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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

74K views 425 replies 33 participants last post by  SurfDog57 
#1 ·
Hi Ya'all I thought I'd start a thread to document my build. My kit is scheduled to be complete at the end of June. This will be an Occasional daily driver but mostly a track car! (I daily drive a family truckster when Ive got the kids in tow, and my 370Z when I'm solo, so this ride is mostly for summer cruising and the track (High Plains Raceway in Denver)
So here we go! Here are the options I have picked.

-Complete coupe Kit (yay!)
-shipping crate
-powder coat chassis
-FFR vintage gauges
-coyote 3v headers
-Roadster Coyote straight tubes
-body cutouts
-Comp aluminum race seats
-heat/AC
-wiper kit
-MKII floormats
-Carpet
-Battery cutout
-17" Halibrand replica wheels
-roadster Coyote installation kit
-IRS components
-12.19 IRS Wilwood brakes (I'm working to mod the order to slotted only, not drilled)

My plan is to drop in a Ford 5.0 (302) Coyote motor from Ford racing, paired to a Tremek TKO or T-600. The back end will host a Quaife LSD.



I have poked around a little bit and am suspecting to hit a few snags.

-I suspect it might be a bit of a challenge fitting my steering column around the coyote motor. (I don't think the kit was built with Coyote motor in mind)

-I will have to build up a custom drive shaft (no biggie)

-I foresee fitment challenges with the header/exhaust.

-I have to keep my wife from vetoing the project at every stage.(I plan to use the forgiveness better than permission technique primarily)

Wish me luck folks. My kids and I are super exited to get this project off the launchpad.

Here are some questions I need answered.

-Will a Ford Racing 5.0L 4V DOHC Aluminator XS Crate Engine fit under the hood (with that tall intake manifold up there) or am I limited to a "Ford Racing 5.0L 4V DOHC Aluminator Crate Engine"

-What gear ratios and specific Tranny would be best (Assuming that I'll probably be limited to the smaller 420 HP motor) (I'm thinking a T-600 but don't know about gear ratios etc so am starting from square one)

-How stiff is steering, and should I put in an electric power assist kit? Is it difficult to "retrofit" one if I decide later its needed, or should I do it on the initial build.

-should I do roll up windows or stick with scoops and sliders (remember I'll have AC) I lean toward roll-ups (despite the weight) primarily from a security standpoint (I will occasionally have to lock the car and leave it unattended I would guess)

Thanks in advance for any input you all generously provide. I look forward to bumping into you around the community.

-Cliff
 
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#34 ·
Surfdog57's build journal.

Well, I Hit a few snags finishing up the rear end:



I forgot to lock-tight the rotors so had to tear them down and build them up again. Actually I didn't mind, as my safety wire job was much better the second time. I don't want to talk about the broken rotor bolt, suffice it to say my drill press saved the day again!



Today's lesson, Never use an impact gun to speed up a process. Its all about the journey...



Today's head scratch-er...

Q: Why don't the lug nuts fit the rear hub studs.

Answer: Because you need to replace them with the studs you thought went up on the front.



So, I banged them out and now the rear end is ready for brake lines.



BTW those willwoods look very sweet!!

 
#35 ·
Today's head scratch-er...

Q: Why don't the lug nuts fit the rear hub studs.

Answer: Because you need to replace them with the studs you thought went up on the front.



So, I banged them out and now the rear end is ready for brake lines.



BTW those willwoods look very sweet!!

Don't you hate it when you create more work for yourself!!

The brakes do look good!

John
 
#36 · (Edited)


Steering rack and column is on! Next step .., pedal box!!

I used the Lower steering rack mounting points to help the column geometry.

BTW I initially used the lower shock tower mounts to raise ride height for initial clearance testing. I'll probably lower them once I hit the track.

I notice that my Koni coil overs are mounted upside down from the way other guys are doing it.

