permanently installed the gas tank. Felt good getting everything hooked up and connected for real. Very briefly put power on the fuel pump wires from the harness at the dash. It’s alive. Not supposed to run those dry, but a second or two shouldn’t hurt anything. Also read the ohms out of the fuel level sender. Where it should be for an empty tank.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 08-02-2018 at 11:40 AM.
edwardb is online now  
post #159 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 04:22 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Panels Done for Now (continued)

These are views from the underside. Shows that nice big tunnel for the trans. The T-56 fits pretty easily. Also shows how it looks to have all the panels coated. Thereís often debate on the forum about which panels to finish on these builds. Some say only what shows from the engine compartment. I say everything shows. Well, I guess if you have a lift and care about such things.



With all that done, installed the steering column and the brake/clutch reservoirs. Hopefully both also for the last time. Iím going to bleed the brakes tomorrow. Anxious to get my lines all checked out.


Finally, broke open the carpeting box for the first time. A lot of pieces in there! Makes sense since thereís carpet for the entire cockpit and hatch area. Would be like a Roadster with added trunk pieces. I checked the fit of most of the pieces and looks pretty good. I donít have all the details yet, but I donít see any glaring raw edges like with the Roadster. Thatís nice. I think Iíll add a couple pieces in the footwells to cover the square tubes in there. The inside is already covered, and think Iíll add the other two. One hint. Open the box and lay out all the pieces well in advance of installation. That way the bends and creases from being jammed in the box should flatten out. I've got them all stacked up in the basement and they should be good and ready when I am.

Next major step, after a few more details, is masking and Lizard Skin application.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #160 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Brakes Bled

Don't plan on daily updates but just finished bleeding the brakes for the first time, as mentioned in yesterday's update. Kind of a big deal. The CliffsNotes version is it's done, working, and no leaks so far. For the whole story, I used my previously successful pressure bleed process. Hasn't let me down yet and doesn't require a helper. I've always used the CNC reservoirs, and came across their pressure cap I think based on another forum post some years ago. I used the Tilton reservoirs on this build due to space limitations, but still wanted to use the same process. So bought an extra cap and added the Schrader valve to it. I didn't plan ahead and didn't want to run around finding one, so just "borrowed" the valve off the CNC cap. Screwed it into the plastic cap with a little sealant and it seem to hold the low pressure required just fine. I used the same Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluid I've used on all my builds. Stock item at our local Advance, not expensive, and supposed to be good fluid.

The process I use is first do a "bench bleed" with temporary lines from the MC's back to the reservoirs. With fluid covering the end of the lines, pump the pedal until there's a full flow of fluid back into the reservoirs. Some have suggested this step isn't necessary when pressure bleeding. But it's the process I've used and not difficult, so sticking with it. With that done and the actual brake lines back on the MC's, start the actual bleeding. I turned my compressor down to 5/6/7 PSI, and used that to first pressurize the rear reservoir. It doesn't take a lot and you don't want to over pressurize. Then to the right rear caliper and attach a line to the outside top bleeder. The big Wilwoods have a top bleeder on each caliper for the rear brakes. With the line into my official brake bleeding Ball jar, open the bleeder. Note at no time during this method of bleeding do you pump the brake pedal while the reservoir is under pressure. The reservoir may need to be pressurized several times on the first try as the lines fill with fluid. But then fluid with bubbles and eventually no bubbles. Repeat for the inner caliper. Then to the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. Keep pressure in the appropriate reservoir. Also watch the fluid level, refilling as needed. If it runs empty, then you'd have to start the whole process over.

Once completed the first time, I didn't have a completely hard pedal. So ran around the bleed process again. Only takes 10 minutes or so. Found a few bubbles still in the rear lines. First time that's happened, but no big deal. Then the pedal was hard just like it should be. Tested the brakes by having my shop assistant (my wife...) press the pedal as I turned each wheel. All grab hard and release properly. Hooray! Held the pedal down hard for a minute or so and it seems to be holding fine. Checked all my fittings and no sign of any leaks. That's a relief because I really don't want to mess around (again) with those SS lines and fittings. Obviously I'll keep checking, but looks good for now. Since I had all the bleeding gear out, went around one more time and bled each again for good measure. Didn't get a single bubble anywhere. So I think it's good to go. Topped off the reservoirs and cleaned everything up and put away. Man I don't like working with brake fluid. Glad it's done for now. Little more ahead for the clutch, but that should be simple with a single bleed.

Quick picture of the Tilton homemade pressure cap. Obviously now removed and replaced with the real cap.



chrisarella thanked this.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 08-02-2018 at 08:52 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #161 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Seat Installation

Today I finished how I’m going to install the seats. I wanted to get this done before starting the cockpit insulation while it’s easy to see everything. Plus I need to sort out my heated seat wiring before spraying on the insulation. My normal method is to bury the wires in the corner of the floor/trans tunnel on each side. My previous builds have all been the standard Roadster seats where the bottom cushion swings up exposing the seat frame for easy access. Plus I haven’t done sliders before. Only bolted directly to the cockpit floor. With the Corbeau seats I showed earlier, no option for either. With them in place, it became very obvious reaching under the seats to install mounting bolts would be challenging if not impossible. Especially for the rear bolts. I decided to mount them with 3/8"-16 button head alloy steel screws from the bottom into the cockpit with nuts fixed to the slider frame. After looking at several options, decided to use 3/8"-16 weld nuts from McMaster (where else?) located and riveted to the frame. These: https://www.mcmaster.com/#90955a123/=1e1xnql.

