JimS Daytona SC Build - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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JimS Daytona SC Build

Well better late then never :-)

This is the build thread for Coupe # 487

I've been in love with the Cobra, Daytona Coupe and the GT40s for as long as I can remember. All beautiful cars. I originally wanted to build a RCR GT40.
I bought a Porsche transaxle and started planning and started designing a SBF supercharger Intake to have a super charged Gt40 :-) But I came to the realization that the initial cost was just too far out of my reach, so I sold my transaxle and changed course somewhat:-). Like I said I also was a really big fan of the Daytona coupe. I researched Factory Five and decide to go that route. I took delivery of my coupe on 4-20-2010. The waiting from time of order to time of delivery was a killer.

When I took delivery and started to really look it over from a body stand point, I have to be honest, I had buyers remorse :-). I couldn't believe just how bad the seems are in person. But I soon got over and went to work.

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post #2 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:27 PM
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Great to see you get started. What type of SC are you going to use? Some sort of roots blower? I also had dreams of an RCR but as you say the money just didn't add up for me either


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post #3 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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MN12. See 1st start Go kart stage. This is a belated build thread, I'm almost 5 years into it, but I decide to put together a complete build thread, so stay tone for how I got to where it is now :-)
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post #4 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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I believe the first thing that I did was to go to the junk yard and obtain a complete rear sub frame out of a Thunderbird SC. Once I got it home I completely disassembled the spindles and the 8.8 IRS so that I could clean them, rebuild them , and of course make a few upgrades

On the spindles I just cleaned them up and installed new bearings. On the 8.8 I knew that the weak link tends to be the carrier caps, so I had to decide what to do. A new cover with bearing supports is very expensive for the IRS 8.8, so I decided to design and machine new bearing caps instead, and keep the original cast aluminum cover. So I used 1" thick x 4" wide cold drawn bar stock and made them beefier.
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post #5 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the spindles, I forgot to mention that on the spindles I re-drilled in between the old bolt pattern for the new 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
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post #6 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Next was the front spindles and installing the rear suspension
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post #7 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick note, I actually designed and machined the lower SC intake before I took delivery of the coupe, but I will post about it when I get to the motor part.

So next would have been the aluminum paneling. I decided early on that I wanted a glove compartment so I turned the FFR AC unit around backwards, which gave more room for a glove box, but by moving it forward I had to re-do part of the passenger area aluminum, and being me I thought if I have to re-do some I might as well extend the passenger foot box out as far as the drivers side, putting it in front of the lower crash bar. (FFR really needs to do this not sure why they haven't).
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post #8 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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heater AC positioning

As mention in the last post I located the heat/AC on the front of the Dash 2"x2" box tube, instead of the back where FFR located it. To do this you just simply turn it around and it moves it forward and gives room for the glove box :-). Then I had to build some PVC duct pipes to route things in the confined space. The flexible heater duct tubes slide on these PVC pieces and continue to the dash bezels on the dash panel and the defrost/defog duct.

Here's what it looks like
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post #9 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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fiber glass duct and heater tubes

One of the ducts had to be kind of custom/not PVC, so I glued high density insulation board together(Polystyrene) and started cutting and shaping it to direct air to the center 2 dash panel bezels. After shaping it I used Epoxy resin and fiber glass cloth to cover it and build the duct. Once it fully cured I poured Lacquer thinner onto the styrene foam to eat it. It gets runny and you pour it out. It's kind of a mess, but it works! Then you have a custom duct:-)
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post #10 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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copper heater tubes

I used 1/2" ridge copper for my heater tubes to route from heater core out through the passenger side foot box

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post #11 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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More picks of heater tubes
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post #12 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:24 PM
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hi Jim,

Nicely done, appreciate the post..

Ive also put the AC unit on the 'other' side of the cross member, but seem to be able to get the ducting through without the need for the PVC sections. I did cut back the center brace in the dash though. Will be keeping your approach in mind..

Cheers

Chris
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Coupe 65 #646

Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
Delivery, Sydney - 18 August.
Fabrication and recoating complete - 25 October
Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
Engine running - October 2015
First gokart - December 2015

TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #13 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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I did a double take :-). Right hand drive. Then I looked at your location :-)


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post #14 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Dash

As I said earlier I wanted a glove box and wanted the dash to be more street car looking than all out race car, so I looked at what some people had done and looked at Superformance's coupe and then started sketching and came up with the attached drawing. The designed evolved from there. First I cut out the main thin wall 3/4" x 3/4" box tube that the FFR dash sit. Then bought some more box tubing and bend up a new design and welded in place.
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post #15 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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center heater control area/radio area

So next I started building my own heater control area of the dash. Once that was done, I built panels to wrap around the under side of dash to give it that finishing touch. Both the center area and the under panels will be wrapped in vinyl or leather, not sure yet. I added a 1/2" diameter piece of aluminum tube to the front of the under panels to give a nice radius bead on the panel. I will have polyurethane foam sprayed on the panel then I will shape it base of from that front radius and tapering to the back edge of the panel, then it will be wrapped. You can see the tube formed in the last picture, just before attaching.
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post #16 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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One quick Note: I actually did the emergency brake handle relocate before some of this, but to keep the dash progress documented smooth, I will cover the emergency brake after the dash discussion

The same process was used on both sides of dash for the under panels.
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post #17 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Smile Steer shaft lowered to where I wanted it

