Need a door latch solution - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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  • 1 Post By JKleiner
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Need a door latch solution

I track my MKII regularly. The instructors that I have had have gotten me to a point where I am reasonably quick around the tracks. One down side is the chassis flex which results from running hard causes the doors to pop open regularly in the corners. It has gotten to point where I have wired the doors closed but surely someone has come up with an ingenious way to rectify the problem. Any detailed suggestions would be appreciated by myself and the corner workers who freak out when my doors are open.

tim


\Dart 363, Brodix/K Black heads, Levy t-5, 3.73, Imola Red/White Stripes, 5-link, Mark II, FFR3615
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 05:23 PM
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Before you go any farther be sure that you aren't just engaging the first "step" on the latch striker. This just catches a groove while the real, full catch allows the plunger to sink all the way into the hole in the wedge shaped striker. Once fully engaged it's unlikely that the door would come open---any flex would cause it to bind, not release, however if you're only catching on the first step it would disengage easily. If that's indeed what's happening some tweaks and adjustments should get your doors latching properly.

Good luck,
Jeff

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 06:19 PM
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Same thing happened to my gen2. Bought new latches from factory five and the passenger side still let loose, and yes they are "FULLY engaged. Played around with the alignment, deepened the cut on the striker, vasolined them and they're doing much better. Can't figure out how they open with the latch working properly 100%, guess it's one of lifes mysteries.)
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Before you go any farther be sure that you aren't just engaging the first "step" on the latch striker. This just catches a groove while the real, full catch allows the plunger to sink all the way into the hole in the wedge shaped striker. Once fully engaged it's unlikely that the door would come open---any flex would cause it to bind, not release, however if you're only catching on the first step it would disengage easily. If that's indeed what's happening some tweaks and adjustments should get your doors latching properly.

Good luck,
Jeff
I have to agree with Jeff. You might also want to try installing a set screw and possibly a bigger pivot rod before you replace the hinges. I copied this from Russ Thompson twenty years ago and my hinges are still tight after 37,000 miles of door slamming. I have a pair of spare hinges sitting on the shelf but so far so good.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 11:57 AM
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I had that exact problem, no door latch adjustment or fix would work. Too much flex.

Big proper solution was adding the chassis braces across the door area that stopped the flexing, and made the car safer.

Door solution was to remove all latching, and replace with a simple pin and plate.
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File Type: jpg P1010028.jpg (248.0 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg Door Bars 1.jpg (243.0 KB, 42 views)

FFR5148K MkII Roadster, Engine #4 - 331 CI 465 HP w/ FITECH Fuel Injection, 3-link, disc brakes, SN95 Cobra Front brakes, FR500 17" Wheels. Electric steering from Saturn VUE. QA1 Double Adjust shocks on all corners. Still mostly Gel-Coat Grey! Now with roll cage and more track stuff, wrecked, beaten, blown-up, man-handled, cut up, butchered, Freaky body mods, sat on by HOOTERS girls, still barely street legal.

Last edited by Chepsk8; 09-15-2019 at 01:05 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 12:26 PM
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Im diggin that x-brace. Nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chepsk8 View Post
I had that exact problem, no door latch adjustment or fix would work. Too much flex.

Big proper solution was adding the braces that stopped the flexing, and made the car safer.

Door solution was to remove all latching, and replace with a simple pin and plate.

FFR4462K MKII
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 12:56 PM
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I’m diggin that x-brace. Nice.
The idea came from another member here, over 9 years ago, Mike Noyes. Solved all flex problems, made the chassis work, car since has handled and braked MUCH better. And safer! All made from 2" race -spec tubing. Had to pull out interior, and body off helps. Minor rear aluminum mods, but simple.

I have a ton of pics on my home computer if anyone is interested. Yes, access is harder, but safety and function out weigh it in my opinion

You're not too far away. If you are serious, come down and check it out.
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FFR5148K MkII Roadster, Engine #4 - 331 CI 465 HP w/ FITECH Fuel Injection, 3-link, disc brakes, SN95 Cobra Front brakes, FR500 17" Wheels. Electric steering from Saturn VUE. QA1 Double Adjust shocks on all corners. Still mostly Gel-Coat Grey! Now with roll cage and more track stuff, wrecked, beaten, blown-up, man-handled, cut up, butchered, Freaky body mods, sat on by HOOTERS girls, still barely street legal.

Last edited by Chepsk8; 09-15-2019 at 02:21 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Chepsk8: Both of your pictures are great solutions, I only wish I had the skills to construct the x-frames. I will attempt the pin solution.

At the LCS, the Traveler spoke to me about the chassis flex issue which he confirmed with FFR. Apparently they might collaborate on a bracing solution for the transmission tunnel. Also the vendor with the high-tech builds that were at the show also produce some custom latches which would mitigate the issue - but I was told they cost $350 each (I have not confirmed that price).

If all else fail, I can do what I've seen a couple of times with FFR's at track days, people just take the doors off.

When I built the car, I didn't even know track days existed or that I would have such an interest - should'a could'a would's built a spec racer instead.

tim

\Dart 363, Brodix/K Black heads, Levy t-5, 3.73, Imola Red/White Stripes, 5-link, Mark II, FFR3615
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Galla4 View Post
Chepsk8: Both of your pictures are great solutions, I only wish I had the skills to construct the x-frames. I will attempt the pin solution.

tim
I actually mocked up the braces with pvc pipe, and brought it to a shop that did major work including chassis/roll cage, and they did the actual fab of the braces.

I did the pin.

No more issues, and a better. safer car
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FFR5148K MkII Roadster, Engine #4 - 331 CI 465 HP w/ FITECH Fuel Injection, 3-link, disc brakes, SN95 Cobra Front brakes, FR500 17" Wheels. Electric steering from Saturn VUE. QA1 Double Adjust shocks on all corners. Still mostly Gel-Coat Grey! Now with roll cage and more track stuff, wrecked, beaten, blown-up, man-handled, cut up, butchered, Freaky body mods, sat on by HOOTERS girls, still barely street legal.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 10:22 PM
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Tim:

Not sure this is what you are looking for but take at look at the mod I used (stolen from another forum builder, who I credit) to get a better latch system

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...build-log.html

go to page 12, starting at post 354

These gator latches have a very secure closure mechanism and may be of value. The guy who developed this mod retrofitted them to a completed and painted car. It was easier for me doing it during the build process but it can be done on a completed car.as he demonstrates with a series of youtube videos.

Hope this is of some help

Good luck

Ron

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