Clutch Cable adjustment question - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Cable adjustment question

mk4 just under 2k miles.
complete kit supplied adjustable clutch cable, with firewall adjuster. Willwood pedal box, quick time bell, ram clutch, tko 600.

I havent had to adjust the cable since I built the car, however a couple weeks ago the cable stretched and I had some trouble shifting gears and the pedal was real loose. So I moved out the firewall adjuster some, and made a small adjustment on the cable end down at the clutch fork. I achieved the dimes width space on the plastic flange.after that all was good for about 50-75 more miles or so. Yesterday I took a ride and noticed that I was having trouble shifting again, I can shift every gear but it feels a little clunky. I checked the tension on the cable again and there was alot more slack at the plastic flange again. could the cable have stretched again, that quickly? I now have the adjuster almost all the way out. I did check the fork position and it appears to be at the right distance in the opening as per the instructions when i installed it. Do you guys think that the cable stretched a second time? is this normal?
thanks for your input.



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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:11 PM
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it is possible that the clutch cable stretched again, but that shouldn't continue. Do you have a lock nut or jam nut against the adjustment nut located at the clutch fork? Maybe your clutch cable adjustment nut is unthreading slightly.


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Last edited by DadofThree; 09-16-2019 at 07:18 PM.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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I will have to double check that it has a jam nut however the nut thats on there was tight yesterday when I checked it. I just find it strange that after almost 2,000 miles and now it has loosened up twice in a month


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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:52 PM
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If the adjuster hasnít backed off then something is going wrong. Most likely cause is the cable and I would take it off and check it out. Does the position of the clutch fork look right? I have seen a clutch fork fail.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 09:10 AM
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Do yourself a favor, buy another Ford Racing cable and replace it.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 11:51 AM
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Call Forte or order this from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...2/applications

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 12:47 PM
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If you have not done so check it is not getting hot from the headers. Look at the plastic casing and make sure it is not deforming, crushing.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm B View Post
If the adjuster hasnít backed off then something is going wrong. Most likely cause is the cable and I would take it off and check it out. Does the position of the clutch fork look right? I have seen a clutch fork fail.

HTH

Norm
hey Norm,
the position of the clutch fork looks correct. its positioned where its supposed to be in the slot. I also bought the ford racing fork and TOB when I built the car.


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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Call Forte or order this from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...2/applications
Hey Craig

my mk4 is about 7 years old, do you have any idea if the cable i got with the complete kit was a ford performance cable or just a knock off? I have read that Ford cables are the best choice.


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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:42 PM
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Ford cables are the best choice.

And if you call Mike Forte,he sells 2 cables for 50 bucks +/-.

Then, after you install one of the cables, you will have a spare, and we all know that you will never need any part if you have a spare siting on a shelf.

Derald.

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 07:16 PM
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But...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Derald Rice View Post
Ford cables are the best choice.

And if you call Mike Forte,he sells 2 cables for 50 bucks +/-.

Then, after you install one of the cables, you will have a spare, and we all know that you will never need any part if you have a spare siting on a shelf.

Derald.
When, and if, you eventually do need a new one, you forget the spare (or can't find it) and buy a new one, then find the original "spare" behind a box on a shelf.

Regards, Rick.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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so i just ordered m7553-c302 which is made for the 79-95 mustang. I looked at m7553-e302 and that appears to be for a 99-04 mustang. I work for an auto parts store and we sell the bbk clutch kits in store. they are nice but come with cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster and i dont need all that for $109. I did open both boxes and measured the cables. the kit for the 99-04 cable was 25" total length and the 79-95 was 20'' total length. I think the shorter one is the length I need. When I get the cable i will post my results.
thanks guys


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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 11:41 AM
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I have no idea what FFR supplied. My old MkII is on it's third cable in 12 yrs. This one is a Ford cable and it is obviously smoother than the others. I am glad you had the ability to measure them. I had both the 'c' and the 'e' in my wish list at Summit and wasn't sure of the difference. Thanks for that info. I will save it for sure.
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 11:23 PM
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Some cables tend to break up by the quadrant. Can you look up in there and inspect? After mine was in the car, i tried to sand the sharp edges of the two pieces that make the walls of the groove in the quadrant. If the cable is not lined up perfectly, the sharp square edges will rub on the strands, causing a few at a time to break. The cable will probably stretch as a result, then eventually break.
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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couple of small observations.
1) installed to new cable last night. it is a great fit length wise and I routed it the exact same way I did the old ffr cable. and also couldnt believe how much less effort it takes to push the pedal in. I took it for a drive last night and shifted in and out of gears very nicely.

