JimS Daytona SC Build - Page 2 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #31 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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wiring continued

A few more. You can see in some of these that I had to remove the old injector connectors and solder on new ones for the smaller injectors. I'm using Cadillac CTSV injectors BTW. I need really small injectors to fit in my package space. I also had to change the lengths of some of the other wires just because my setup is different than the Ford explorer. You'll see that I moved the coils back behind the motor to get them out of the way, which meant re-routing the coil wires.



If you have questions feel free to ask.

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post #32 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Engine

Well I finally made it to a topic that everybody typically likes. My Engine is a 97' 5.0l Ford explorer. It was picked because it has DIS which eliminates having a big distributor in the way of my SC snout. The motor is bored .030" over, it has Forged pistons with valve reliefs that yielding approximately 9 to 1 compression. The rods are Scat because there slightly more money than reconditioning the old rods and they are beefier. The crank is a 28oz Eagle cast steel crank with standard stroke, slightly beefier than stock. I'm using studs and a girdle on the mains and studs to hold the heads down. Cam shaft is from Comp Cams. It's a hydraulic roller cam with a supercharger intended grind and has 114deg lobe separation. If you really want to know the specs I'll have to look at the cam card I don't remember that was awhile ago. Heads were purchased as bare Patriot performance heads, which I thoroughly measured over and installed Eaton Valves and Comp Cam hardware. Oh and I drilled the exhaust port flange for the wider pattern so that when I built the headers I'd have more bolt head room. The oil pan is the cast aluminum Explorer that I heavily modified and made a trap door sump in it. Hey it needed to be shortened anyway and while I was right there, I could help myself. You guys know how that goes. The intake is my design and a one off.
I think I'll leave it right there and let you look at the pictures.

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Last edited by JimS; 02-15-2015 at 04:33 PM.
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post #33 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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oil pan

As I said in the last post it is a modified Explorer pan.

Pictures tell a thousand words and saves me from typing
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post #34 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Pan continued

As I was working on the pan I knew that even though I was clamping it down to the bench to keep the pan rail flat it would most likely warp slightly. So when I finished welding on it, I clamped it down to a extremely flat surface (not the motor since it was assembled) then I used a large rose bud torch and brought the whole oil pan up to a high temp (approx. 400 F) then let it slowly cool then un-clamped it and problem solved. That said I knew I could not powder coat it because that may re-warp it. So I used hi temp wrinkle spray paint instead.
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post #35 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Accessory Bracket

I guess this would be next or the intake. I was pretty lucky with this because Ford put the bracket right where I needed it, it just need some additions. This bracket from the Ford Explorer only held the Alternator, 1 static idler and the Belt tensioner idler. I needed to add a boss for one more static idler and a boss to hold the Vintage Air AC compressor. This makes the belt routing picture perfect. Ideally you want the SC to be the first accessory the crank is powering because it uses the most power, then all others after due to belt stretch. My setup has the belt routed around the water pump just before the crank which works out well because it causes the belt to wrap further around the crank and it positions the belt in a good spot so I'm good with it. Then the belt continues around the SC then down around the extra idler I added to get it setup perfect to go around the alternator and giving plenty of belt wrap, then around the AC compressor, and on to the Tensioner, then back out to go around the static ford idler and back to the crank. So here are the pictures of that accessory bracket and some of the more showing the route.
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post #36 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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AccessoryBracket continued

Here are some more showing the other bracket made of steel that holds the other part of AC compressor, This bracket attaches under the alternator. The final picture show it in place and the routing.
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post #37 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Break time

Gotta take a break.

Enjoy the thread and I'll try to do some more later.


Jim
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post #38 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 06:15 PM
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Hey Jim,

Thanks for posting all this. It's a great summary well worth sharing.

I think that if I had seen this while I was still building I would have been very discouraged....now that I am done (well almost), I just feel inadequate.

This will be a great car!

Marc

It's just a matter of time.

2009 FFR Coupe # 434 Gen I. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch FIA style pin drive wheels, SAI, 3-link. First drive: April 2014
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post #39 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Marc,

Thank you for such kind words. Coming from someone who has built an amazing car it means a lot. Your car has turned out great. If mine looks that good when I'm done I will be elated. I plan on painting mine myself so I hope it goes well, but I really want to do it all myself. I have a big enough shop that I built a paint booth in part of it, so I have a place to do it versus not having that. It's not completely done yet, but it will be by the time I'm ready, I hope:-). I used to paint a little bit back when I was in high school (years ago). My dad had a 40 x 40 shop that we worked on heavy equipment in and he would let me use it on the weekends for painting. I miss not having a place to paint. I was hesitant to frame in a booth because it takes up a lot of space, but I use it to store stuff or what ever, so it's not like it's un-used space so it's worked out ok.

