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post #61 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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SAI mod and Bumb Steer

I decided that it made sense to do this before finishing the car, rather than opening it back up later to do what I should have just taken care of. So I called Whitby, and talked with them, but they didn't have any of the mounts left that bolt onto the top of the spindle. They said they wouldn't have any for quite awhile so I offered to pay them for a print of those mounts and I would make them myself since I had come to a stand still. They thought about it for a coupe of days and decided they didn't want to do this, which is their prerogative. So I sat down at the tube and laid out the suspension pivot points based on allot of measuring on the car using big frame squares, straight edges, steel rules, and a car perfectly leveled to the concrete floor. Once I had this I began to layout the design of the SAI bracket. I had a general idea based on pictures I've seen. I have no intention on building these for sale and taking business from Whitby. Theirs are fairly priced and if they would have had them I would have bought them. So anyway I machined these, then laid out the brackets that needed to be welded to the frame to lower the upper control arm and move it outward. The really good part about this was it put the upper A arm pivot, Inner tie rod pivot and lower A arm pivot all inline with each other. The line isn't perfectly vertical BTW, but they are all inline. (That's a good thing to aid in getting rid of bump steer. So now that I had that taking care of and I had all the pivot points laid out on CAD I could see exactly where the outer tie rod end should be to cancel bump steer. So then I made some adapters to move the mounting point for the outer tie rod.
One hiccup By doing what I did It fixed 2 things, BUT it canceled steering Ackerman "oops" So luckily an FFR employee saw my post on this and gave me some advice. He said move the steering rack back against the X brace that holds the upper A arms. So I cut away the old rack mounts and drilled holes through the X brace and mounted the rack directly against it and got back some Ackerman. Not quit as much as they have on the new coupe suspension but not bad.

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post #62 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Bump steer continued

These pictures show the mounts that were built to be bolted and welded to the spindle to relocate the outer tie rod to the proper spot to get rid of bump steer in my application.

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post #63 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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Fixing Ackerman

Like I mentioned in the SAI post, by doing the things I did to get rid of bump steer I actually removed all Ackerman, which is a bummer, but I got rid of bump steer which is a great thing to get rid of in my opinion.

So with advice from FFR I moved the rack back which they did on the new coupes and roadsters.

By doing this I got back some Ackerman " yeah".

Here's pictures of the X brace mods to move the rack. On the passenger side the bolt hole is right tight to the bottom side of the 2 x 2 tube so I knew it wouldn't collapse as I tightened the rack mount bolt, but on the drivers side it is kind of in the middle of the 2 x 2 tube so I knew the tube would collapse so I slide a sleeve that just fit over the bolt inside the box tub and welded it in so the 2 x 2 wouldn't collapse. You'll also notice I had to notch the 2x2 for the steer shaft housing part of the rack to clear.
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post #64 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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rear brake ducts

Finally got the brake ducts glassed in. They still need to have the front contoured to the body and then glass the front of the seam and finish, but one step at a time

The wood sticks on the inside of the scoop are cedar wedges to hold the scoop from collapsing or bowing in while the glass cures. Just wanted to make absolutely sure that it wouldn't bow in. Going to let the glass cure one more day to make sure, then I will remove the wood and contour.

I also took pictures that show the back. The red ridge around the outlet is Yarn. I used it to build up a bead that will help hold the hoses on. I coated them with resin, it worked good.
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post #65 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Rear brake Ducts continued

One more picture to show the drivers side.
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post #66 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Bump steer diagram that I used for reference

I meant to post this when I talked about the SAI mod and Bump steer.

This is what I used for a reference on how to get where I wanted to be for close to zero bump steer. Upper arm, lower Arm, and tie rod all meeting at the same instant center. This is what I went for and it worked for me.
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post #67 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Tough Crowd

You guys are a tough crowd, only 3 comments.

Is there something you'd like to see that I didn't cover or something answered that I didn't cover?

I'm out of material to talk about until I get some more things done on the coupe, so now's a good time in thread if you'd like to ask something or have comments good or bad.