2) I was able to achieve the dimes width space between the white plastic flange and the firewall adjuster by pulling out the cable away from the firewall. the only downside is at the fork side the adjustment is at its end and at the firewall the adjuster is very close to being all the way out also. but if nothing stretches than im good.

one thing I noticed is while driving, as i up shift into different gears the rpm seems to go up in between shifts, and to idle down I have to tap the gas pedal, then all is fine. is this clutch related? accelerator cable seems fine, no binding anywhere. carbed engine no other issues with it

thanks guys


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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luey2009 View Post
2) I was able to achieve the dimes width space between the white plastic flange and the firewall adjuster by pulling out the cable away from the firewall. the only downside is at the fork side the adjustment is at its end and at the firewall the adjuster is very close to being all the way out also. but if nothing stretches than im good.
thanks guys
Mike Forte makes a spacer that will put your firewall adjuster back into its normal range of adjustment.
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 11:08 PM
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If tapping the gas pedal brings the high idle down and nothing is binding then check your return springs on the carb. You should have two springs with enough tension so this does not happen. Glad the Ford Racing cables work nice for you. I put a little grease on the cable in the quadrant area.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 07:55 AM
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The OEM Ford 89-93 Mustang clutch cable, (which in my personal opinion, is the best one), does not have any adjustment on the fork end. The cars had an automatic adjuster as part of the stock quadrant, so it was not required. If you have a cable that has the adjustment on the fork end, it is not the same one.

Ford Performance sells an adjustable one, with a Ford part number, but that is not the same as the original one. They may have gotten better, but they had a completely different inner housing construction, and cable, similar to the Chinese knock offs.

Curious, did your old cable show any signs of fatigue, as far as any frayed threads?
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
The OEM Ford 89-93 Mustang clutch cable, (which in my personal opinion, is the best one), does not have any adjustment on the fork end. The cars had an automatic adjuster as part of the stock quadrant, so it was not required. If you have a cable that has the adjustment on the fork end, it is not the same one.

Ford Performance sells an adjustable one, with a Ford part number, but that is not the same as the original one. They may have gotten better, but they had a completely different inner housing construction, and cable, similar to the Chinese knock offs.

Curious, did your old cable show any signs of fatigue, as far as any frayed threads?
ac bill,
I did buy the ford racing performance cable with the adjustable fork end. m7553c302. it looks very similar to the one i pulled out of the car from the complete kit. the old cable did not show any signs of stretch but i guess it would be hard to tell unless i measure the length. no signs of fraying either.


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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RET_COP View Post
If tapping the gas pedal brings the high idle down and nothing is binding then check your return springs on the carb. You should have two springs with enough tension so this does not happen. Glad the Ford Racing cables work nice for you. I put a little grease on the cable in the quadrant area.
yes the idle does go back to normal if i tap the pedal. I actually only have one return spring on the carb, I will add the second tonight. never had an issue with the one on it but 2 is safer.
I just wanted to get your thoughts on the idle not coming down between shifts, being related to or not related to the clutch cable adjustment.

any experiences anyone?
i will add the return spring and test drive the car tonight.
thanks again


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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 04:00 PM
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One thing to check is where the throttle cable comes into the footbox (inside the car). If there is much of an angle from entry to the pedal, the cable will saw a slot in the ferrule and then can start to stick.

I upgraded to a Lokar cable and like it much better.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 05:26 PM
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Clutch cable Maint.

A simple maintenance trick for these cables is to remove it completely from the car, hang it up vertically and wash it down internally with your favorite cleaner - I personally use a rather expensive electronics cleaner -Tri-flo-

Then lub with a lithium/Teflon grease . . . No issues with the cable in 18 years.
Cable slides like a hot knife thru butter.