I guess I'll flip them over (to make the adjustment ring easier to access??). That seems odd, but if it's good enough for Tony at FFR its good enough for me.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Having just installed the front willwood brakes here are a few notes

1.they are the best brakes you can get for a 12 inch rotor (fits a 17 inch wheel)

However... if you plan to change your front pads often (as I do) do not get these rotors. The pad change process is terrible. (The backs are fine). If you are going to track your coupe get 14 inch rotors (require a 18 inch rim) and use a caliper that you can change the pads on without having to remove the entire caliper. (i.e. just slide them out the front)



Brake changes are going to be time consuming and frustrating on this caliper. Also I've already ordered some pin retaining spring clips as these one are placed maddeningly around back and just can't wait to jump off the pliers and go for a little fly. (This happened assembling them ON THE BENCH. I expect it will be much worse at the track. (Well the finding the clip part anyway)
 
#38 ·
Jay at FFR just confirmed that I have the wrong gauge set (white gauges). He is helpful sending out the proper gauges for my build.

Here's a few the ones I have on hand


The ones coming are black, but more critically the speedo goes to 180 (120 is a bit low for my build) and the tack to 8k. (Instead of a too low 7k)

My self imposed redline will be 7800rpm on my dry sumped a52xs motor (Aviaid dry sump)

I also have begun a preorder on the front and rear aero they used in the snap on build. I think the downforce in the rear will really help get power down on my light build and the front aero should help keep the from planted instead of "floaty" at speed.

The rear spoiler is off the GTM with custom mounts I'll weld on myself.

Should come out about like this




I'm leaving off the upper dive planes as I suspect they will cause stress issues on my removable nose aero.
 
#39 ·
Just a quick thought, I believe you have stock mufflers on the car and for the motor and the use you're going to have for the car, you're going to want to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust. I did and I probably gained 50 horsepower on a 392 Ford Motorsport crate motor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#40 ·
I have my exhaust manifolds but the FFR gang is still putting together my exhaust for the a52xs. They will be Dual side pipes. I think is a basic dual glass pack style exhaust. Hopefully they do the math and tune the length properly. (I am confident they will). It will probably be difficult to find aftermarket side pipes to fit. (I of course could be totally wrong about that though)
 
#42 ·
Rear Wing, brackets and mounts, and the front aero and carbon dive plane order is in. Also I ordered the front bump steer kit (mostly to make toe adjustments easier). Somehow I forgot too order away bars so they are also on the way.

My panels are off to powder coat (shark grey) and my wife says the broken brake rotors bolt has arrived via ups.

It's feeling like Xmas around here.

I'm considering putting in a fuel cell but don't know if it's worth the added expense. Any thoughts out there???
 
#43 ·
I just spoke with Mark the traveling builder who just finished up most of the John George gen 3 coupe. He is a very helpful and nice guy.

He gave me some good input for my build. Most notably get power steering for the track. He could hardly be more credible so I'm going to do just that. He has listed all the parts for the John George car and likes the setup they used for track use.

He also advised me to pull apart all my suspension bushings and lube them up. Grrrrr but okay. (Geez)

He has advised against powdercoat of my panels. He said it won't adhere long on floorboards etc.

He advised rivnuts on the tranny panels, which I was planning anyhow but it's good to have concurrence

He recommends some engine panel trimming and body trim around the driver seat.

He mentioned some tranny trimming but my tranny is not a TKO 600 so far lol have to see if his advice apply to my T56.

We discussed reinforcement of the rear spoiler.

All in all I'm a bit "firehosed" but great input.

I need to put these guys on speed dial!!!
 
#45 ·
Ordered a rivnut kit (for selected removable panels on tranny tunnel and Engeneer bay)

Ordered the FFR power steering setup for coyote motor

Shipped my 17 inch halo brand rims back to swap out for 18s. (Which will fit my inevitable brake upgrade to 14 or 15 inch rotors. )
 
#49 ·
Here is the full scoop on the motor straight from Mike Delahanty from Ford. (I think he runs the crate motor division)

He describes the motor like this...

