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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Loose steering wheel boss

Hi: I know this has been discussed before but I am going to start it all over again. I keep getting some play between the steering wheel and the upper shaft. If I torque down the steering wheel hex bolt I can remove it but it keeps coming back every 4 or five drives. Is it time to lock tite that bolt or is it just the boss getting worked out by the steel shaft and when will it stop? Is the bolt backing itself out?

Thanks

Steve

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 04:50 PM
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Had a similar problem, the steering wheel boss would bottom out before it could take a set to the tapper of the flats on steering shaft. Solution was to shim the flats of the shaft under the boss. An old feeler gauge donated one of its .007 -.010 fingers for this purpose and then the flats engaged so that the nut would be able to get a bite onto the outside flat of the boss. No problems since, and it sets so tight that I had to drill the boss so that I can get a steering wheel puller into it when I take off the wheel.

I think it must be a common problem with aftermarket steering wheel hubs. I have a 89 Saleen Mustang with a motolita hub that was far worse than the FFR hub.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Derald Rice View Post
Had a similar problem, the steering wheel boss would bottom out before it could take a set to the tapper of the flats on steering shaft. Solution was to shim the flats of the shaft under the boss. An old feeler gauge donated one of its .007 -.010 fingers for this purpose and then the flats engaged so that the nut would be able to get a bite onto the outside flat of the boss. No problems since, and it sets so tight that I had to drill the boss so that I can get a steering wheel puller into it when I take off the wheel.

I think it must be a common problem with aftermarket steering wheel hubs. I have a 89 Saleen Mustang with a motolita hub that was far worse than the FFR hub.

Derald.
Thanks Derald. Not sure I have the same issue. Once I torque it down it is nice and tight with no play. Drive for a few times and it seems to be loose again.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 09:34 PM
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On mine I needed to get a washer w/ a larger ID. The hub would slide down on the tapers so the shoulders of the shaft were just above the shoulder of the hub. So the bolt was tightening against the shaft but not against the hub. This was only maybe .010" but enough the wheel would feel OK until used a bit. I got a flat washer and hogged out the inside w/ a carbide bit.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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On mine I needed to get a washer w/ a larger ID. The hub would slide down on the tapers so the shoulders of the shaft were just above the shoulder of the hub. So the bolt was tightening against the shaft but not against the hub. This was only maybe .010" but enough the wheel would feel OK until used a bit. I got a flat washer and hogged out the inside w/ a carbide bit.
OK thanks. Having a bit of a hard time picturing what you are suggesting. By hub you mean the boss right? So does the washer go between the bolt head and the boss? I do already have a washer there.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Slord View Post
OK thanks. Having a bit of a hard time picturing what you are suggesting. By hub you mean the boss right? So does the washer go between the bolt head and the boss? I do already have a washer there.
Yes, boss. Yes you have a washer there but it's hole size is close to that of the bolt shank. My thinking is that the aluminum is relatively soft so it gets somewhat self machined and the hole gets larger. Mine had been off and one quite a few times. Yours may have been machined a few thousandths of an inch too deep. So the boss slides a little further down on the shaft and the end of the shaft is either flush or just a tiny bit above the boss surface. I made a washer w/ the hole size large enough to slide on the shaft and stacked the original on top of it. This is a lot of conjecture based on what happened to mine and may not apply to you but it is easy to remove the bolt and washer and feel the end of the shaft. It should be maybe 1/16 inch down below the surface of the boss.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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OK will check. Thanks
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Yes, boss. Yes you have a washer there but it's hole size is close to that of the bolt shank. My thinking is that the aluminum is relatively soft so it gets somewhat self machined and the hole gets larger. Mine had been off and one quite a few times. Yours may have been machined a few thousandths of an inch too deep. So the boss slides a little further down on the shaft and the end of the shaft is either flush or just a tiny bit above the boss surface. I made a washer w/ the hole size large enough to slide on the shaft and stacked the original on top of it. This is a lot of conjecture based on what happened to mine and may not apply to you but it is easy to remove the bolt and washer and feel the end of the shaft. It should be maybe 1/16 inch down below the surface of the boss.
Yes the shaft is contacting the boss and there is no more adjustment there. So with the boss touching the end of the shaft there is still some play. Seems to me the taper in the boss must be too large now. I think when I crank the bolt down the friction between the underside of the boss hole and the top of the steering shaft removes play but that the bolt must back out a bit after use and allow play. Maybe I need to shim the shaft taper? Or drill and tap a grub screw in from the side of the boss?
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