EdwardbĚs Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build - Page 11 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 64Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #301 of 317 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Body Undercoat Adventure

Big day today. This morning my friend Greg, who’s building a challenge car and lives close by, came over and was a huge help completing the U-POL Raptor spray on the underside of the body and cowl. Super happy with how it turned out. But first some preliminary steps completed earlier this week. I’ve mentioned before, but I’m trying to get a decent enough finish in the cockpit roof to not use the kit supplied headliner. I really don’t want to mess with it, plus the roof kind of disappears behind the roll cage. So I’m hoping a clean, relatively smooth surface will be OK and look good.

I intentionally saved enough of the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation (CI) to coat the underside of the cockpit area. Not sure exactly how much but thought it might help to reduce heat radiated into the cockpit. Can’t hurt, right? So sanded the surface a bit to knock down the big bumps, masked it off, and gave it a spray. There are several coats.


The piece of Gorilla tape in the foreground has a story, which I’ll explain since it’s yet another lesson learned. I handle the body very carefully, turning it over, spinning around, etc. But when it’s on its roof like pictured here, the sides are quite flexible. Apparently, I wasn’t being careful enough because while working to mask off for the heat control spray, heard a cracking sound and found the back flange of the hatch opening cracked at the LH (as looking at the picture) hatch hinge opening. That area is under a lot of stress with the sides moving out, and the cut-out weakened it enough to crack there. I used some HSRF and some clamps to squeeze it back together. Then added two layers of glass in the area. I preemptively also put two layers of glass on the other side. Also left the glass across the cutout, and will trim out once the body is back on the chassis. The tape across the opening limited the movement of the sides to hopefully prevent any new damage. Lesson learned for other builders? Maybe not cut that back edge until the body is installed on the chassis for the last time. As an aside comment, the slot I cut is considerably smaller than the one shown in the manual. Some, with the revised hinges (which I have) report that no slot is required. I couldn’t find any position for the hinge where the slot wasn’t necessary.

Moving on, for the cowl, since the underside is exposed for the world to see with the cowl tipped up, spent some time trying to clean it up some. It does have a partial shell on the underside, which is an improvement over previous versions. And the remaining glass did have a pretty thick covering of some type of black undercoat material. But there was a lot of adhesive and rough edges to clean up. Then I decided it would really look a lot better if the open gaps between the rib pieces and the shell were filled. I think everything is bonded OK. But appearance could be better. So HSRF to the rescue again and filled everything in. Also chose to backfill the wheel opening lips with some HSRF to make a more gradual transition rather than the sharp angle. Did that for the front and rear wheels. Can’t see too much in these pictures but looks like this ready for spray.





Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 09-22-2019 at 12:31 PM.
edwardb is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #302 of 317 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Body Undercoat Adventure (continued)

With that, time for masking and spraying. Spent a day plus getting everything masked including the outside of the body completely covered. My experience with spraying undercoat using a Shutz style gun is that material goes everywhere. So a complete mask is pretty important. I also took the time to mask all the edges, so they’ll be painted rather than have undercoat. And there are a lot of edges on these two big pieces. I spread two big tarps on my driveway and sprayed toward the woods. Fortunately, the weather cooperated with reasonable temps, no rain, and no wind. Perfect. Using the one gallon U-POL Raptor kit, was able to get a full coverage coat on everything (Greg was following behind checking as I went), two coats on the cockpit roof, and three coats in the rear wheel wells. The front wheel wells already have the thick factory coating, so didn’t need additional coats. Also got three coats on the rear splash guards. That used every last bit of the one gallon kit. A few hours ago, pulled all the masking. It’s cured enough to touch. But needs at least 24 hours, so I’m walking away from it until Monday. Tried to get a few pics. Shadows in the garage prevent good pictures. But the coverage and color is very consistent. Couple small details plus time to cure, and these pieces will go back on the chassis for the very last time.





Also, the rear splash guards.


