Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal. - Page 3 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #61 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 04:44 AM
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I agree that what you have done looks better- you don't even need that long of a bolt and the spacer hanging off the end.

But, I wonder if FFR did what they did in order to keep the rod end in the middle of it's movement range- assuming that you took the picture with the car resting on the wheels/tires on the ground. And is your picture at full-droop or with the car resting on the ground?

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post #62 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

Full droop. And I agree about the extra bolt I just don't currently have one that exactly fits. The "spacer" is just acting as a long washer. It's good to have a washer by the Zeus fitting (is that how it's spelled?) to allow for full range of motion without binding.

I showed my setup to a guy who builds lots of racing suspension setups (ignite performance in denver) and he likes my new configuration much better than the original setup. He also says that the direction of forces should work perfectly and not induce any adverse lateral motion in the bar. The slight angle on the connecting king should be no problem.

We will know soon enough as this is a track build so the forces will be way more than a street build would likely face. I'll be monitoring the setup for play and or wear. Stay tuned!!

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post #63 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 12:54 AM
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Great- good to know.

My Gen III Coupe arrives in a week.

Dave
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post #64 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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Powdercoated and mocked up. Tomorrow come some rivets.


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post #65 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 09:42 AM
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Those panels look great. I like the look of the dark panels with the white chassis.

-Matt
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post #66 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 04:13 PM
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Sweet look!
What is the exterior going to look like?

John

Building when I can, sigh....


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post #67 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dol View Post
Sweet look!

What is the exterior going to look like?



John


Like this.
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post #68 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

I tried to put silicone all the places where aluminum panels touch metal.



I think the rivets look pretty cool on those dark panels. Also I put rivnuts (removable) with some thin closed cell foam (like a gasket?) over my brake pedal assembly to make access easier for doing brake bias adjustments. This was my first time using them but they go in pretty easily you just have to be really careful not to cross thread them.

Last edited by SurfDog57; 05-13-2017 at 08:58 PM.
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post #69 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 05:35 AM
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nice post, sum questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfDog57 View Post
I tried to put silicone all the places where aluminum panels touch metal.



I think the rivets look pretty cool on those dark panels. Also I put rivnuts (removable) with some thin closed cell foam (like a gasket?) over my brake pedal assembly to make access easier for doing brake bias adjustments. This was my first time using them but they go in pretty easily you just have to be really careful not to cross thread them.
yeah this confirms it i need some rivnuts...

do you use a proportioning valve for bias, right? which one?

you think large ones would cross thread less?

nice idea on the foam... would it be as watertight as necessary? (not that i intend to drive it in the rain much but theres no undertray unless you make one)
don't forget about the AC/heat removable panel if you have it/made it
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post #70 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 02:34 PM
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I just drilled and taped the frame rails for 10-32 stainless socket head cap screws. Not as good as rivnuts but it works. You only get 3 or 4 threads but it is lots to hold the aluminum on.
David W


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post #71 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles65Coupe View Post
yeah this confirms it i need some rivnuts...

do you use a proportioning valve for bias, right? which one?

you think large ones would cross thread less?

nice idea on the foam... would it be as watertight as necessary? (not that i intend to drive it in the rain much but theres no undertray unless you make one)
don't forget about the AC/heat removable panel if you have it/made it
The "gasket" is closed cell self foam that I cut all around the panel, mostly for rattleproofing. Waterproof is not a huge concern as all this is tucked well under the hood. Of greater concern I think is heat-proofing which is my next task. Ill be putting heat shields all around the exhaust manifold and tranny areas of the footbox.

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/a...-sticky-shield

I"ll be ceramic coating the headers and exhaust to push most of the heat out the exhaust tips. Hopefully this setup will keep my feet cool. If not, I'll wrap the headers as a last resort.

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/a...no-header-wrap
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post #72 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles65Coupe View Post
yeah this confirms it i need some rivnuts...

do you use a proportioning valve for bias, right? which one?

you think large ones would cross thread less?

nice idea on the foam... would it be as watertight as necessary? (not that i intend to drive it in the rain much but theres no undertray unless you make one)
don't forget about the AC/heat removable panel if you have it/made it
The Willwood pedal box I"m using has a mechanical bias bar style setup (hence the removable Rivnuted access panel.) Also, I'm running Willwood 14 inch rotors up front and (The FFR) 12.88s in the back to get me closer to proper bias right off the bat. I think this should be a better rotor setup for the enduro-racing events I have in mind. (unfortunately for my non track days, the 18 inch Halibrand replicas don't fit around my front caliper without a spacer...)
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post #73 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

I just ordered up my fuel cell.


Phew! Pricey. It's a custom fit for our FFR cars and as such about 2x the price. Yikes!

http://fuelsafe.com/store/media/cata.../i/file_24.jpg
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post #74 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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E-Brake is in.

FFR sent me two brake kits so I used parts from both to make the brake a bit sturdier (I used a second connector to have one on both sides of the cam. That also allowed me to double pin and better capture the ratchet cam.



