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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Windshield posts

My windshield post donít even come close to fitting the curve at the top. Top screw, no way itís going in. And whatís the deal with the milled part haft way in the holes. Is that to of set the post? One post has beat up up all day. I need some advice before in brake something!!

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 03:58 AM
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Windshield Post

Sounds like you are a bit frustrated. This is the time to take a step back and work on something else for a while. The posts take a little work to get right.

I am not entirely sure what you are trying to describe. Perhaps describe one issue at a time.

It is not uncommon for the post to require shims to get them to sit correctly. You want to make sure that there is no pressure exerted on the windshield when you bolt everything up. Take your time and don't force anything.

Posting a couple of pictures would be helpful so that we can get you the correct information. I had my own frustrations installing the windshield.

Also, use the search tool to find solutions others have come up with. This forum is a wealth of information. You just need to ask the right questions.

Here are just a few threads you can start reading.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ml#post6055576

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ml#post4073169

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ml#post4770777


Quote:
Originally Posted by 40kid View Post
My windshield post don’t even come close to fitting the curve at the top. Top screw, no way it’s going in. And what’s the deal with the milled part haft way in the holes. Is that to of set the post? One post has beat up up all day. I need some advice before in brake something!!




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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 11:44 AM
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Yep the posts are crap. The curve at the top is almost always wrong. That ridge doesn't mate w/ anything on the frame around the glass. All you can do about that is install the 4 screws and it will fit to the frame however it fits. Whitby's has an SS piece and new screws to replace the brass piece inside the glass frame. It will last a little longer w/o stripping the threads like the brass one does. I recommend buying the smallest phillps screw driver that will fit the screws and be real careful how much effort you use. Installing the w/s is a trial of patience. It can easily eat up 4 hours or more. The posts need to have both a slight bend and a slight twist done to them to fit the car. The mount plates on the frame are vertical and parallel to each other so this is how I do the posts.
20190402_092159 by craig stuard, on Flickr
Do the bend and the twist just below the w/s frame so it is hidden inside the body.
Another recommendation is throw away the lock nuts FFR supplies and get 8 regular nuts. This way you can run them on the bolts by hand and only need a wrench for the last turn or two. Use one nut per bolt for all your many trial fittings. Once it's final, run another nut on as a jam nut.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 12:38 PM
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From my build log:

Post 397

While I was working on the top foot box panel, on a whim I checked to see if the slot for the windshield post was wide enough. It wasn’t. A little quality time with a sanding attachment in my drill followed up by some more quality time with a file fixed that.

IMG_4419 by jhsitton, on Flickr

I checked the other side, and sure enough, there was interference on the right as well.

IMG_4419 by jhsitton, on Flickr

This time the file alone did the trick.


John

Post 423

Windshield Part 1

The past couple of weeks I’ve been preparing my windshield for installation.

I purchased the stainless steel inserts from Whitby, and so started by taking the lower portion of the windshield frame off the glass to install them. Inside each lower corner is a brass stiffener with two screws securing each leg to the chrome.

IMG_4798 by jhsitton, on Flickr

Using the brass side inserts to hold the screws, I sanded each one to 0.24” - enough to secure the stiffener but not enough to dimple the rubber around the glass.

IMG_4795 by jhsitton, on Flickr

IMG_4795 by jhsitton, on Flickr

After getting the stiffener screws adjusted, I test fit the Whitby inserts. I found that the top screw (1) was drilled slightly higher than the hole on the windshield post, and (2) was not quite long enough to “bite” into the insert. So I took the Whitby inserts out and replaced the brass ones…you know what’s coming, but more on that later.

After reassembling the windshield frame, I test fit the side posts. There was significant mismatch at the top.

IMG_4807 by jhsitton, on Flickr

IMG_4807 by jhsitton, on Flickr

I wrapped the leg of the side post in some cloth towel, clamped it in my vise, and GENTLY twisted the post with a crescent wrench; I wrapped some more cloth between the wrench and post. [Emphasis added] Once I got the top end close to matching the windshield frame it was time to see how it fit on the car.


John

Post 424

Windshield Part 2

Last week CraigS came over to help me test fit the windshield to the car. We found that slots cut by F5 were fine on the inboard side, but had to be widened on the outboard side. The slots also needed to be lengthened both fore and aft, primarily the latter.

We must have had that windshield in and out 20 times, trimming the right side post, trimming it again, adding a washer to this post, adding two washers to that post, GENTLY bending the lower half of the post to point more inboard, GENTLY twisting the post arm to get the top to line up, etc.

PRO TIP #1: Drill the windshield post holes 27/64” diameter and tap each to accept the 1/2”-13 bolt. After you’re happy with the fit, then put a nut on the back side of the bolt to secure the post. This makes test fitting MUCH MUCH easier. [Emphasis added]

When we were reasonably happy with how the posts were fitting, we took the posts off the windshield, bolted them to the car and laid the windshield into place. Surprise, surprise, the windshield was 1/4” wider than the posts. So back out with the posts, add a couple of washers, back in with the posts, test the windshield, etc.