I cut the pillow block bearing mount off and then used a hole saw creatively to cut a half moon in the top of the 2x2 dash bar to accept the steering column that I planned to build. I built a actual steering column to hold my turn signal switch and wiper motor switch, I also did this to make the steering shaft more ridged, but mostly for controls. I used 1-5/8" roll cage tubing for the column and made bronze bushings to press in each end for the steering shaft to ride smoothly in. Then I machined the front of the tube to have the proper geometry for the turn signal, high beam,horn switch and wiper motor switch. BTW these are Lucas switch assembles from a Land Rover. (how'd I come up with that? Lots of internet research for what I wanted in the switch)
I also had to make a special ring that has 2 keys sticking up that locks into the turn signal cancellation feature on the turn signal switch. This ring pressed onto the quick removable steering wheel hub.

enjoy
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post #18 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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more steering column and wheel pics

Title says it. This shows the quick release hub attached to the wheel. Of course those won't attach to the FFR wheel, so I had to machine up an adapter hub to make it all work.
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post #19 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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turn signal switch assembly cover

Ok, so after getting the switches in place I needed a cover for them, so I came up with what I thought would be functional not too wizzy and out of place. I feel this fits the bill.
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post #20 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Dash instrument panel

In a few pictures back you saw a card board template that I used to try to figure out where all the gauges and AC/Heater ducts should be. So from there I took measurements off from the card board and created a DXF file that I sent to a laser cutting place and had them cut my instrument panel out of .080" thick sheet aluminum. Next I built my glove box out of the same aluminum sheet that I used to create my passenger side foot box.
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post #21 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Glove box door

Well a glove box needs a door so that was next. I wanted to use a old mustang or Falcon glove box latch button that had a key. I believe it end up being for a Falcon. Then I designed the door kind of around the latch

I also wanted to have the Daytona script on it along with the letters SC for Super Coupe. Someone on this forum got me a copy of the script, I think it was a DXF file any how thank you, I don't remember who it was. So after I machined the glove box door, I powder coated it (Eastwood cheap gun and used appliance store cheap electric oven) then set it back up and engraved it with Daytona SC.
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post #22 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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dash pad

For the top of the dash/dash pad I used .040" thick aluminum sheet, same as what's used on all of the cockpit interior. I laid it out using card board then transferred it to the alum sheet. The dash is held down with hidden tapered head screws. They are attached to the back of the top 3/4 x 3/4. Square tube for the dash. The dash pad has holes that have slots incorporated into them. Looks like a skeleton key hole. When the dash pad is put in place, the fixed screw heads pass through the hole then the pad is pushed back and the screw slides down the slot. The head of the bolt will then hold the dash pad down. The front of the dash pad wedges between the wind shield an the body where the body supports the dash.

There will be 1 screw on each side of the dash pad that passes through the top but is in a inconspicuous place.
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post #23 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Dash Pad Front Radius

I also attached a piece of aluminum tube to the front of the dash pad. This one is 3/4" in diameter. I will also have this sprayed with Urethane foam and then shape it and cover it with Leather or Vinyl.
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post #24 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Break time

Well I'm ready to take a break. So enjoy, and I will post about the emergency brake relocate later.


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post #25 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Emergency brake

Ok, I don't have pictures of some of the in progress, but I do have some showing after mounted. The emergency brake setup from FFR probably works OK, but this was one that I just thought they should have went a little farther. Routing the cables under the frame rail and rubbing on the frame rail just wasn't for me. I'm not throwing stones, it's just my take. I also thought I would like the handle closer to me. I realize in the originals it is down on the floor. So that being said, since I already paid for the EB from FFR I decide to use as much of it as I could. I made a couple of round bosses that are internally threaded (M8x1.25 if I remember correctly) and I bolted them to the EB mount then clamped them in place and tack welded them. Then I un-bolted the EB and finish welded it. I also made up a new attachment piece that clamps onto the cables and holds them to the EB but allows them to swivel as you apply the EB.
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post #26 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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EB. continued

On the rear brakes I decide to use Lincoln Mark VIII rear rotors and calipers. The rotor are 11.25 if I remember correctly and the caliper has a larger piston than the Thunderbird caliper. A couple issues with doing this: one you have to build an adapter bracket for the caliper mount and two the caliper is setup on the emergency brake arm so that the inner cable is stationary and the outer casing moves. In other words the outer casing is push on the EB arm of the caliper. Because of this the cables move around as they are applied, especially out at the caliper. So I made some troughs out of splitting aluminum tube in half. And this kind of guides the cable where I want it to go, but still allows it to move. It's kind of a tight bend out at the tire, but they work fine. In the pictures you will also see the caliper bracket adapters.
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post #27 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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rear caliper and adapter bracket

Title says it.
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post #28 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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While we are on brakes, the front brakes are currently FFR supply rotors and calipers. If I need more stopping power I think I will go to 13" Cobra front brakes. That's the thought anyway.

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post #29 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Smile WIRING. "The big undertaking"

Ok, somewhere along this build, probably about right now in the build I had to open up the engine/trans wiring harness from the 97' Ford Explorer. These never came with manual trans, so I had to open it up and see what I wanted to keep and what I didn't. Most of the wires that went from the 104 pin EEC module to the trans I removed from the EEC connector and re-purposed them to do something else because I wanted to use the large connector in the harness as a firewall bulkhead connector. The wires that became available got used for other things like dash gauge signal wires, solenoid wire to starter, and other things. I kept the Speedo wires, reverse light wires, neutral safety, you get the idea. This was a large undertaking merging the Ron Francis with the Jim special one off Ford setup. I ended up adding another fuse box/relay box into the glove compartment. It kind of started out neat, but it's really hard to keep that way when your try to merge two different harnesses. Oh well it's behind the dash All of the connections were soldered and shrink wrapped so even though it looks a little messy there should never be any problems. Not sure what else to say about it. Enjoy the crazy pictures.
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post #30 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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wiring continued

More pictures
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