So some comments/observations about the U-POL Raptor product and the application. I spent a lot of time reading the directions, watching YouTube videos, etc. First, note this is a urethane 2-part catalyzed product, so in theory cures to a much harder finish than air dry water or solvent based products. Like Herculiner. Plus it’s possible to have a finer finish than those brush or roller applied products. But it’s definitely more work, a little more expensive, and highly recommended to use a respirator, gloves, and use the product carefully. Note also since it’s catalyzed, once mixed the material has a one hour pot life and will completely cure in about 24 hours. You would need to save unmixed components to have any for touchup or whatever.

The kit that I bought included the “free” standard Shutz gun. It worked fine and it’s handy how it screws directly onto the bottles of material. I read several bad reviews. But seems if you clean it after each bottle, it sprays consistently. I found this to be the case. After each bottle, just sprayed some reducer through it and went to the next bottle. This material and gun will always spray a textured finish. I was OK with that but wanted it relatively smooth. (Relatively being the key word here…) After reading other recommendations and doing a little testing, found that between 60-70 PSI and 15–18 inches distance gave the finish I was happy with. For the second coat of spray on the underside of the cockpit, we added about 1/2 ounce of reducer to the last 1/2 bottle of material. Then sprayed from a slightly further distance. This gave an even finer/smoother finish. Perfect for the second coat but maybe wouldn’t provide as good of coverage for a first coat. Late yesterday, I found that U-POL sells a higher end adjustable gun (UPL-UP4880) than can apparently give an even smoother finish. Wish I would have found out about that sooner because probably would have sprung for it. But couldn’t have it here soon enough to get the spray completed and my assembled car to paint on Oct 1. Maybe next time. U-POL also describes a process where with even more reducer and a more standard HVLP gun, you can get an even finer finish. Didn't pursue that, but another option.

I don’t consider myself an expert sprayer by any means. But I’ve done enough of it over the years to be mildly experienced. I found this product and the process to be relatively straightforward and not hard to apply. I think anyone following the directions could do the same. The finish is vastly better than the brushed-on water-based undercoat of #8674. But then again, for a Roadster, the underside is basically unseen. For the Coupe, not the case. No question it’s harder and in the long run probably more durable. Which may or may not matter as the material under #8674 is still fine after three seasons and thousands of miles. Would I use it again? Absolutely. Probably my first choice now. Where appearance isn’t as critical, U-POL does sell a brush/roll-on version. Also a urethane 2-part catalyzed material. For a Roadster build, that’s something I’d seriously consider while avoiding the time and effort for spray masking.

That's it. Next week everything goes back together and ready for the painter the following week.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 09-22-2019 at 12:22 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #303 of 317 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 11:45 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
With that, time for masking and spraying. Spent a day plus getting everything masked including the outside of the body completely covered. My experience with spraying undercoat using a Shutz style gun is that material goes everywhere. So a complete mask is pretty important. I also took the time to mask all the edges, so theyíll be painted rather than have undercoat. And there are a lot of edges on these two big pieces. I spread two big tarps on my driveway and sprayed toward the woods. Fortunately, the weather cooperated with reasonable temps, no rain, and no wind. Perfect. Using the one gallon U-POL Raptor kit, was able to get a full coverage coat on everything (Greg was following behind checking as I went), two coats on the cockpit roof, and three coats in the rear wheel wells. The front wheel wells already have the thick factory coating, so didnít need additional coats. Also got three coats on the rear splash guards. That used every last bit of the one gallon kit. A few hours ago, pulled all the masking. Itís cured enough to touch. But needs at least 24 hours, so Iím walking away from it until Monday. Tried to get a few pics. Shadows in the garage prevent good pictures. But the coverage and color is very consistent. Couple small details plus time to cure, and these pieces will go back on the chassis for the very last time.





Also, the rear splash guards.


So some comments/observations about the U-POL Raptor product and the application. I spent a lot of time reading the directions, watching YouTube videos, etc. First, note this is a urethane 2-part catalyzed product, so in theory cures to a much harder finish than air dry water or solvent based products. Like Herculiner. Plus itís possible to have a finer finish than those brush or roller applied products. But itís definitely more work, a little more expensive, and highly recommended to use a respirator, gloves, and use the product carefully. Note also since itís catalyzed, once mixed the material has a one hour pot life and will completely cure in about 24 hours. You would need to save unmixed components to have any for touchup or whatever.