PRO TIP #2: If the rubber gasket at the bottom of the windshield frame has daylight under it anywhere, that indicates that your posts are too close together. It’ll lay evenly and provide a good seal when you’re close.

PRO TIP #3: Pay attention to the gap between the body and the windshield post side. As you tighten the 1/2” bolts, this gap should stay the same. If the gap changes, stop, figure out what’s not right, and correct it. The same goes for when you put the nuts on the bolts.

Then just as Craig and I were ready to tighten the 1/2” post mounting screws I stripped the top screw hole on the brass. So we called that a day.


John

Post 425

Windshield Part 3

After stripping the brass insert, I went to work modifying the Whitby inserts so that they fit correctly. I cut each Whitby insert in two just above the second top-most screw. The kerf of the Dremel wheel gave just enough room to slide the top part of the insert down so that the screw holes lined up. I also purchased some longer screws and cut them down to size. With that done, I reassembled the posts onto the windshield.

Then with Craig’s help, we test fit the windshield another half dozen or so times. We set the angle of the windshield such that the measurement from the top inner edge of the door frame behind the door to the center of the top-most screw in the windshield post is 27”. We used a paint stick to provide temporary spacing under the bottom seal to ensure the bottom corners of the windshield frame didn't touch the body. We used regular nuts to secure the windshield; for several of the bolts there just wasn’t enough room to fit a nyloc nut due to frame interference.

Finally, success.

IMG_4828 by jhsitton, on Flickr

This project took some doing; we must have test fit the windshield two dozen times or more to get the spacing and angles right.


John

P.S. Special thanks to Ron, a.k.a. picah, for his detailed windshield installation description (posts #315 & #316 https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...build-log.html)

NOTE: The F5-provided windshield post trim rings take a 7/64” pilot hole for the mounting screw.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Flickr

Another recommendation is throw away the lock nuts FFR supplies and get 8 regular nuts. This way you can run them on the bolts by hand and only need a wrench for the last turn or two. Use one nut per bolt for all your many trial fittings. Once it's final, run another nut on as a jam nut.
Better yet drill and tap the arms to 1/2"-13 and no nuts are necessary. I always assemble the arms to the windshield frame by beginning with the top screw and putting just a turn or turn and a half on it (not tight, or even snug) then working down doing the same with the other 3. Once they are all threaded go top to bottom making them just barely snug then repeat the process in 1/8 turn increments to make them all tight. Twenty plus windshields and I've never stripped the brass---maybe I've been lucky. Also be aware that the brass insert can be moved upward or down in the channel place the arms in a better relationship with the windshield frame that can often help to get the top curve to match better. You ABSOLUTELY MUST SHIM between the arms and chassis to take up the gap between the frame mounts and arms otherwise the glass will be stressed and almost guarantee an eventual crack. Most times (not always, but most) you can install the assembly with the driver's side arm directly to the chassis and shim on the more easily accessed passenger side.

Good luck!

Jeff
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Windshield post

Good advice ďwalk awayĒ Then go to this forum and get good advice. Thanks for the instructions and mostly the pictures. They showed exactly what Iím fighting with at the top of the windshield. Iím working with it on a table not in the car yet. I do have the Whitby inserts because stripped hole on first attempt install. Iíll try a little more bending (with care) and longer screws. And now I know what the grove down the inside of the post is for.
Thanks for your help. Iím on my way out to try again Iíll let you know how things went.
One more thing I donít know how to do pictures 🤷*♂️
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Windshield post

Things went from bad to worse. Drive side post just cracked at top hole. Anyone know where I can get a new one? Iíve worked it to much brass only moves so many times and it cracks. Canít believe I can build this car all the way to the windshield and everything falls apart. Time to not only walk away but Iíd better go on vacation.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 05:08 PM
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Here is a link to what I had to do to mine.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...y-journey.html

I did the twist to my windshield legs just below the body line. The legs are chrome covered brass and bend easier than I thought so I recommend a little at a time and a test fit after each bend. I was able to use two large adjustable jaw wrenches to get this done.

Hope some of this helps.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40kid View Post
Things went from bad to worse. Drive side post just cracked at top hole.
The post itself cracked?..Well that's a first..That, or it's actually the chrome plating that cracked. It isn't the highest quality chrome plating. (China)
If that's the case, you could put out a "wanted to buy" on the forum classifieds, or have it re-chromed.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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It snapped across the top hole. Iíd send a picture if I could find out how to. I have a lookout on classified and even talked to FFR about a new one. Several months if at all. Time to get the torch and brass rods out and go after it after I get the Crome and nickel off it.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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312ED29B-B9BE-4CB8-A423-5747283DD8C3.jpg


Do you just live with this gap on the upper corner?

Last edited by 40kid; 10-10-2019 at 03:11 PM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 12:15 AM
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No, I couldn't live with a gap like that.
I guess that's why they make torches and chrome shops.
I've seen some of the legs on e-Bay before just by themselves, but they can get a bit pricey....
Best of luck with this issue.
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