SBF Intake Manifold Gaskets - F&R - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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SBF Intake Manifold Gaskets - F&R

New motor is in the car, even lined up the flywheel on the first try, did not even have to move it. Front of motor all on, now to the top.

Intake manifold gaskets - Many simply do not use the Front & rear cork strips, just putting down a very thick bead, and let that seal up.

What has worked best for you?

Many thanks in advance,

Dan


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 05:01 PM
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I used a FelPro 1250s3 steel core gasket for my 351w.
Please use a Steal Core, I previously installed a 1250 (non steel core) and it shrunk / cracked in a like a month.

Like you I saw that many recommended to use a thick bead. I did that on the 1250. No issue with the china wall, but I think it's messy, more difficult to remove afterwards and have a risk of having some RTV going into the valley.

On the 1250s3 I installed recently, I did use the cork strips but added a very thin layer of RTV just to make sure it doesn't move.
So far, several hundred miles and it's perfect.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 05:29 PM
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I've never used the cork gaskets, BUT be sure you use a thick enough bead of RTV.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 07:14 PM
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Not just any "RTV" but Permatex "The Right Stuff"
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
Not just any "RTV" but Permatex "The Right Stuff"
AGREED. Because not all RTV's are oil and gas resistant.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 09:55 PM
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RTV is like porridge - it has to be juuuuust right. If you put too much on, it will spooge out into the engine, and clog things up. Not enough, and you'll get an oil leak.

With the gaskets in place but no RTV, drop the manifold in place. Then you can see just how much goo you really need.

I also put a light smear around the water ports on both sides of the gasket, and a little extra dab in each corner.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Will be installing the manifold tonight.

Using the L & Right gaskets, will use Ultra black for the beads.

For the ports, I usually make sure I have ample sealant around the water passages, and just a light film to seal intake ports.

Seems to be the common method?

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Last edited by Chepsk8; 09-25-2019 at 01:21 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 01:18 PM
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The first time I had my intake off I did what Bob suggests, a dry fit trial. I was surprised to see there was only about a 1/16 inch gap under the front and rear. So not a lot of sealer needed.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 02:38 PM
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I never put sealant around the intake ports.

Also, get a couple of 5/16" x 3" bolts. Cut the heads off, and cut a screwdriver slot in the end. Put them in a couple of the bolt holes. Use them as guides to drop the manifold exactly in place the first time. Moving the manifold around while you find the bolt holes messes up the sealant.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 03:17 PM
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The bolt trick is actually a good thing to do, it will help to guide the manifold down.

I also used some Gasgacinch cement to hold the gasket in place.
It's not supposed to be necessary but I also put a very thin layer of RTV around the water and gas ports, I don't really trust these PrintoSeal gaskets.

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