This is definitely one of the items on my yearly nut-n-bolt sessions.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 05:10 PM
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I would check your pedal mechanism as well.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 05:52 PM
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The RPMs staying up between shifts might be a result of a combination of carb tune and vacuum advance. Try disconnecting the vacuum advance (if you have one) and plugging the line to see if that changes anything.

HTH
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 07:25 PM
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The lower end of the cable has the long threaded section that goes through the clutch arm. DO NOT tighten the nut/jam nut so tight that the cable can't move a little in the fork as it moves to release the clutch plate. If you do, the cable will bend with the arm arc and eventually wear the cable out from bending. It takes about 20K miles. Ask me how I know.

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_M View Post
The lower end of the cable has the long threaded section that goes through the clutch arm. DO NOT tighten the nut/jam nut so tight that the cable can't move a little in the fork as it moves to release the clutch plate. If you do, the cable will bend with the arm arc and eventually wear the cable out from bending. It takes about 20K miles. Ask me how I know.

Greg
Thanks Greg, im gonna loosen that jam nut tonight since I did tighten it snug.

couple notes since driving it with the new cable.
- the idle is perfect again after i doubled the return spring up.
- the clutch pedal feels way smoother with the new cable and less resistance.

I have the cable slack adjusted so you pull on the firewall end and achieve a dimes with of space. I think it still too tight however because as you shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, as you let off the clutch pedal it shifts real snappy. im sure im not explaining it right. in other words, I just barely let up on the pedal and it jerks into the next gear. to me that seems like a matter of loosening up the cable?
any thoughts?


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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:01 AM
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I am trying to figure out the best cable too. I got this from the Ford Performance website.

M-7553-E302 1996-2004 Mustang
M-7553-C302 1982-1995 Mustang

I suspect the usable cable strand sticking out of the housings are almost the same, but one housing is a little bit different length to best get from the dash to the bellhousing on either a 82-95 or a 96-2004. I like the way my current cable fits, so I think I would like to get one with the same dimensions if possible.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:15 PM
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Am running Forte's cable, don't remember the part number. At 11,000 miles wanted to rasie the pedal engagement point a little more from the floor.

Adjustment seems to go well & pedal is more comfortable.

Found something while testing that I may have not noticed before or was not happening before.

If I hit the throttle about 2/3 3/4 down in 4th at 2200 rpm the tach will jump about 800 RPM then drop to the steady point for the new road speed.

The lower gears 1/2/3 seem to be OK

Is this slippage normal or do I need to try to adjust it out. Clutch is a Center Force single plate.


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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I am trying to figure out the best cable too. I got this from the Ford Performance website.

M-7553-E302 1996-2004 Mustang
M-7553-C302 1982-1995 Mustang

I suspect the usable cable strand sticking out of the housings are almost the same, but one housing is a little bit different length to best get from the dash to the bellhousing on either a 82-95 or a 96-2004. I like the way my current cable fits, so I think I would like to get one with the same dimensions if possible.
I work at an auto parts store and we stock both of the bbk cable kits here. They are almost identical to the ford racing cables. I was able to compare both of those cables the only difference is the length. the 96-04 cable was 13" longer that the 79-95 cable. I have a 302 with a tko trans and the shorter cable was the right length for me. the longer one would be to long for the way I routed my cable.


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Originally Posted by teesalmon View Post
I am trying to figure out the best cable too. I got this from the Ford Performance website.

M-7553-E302 1996-2004 Mustang
M-7553-C302 1982-1995 Mustang

I suspect the usable cable strand sticking out of the housings are almost the same, but one housing is a little bit different length to best get from the dash to the bellhousing on either a 82-95 or a 96-2004. I like the way my current cable fits, so I think I would like to get one with the same dimensions if possible.
The best Original Ford, Teflon lined, (with no adjuster) cable, was part # E4ZZ-7K553-A if you can find one..
You do need a firewall adjuster, or the original Ford self adjusting quadrant set up, to use it.

Some of the Mustang guys swear the Maximum Motorsport cable is the next best thing to the original OEM one, and it is made by the same manufacture.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...2-04-P897.aspx
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