Maximum Coyote Crate - 570+ Horsepower


* 5.2L - 317 cubic inches
* 12.0:1 compression ratio (nominal)
* Ford Performance 5.2L GT350 aluminum block
* Mahle[emoji768] hard anodized forged pistons with Graphal low friction coating
* Manley[emoji768] H-beam connecting rods with ARP2000 bolts
* Lightweight aluminum cylinder block features cross-bolted main bearing caps
* Ford Racing Camshafts Camshaft kit - M-6550-M52
* Ford Racing M-6675-M50BR 12 quart rear sump oil pan features optimized oil drain back and windage tray to control oil and improve high-rpm performance
* Ford Racing M-6600-50CJ High Performance oil pump with billet steel gears
* Ford Racing M-9424-M50CJ Cobra Jet tuned intake manifold
* Ford Racing M-9926-CJ65 dual bore throttle body
* Ford Racing M-9593-LU47 47 lb. fuel injectors
* Ford Performance GT350 fully CNC ported aluminum heads
* Ford Racing M-12A227-CJ13 high RPM pulse ring
* Ford Racing M-8600-M50BALT alternator and mount kit
* Ford Racing M-6P067-M50BK black coil covers
* Ford Racing M-12405-M50 heat range zero (0) spark plugs
* Ford Racing M-6731-FL820 oil filter

Also, Final price is not set, but estimated to be $17000-$18000

Currently planed be released in June this year!!!!!!!

No flat plane crank but I think this crate will make more power than the gt350 flat plane offering. (570ish up from 530 or so). Maybe not so sweet in the exhaust note but still 570 from a 5.2!!!!!!!

I am holding off on my gen 3 build awaiting this awesome motor!!!!!!

The ford performance sales guys have repeatedly confirmed this info by telling me "mid summer" as their best guess.

Also in unrelated news I'm packing up my panels for powdercoat today!
 
#51 ·
#52 ·
Went to factory five to tour the facility and speak with the team.

Everyone was super kind and accommodating and made me feel like a real part of the FFR family. I was super impressed.

Jim the development lead spent a TON of time helping me sort through some track focused build details and Tony was very helpful pointing out some common construction snags. (He's built dozens and dozens of these things). Dave gave me some perspective on how my Gen 3 fits into the continuing development of their product line and poured fuel on the fire of my enthusiasm for this project, and the rest of the team dropped everything to answer my many many questions as I worked my way around the shop.

What a great team they have there. I'm very glad I made the trip to stop in.

Here I am dreaming of things to come in The Snap on car.
 
#55 ·
Power steering rack is in (manual rack on the shelf)
Bump steer kit (steering rod toe link ends) are in. (I had to drill out the steering holes on the spindle end)
After looking at the FFR car, I have figured out how the sway bars go on and that is next up on the build plan.

(body panels are all still out getting powder coated)

The wheel sourcing saga continues. I'm still trying to find a good lightweight set of (2)18x11s and (2)18x 12s with offsets that will work on the track. Hoosier A7 or R7s maybe?
 
#57 ·
I just spoke with Dan at Factory Five and he said the design is correct and that there is no worries with slop or fatigue on that linkage. Based on that, I will run it as designed but will be checking it frequently during my initial track shakedown runs. If it holds up to the first few beatings on the track it will probably last a long time. I get a LOT of chassis movement out there so we will see.

I have tremendous faith in the guys at FFR to design a stout suspension setup, so I should probably just have a little more faith in that bolt and spacer.
 
#61 ·
I agree that what you have done looks better- you don't even need that long of a bolt and the spacer hanging off the end.

But, I wonder if FFR did what they did in order to keep the rod end in the middle of it's movement range- assuming that you took the picture with the car resting on the wheels/tires on the ground. And is your picture at full-droop or with the car resting on the ground?

Dave
 
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