So the challenge was to establish the locations for the mounting bolts, taking into account the seat positions, slider frames, and acceptable mounting locations on the chassis. There is a seat pan welded into the chassis. But how to find the proper locations? After staring at it for a while (I do that…) decided to make cardboard patterns for each side that exactly indexed to the slider frame on three sides and extended 6-8 inches out the front. Then with the seats in the appropriate locations, marked the position of the patterns with tape. They were out in front of the seats and could be reached. Then took the seats out and used the patterns to determine the locations of each mounting bolt. As it turned out, I was able to get 3 of the 4 into the seat pan on each side. But one (the front inside on both sides) needed to go through a frame rail.

With the locations determined, drilled the cockpit floor, matching locations in the slider frame, installed the weld nuts onto the frames, and a little while ago fit everything together. Success! I’m very happy with how this turned out, and will be relatively easy to install and remove since all four bolts are accessible from under the car. The nuts move around slightly in the retainers, so makes getting them started a little less critical. Once in and tight, the seats are rock solid. Both seats will slide forward six inches or so. But not sure how often that will be required. Even for me (5’10”) the rear position on the driver’s seat is fine. Basically the same exact distance from the steering wheel and pedals as my Roadster. Side note: These seats work very well for me (discussed before) but for taller builders may not be the best choice. Different seats could locate another couple inches at least further back than these. Another side note: Found the passenger seat was most comfortable turned slightly to the outside. The passenger footbox is slightly offset to the right, and found the seating was more comfortable slightly favored to that side. Barely noticeable. But makes a difference. And yet another side note, the seat location, the location of the underlying seat pan, plus the seat type I selected, all work together to make an anti-sub belt not practical. I'm looking right now at Schroth Profi II ASM belts. Designed to be 4-point while still providing anti-submarine function. Nice but pricey to say the least. Trying to sell my kit provided Simpsons if anyone is interested.

With that, some pictures. This is the pattern attached to the passenger seat and the resulting index marks after determining the desired location. Same process for the drivers side.


These are the two patterns (made from Ram Board, mentioned in a previous update) in their desired locations. Marked the location of the seat frame, tracks, underlying seat pan and frame rails, etc. From that, determined the four mounting locations for each side.



Slider frames with the holes drilled in the frame and cockpit floor, and all eight weld nuts installed. First time checking the fit and everything aligned. Whew! I did throw a little rattle can black on the weld nuts before riveting them in place. Not visible, but plain steel.



Seats installed now in their final locations.



One of the interesting challenges of the Coupe is climbing in and out. Efforts to date have been a little clumsy, to say the least. Today I learned (and am relieved!) that having the seats bolted down makes a big difference. Passenger side is relatively easy. Driver’s side would be easier without the steering wheel (I can see why some guys go with a removable wheel) but I can manage OK. Obviously it will also make a difference with the body, the doors, etc. But way easier getting in and out with fixed seats versus when they were loose and sliding around.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #162 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 06:55 PM
Senior Member
 
2FAST4U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 29,175
Wow! This build is beyond awesome!
edwardb thanked this.

Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, Webers, T-5, IRS, Vintage Wheels pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards
2FAST4U is offline  
post #163 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Tires Received

Shortest update in my history. Heard from several sources that my planned BFGoodrich G-Force Rival S tires were in short supply. Have them on #8674 and am happy with them, so not interested in finding something else at this point. Took a few tries, but found the sizes I wanted at Tire Rack and today they're in my garage. P275/35ZR-18 for the front, P315/30ZR-18 for the rear. Will get them mounted and I'll have a roller.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #164 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Roller and Harness

Another eventful week or so on the build. First up was finally finishing all the panel installations for now plus getting all the gaps and openings filled, e.g. around frame members, door hinges, etc. Lots of different products possible for gap filling. For #8674, with the special white and glimmer frame and panels, found a product called Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty. Just so happened to come in white and grey (very dark, almost black) so perfect for the Anniversary Roadster build. The stuff’s been around for a long time I guess. I really like how it worked, so went back to that product on this build. Used the grey which blends well with the gloss black frame and dark grey powder coated panels. I mentioned before that where I pre-installed the sound and heat insulation, I left the products long where there were gaps and openings to fill. That worked perfect as a backer for the Marine-Tex. Mostly it’s kind of like caulking a bathtub or whatever. Except I use masking tape to keep it from going everywhere. Process: Mask around the area, glop in the filler, smooth with precision digit (e.g. my finger), and pull the tape. Little tedious, but everything is done. Also I installed the seat heater wires. As I've done before, glued into the inside corners of the cockpit and up the footbox tunnel on each side. They're be buried by the insulation and carpet. Next step is to spray Lizard Skin, which I plan to start next week. The usual process. Multiple hours masking, minutes to spray. I’ll do the sound product on one day, and the heat product on the second.

In the meantime, couple other updates. I showed my new tires in a previous post. Today I was able to get them mounted, balanced, and on the chassis. As always, a bit of a story. For #8674, I had the same exact rims and almost the same tires. Took them to a tire store that was highly recommended. They immediately got hung up on the valve stems and tried quite unsuccessfully to install bolt in stems and scratched up one of the rims in the process. I’ve posted about this a couple times before. After a call to Factory Five, right from the store, received instructions to use plain old TR413 rubber pull through stems. With a little lube and a twist, installed fine. They got the job done, but I wasn’t too happy with them and I think they were happy to see me go. Obviously, wasn’t interested in going back this time. Took the tires and rims to my local big chain tire store. The guy there was very friendly and helpful, but didn’t want to install the tires because of the rims. They don’t have touchless equipment, and he pretty much promised they would scratch the rims. So did some more checking and ended up at a high-end shop that our club visited a couple years ago. They’re used to Ferrari’s, Lambos, Bimmers, etc. but were happy to do mine. They have a nearly new Corghi touchless tire wheel mounting machine (made in Italy, approved for Ferrari ) and also a pretty new and modern Hunter Road Force wheel balancer. When I explained about the TR413 valve stems (didn't want to repeat that problem again...) the guy immediately understood and said "Yea, just like a Ferrari." Have to like that. Got to watch the whole time, which I found very interesting and the guy doing the work was super careful. For a couple of the tires, he broke the bead and rotated the tires on the wheels to reduce the balance weights required. It worked. Nice. The price was less than the quote I had from the big chain store. Got them home and mounted. Now we’re getting somewhere. Finally a roller. The 275's in front look like they're going to fit just fine.