The kit that I bought included the ďfreeĒ standard Shutz gun. It worked fine and itís handy how it screws directly onto the bottles of material. I read several bad reviews. But seems if you clean it after each bottle, it sprays consistently. I found this to be the case. After each bottle, just sprayed some reducer through it and went to the next bottle. This material and gun will always spray a textured finish. Iím was OK with that but wanted it relatively smooth. (Relatively being the key word hereÖ) After reading other recommendations and doing a little testing, found that between 60-70 PSI and 15Ė18 inches distance gave the finish I was happy with. For the second coat of spray on the underside of the cockpit, we added about 1/2 ounce of reducer to the last 1/2 bottle of material. Then sprayed from a slightly further distance. This gave an even finer/smoother finish. Perfect for the second coat but maybe wouldnít provide as good of coverage for a first coat. Late yesterday, I found that U-POL sells a higher end adjustable gun (UPL-UP4880) than can apparently give an even smoother finish. Wish I would have found out about that sooner because probably would have sprung for it. But couldnít have it here soon enough to get the spray completed and my assembled car to paint on Oct 1. Maybe next time. U-POL also describes a process where with even more reducer and a more standard HVLP gun, you can get an even finer finish. Didn't pursue that, but another option.

I donít consider myself an expert sprayer by any means. But Iíve done enough of it over the years to be mildly experienced. I found this product and the process to be relatively straightforward and not hard to apply. I think anyone following the directions could do the same. The finish is vastly better than the brushed-on water-based undercoat of #8674. But then again, for a Roadster, the underside is basically unseen. For the Coupe, not the case. No question itís harder and in the long run probably more durable. Which may or may not matter as the material under #8674 is still fine after three seasons and thousands of miles. Would I use it again? Absolutely. Probably my first choice now. Where appearance isnít as critical, U-POL does sell a brush/roll-on version. Also a urethane 2-part catalyzed material. For a Roadster build, thatís something Iíd seriously consider while avoiding the time and effort for spray masking.

That's it. Next week everything goes back together and ready for the painter the following week.
Paul - looks outstanding - very nice work!! Jeff
jeffgrice is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #304 of 317 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Back Together, Ready for Paint

Itís been a busy week, but the build is back together and ready to take for paint next week. The good news is the various body parts all went back into place with alignment and gaps as I had them before. Had to tweak the bumpers just a bit on the back edge of the cowl, but that was it. Picked up my last batch of powder coated parts. Front lower splash panels, rear outside cockpit corners, and rear wheel well upper front fill pieces all permanently attached. Used some seam sealer to close up any remaining gaps or openings. There are just a handful of panels left. Front and rear splash guards, back hatch wall, and fuel filler cover. Those will go on after paint. Feels good to be putting so much together for the last time. Couple more details, and it will be ready to trailer over.

Took it off the lift, the Coyote fired right up, and backed out of the garage for a couple pics. If some of the exterior pictures look similar to ones posted before, thatís good! Nice to see the mostly finished interior inside the body. Tried to get a couple pics of the cockpit roof finish. To be honest, itís a bit rougher than I wanted it to be. With more practice and improved technique, Iím sure it could be better. The best finish (e.g. smoothest) is the inside of the back wall of the body. Which will be completely hidden once the back hatch wall is installed. Go figure. But still happy I went that way versus trying to stick up the provided headliner material. One other thing I did was raise the ride height slightly. I just barely touched the underside of the chassis the last time I took it off the trailer. Probably can resolve by raising the nose of the trailer a bit. But for now just put a turn on each coilover. Enough talk. Pictures without further comment.








