RTV recs on engine reassembly - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 351
RTV recs on engine reassembly

Putting my 289 SBF back together. Any recs on where I need RTV/gasket vs gasket alone (timing cover, water pump,
intake, etc.) ?
I have a Felpro gasket kit and bought an additional one piece oil pan gasket to replace the multi piece cork ones in the kit.

egchewy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 10:30 PM
Official OLD GUY
FFCars Captain
 
Big Blocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Lost Wages, Nevada
Posts: 3,715
RTV use

Any place the curve meets the flat for the pan gasket - in the corners where the flat of the block meets the rubber seal groove(s)
Put a small amount in the rubber seal "groove" of the timing cover and rear main.

Get rid of any cork gaskets on your intake.

Put a bead of RTV across the front and back "Dam" wall with an extra amount in the junction of the intake/Dam wall/head(s) (corners) at both ends.
Put a small "smear" around your water ports on the intake - don't forget to "seal" your head bolts as half of them go into water jackets . . .

There is a [well] proven method for installing a SBF intake, quite a few videos on Youtube showing the "proper" way to do it so it's a once-n-done, operation. Follow the torgue sequence exactly and go over it at least 4/5 times. Use corner studs to get it lined up when placing it in position. Replace them when its time to torque that position.

Water pumps and timing covers need RTV everywhere.

HTH

Doc

Big Blocker is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 01:28 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,514
I'm mostly with Doc as usual. Front cover and water pump get just a smear, not a full bead. With the one piece pan gasket just a small blob in the corners. As for the intake I STRONGLY recommend that you use a steel core set such as Victor Reintz Nitro Seal or Fel-Pro number 1250S3. Stay away from the non laminated "Print-O-Seal" Fel-Pro. As Doc said ditch the end gaskets and instead use a healthy bead of RTV (I like Great Stuff) on the front and back china walls. Since your engine is on a stand you'll be able to verify that you have full contact as you set the intake into place. Again, you can add a smear or light bead around the water ports. Again, agreeing with Doc, run the intake torque pattern several times; I usually go around 8-10 times with at least one or 2 of those being the next day after the gasket has relaxed. As far as head bolts, yes the lowers go into coolant and must have sealant. I use a PTFE paste from ARP, #100-9904. Although the uppers are dry holes I add the same sealant to them so that when being torqued the coefficient of friction is the same on all bolts whether wet or dry.

Good luck!

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 01:42 PM
FFCobra Craftsman
 
CraigS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Blacksburg, Va
Posts: 22,069
I have never liked the feel of the intake bolts. So last time I had the intake off I installed ARP studs.
https://arpcatalog.com/84/
Tightening a high quality nut on to a high quality stud is much better at getting a good torque compared to bolts into heads. I second the multiple re-checks. I did mine twice before firing it up and then did it 5-6 more times once it cooled after every heat cycle. Yep, it took that many before a few nuts stopped moving a bit when torqued.
RTV? I prefer Ultra Grey because it is a slightly thicker consistency than blue and black. I tried the 'Right Stuff' once and it worked great sealing up a water pump. But several months later nothing would come out of the can. So it was about a $15 water pump seal. I won't buy any more.
Test your intake fit dry. You may be surprised how little gap there is between the intake and the front and rear block walls. Now you have a better idea how much sealer it will take to seal.

FFR 5353K, 408W, TKO 500, 2015 IRS w/ 315 gear, Breeze QA1 DA coilovers front and rear, APE hardtop, Forte front swaybar

Last edited by CraigS; 11-10-2019 at 01:47 PM.
CraigS is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 351
I've watched some YouTube videos where RTV was also placed around the water ports above and below the gasket on either end if the heads. Anyone recommend this or disagree?
egchewy is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
I'm mostly with Doc as usual. Front cover and water pump get just a smear, not a full bead. With the one piece pan gasket just a small blob in the corners. As for the intake I STRONGLY recommend that you use a steel core set such as Victor Reintz Nitro Seal or Fel-Pro number 1250S3. Stay away from the non laminated "Print-O-Seal" Fel-Pro. As Doc said ditch the end gaskets and instead use a healthy bead of RTV (I like Great Stuff) on the front and back china walls. Since your engine is on a stand you'll be able to verify that you have full contact as you set the intake into place. Again, you can add a smear or light bead around the water ports. Again, agreeing with Doc, run the intake torque pattern several times; I usually go around 8-10 times with at least one or 2 of those being the next day after the gasket has relaxed. As far as head bolts, yes the lowers go into coolant and must have sealant. I use a PTFE paste from ARP, #100-9904. Although the uppers are dry holes I add the same sealant to them so that when being torqued the coefficient of friction is the same on all bolts whether wet or dry.