Here are some other shots and how I routed the cables. (I'll have to give the routing some more thought.)




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post #75 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
I just drilled and taped the frame rails for 10-32 stainless socket head cap screws. Not as good as rivnuts but it works. You only get 3 or 4 threads but it is lots to hold the aluminum on.
David W
Drilling and tapping, particularly with a combination drill & tap should work fine, at least with 1/8" wall thickness. A typical 10-32 nut is only 1/8" thick and the threads are chamfered on both sides, so 1-2 turns of engagement is lost. If the tubes are only 1/16" thick, then there's far less thread, but certainly enough to hold a panel in place.

I have a lot of aluminum upholstery panels on my car. The brackets that hold them are all 1/8" thick aluminum that were match drilled and tapped 10-32. I know that I have a couple of 1/16" thick brackets that have caused no problem.
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post #76 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Ford performance REP just tol me "no way the A52xs will be ready for sales in June. We're shooting for sometime this year"


Ummmmmm..... crap. I had it on pretty good authority that it was going to be June.
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post #77 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 04:49 PM
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Little surprised that after the entire overhaul of the car they finally put the hand brake on the tunnel, but still put it on the wrong side!

John
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post #78 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dol View Post
Little surprised that after the entire overhaul of the car they finally put the hand brake on the tunnel, but still put it on the wrong side!



John


It does seem to be in an odd place.

More trouble than it's worth to me to move it though.
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post #79 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Just ordered 4 rolls of this for the firewall and tranny tunnel.



Hopefully that will keep my feet nice and uncooked.
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post #80 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 02:28 AM
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Where is it from and where will it go- outside or under carpeting on the inside?

Dave
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post #81 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taved View Post
Where is it from and where will it go- outside or under carpeting on the inside?



Dave


About like this





From here.

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post #82 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 05:26 AM
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Great- thanks- looks like good stuff.

I was going to say "that was fast"- but then I realized that those pics are not a Gen III Coupe.

Any idea why the IRS differential mounts point down towards the front of the car (at least mine do)? I found this to be the main source of frustration getting all 4 bolts in. Perhaps this is some pre-load/tension function.

I'm a couple of months behind you but watching your build intently.

Dave
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post #83 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 05:36 AM
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I'm about to install my front upper A-arms.

I noticed that John George's build has them placed on top of the frame mounts with spacers in-between.

I've not seen the mounting clearly spelled out in the manual.

Any ideas? Seems the way you did it with the pivot arm sandwiched in-between the frame tabs makes better sense.

Thanks,
Dave
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post #84 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

Perhaps John did it that way to correct for or modify his bump steer. I might goof with my geometry too, but for now am just setting it up factory spec.

Here's a picture from my factory visit a few weeks ago how the are doing it at FFR

(Notice on the John George build they also shortened the steering arm coming off the spindle a bit to speed up the turning ratio off the steering rack. That Car has very fast steering response when you twitch the wheel. If you watch the VIR cockpit videos you can see how amplified the steering is)


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post #85 of 386 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 04:53 PM
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John may be running the car lower as well and wanting a different camber curve.

Great picture- this will help me a lot. I should fly out there and make my own manual.

Still, any impression about the sloping IRS mounts?

Thanks,
Dave
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post #86 of 386 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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post #87 of 386 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 06:53 AM
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my personal fav. at the moment..

Mercury Racing Reveals SB4 7.0 Automotive Crate Engine | Mercury Racing

Just saying..

Coupe 65 #646

Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
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Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
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TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #88 of 386 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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So pretty I have a partial!

...clutch I still need a master cylinder and pedal
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post #89 of 386 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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From Jim at Factory 5
(Installer of the first and for now only A52xs coyote motor) about any pitfalls of installing an Aviaid dry sump system on the Ford 5.2

Quote
No issues specific to the 5.2, it is a fairly involved process because the
timing chain and oil pump have to be removed but all those parts were the
same on the 5.2 as the 5.0. There were 2 options as far as the old oil
pump goes because it is also used as a spacer to mount the timing chain
tensioner, we removed it entirely and cut a spacer the same depth to go on
the lower mount, but the other option is to gut the internals of the pump
and install the empty housing. The second option might give better piece
of mind since it locates the tensioner exactly the same as the factory
without any measuring or cutting. The only other gotcha is that there are
2 different oiling manifolds for where the old oil filter locator mounted
and the 5.2 needs the newer style (2015+). Aviad should ask you which you
need when you order but if you already have it I would look on the order
to confirm.
End quote

I plan to gut the pump and use it as the tensioner spacer.
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post #90 of 386 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

Also I ordered this master cylinder from summit and another FFR billet fluid reservoir for my clutch.
https://m.summitracing.com/search?ke...sre-brand-_-ad

It's 3/4 in master cylinder and should work well with my McLeoud CSC. We'll see...
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