Take care,

Jim
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post #40 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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wind shield wiper motor placement

I almost for got to cover this. I should have done it right after the AC/heater core. Oh well here it is. I needed to mount mine out of the traditional spot, just running out of room behind dash, so I mounted it in the passenger foot box area. I placed it so that the cable comes up at an angle and makes a gentle radius up to the wiper gear boxes. The cable runs between the firewall and the heater core, just enough room to thread it through there

My Lucas wiper/washer switch on the steering column works great with the Lucas motor. Park works great. The switch has a moment function by pulling it down and it spring back up, this puts it through one cycle. It also has low and high. I used 5/16" steel brake line tubing for the casing.

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post #41 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Intake and SC and SC inlet

I don't seem to have pictures of the intake off the engine, thought I did. I designed and machine the intake and supporting hardware: thermostat housing, super charger inlet, Intercooler that's inside the intake, under the SC. These are all one offs and won't be duplicated by me anyway On the SC inlet I machined the flange part that bolts to the SC and that bolts to the throttle, then made the rest out of Cast aluminum 90 degree elbows. Fuel rails started out life as Cadillac CTSV fuel rails. Extensive cutting and reworking got them to how I needed them. The port spacing on an LS motor and a SBF are exactly the same. I was going to use extruded aluminum rails but they were to bulky by the SC bypass shaft and assembly. So I needed to use the Cadillac rails which are more petite.
On the picks of the SC inlet you'll see that I extensively welded up the inside of a cast 90. I had to do this to be able to convert round pipe to somewhat oval. Once I had it welded up I ground on it and re-shaped it and got it close. The welded the 90 to the SC flange then finished porting the inside so the transition was nice and smooth. I then welded straight pipe to it then another 90 and a throttle flange.
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post #42 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Continued

More pics
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post #43 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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last pic of SC inlet

Last one
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post #44 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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SS Headers and Mufflers

Ok so as you would have already read I modified the passengers side foot box which makes the header kind of close. When I got the headers from FFR I wasn't extremely happy with the quality of the ones I received. I sent them back and received another pair that wasn't much better and it was apparent to me I was going to have to message them and they were already powder coated so that makes it a little harder and they were scratched up just out of the box. So I called FFR and made a deal to send them back in exchange for Kirky seats. So then that forced me to build my own, sometimes you just need a nudge I have built headers before and these are easier because they are out in the open where you can get at them, and it allowed me to build them out of Stainless which will help with heat containment, So off I went. The pictures will show you how to go about building headers. You buy 90 degree bends and cut them and rotate them to how you want them. It's just a bunch of 90's cut up and fitted together. Columbia River Mandrel Bending is who I get my stuff from. They have the collectors too, basically everything you need. The 2 back cylinders on each side I had to buy the 90's from Woolf Aircraft products. These are really tight bends because of the space limitations. Columbia doesn't have that tight of a bend available.
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post #45 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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SS header continued

More pics
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post #46 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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SS headers cont

And more
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post #47 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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SS Header cont

And the last for the headers
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post #48 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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SS Mufflers

The headers actually went pretty quick. Believe or not I had all of the primary tubes tack together and ready to weld all the way around each seem and the seem at the header flange in 1 weekend, that's working Friday night too The welding all the way around each seem is kind of time consuming.

So on to the Mufflers. I was going to use the stock ones from FRR, but it seemed like allot of people weren't happy with them. They burn out quickly and are really restrictive is what I read?? So since I was building the headers I might as well build the mufflers and in the process make them re-buildable and out of Stainless Steel.
Making them so that they would come apart added a lot of time to building them. I was never so glad to have them done. When I finished the last bit of TIG welding on these it was like completing a marathon.
I used 2-3/8" OD perforated SS pipe for the inside of the mufflers. The inside diameter is 2-1/4" which worked out great because the pipes leading into the muffler are 2-1/4" OD so they slide right in. I had to build the front and back end caps for the mufflers out of 2 different pipe sizes and then I had SS washers laser cut and built dies to form the washers into a cone. Then welded the big pipe flange to one end of the cone and the little pipe flange to the other. This part was the huge time consumer. I'm going to post the pictures and hopefully this will explain the rest rather then rambling on.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Jim
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post #49 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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SS Mufflers continued

Lots of pictures to show all of the process
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post #50 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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SS Mufflers continued

And more
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post #51 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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SS Muffler last pictures

Title says it: last Muffler pictures. I'm going take a break.