Another open topic has been the seat harnesses. Of course my kit came with the usual Simpson 5-point harness I’ve used previously and most other builders do as well. I’ve always used the 5th anti-submarine belt on previous builds. For some seats and some installations, they don’t fit too well and people leave them out. Not a good idea IMO. Early on I realized the Corbeau seats I selected weren’t going to play nice with the anti-submarine belt. Plus where the seats ended up the steel seat pan wasn’t available for mounting. Early in the build thread another forum member suggested I look at Schroth Profi ASM harnesses. Over the last couple of weeks I did and short version, have them and test mounted. These are designed to be 4-point and still provide anti-submarine protection. Their website shows how it works, crash tests, etc. Pretty interesting. Shopped around and found the best price for their Schroth Profi II ASM FE product. These have a Push-Button Cam lock which is really nice. Note they also have to be sided. So there is a different part number for the driver and passenger side. They come in several colors. I chose red. Big surprise. Now I’m fully committed. Mocked them up today and I’m very impressed. I’ll do the wrap on the roll bar when it’s time for final assembly. I was able to sell my NIB Simpsons for a decent price on the forum, so that helped offset some of the cost. But they still needed another chunk of change. They’re very high quality, made in Germany, and not cheap to say the least. Once again, what budget? Couple pics:



Checked in with my contact at Ford Performance again earlier this week. Still very promising the Gen 3 crate Coyote will be released to the general public by the end of August. Looks like the timing is going to work as I’ve been hoping. Tomorrow is the Woodward Dream Cruise here in SE Michigan, projected at 1 million participants and more than 40,000 cars of every shape and size. If you're a car person, you probably would like it. If not, it's just one big giant traffic jam and loud party. Many that don't participate leave town this week. Too bad. Our club has an event right in the heart of everything with lots happening. Weather looks promising, so looking forward to it as always.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #165 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:40 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: GrandLedge MI
Posts: 555
Looking Good!

Jim

FFR Coupe # 487
Eaton Super Charged 306 SBF, T5 G-Force, IRS.
JimS Custom made headers, Mufflers, SC Intake, Power Windows, Dash board, ETC... :-)
JimS is offline  
post #166 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Lizard Skin

Today I finished spraying Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation and got everything de-masked. There’s no sugar-coating it. Lizard Skin is a lot of work. I really like the final result, so stayed focused on that. Takes a while to get everything properly masked, then two separate days of spraying (24 hours between the sound and heat products), then clean everything up. I’ve done the previous Roadsters in my garage. Even though I was careful, and spread lots of drop clothes, still managed to sling the stuff all over the place including on the walls on the other side of the garage. The undercoat gun used for this application, along with the jelly like viscosity of the material, makes it interesting. So this time I chose to spray outside on my driveway on a great big tarp. The backdrop was the woods along the side of my driveway. So not too worried about that. Was a good plan until zero chance of precipitation turned into a shower just as I was pushing the finished chassis back into the garage. Didn’t hurt anything but would have been a disaster if 20-30 minutes earlier.

As far as the actual process, I followed Lizard Skin’s instructions, as I have before. I did a write-up a few years ago. Pretty much followed my own recommendations. https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...xperience.html. The Coupe is a little challenging, as I’ve mentioned before, because of the number of panels that don’t get installed until after the body is on. Plus there’s the roll cage to mask off. In a previous update, I described using stick-on materials in the footwells. So the Lizard Skin application was the balance of the cockpit, the hatch area, and the loose pieces to be installed later. I sprayed two coats of sound material on everything yesterday.Then 2 coats of heat material in the cockpit and loose cockpit parts and one coat in the hatch area and loose hatch parts. I’ve got just enough left over from the 2 gallon bucket of each product to spray the body headliner area. Would like to cut down on sound and mostly heat by spraying there when I get to body work.

That’s about it. Here are a bunch of pictures. First scuffed up my nice pretty powder coat where the Lizard Skin would be applied. Before anyone questions, the other side in all cases is still shiny new powder coat and in my world is showing. I used stretch wrap film around the roll bars. That worked pretty well and I think was easier then a lot of masking tape or paper. At the last minute, decided to also put some stretch wrap film around my brand new tires since they would be rolling around where I was spraying. Glad I did. They picked up a lot of overspray material. The rest of the masking was the usual mixture of tape, paper, etc. Those are the wires for my heated seats that are wrapped and hanging out of the way.





Out on the driveway while spraying:


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 08-28-2018 at 09:45 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #167 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Lizard Skin (continued)

Finished product. You can kind of see where the rain drops hit. May go away once it’s completely dry. Or not. Don't think it's an issue.





Now onward to electrical, engine, etc. And finally can start leaving things in once installed.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #168 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 11:09 AM
Senior Member
 
Gbeck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Palmyra, PA
Posts: 296
Garage
Thumbs up Nicely done!