Jim
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post #68 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 01:07 AM
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Hi Jim

I think that you have ALOT of material to digest here....it's going to take some time for people to get their heads around some of it. You have to remember that each builder is only at one of the many stages you posted...so they can only relate to a few posts at most.

I think it is a great summary. Thanks for posting.

Marc

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post #69 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 01:54 AM
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I myself am still in the "shock and awe" stage looking at your thread... Everything looks great! The only problem is that it makes me want to do more extra things to my coupe...
CDN5.0 thanked this.

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post #70 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 02:40 AM
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Great information for someone daydreaming and/or planning a build.

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post #71 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 04:42 AM
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Well after digesting all that has been done, I have to say your fabrication skills are absolutely incredible!! You must have a background in designing, machining, TIG welding, etc. I don't think I would have tackled all of this, especially fooling with the steering.

Bill

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post #72 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 07:07 AM
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There are some craftsman out there.. and then there is me.. lol

Is brilliant.. well done and thanks for posting.

Chris

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post #73 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimS View Post
You guys are a tough crowd, only 3 comments.

Is there something you'd like to see that I didn't cover or something answered that I didn't cover?

I'm out of material to talk about until I get some more things done on the coupe, so now's a good time in thread if you'd like to ask something or have comments good or bad.


Jim
Dont be Harsh on yourself . me personally I am subscribed to your thread. I learn a lot. But as many said your work is advanced. I will be afraid to attempt and do the modifications .

Keep up the good work and please dont stop!

Hakeem
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post #74 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Guy's, all very well put statements. I'm such a feed back guy that I didn't stop to think about as Marc said different stages of the build, or maybe overwhelmed by some of the posts. I get so wrapped up in my build that I sometimes forget that everybody doesn't having the same back ground as me and some stuff may look completely confusing or overwhelming. My bad.

I will continue to post my progress and try to be as clear as possible on things I did, and if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask, I will try to help in anyway I can.

Keep enjoying, and I'll keep trying to adding interesting stuff:


Jim
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post #75 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 12:01 PM
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Jim,
Truly amazing work! Your fabrication skills are off the charts. I for one was waiting for you to catch your breath and didn't want to interrupt such a flow of amazing posts. Get it all out, as I really can't wait to see what else you've done. Truly a great read and an amazing build. Great work! -- I
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post #76 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 07:28 PM
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I like your approach on the dash. AS I've done several different approaches to making the dash I never thought about framing it the way you have.

Looks great, just like the rest of the build.

John

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post #77 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 08:14 PM
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I kinda felt the same way at first with my thread which is nowhere near the level of mods as yours. People read but just do not need to comment. Just watch the viewed count rise and you will know it's being looked at.

Nice work though
Quote:
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You guys are a tough crowd, only 3 comments.

Is there something you'd like to see that I didn't cover or something answered that I didn't cover?

I'm out of material to talk about until I get some more things done on the coupe, so now's a good time in thread if you'd like to ask something or have comments good or bad.


Jim

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post #78 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 09:59 PM
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We're out here hanging on every word, Jim. Keep 'em coming!
I have a bunch of crazy ideas for mods but I'm taking my time to scope them out with my kit and learning all I can from posts like yours.
I especially like what you did with the AC. I was helping a friend with his 67 Firebird and noticed that a lot it extends under the hood. Why not!

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post #79 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 10:29 PM
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... And that dash is pretty cool, too!

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post #80 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-19-2015, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thankyou

Thank you for all the kind words. I'm glad all of you are enjoying the thread.
I'll try to keep up the good work and keep you interested.


Take care,

Jim
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post #81 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 07:18 AM
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Hi Jim,

Took your lead.. easier to fit the ductwork for the AC when its on the 'other' side of the cross brace with a few bits of PVC.. Made a couple of manifolds in 50 - 62 mm for the AC and floor vents and also drew up these parts for printing in ABS on my 3D printer.. easier and more space efficient than using PVC junctions.

Cheers..

Chris
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Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
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Fabrication and recoating complete - 25 October
Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
Engine running - October 2015
First gokart - December 2015

TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #82 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Very nice. That's awesome you have access to a 3D printer. Makes things a little easier :-). I actually had to heat the PVC up until it became rubbery so I could make it a little oblong on one piece so the printer would definitely be the way to go. What is the primary product that you produce with your printer?