Enjoy.

Comment if you'd like to or questions if you have any.


Jim
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post #52 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimS View Post
Marc,

Thank you for such kind words. Coming from someone who has built an amazing car it means a lot. Your car has turned out great. If mine looks that good when I'm done I will be elated. I plan on painting mine myself so I hope it goes well, but I really want to do it all myself. I have a big enough shop that I built a paint booth in part of it, so I have a place to do it versus not having that. It's not completely done yet, but it will be by the time I'm ready, I hope:-).

Take care,

Jim
Knowing what went into mine, I appreciate the amount of work you are doing.

Marc

It's just a matter of time.

2009 FFR Coupe # 434 Gen I. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch FIA style pin drive wheels, SAI, 3-link. First drive: April 2014
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post #53 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Engine coolant tubes

I have somewhat of a funny story about the top coolant tube. I was looking over the setup to try and figure out how I was going to route the coolant tubes. Once I figured out what I wanted for the top tube and knew I needed 1-1/2" tube, I thought I was going to have to ordering some. While I was sitting there looking at the car I happen to glance over to my pile of tubing odds and ends sitting in the corner and I saw some Stainless steel bathroom handy cap bars that I pulled out of the scrape steel gondola at work from them remodeling the bathroom. I hate to see nice pieces of SS tubing getting scraped :-). Well it just so happens that those bars are 1-1/2 diameter and they have nice Mandrel bent ends. So I cut them up and used them for the top coolant tube

The bottom tube is left overs from the muffler build.
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post #54 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Intercooler water pipes

I built the Intercooler. (IC) pipes out of 3/4" residential copper water pipe. I then powder coated it with Black Mini Texture to tame it down, so it doesn't stick out so much. The last picture shows the IC heat exchanger mounted up in front of the radiator
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post #55 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Expansion tank and IC coolant tank

I don't have a picture of the IC circulation pump, but it is a Bosch Mercedes unit. It's a little better than the Bosch Ford Lightning pump.

On the Engine Coolant Expansion tank and IC coolant tank, I wanted to have them consolidated into the same tank from appearance, but be isolated from each other so ones temperature didn't effect the other. This is what I came up with. I was able to buy the thread bungs that the caps go on from Canton. This was nice, one less thing to machine and the price was very reasonable.
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post #56 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Expansion tank continued

Title says it. In the last picture you can see the IC coolant pipes are now powder coated, no more copper color.
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post #57 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission

Transmission is a T5 G-Force, Bell Housing is a steel Quick Time. I'm using the stock through out arm with the end modified to accept a small rod end that is hooked to a push shaft that goes into a Clutch Slave cylinder, that I got from Speedway motors. I believe it is a 7/8" slave and I'm using the same size clutch master with the Wilwood pedal arrangement. Sorry to say I don't have pictures of most of this. I have pictures of the bracket I made that bolts to the side of the T5 and holds the slave cylinder. It seems to work fine, but I haven't really driven the car yet so we'll see.
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post #58 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 12:42 AM
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Amazing work!


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post #59 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Coming from you Ron I don't know what to say, other than thank you. Your fiberglass work on your car blows my mind. The interior work is just simply AMAZING.


Jim
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post #60 of 288 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Air Cleaner air box

Originally I was going to try and route the air inlet and air cleaner towards the front of the car and try to pickup fresh air up there, but it just seemed like it was going to be really tight.
I came up with the idea to build a box and set it on top of the passenger foot box. The plan is to cut the hood opening where the original Coupes have the rectangular opening for the Carburetor turkey tray. The opening that is at the back of the hood bubble. Then I will build a low profile duct that is attached to the bottom side of the hood and it will direct air over to the top of the air box. The air box will have a Bulb seal around the top of it that will seal to the ducted when the hood is closed, so it should be nice cool air from the windshield area "sort of". Hope this makes sense.


Jim
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