Good luck!

Jeff
Thanks, and I did use ARP thread sealant on both upper and lower head bolts. Any of the front bolts (timing cover, water pump) needing sealant as well? Thought I saw a video talking about some of these coming in contact with coolant.
egchewy is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2019, 01:20 PM
FFCobra Craftsman
 
CraigS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Blacksburg, Va
Posts: 22,069
Yes to RTV around the water ports in the intake gaskets. A thin smear on both sides.

FFR 5353K, 408W, TKO 500, 2015 IRS w/ 315 gear, Breeze QA1 DA coilovers front and rear, APE hardtop, Forte front swaybar
CraigS is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 01:10 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: 7 Crestview Avenue, Medway, MA 02053
Posts: 2,434
A bargain

Craig - I concur on the intake bolts vs studs and have been meaning to re-torque mine but never seem to get around to it.
On The Right Stuff - it is the only thing to ever really seal my SBF water pumps so at $15+ it is a bargain vs living with a drip or removal and replacement. It also comes in a shorty caulking cartridge which may be more uncloggable than the cheese whiz pressurized can.
Also, with The Right Stuff, you don't need the oversize blue paper gaskets which look so bad on a new engine assembly.
Mark Reynolds is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
I have never liked the feel of the intake bolts. So last time I had the intake off I installed ARP studs.
https://arpcatalog.com/84/
Tightening a high quality nut on to a high quality stud is much better at getting a good torque compared to bolts into heads. I second the multiple re-checks. I did mine twice before firing it up and then did it 5-6 more times once it cooled after every heat cycle. Yep, it took that many before a few nuts stopped moving a bit when torqued.
RTV? I prefer Ultra Grey because it is a slightly thicker consistency than blue and black. I tried the 'Right Stuff' once and it worked great sealing up a water pump. But several months later nothing would come out of the can. So it was about a $15 water pump seal. I won't buy any more.
Test your intake fit dry. You may be surprised how little gap there is between the intake and the front and rear block walls. Now you have a better idea how much sealer it will take to seal.
thanks for the recs. bought a set of APR studs for my intake.
do you recommend using any thread sealer on the studs going in to the block? I've seen contradictory opinions.
and do I really need to torque the studs down, or just get them tight enough, since the nuts are doing all the work from above?
egchewy is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 05:52 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Major
 
rich grsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: O'Fallon, Mo
Posts: 7,362
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
I've watched some YouTube videos where RTV was also placed around the water ports above and below the gasket on either end if the heads. Anyone recommend this or disagree?
Head gaskets should go on dry, adding anything changes the thickness and could cause issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
thanks for the recs. bought a set of APR studs for my intake.
do you recommend using any thread sealer on the studs going in to the block? I've seen contradictory opinions.
and do I really need to torque the studs down, or just get them tight enough, since the nuts are doing all the work from above?
The studs are going into the heads, dry holes, no thread sealant should be used. I use double nuts on studs, just get them tight, no need to torque them. Remember, should the heads have to come off for repairs, the studs need to come out.

rich grsc is offline  
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 351
The studs are going into the heads, dry holes, no thread sealant should be used. I use double nuts on studs, just get them tight, no need to torque them. Remember, should the heads have to come off for repairs, the studs need to come out.[/QUOTE]

To be clear, I'm talking about intake manifold bolts and studs, not head studs. Still no sealant on intake studs?
egchewy is offline  
post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:23 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Major
 
rich grsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: O'Fallon, Mo
Posts: 7,362
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
The studs are going into the heads, dry holes, no thread sealant should be used. I use double nuts on studs, just get them tight, no need to torque them. Remember, should the heads have to come off for repairs, the studs need to come out.
To be clear, I'm talking about intake manifold bolts and studs, not head studs. Still no sealant on intake studs?[/QUOTE]

Yes, that is what I said, into the heads. Studs to hold the heads, go into the block, they would need sealant on the lower studs.
rich grsc is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
DaleM
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.