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post #83 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 07:08 PM
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Hi Jim,

also drew up these parts for printing in ABS on my 3D printer

Chris
Chris,

Now you're just not playing fair!!

John

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post #84 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-21-2015, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
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I meant to post this when I talked about the SAI mod and Bump steer.

This is what I used for a reference on how to get where I wanted to be for close to zero bump steer. Upper arm, lower Arm, and tie rod all meeting at the same instant center. This is what I went for and it worked for me.
I am not sure I thought I posted my question but looks like I didnt!

I have some questions here please;

1) on the photo it says the Inner mount Plane; what are these??
2) is the intersection point should be on the center of car? or any other location?

Thanks
Hakeem
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post #85 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-21-2015, 04:21 PM
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Excellent work! Do you have the machines at home to make the parts or at work? I'd like to see some of your work setup? Lots of good ideas when I build the next one.

-Tim-


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post #86 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-21-2015, 10:53 PM
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Chris,

Now you're just not playing fair!!

John
Hey John.... the incompetent will take any advantage they can get..

Coupe 65 #646

Ordered - 28 May, 2014.
Delivery, Sydney - 18 August.
Fabrication and recoating complete - 25 October
Assembly commenced -27 October
Engine installed - 18 December 2014
Engine running - October 2015
First gokart - December 2015

TR6060, LS3 motor, IRS, Willwood brake upgrade, three channel ABS, 17'' replica rims, sat nav / stereo, Motec PDM and keypad, AC, adjustable steering column,
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post #87 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-21-2015, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I am not sure I thought I posted my question but looks like I didnt!

I have some questions here please;

1) on the photo it says the Inner mount Plane; what are these??
2) is the intersection point should be on the center of car? or any other location?

Thanks
Hakeem
Hakeem,

Reference that bump steer drawing as your reading this.

Inner mount plane: A plane is an imaginary plane that passes through the pivot points. A good way to think of it is imagine a piece of paper that passes through the inner pivot points of the upper A-arm an the lower A-arm. forming a plane. It looks like a line on a 2 dimensional drawing when looked at from the front. So what you want is to make the inner tie rod pivot point, land on that inner plane OK. Then you want to draw a plane that passes through the ball joints of the A-arms, this will be the outer plane. Ok now draw a line through the top A-arm ball joint and the inner pivot point. Do the same on the lower arm, see where they meet on the drawing, that is the instant center and "No it doesn't need to be in the center of the car". Ok now draw a line from the instant center through the inner tie rod end and keep going until you meet the outer plane line. Where it meets the outer plane line "Is exactly where you want your outer tie rod pivot to be" if you don't want bump steer.

If this doesn't make sense let me know.

Jim
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post #88 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-21-2015, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent work! Do you have the machines at home to make the parts or at work? I'd like to see some of your work setup? Lots of good ideas when I build the next one.
Tim,

I program and run a 5-axis vertical machine center at work. I work in a Prototype environment. When the machines aren't tied up running jobs we can use them on the weekends sometimes. So that's how the intake and other complex parts were machined. I have a Monarch EE lathe and Anilam controlled Bridgeport 3 axis machine, Kalamazoo Startrite band saw, TIG welder and MIG welder all at home out in my shop. So all of the welding and lighter machining takes place at home. It's taken me several years to acquire all this equipment, but well worth it.
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post #89 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Brake Ducts continued

I finally got a chance to trim the ducts to the shape of the body. At the seam it didn't fill very well so I ground it out so I could fill it with a mixture of resin 1/4" chopped fiberglass and Cabosil mixed to a peanut butter thickness.

It isn't an ideal seam like Mike from Atlanta would recommend, but it will have to do. I actually tried to put glass cloth down into the seam by using 3M 77, and it looked great, but then I put a thin coat of resin on it and it all popped up and caused an air pocket so I ditch that idea and just used the mixture.

I will let that cure for a couple of days then grind on it on Tuesday and get the inlet shaped with a nice radius all around.
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post #90 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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one more pic

Last picture.
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