dash placement and holes - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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dash placement and holes

the top curve of the dash does not line up with the curved frame behind it.
should the middle of the dash be flush with the 3/4" tube, leaving the sides of the dash below the frame, or should the sides be flush, leaving the dash above the frame in the middle?
also any recs on where and how much to bend the sides of the dash forward towards the engine bay?

any recs on additional holes to drill in addition to the factory laser cut holes?
i have a heater, but not running any seat warmers, wipers, push button ignition, or a/c.
i figure i'll need indicators for R/L blinker, high beams, but wanted to hear recs on additional switches/holes that would be helpful (manual fan switch, etc)

thanks in advance.


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 01:21 PM
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The top of the dash does not line up with the support bar, as you know. But, it pretty well matches the underside of the body. You can't really install the dash until the body is on.

Extra holes all depend on what you want over "stock". Extra gauges, switches, etc, are your choice. I never found much use for a manual fan switch. But I found a power port to be really handy.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
The top of the dash does not line up with the support bar, as you know. But, it pretty well matches the underside of the body. You can't really install the dash until the body is on.

Extra holes all depend on what you want over "stock". Extra gauges, switches, etc, are your choice. I never found much use for a manual fan switch. But I found a power port to be really handy.
thanks bob
i'm trying to mount brackets on the back of the dash so I can attach it without visible screws through the dash. I'd need to mount these brackets before covering the face of the dash so the screw/rivet holes can be covered by the leather/vinyl. maybe i'll put the body on and see how the dash lines up with the under side of it.
regarding extra holes, I was planning on putting USB charging ports on the underside of the dash, leaving the face looking clean. I'm just trying to figure out if others found certain switches to be needed/necessary.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 10:11 PM
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I'm using the dash support. It places it correctly. Theress frame showing on the top center of the dashboard. So, center of dash is slightly below the top of the frame. Maybe 1/4" below.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-05-2019, 01:40 PM
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You need to place the dash so that you can see 3/16 in of hoop at the R&L corners. If you place it even with the corners the body will sit on top of the dash at the radius and really messes with making the doors fit...da Bat
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have problems with the hoop frame interfering with the speedo/ tach hole just left of the steering column? In order to get the bezel ring on the back, I'd need to drop the dash a bit. Currently the dash is sitting at the recommended 3/16" above the frame at the corners
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
You need to place the dash so that you can see 3/16 in of hoop at the R&L corners. If you place it even with the corners the body will sit on top of the dash at the radius and really messes with making the doors fit...da Bat
Just to be clear, you said the frame should show 3/16" BEHIND the dash at the corners, correct? Manual shows the dash sitting 3/16"ABOVE frame at the corners

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Tremec T5Z
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RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 07:56 PM
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I mounted my dash with the center even with the dash hoop and the ends 3/16" below the hoop and my speedo just barely contacts the underside of the hoop.
JR

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Mocking up dash. I have dash positioned so 3/16" frame showing behind dash at the corners. This leaves about 3/16"to 1/4" showing at the center. Anyone have recommendations on placement of the gauges? I saw some recommend switching speedo and tach so speedo is to the left for better visibility. Wasn't sure if there are any similar recs for the smaller gauges. I have the FF GPS speedo. Appears there are indicator lights on the speedo. So I probably don't need to install extra indicators in the dash, right?
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 09:08 PM
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Correct, there are indicator lights in the speedo.
JR


Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 09:17 PM
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The only recommendation I use for the small gauges is figure which are the most important. For me that is water temp and oil pressure. Then sit in the car and look forward as if driving and then take a quick glance over at the small gauges. Figure which of them are the easiest to see in that quick glance away from the road. Usually that will be the top line closest to the wheel working away from the wheel and then the lower line. In a way this idea is what guides the usual 'competition' layout. Tach where yours is, OP and H2o temp where your speedo is. The speedo and all the other gauges are way less important. If you want to be really nuts like me, install your tach rotated so your shift point has the needle straight up. No looking at a needle and matching it to numbers around the dial-just look at the needle angle.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 10:43 AM
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With the speedo to the left of the wheel like you show in your photo you'll find that the actual usable portion of it as well as the indicator lights will be difficult to see so I recommend that you swap it to where you have the tach. With the tach on the left the important part (i.e. 3-6,000) is reasonably visible through the wheel. For the smaller gauges usually put the 3 engine related ones across the top with the clock fuel level below.

Jeff
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
With the speedo to the left of the wheel like you show in your photo you'll find that the actual usable portion of it as well as the indicator lights will be difficult to see so I recommend that you swap it to where you have the tach. With the tach on the left the important part (i.e. 3-6,000) is reasonably visible through the wheel. For the smaller gauges usually put the 3 engine related ones across the top with the clock fuel level below.

Jeff
Will have to try that when I change my gauges. Right now I don't use the speedo much & have learned to equate the RPM/Gear in use to speed.

Agree on the function gauges. My top row is Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, Coolant Temperature. Lower two are Fuel then Volts.


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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
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Will have to try that when I change my gauges. Right now I don't use the speedo much & have learned to equate the RPM/Gear in use to speed.
I'm kind of the opposite and don't really look at the tach much. If I'm twisting it's tail I just keep my foot in it until the rev limiter hits at 6250 then shift!

Jeff
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