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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

74K views 425 replies 33 participants last post by  SurfDog57 
#1 ·
Hi Ya'all I thought I'd start a thread to document my build. My kit is scheduled to be complete at the end of June. This will be an Occasional daily driver but mostly a track car! (I daily drive a family truckster when Ive got the kids in tow, and my 370Z when I'm solo, so this ride is mostly for summer cruising and the track (High Plains Raceway in Denver)
So here we go! Here are the options I have picked.

-Complete coupe Kit (yay!)
-shipping crate
-powder coat chassis
-FFR vintage gauges
-coyote 3v headers
-Roadster Coyote straight tubes
-body cutouts
-Comp aluminum race seats
-heat/AC
-wiper kit
-MKII floormats
-Carpet
-Battery cutout
-17" Halibrand replica wheels
-roadster Coyote installation kit
-IRS components
-12.19 IRS Wilwood brakes (I'm working to mod the order to slotted only, not drilled)

My plan is to drop in a Ford 5.0 (302) Coyote motor from Ford racing, paired to a Tremek TKO or T-600. The back end will host a Quaife LSD.



I have poked around a little bit and am suspecting to hit a few snags.

-I suspect it might be a bit of a challenge fitting my steering column around the coyote motor. (I don't think the kit was built with Coyote motor in mind)

-I will have to build up a custom drive shaft (no biggie)

-I foresee fitment challenges with the header/exhaust.

-I have to keep my wife from vetoing the project at every stage.(I plan to use the forgiveness better than permission technique primarily)

Wish me luck folks. My kids and I are super exited to get this project off the launchpad.

Here are some questions I need answered.

-Will a Ford Racing 5.0L 4V DOHC Aluminator XS Crate Engine fit under the hood (with that tall intake manifold up there) or am I limited to a "Ford Racing 5.0L 4V DOHC Aluminator Crate Engine"

-What gear ratios and specific Tranny would be best (Assuming that I'll probably be limited to the smaller 420 HP motor) (I'm thinking a T-600 but don't know about gear ratios etc so am starting from square one)

-How stiff is steering, and should I put in an electric power assist kit? Is it difficult to "retrofit" one if I decide later its needed, or should I do it on the initial build.

-should I do roll up windows or stick with scoops and sliders (remember I'll have AC) I lean toward roll-ups (despite the weight) primarily from a security standpoint (I will occasionally have to lock the car and leave it unattended I would guess)

Thanks in advance for any input you all generously provide. I look forward to bumping into you around the community.

-Cliff
 
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#94 ·
On the wing mount, are you going to bolt a bracket to this and then mount the wing to it externally?
Or is this part going to protrude through the body?
X2 on the welding skills

John
 
#95 ·
I wish I could claim credit for that weld. My buddy is stitching up the welds for me.

The bracket will hold a removable wing mounting bracket that can act at a rear bumper mount (well bumper is probably overstating it a bit... just a bar to keep followers from getting up into my rear glass.

It will look like this with the bracket holding the "through body" mounts

 
#97 · (Edited)
Cut down clutch MC length and swapped brakes to correct sides also installed hardware, re flared and re hardwared my mangled lines (that was not so fun)


Fuel cell mounting brackets are welded up and in as well as my hand made diff breather



The rear wing bracket is installed and all the hardware for the wing is off to powdercoating



Next up heat shields around foot boxes and touch up painting all the new steel around fuel cell. Once the paint is dry I'll reinstall all my rubber stripping around the tank and button up the hatch with rivnuts. (I'm going with rivnuts on the aft hatch panel to make cell maintenance and fuel pump/filter upkeep a bit easier)



Plenty to keep me busy this weekend while the wife is out of town, but it feels like pretty good progress this week.

I'm told my 5.2 motor is delivering by end of this coming week, so I'm trying to get the chassis ready start fitting up a power plant before it gets here. Luckily I have a few days off still before it arrives and once it does I have a motor shop mounting up my power steering pump and dry sump pump so I still have about 10 days to get ready.

I'll probably hold off on installing my brake and clutch reservoirs until I see how the motor fits in the bay. I also have to find a new spot for the battery.
 
#107 ·
nice engine indeed.. :) what are the mods, power targets..?
 
#108 · (Edited)
Mods are just an Aviaid dry sump setup and power steering pump install

2300 lbs (dry)
580 hp
450 Q

Full aero (stage two in FFR parlance)

...or so.
8500 rpm redline

It's going to be a great car for endurance racing and track days! (My build goals) perhaps pikes peak climb eventually.

Here are some older numbers. I'll post a dyno sheet once I'm all tuned up.

 
#111 ·
#112 ·
PCV valve and The back of head cooling (just to eliminate any hotspots in #8 and #4 pistons) should apply to any coyote.

The only thing in question is the timing chain sprocket, maybe the 5.2L has a better one to start with. Not that I had problem with the timing chain sprocket, but its an easy thing to change since you are already in there.
 
#113 ·
PCV valve and The back of head cooling (just to eliminate any hotspots in #8 and #4 pistons) should apply to any coyote.



The only thing in question is the timing chain sprocket, maybe the 5.2L has a better one to start with. Not that I had problem with the timing chain sprocket, but its an easy thing to change since you are already in there.


I'll look into it. Also I thought 5.2 has better cooking jackets as part of the new block machining. Maybe the cooking issue is addressed??? I'll look into both. Thanks John.
 
#114 · (Edited)
KRC power steering systems order
(This stuff is required to power the rack from FFR. Their Pump and brackets won't go on the 5.2 with a dry sump.)
KIT 66302001 cost $179.95 .Includes bracket ,wp pulley and belt.
Pump is PS3 29116811 ,cost $413.99. This is a 9.6 cc aluminum high performance pump.
The pump pulley is a KRC 20019600 ,cost $57.66
and finally a KRC 9141200 bolt on reservoir, cost $97.99.

Whew... pricey. But there you go.

This setup is cool because I'll be able to dial in more or less boost to adjust feel.
 
#117 ·
I Just buttoned up the a52xs and now have to pull the cover off again to put on a last minute upgrade.

I've decided to pop on a billet crankshaft gear as per John' recommendation.
http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...in_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=580

Should be on tomorrow in time to install the power steering pump. With luck the motor will be in next week and I can get to wiring and fitting oil lines.
 
#123 ·
those dual cam heads are big bastards.. :) !! is a very cool piece of work :)
 
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