I'm really impressed by how neat, tidy and well thought out your work is!
The Lizard Skin application is a good example. I didn't mask as thoroughly as you did, expecting this fairly heavy material to drop to the ground. Instead, it wafted in the air and got on everything!
Your application is neat and consistent. Don't sweat a few rain drops!
Experience shows. Thanks for sharing!
edwardb thanked this.

I'm Glenn. Find me at "Team Limer" on Facebook

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2006 Mustang GT
Rally North America "Team Limer".

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe: Gen 2 Coyote, TKO-600, T-bird IRS with 3.55 Torsen diff.

This year's RNA event supports Camp Sunshine whose mission is to provide respite for families of children with life threatening illnesses. See "Team Limer" on FB for info. Thanks!
Gbeck is offline  
post #169 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Gen 3 Coyote in the House

Look what showed up in my garage workshop today.


If you've been following this build thread, no secret my goal has been to use the new Gen 3 Coyote crate. Over the months I’ve been following the progress closely as Ford Performance prepared for its release. I was able to establish a contact at Ford Performance who has been very gracious to let me know the status whenever I asked. They are still a couple weeks away from general public release. But late last week I was given the opportunity to purchase a Gen 3 engine and control pack in advance of the general release. Working through a dealer I completed the deal. No surprise the Gen 3 is more expensive. Yesterday the control pack was delivered. Today the engine itself. I’m just starting to digest the new instructions and what differences I’ve uncovered so far. But thought I'd throw some pictures out there. My plan right now is to drop just the engine into the Coupe chassis, like I did with #8674, to determine and finalize the best routing and layout for everything. I’ll get going on that right away.

The control pack is pretty similar to the Gen 2. Same PDB and a lot of the same connections. Same exact DBW pedal. Just one clutch switch like the later Gen 2’s. Combined ODB2 plug and MIL also like later Gen 2’s. And also simpler power connection, also as I believe is on later Gen 2’s. Differences I’ve noticed so far: The overall harness is much simpler and shorter than the early Gen 2 I have in #8674. Should fit without a lot of extra. The pigtail connection has been slimmed down to just three wires. Fuel pump, start sense, ignition sense. Still no tach wire. I asked Ford about this and they told me starting in 2015 the PCM’s didn’t have a proper tach signal for aftermarket gauges. So back to tapping one of the coil wires like before. The O2 sensors have their own harness. Unlike the Gen 2 that were attached to the engine. The instructions describe setting the fuel regulator at 65 PSI vs. 55 on the previous models. I’m guessing because of the added direct injection? But it has its own pump on the engine. Who knows. One big difference is the Bosch PCM vs the Continental PCM from before. My old company lost the contract I guess. I didn’t put the two side-by-side. But it does appear slightly larger. From what I hear at Ford Performance, a lot going on there compared to before with the additions to the Gen 3. I’ll describe more as I learn more and proceed with the installation. But here’s a pic with the parts received. The stock air box pieces are still in the box. Other than the MAF sensor, nothing usable. Too bad.


The engine itself I’d seen before at Autorama and also posted pictures. But a little different now that it’s actually in my garage. Not a lot to say at this point since I literally just unwrapped it a couple hours ago. Nice to see Ford shipped it with a proper engine cradle vs. blocks on the skid. Some new plumbing to figure out. Looks like the CMCV setup is plumbed differently. That was a subject of a bunch of forum posts with the Gen 2. Looks like we’ll get to start that again! Obviously the top of the heads are now completely covered with wiring, plumbing, etc. because of the DI. Most have seen the new UFO looking engine cover for the Gen 3. Will think about what to do after it’s in the chassis. One major thing I noticed, and I hadn’t learned about this before, is that the 2018 Mustang manual setup has a dual mass flywheel and twin disc clutch. You can see the different flywheel in the pics. Will have to figure out what this means. Nice upgrade, but hopefully doesn’t affect my already on-hand QuickTime bell housing and Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing. I purchased the Coyote engine lift brackets offered on the forum by TD Motion. Decided those would work better than the homemade ones I used before. Just bolted them on and they fit perfectly. Here are pictures and will provide more updates later as I dig into it.






Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 08-29-2018 at 05:28 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #170 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Gen 3 Coyote Fitment

Have spent some hours since checking how things fit after receiving the Gen 3 Coyote yesterday. This is where the excitement of doing something new meets with reality. Still a long ways to go, but thought Iíd post what Iíve learned so far. Some things seem OK. But a couple of challenges. Open to suggestions here!!!

First the good. Energy Suspension motor mounts, QuickTime bell housing, A/C compressor, Moroso oil pan bolt pattern, all fit OK based on actual assembly check. Exhaust headers, starter motor, alternator, location for KRC power steering, radiator and heater and PCV hose locations and connections all LOOK exactly the same comparing to the Gen 2 Coyote in #8674. Obviously Iíll be checking with real parts once received. But looks OK for now. Iíll also mention I studied the vacuum connections on the CMCV setup, and it appears to be connected to a vacuum source right from the factory. I'll need to confirm, but looks like this wonít be something that needs to be addressed on the Gen 3. This has tripped up and confused a lot of builders before. Now hopefully no longer. I removed the oil cooler, like was necessary before. That also is exactly the same needing the shorter oil filter adapter. I also learned from my last build and caught all the oil in a brand new 5 gallon plastic pail with a sealing lid. Just over 2-1/2 gallons drained out. Iíll put it back in once the engine is installed. Thatís $50 or so of 5w-20 synthetic oil that I didnít make allowances to save the last time. Lesson learned.

Now for the challenges. Iíve uncovered two (so farÖ) and both are relatively significant.