Next update and pictures should be with paint underway.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #305 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Delivered for Paint

Today I loaded the Coupe into the SE and delivered to the shop for paint. Next in line into the booth behind the blue car that's getting final details. They promised pictures. But also said I can visit any time I want and it's only about an hour away. So will be doing that and have progress pics. Promised for about 8 weeks. This was also the last ride in the 14-foot SE. My new 16-footer should be done by the time the paint is done. Also supposed to have my fully polished side pipes sometime in October. Finish line is still a ways away. But definitely getting closer.



Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #306 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 07:26 PM
Senior Member
 
gsides9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lima,Pa
Posts: 375
Super nice job. I doubt that anyone else will ever look up to see your headliner. I look up at mine when it rubs on my head, you won't have to worry about that. Will the car come back with the windows and lights installed? Now what are you going to do for eight weeks? Did I miss your color selection or is it a surprise?

Glen

Coupe 0652-408W/510 hp-TKO600 .64OD-3.73 TractionLok-3 Link-26x10 front 26x12 15" Mickey Thompson-Heat and A/C- Complete Kit-First Start 7/10/15 First Go Kart 8/15/15 Painted 11/12/16 Titled and Registered 3/24/17 Legally on the road 4/20/17
gsides9 is offline  
post #307 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 07:47 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsides9 View Post
Did I miss your color selection or is it a surprise?
I'm gonna' go out on a limb and predict some kind of red

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
post #308 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsides9 View Post
Super nice job. I doubt that anyone else will ever look up to see your headliner. I look up at mine when it rubs on my head, you won't have to worry about that. Will the car come back with the windows and lights installed? Now what are you going to do for eight weeks? Did I miss your color selection or is it a surprise?

Glen
Thanks. The shop isn't doing anything but paint. Everything that goes on the body after paint has been mocked up (one of my rules) and bagged/tagged ready to put back on by me once it's done. I confirmed the fit of the windshield and adjusted the opening slightly. Haven't decided yet whether I'll have it installed by a pro or make it another learning experience.

You're right. Chilling for eight weeks will be interesting. The garage looks strange with the Coupe missing. I'm finishing up some of the interior parts, cleaning/organizing some, and plan to have a sale of leftover parts. Not sure about the other seven weeks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
I'm gonna' go out on a limb and predict some kind of red

Jeff
Lucky guess there Jeff.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #309 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 10:47 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
John Dol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Gorham, ME
Posts: 3,494
Paul,

You can do the window placement yourself. I just did it myself and its pretty simple. Paint the border before install, get the rubber and the window caulk and slap it in!
You have 9 weeks to figure it out (figuring you 'll have the entire car back together in 2 weeks)

John

Building when I can, sigh....


Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
First start Sept. 18 2013
First go kart Sept 19 2013


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John Dol is offline  
post #310 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dol View Post
Paul,

You can do the window placement yourself. I just did it myself and its pretty simple. Paint the border before install, get the rubber and the window caulk and slap it in!

John
Thanks John. I'm leaning that direction right now. I have the gasket material and waiting on the balance of materials until the time comes.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #311 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Bodywork Underway

Today I visited the shop where the Coupe is getting painted. First time back since delivering it there. Happy to report body work is moving right along. They are hoping to spray sealer by the end of the week. These pictures don’t show too much, other than evidence of lots of filling, sanding, and dust. Had a chance to meet and talk a bit with the guy doing the work. I was pleased and impressed with his attention to detail and wanting to get it just right. He was happy in general with how everything lined up, gaps, etc. He said it was quite a bit of work getting the mold mismatch behind the quarter windows fixed. But looked really good from what I could tell. They haven't done a Coupe before. Only Roadsters. So one of the conditions I asked for (and also because I’m local) was that I personally do any assembly and disassembly. Saves them time trying to figure stuff out plus I want to preserve the alignment on everything and (I hope) know best how to do that. With my retirement schedule, I can get there most any time with short notice. Today’s trip was to remove the doors, door frames, and hood latches. Now that basic body work and panel matching is completed. The body will stay on throughout the process, as I’ve already described. They haven’t decided yet about the hood (cowl) but easy to remove if they want me to. On a side note, he said the Coupe has been a bit of a distraction in the shop. It’s a pretty big place with quite a few people working there. He said it gets a lot of traffic and everyone is really interested in the final result. So am I! Pictures from today:




While the Coupe is out of the home shop, have been finishing up some other open items as much as I could. One of the subjects talked about a lot is the wheel spinner adapters and various ways to keep the threads from locking and/or the adapter spinning in the wheel. Making it difficult or impossible to remove. I’ve drilled and tapped for set screws through the wheels and through the adapters on previous builds. It’s 100% effective and was planning to do the same on this build. Lots of other choices (o-rings, pool noodles, silicone adhesive, etc.) but still prefer something more mechanical. Then I saw another set screw option in a build thread and stole that idea. Instead of a set screw through the wheel and adapter, which isn’t hard but a little tedious, the idea is three set screws on the inside of the adapter only. These lock against the ID of the wheel. Was pretty easy to do and I think will be effective. I used 10-32 SS cap screws. Could have used regular set screws. But these have a bigger Allen head and a bit easier to work with.


I confirmed that when the drill and tap is positioned exactly in the center of the flat between the adapter threads and angle, the set screws hit a matching flat on the ID of the wheels. Perfect.


To install, before tightening the screws, I’ll put the adapter in the wheel with the lug nut cover and spinner tightened. That will hold the adapter properly angled and centered. Then tighten the three set screws along with some blue Loctite. Need to not overtighten as the threads are in aluminum. But with the testing I’ve done, as long as all three are reasonably tight, the adapter is locked into place. Also on this build I’m trying the CRC Dry Graphite Lube recommended by Jeff Kleiner for the spinner threads. I’ve used a light coating of anti-seize in the past. Seems to work OK. But does get a bit gummy and stiff. This material is a little different than I expected. Almost goes on like spray paint, e.g. black and dries in place. So you’ll want to mask off like paint. I have all four ready to install. Will be interested to see how it works. I’m guessing all good.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 10-16-2019 at 02:49 AM.
edwardb is online now  
post #312 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Bodywork Underway (continued)

I also had some remaining work on my door cards. The shop that did interior work for me mainly just did the stitching and placed the padding (where used) and vinyl panels. I did most of the wrap and final details. So finished the wrap on the door cards, plus did the cutout and wrap for the door handles and openings for the bins I fabricated and showed previously. Happy with how they turned out. Matches the theme of the rest of the interior.


Also put padding and vinyl in the inside of the bins, and carpet on the bottom. The bar, which I’ve shown before, is attached to the door along with the bin. It sits right below the bottom edge of the opening in the door card, and is strong enough and in the right location to use to open and close the door.


Finally, totally off topic (and you can tell I’m running out of tasks for the Coupe) some time ago I scored a very cool Ford Racing neon sign. Wasn’t sure where I was going to put it. In the basement somewhere or in the garage shop. My wife already ruled out putting it somewhere in the house itself. Imagine that. Went with the garage shop. Maybe I need to hit Ford up for some advertising revenue. Wish me luck. Regardless, I like it.


That’s it. I’ll keep the paint progress updates coming.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 10-16-2019 at 02:44 AM.
edwardb is online now  
post #313 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Let the Spraying Begin

First coats going down. This is when it starts getting good.




Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #314 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Sanding and Guide Coat

Progress continues. Like how it looks. Another coat of primer and wet sand after this. Then should see some color.






Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #315 of 317 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,763
Primer and Wet Sanding Done. Bring on the Color

Received these pics today. I'll be visiting end of the week, and they're saying should have color going down by then. Looking really clean and straight.






Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #316 of 317 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:29 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
Looking good Paul!!!
edwardb thanked this.
jeffgrice is offline  
post #317 of 317 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:52 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
JohnPR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cochrane, Alberta
Posts: 584
Really nice build! And lots of great details! Great work!
edwardb thanked this.

Coupe 418; Ford Racing 302, Cobra discs, Whitby SAI, Levy 5-link, Koni kit

"We do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard....." - JFK
JohnPR is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 6 (0 members and 6 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.