Missing a cylinder - please help me figure why - Page 3 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #61 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 05:13 AM
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Bad EEC

The injectors are fired by a grounding Triac in the EEC. IF that Triac is bad, injector won't fire, plain and simple. Swapping injectors doesn't test the EEC, or for that matter, the salt-n-pepper connectors if they are still in the circuit.

The injector can be tested out of the car by connecting 12V to it and then grounding it, IF it "clicks", it's probable good. That takes us back to the EEC and those Triacs that perform the grounding. Has the EEC been opened up and checked? Burnt traces, burnt components . . .

Has the EEC been swapped out with a known good working unit?

Also, has the injector been removed and the fuel rail checked for any obstructions at the #8 port?

Maybe the rail is plugged up and there is fuel at the injector and the injector is firing but the fuel can't get there dues to some sort of debris in the line. Swapping injector wouldn't matter if the line is plugged.

Just trying to help . . .

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post #62 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the suggestions - Very much appreciated!
I have planned to take the afternoon off from work today, so I can work a bit more on it.
Since I have a different intake I want to put on it anyway, I will remove the lower intake and try to see if we can eliminate the lifters and intake gaskets as possible causes.
If no luck on that I will move on to the suggested ECU/wiring.


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post #63 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 10:27 PM
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I, for one, will be really interested in what you find when you take the lower intake off. Remember to drain some coolant first. That's one of those don't ask me how I know things!

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post #64 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm B View Post
I, for one, will be really interested in what you find when you take the lower intake off. Remember to drain some coolant first. That's one of those don't ask me how I know things!

Norm
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post #65 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
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Here is a video of the valves with the valve cover off. Number 8 is to the far right.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoFLJPBnL-megP5O1F8SZdsxZD9XUw

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post #66 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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It looks like the intake gasket is intact:


Exhaust lifter seems fine also. The intake lifter did not want to come out. Guess there is not enough clearence on the AFR heads without grinding material away.


Is there anything else I can/should check while I am in here?

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post #67 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 02:55 AM
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Not that it changes anything, unless you are running your plug wires using that info, but I do not think that is #8.

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post #68 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 04:24 AM
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cylinder missing

After watching the video provided, doesn't look as if it's a "mechanical" issue that is kicking you to the ground, so to speak. Valve train seems to be working fine . . .

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post #69 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 11:50 AM
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#8

I am with BB. All looks well, BUT I would still manually rotate it through a full 720 deg cycle and check for proper valve timing in relation to crank angle.

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post #70 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by railroad View Post
Not that it changes anything, unless you are running your plug wires using that info, but I do not think that is #8.

I'm working on driver's side bank all the way in the back.

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post #71 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
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I'm working on driver's side bank all the way in the back.
Your are RIGHT. Excuse my mistake.
Do not know what I can blame it on, but woke up this morning and realized it.
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post #72 of 80 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 10:47 AM
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#8

Any updates?

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post #73 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Any updates?

Krusty
Yes, good timing! I took half a day off from work today to get back in the garage and get this sorted out. I was going to do a full 720 degree timing check to see that all valves were doing what they were supposed do. Took the passenger side valve cover off and this stared me right in the face...


Now I don't know what to believe any longer. I guess Trevor was right when he predicted there is likely more than one thing wrong - unless of cause there is way that a bad #4 intake rocker can affect #8 also.
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post #74 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:35 AM
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That's ugly. #4 & #8 both share the same cam section between the rear cam bearings. My $$ is still on a broken cam.

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post #75 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:13 AM
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That rocker damage may have caused the #8 problem with the possible cam wipe out due to the debris running through the bearings.

Are you sure 1.7 ratio rockers are ok with your cam. You may have binding and this was the result.

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post #76 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:54 PM
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That rocker damage most likely will have caused damage to the valve guide and other components in that area. The valve, the spring retainers and cap will have to be inspected and replaced as necessary. I hate to say it but, a complete tear down might be in order. At the very least that head should come off and be checked, the oil pan removed and the oil pump replaced. Those parts went somewhere.


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post #77 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:16 PM
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Cam Bad

I totally agree with Krusty and Norn B on their statements: #4 & #8 do share a common [last] section on the cam shaft and their close proximity could, very possibly, effect one another.

A total tear down is absolutely a given at this point. Broken parts get ground up and distributed to every place in an engine - causing failure to rod and main bearings - which in turn will wipe out a crank or rod(s).

At least pull the pan and pull the rod and main caps to check bearing condition. Flushing out all the oil passages is not a fun process with the engine assembled. Hence, the teardown.

Sorry to hear, and see your problems . . .

Doc

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post #78 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:25 PM
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I think I see the roller tip wedged above the head bolt, so thats one part accounted for. Sorry for your troubles, luckily the nice driving weather is coming to an end, so it can be a long winter project instead of a rush job. Good luck in the tear down and keep us posted.

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post #79 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the input!

I am slowly getting used to the idea of pulling the engine - especially since it seems as a minimum I have to pull the one head (the damaged valve is hard to push down, so it is probably bent). Also still no diagnosis for #8, so that will be a lot easier to do on the engine stand if pulling the cam shaft is the way to do that.


So far the only bit that is unaccounted for is the pin that goes through the roller bearing and the broken part of the rocker - so hoping for finding that in the oil pan.

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post #80 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:36 PM
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It is so easy to pull the motor on these cars (couple hours of work), I always pull it out and put the motor on a stand. Some much easier to work on.
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