1. The dual mass flywheel (already installed from the factory) and twin disc clutch (purchased separately) new with the Gen 3 Coyote will NOT work with my already purchased QuickTime bell housing and T-56 transmission. The input shaft on the T-56 is 4.5625 inches from the face of the bell housing to where the shaft would be against the race of the pilot bearing. With the QuickTime RM-8080 bell housing on the engine, that same distance with the dual mass flywheel is 3.375 inches. A difference of 1.1875 and no possible way to work. The RM-8080 bell is the only option for the Coyote + T-56 combination at this time. The GM version of the T-56 (the only other one available) is almost an inch longer input than the Ford version I have. So no relief on either front right now. My plan at the moment is to remove the dual mass flywheel and replace with a M-6375-M50 billet flywheel like I used on #8674. Iím HOPING the crankshaft has the same 8-bolt connection underneath the currently installed dual mass flywheel and the usual pocket for the pilot bearing. The bolts are large Torx heads that I donít have a bit for. Iíll get to the store tomorrow and get them off. Holding my breath. Iím happy with the Ford Performance billet flywheel and clutch (dual friction Centerforce part) in #8674, so as long as it fits Iíll be OK with it. Maybe the dual mass flywheel has some eBay or Craigslist value.

2. I was warned about this one, and turned out to be true. Like most everyone doing Coyote builds, I used the low profile Moroso 20570 with Moroso 24570 pickup on #8674. Had the same parts ready to go and now have found Ford has changed the oil pump on the Gen 3 Coyote. No longer uses a bolt-on pickup but instead a slip-in fitting thatís part of the new composite oil pan. Additionally, the new oil pan has the windage tray/pan gasket as part of the pan where it was separate before. Easy enough to buy and install the windage tray/gasket. Not so easy on the pickup. I just sent a message to Moroso asking if they have plans to offer a new/updated pickup. Not optimistic, at least in the short term, but see what happens. Might be possible to modify the current Moroso piece, but havenít studied that yet. Need to proceed with caution here as an improper connection would quickly destroy the engine. I'm going to leave the stock pan on the engine when I do my initial mock-up, so I'll see just how far it hangs below the frame. Expecting that to be a no-go, but I'll check. So no answer on this one yet. Here are couple pictures.

Current Moroso parts with Gen 3 oil pan.


Underside of Gen 3 engine showing new pump and pickup.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #171 of 294 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Gen 3 Mock-Up Started plus Updates

Today I was able to get the Gen 3 Coyote into the Gen 3 Coupe chassis. All by myself. But then no flywheel, clutch, bell housing or transmission. Just the engine itself. So thatís cheating. Iíll definitely get help when itís time to put the whole thing in. But this letís me work on placement for everything in the engine compartment. Glad Iím taking this step because things are pretty tight.

What I learned today: In general, the fit isnít as tight as the Roadster. Itís close to sheet metal in a few places, but nothing like the clearances in the Roadster. Exhaust header bolt access is pretty open on the passenger side, and all but the very back one on the drivers side also pretty accessible. For now Iím going to leave the original studs. The only one in question will be that back one on the DS. May shorten it or just use a regular bolt for that one spot. Oil filter is accessible. Without the factory cooler of course. Front dress on the engine (alternator, PS, A/C) all open and accessible. Starter motor also is fine. The direct injection (DI) pump on the PS head, discussed at some length in earlier posts, clears OK. Amazingly similar to the computer generated plots from Factory Five I posted. But the connector body attached to it was pretty hard against the top chassis rail as the engine was going down. So chose to move it out of the way to not damage anything. Itís a diaphragm style pump with a plunger that's actuated by the cam. With the two nuts removed, and the attached fuel line, lifts out of the way pretty easily. Once the engine is in, goes back together and clears everything just fine.

Over the next days Iíll be determining locations for the remaining components. I donít see any choice but to put the PCM on the PS above the headers. Same as typically done with the Roadster. Will be congested over there with heat and A/C lines and components. But donít see any other options. With the Roadster, it was necessary to remove the steering shaft when dropping in the Coyote. With this Coupe, not a hard interference point. I didnít move it this time. But itís a little bit in the way and will move it out of the way in the next round. The PDB will be somewhere on the firewall or foobox corners. Tight but should fit. Fuel pump regulator will be on the corner of the DS footbox. Not much else to say. Lots of work ahead now getting this done and as neat and orderly as possible.

Here are pictures from all sides. Similar to other builds with the Coyote engine. Just the added spaghetti from the Gen 3 Coyote.






As can be seen in the pics, the tops of the heads are above the frame rails. Without the coil covers as the previous Coyotes, all the wiring and plumbing is hanging out for all to see. Donít think much can be done about that. I donít think the Gen 3 cover with the wings over that area would help at all. In fact, Iím thinking would look pretty out of place. Still an open subject. Probably will only try to do something over the intake itself.

Speaking of open subjects, hereís an update on the two issues I raised in my previous post:

Incompatible Moroso oil pan pickup due to the different oil pump in the Gen 3 Coyote: Heard back from Moroso. They are planning to offer an updated pickup. But no timing was offered. I asked for possible timing in a follow-up. At this point Iím not too optimistic thatís going to be a solution in time for this build. After staring at it for a while and thinking about it, Iím pretty confident I can modify the existing Moroso pickup with some tubing and my friend the welder down the street. Tearing the engine down and changed back to the former pump is absolutely not in the cards.

Incompatible dual mass flywheel: Today I removed the factory provided dual mass flywheel. Would have had to do that anyway to install the QuickTime block plate. Even if it would have worked with my bell housing and T-56 transmission. As best I can tell, the end of the crankshaft is unchanged from the previous version. Maybe even the same part. Iím confident a regular Coyote flywheel can be installed along with a standard clutch. Planning the same parts as used in #8674 as already mentioned. The only thing missing is the pilot bearing. The one in the dual mass flywheel is different. But thatís a standard part (M-7600-C) so will get one along with the other parts and all should be good. I temporarily mounted the block plate and bell and checked the dimension compared to the input shaft of the T-56. Itís perfect. So this is nearing resolution. This is what it looked like under the dual mass flywheel with my QuickTime block plate. I had already purchased new flywheel bolts.


One other difference I noticed. There was another connection and device of some kind in addition to the oil pressure sensor. In the area of the oil filter. Removed the part and did a little digging. Turns out itís an oil control valve, and appears to be used to route oil into the now removed oil cooler. Seems the F150 version of the Coyote has this valve, and now itís on the Mustang version as well. Even though itís not doing anything, Iím going to leave it in place just in case the PCM is expecting it to be there. Same for the oil pressure sensor. For later versions of the Gen 2, instructions were to remove the stock sensor and replace with the required unit for the dash gauge. Apparently the PCM wasnít using this signal. I donít know if the Gen 3 is the same, and at this stage might not be able to get a good answer. Simple solution is to leave it and T in the added sensor. Also note the little heat shields around the sensors. Several of those on the engine.


Still a long ways to go. But feel a lot better about this than I did at this time yesterday.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #172 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 03:01 AM
Member
 
dhuff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 93
Has it been confirmed that the dual mass flywheel isn't weighted differently than the Gen 2 to help maintain engine balance?

Thanks


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MK4 #9191, Gen 3 Coyote, T56, 2015+ IRS, ABS, 12.88 Wilwood's, FFR Tubular Front LCA's, FFR Spindles, 18" FFR Hilabrands

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
dhuff is offline  
post #173 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhuff View Post
Has it been confirmed that the dual mass flywheel isn't weighted differently than the Gen 2 to help maintain engine balance?

Thanks
Good question. But the Coyote engines are internally balanced. They don't use imbalanced flywheels or harmonic balancers. I've seen the stock Coyote nodular flywheel, the Ford Performance billet steel flywheel and now this dual mass flywheel. None have had imbalance weights.
dhuff thanked this.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #174 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Here we go with wiring and the rest

Spent some time today dragging parts out of the basement that had been mocked up before and started putting them where they’ll eventually stay. This is where the “One bite at a time…” saying has to be followed. There’s a lot to do but just go one step at a time. I’m feeling relieved I decided to drop the engine in for this stage. It’s tight plus a lot going on. I never would have been able to envision it (or get it right…) without that big chunk in there. Here’s what I’ve learned so far.

Mounted the radiator sheet metal and radiator/condenser. It will be coming off one more time to put the engine in permanently. But I wanted to check out the cool tubes from Boig now that I have the engine locations to aim at. Plus the routing of the upper and lower radiator hoses affects other things. Great news. Both of the Boig tubes fit perfectly! Bob promised they would, and he was right. I was mostly worried about that tiny window to get the lower hose through by the frame and sway bar. But it fits and the alignment to the engine is great. The upper hose also works out well with the cool tube and the control pack provided upper hose. The routing is excellent. Note I’m not using a T-filler since I’m using the Moroso Mustang pressure tank and Mustang hose routing. Same as #8674. Looks like the tank is going to fit in the center under the two cross pieces. Then the cold air intake will fit over into the opening on the DS. Similar to how it’s done in the Roadster.


Draped the various wiring harnesses into their preliminary locations, including the main RF harness, the front RF harness, and the main Coyote harness + PDB. Tentatively I’m planning to put the PDB on the firewall above the DS footbox. Then route the main cable behind the firewall and break into the engine compartment by the PS footbox. That will keep the majority of the cable hidden plus take up a little of the slack. I put enough of the heat and A/C components in to see where they’ll be and have to avoid. I see no choice but to put the Coyote PCM on the PS side above the header area. Very similar to where it's typically installed in a Roadster, as I mentioned before. Will have to get creative with some type of mounting bracket.


These pictures are just overall of what it looks like now and what I have to get buttoned down. Wiring and related doesn't bother me. Actually kind of enjoy it. But it's easy to see why some get intimidated at this stage. It should look quite different when done.




One final comment about a prior subject. The dual mass flywheel that came with the Gen 3 Coyote. As already stated, I’m not going to be able to use it. Ford did make some changes to the MT-82 6-speed for 2018 that’s used in the Mustang to address some issues and make it better. Obviously at the same time they must have shortened the input to match this setup. Perhaps that new MT-82 will be an option some may want to consider for their Gen 3 Coyote builds. Just for grins though I put the now loose dual mass flywheel on a scale. That bad boy weighs 34 pounds. The previous Coyote’s nodular flywheel I measured at 29 pounds. The Ford Performance M-6375-M50 billet steel flywheel I have in #8674 and will now use for this build weighs 20 pounds. I’m not a fan of the real light aluminum flywheels for street drivers. But going the other direction to 34 pounds seems really heavy. I probably would have still used it if it fit. But not sure it’s the best for these builds. Comments from someone who knows more about this than me? (Wouldn’t take too much.)

We have a busy couple weeks coming up, including some time away. So this will probably be the last update for a bit. Plus I have a lot to do to make a dent.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #175 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Gen 3 Coyote Installation Update

Was away for several days visiting family. But back home to work, plan, and spend money. Making some progress. Still a long way to go, but here’s where I’m at today.

Dual-mass flywheel: Removed because it won’t work for me, as described before, and have received the following parts, all from Ford Performance:

  • M-6375-M50 Lightweight Billet 8 Bolt Flywheel
  • M-7600-C Roller Pilot Bearing - High Load - 4.6L/5.4L/5.0L4
  • M-7560-T46 Clutch Assembly 26 spline, 11.0 inches (Note: Centerforce dual friction with Ford branding. Nice clutch.)
  • M-6397-B46 Pressure Plate Bolts and Dowels
  • M-6379-C Flywheel Bolts

I don’t have everything assembled yet, and won’t until the engine is back out. But I’ve checked and measured everything and all appears to fit perfectly. Note as I mentioned before, this is the exact setup I have in #8674. So this just appears to confirm nothing has changed at this end of the Coyote once that dual-mass flywheel is removed. I mentioned before the 2018 Gen 3 Coyote also uses a twin disk clutch. Just to be clear, that doesn’t come with the crate motor. The previous Coyote crates didn’t include a clutch either. So no change there. The only difference in the shopping list above compared to previous Coyote versions is the pilot bearing and the flywheel. Previous versions already had a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. Now you have to add it. Previous versions had a nodular flywheel which many used. I did choose to upgrade to the lighter billet steel version listed above for #8674. So for me wasn’t a difference there. I’ll know for sure when it’s time to assemble all of the above, but I’m 99% confident this issue is resolved.

Moroso oil pickup tube: I heard back from Moroso a second time. First time they confirmed they knew their pickup tube wasn’t compatible with the Gen 3 Coyote. Said they would have an updated part sometime. I followed up asking “When?” and the answer was "TBD. No schedule at this time." So this will hopefully be a solution for other builders. But I’m not optimistic it will be for me. My plan now is to modify the existing pickup. I’ve just ordered a couple pieces of tubing from McMaster. I’m going to use the composite oil pan with the new style connection to make a fixture and cut/weld the old style Moroso pickup to fit the new pump and the Moroso low profile pan. I’m confident this will work fine. Will provide updates when completed.

Since the last update, received the Ford Performance M-8600-M50BALT 5.0 Alternator Kit, same as used on previous Coyotes. It fits fine. Also since the last update, have determined the location and method for mounting the PCM. I’m going to make a bracket that sandwiches it against the chassis tube in the location pictured previously. Will provide updates when completed. I’ve started the modification to the DBW module (accelerator pedal) and am using some ideas from another builder to re-use the existing pedal rather than the FFR supplied pedal piece. Looks like it’s going to work well. I’ll finalize that later when I have easier access to the footbox. One surprise (disappointment…) is that FFR put a nice mounting plate in the footbox that exactly matches the mounting screws on the Coyote DBW. Clearly they’re expecting lots of people to use a Coyote and DBW module. Unfortunately, it’s about 1/2-inch too high. Mounted in the holes provided, the connector for the DBW runs into the steering column. Easy enough fix to drill new holes. But missed it by that much… I've also decided to go with an Odyssey battery. The stock location is in the front, but height is somewhat limited by the steering rack. The Odyssey PC925T fits nicely. Same one recommended for the Hot Rod, and recommended by lots of builders. Small and relatively light.

New issues/findings: The throttle body on the Gen 3 Coyote appears to be another change. The inlet is the same diameter. But it’s angled UP 8-9 degrees more than the previous Coyotes. So some care is needed to use a right angle connector that turns down quickly because the underside of the cowl is already pretty close to the throttle body. The FFR listed Spectre parts, which I have in #8674, don’t look like they will fit. Both because of that and also because of the chassis bar in front of the engine. I’ve looked at a number of other aftermarket cold air intakes (Rousch, JLT, BBK, etc.) and doesn’t look like they’ll fit either. Granted one of my issues is I’m also trying to install the Moroso radiator pressure tank. So have to work around that too. After some research and lots of measuring, have ordered some parts from Treadstone Performance that I think (hope) will work. They just shipped so don’t have an update yet. But will when received and checked out.

Next finding, and last one for this update, is the famous Gen 3 Coyote engine cover. I went ahead and ordered one with the other parts listed above. Popped it on last night. First impressions are that it doesn’t look “too bad.” (Be nice when you see it. Remember what your Mother taught you. If you can't say anything nice...) But looks like the front outside corners of the “wings” hit the underside of the front cowl. Right now I’m just mocking up the location of the front cowl as best I can, so it’s possible it might barely fit when the cowl is actually installed. But it’s really close. The wings also really don’t do too much to cover up the wiring and tubing on the top of the heads. So my tentative plan for now is that I’m going to cut the wings off. I actually think it will look decent at that point. I do like the cleaner lines and sharper styling of the new cover compared to previous versions. With it cut off (I added lines in the picture below to show where I’m thinking to trim it) it will cover up some things and I think look OK. Probably will get some kind of custom painting on it like #8674. Without the wings, I also think it will clear the underside of the cowl. I’m not going to do anything with the cover for now. Will wait until I’m further along to cut and finish. But that’s the initial idea/impression. And just in case someone suggests changing the intake to something different (and better looking…) the Gen 3 stock intake is changed from previous versions and is getting great reviews in multiple tests. One of many changes making the Gen 3 closer to the GT350. Some are even using it as an upgrade to previous Gen Coyotes. So changing the intake isn’t going to happen for multiple reasons. Here are pictures. Onward and upward.



Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 09-13-2018 at 10:36 AM.
edwardb is online now  
post #176 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 01:34 PM
Member
 
Tom Sharpe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Metro Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 43
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
One final comment about a prior subject. The dual mass flywheel that came with the Gen 3 Coyote. As already stated, Iím not going to be able to use it. Ford did make some changes to the MT-82 6-speed for 2018 thatís used in the Mustang to address some issues and make it better. Obviously at the same time they must have shortened the input to match this setup. Perhaps that new MT-82 will be an option some may want to consider for their Gen 3 Coyote builds. Just for grins though I put the now loose dual mass flywheel on a scale. That bad boy weighs 34 pounds. The previous Coyoteís nodular flywheel I measured at 29 pounds. The Ford Performance M-6375-M50 billet steel flywheel I have in #8674 and will now use for this build weighs 20 pounds. Iím not a fan of the real light aluminum flywheels for street drivers. But going the other direction to 34 pounds seems really heavy. I probably would have still used it if it fit. But not sure itís the best for these builds. Comments from someone who knows more about this than me? (Wouldnít take too much.)

We have a busy couple weeks coming up, including some time away. So this will probably be the last update for a bit. Plus I have a lot to do to make a dent.
Just a quick comment or 2, Light flywheels make engines sound racier than they really are - sound like a really big cam with quick acceleration, etc. with the low gear of the 6 speed, it shouldn't be a problem. Also, Ford sells a Coyote + clutch + trans + wiring + ECU + pedal package - I would look for a gen3 version....
Tom Sharpe is offline  
post #177 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Sharpe View Post
Just a quick comment or 2, Light flywheels make engines sound racier than they really are - sound like a really big cam with quick acceleration, etc. with the low gear of the 6 speed, it shouldn't be a problem. Also, Ford sells a Coyote + clutch + trans + wiring + ECU + pedal package - I would look for a gen3 version....
Thanks for your comments. Couple of responses. I think there's a little more to flywheel weight than sound. But that's a moot point in this case because I already had the rather expensive QuickTime RM-8080 and Tremec T-56 purchased and on hand. Based partly on assurances from Ford that Gen 2 compatible parts would bolt right up to the Gen 3 Coyote. Plus it's an excellent and well proven combination for these builds. The different flywheel/clutch and resulting 1+ inch shorter input shaft on the Gen 3 Coyote was a surprise, to say the least, and is a very big deal. Changing out the flywheel as I'm describing here is the only choice at this point for me. I'm not unhappy about it at all. Just part of these builds, where surprises come up and you deal with them.

Ford Performance does sell a combo package like you're describing (M-9000-PMCM) which is the Gen 2 Coyote. Happens to use the exact bell housing and transmission I'm documenting here for my build. I've not seen or heard of a similar package for the Gen 3 Coyote. Likely it will happen at some point. But it will have to be a different bell and trans to use the OE Gen 3 flywheel and clutch setup.

Another option would be to obtain the full 2018 Gen 3 engine/manual trans setup like in a Mustang, either new or salvage. That of course would take these changes into account but would be the Getrag MT82 transmission. Some have used it successfully. But requires some mods and fabrication that are beyond my skill and interest level. Mainly having to relocate the shifter and adapt the driveshaft. Early versions of the MT82 were suspect. But later versions, and apparently upgraded again in 2018, are supposedly much improved. So definitely an option. Maybe when Ford Performance sells a complete package that's what they'll do. Who knows.

Bottom line is those that wait will no doubt have options beyond what I did here. It's fun and interesting to be an early adapter (sort of ) but has its risks too.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 09-17-2018 at 07:42 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #178 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 07:15 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 3
Hey Edward, I've been following your thread(s) with a lot of interest and appreciation for them. I too have a 2018 Coyote Crate in the garage, though mine will be going into a 66 Mustang. T-56 magnum, etc.

Similar to you, I will need to swap the oil pan on mine, albeit with a front sump. I've been contacting aftermarket companies as well. Canton told me they were at least a year out. Moroso is saying to check in early next year. They say the pan will fit, but that they may update it along with the pickup tube for 2018.

Modular Motorsports has a 2018 pickup for the Shelby GT350 listed. (Site won't let me link yet) Model 403360. That might be a solution for you?

I also contacted Ford Performance. They're going to check with engineering and get back to me. The rep suggested swapping the oil pump for the 2017 version, but I'm hesitant to pull apart a brand new motor if I don't have to.

I'll be eager to see how you modify the pickup tube, as I'll likely have to do the same.
colorado_mustang is offline  
post #179 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado_mustang View Post
Hey Edward, I've been following your thread(s) with a lot of interest and appreciation for them. I too have a 2018 Coyote Crate in the garage, though mine will be going into a 66 Mustang. T-56 magnum, etc.

Similar to you, I will need to swap the oil pan on mine, albeit with a front sump. I've been contacting aftermarket companies as well. Canton told me they were at least a year out. Moroso is saying to check in early next year. They say the pan will fit, but that they may update it along with the pickup tube for 2018.

Modular Motorsports has a 2018 pickup for the Shelby GT350 listed. (Site won't let me link yet) Model 403360. That might be a solution for you?

I also contacted Ford Performance. They're going to check with engineering and get back to me. The rep suggested swapping the oil pump for the 2017 version, but I'm hesitant to pull apart a brand new motor if I don't have to.

I'll be eager to see how you modify the pickup tube, as I'll likely have to do the same.
This is the pickup from MMR. Pickup tube for GT350 / 2018 + Oil Pump 403360. I'm not going to spend another $150 on the chance it might fit. I have the Moroso pickup and the pieces to modify. Will be the first thing I work on when I finish the mockup with the engine in the chassis. Hopefully in the next week or sooner. I agree, not a good idea to tear down a brand new engine and go backwards on the oil pump. Especially for that reason alone.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #180 of 294 (permalink) Old 09-18-2018, 03:19 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 3
FYI Ford got back to me. The 2017 pump will bolt to the 2018 block, and a swap is their official answer for the time being. Sounds like we're on our own for a solution to this one.
colorado_mustang is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
phileas_fogg
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.