Trunk panels - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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  • 1 Post By Bob Cowan
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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I think this looks good. I could not get the fuel tank strap off properly. I could have if I really need too but it would not been very easy to put back. If I ever need to I can get it done. So I just bent the tabs I still need to clean that up.

I threaded the liscence plate wire through a piece of the frame to keep it out of the way of the panels.

I personally do not feel as though I need any space in the trunk so I left it Maybe one day I will change my mind.

I'm always careful but today the Cobra finally bit me. These aluminum panels are no joke. 7 stitches.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 11:16 PM
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When I installed most of my panels, I was taking Coumadin. That's when I learned to wear mechanics gloves for this sort of thing.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Bob Cowan;6065714]When I installed most of my panels, I was taking Coumadin. That's when I learned to wear mechanics gloves for this sort of thing.[/QUOTE

My son used my gloves for weeding. I could not find them. I had gloves on with no fingers. Lol no good. Always gloves always safety glasses. This time just the wrong kind.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:12 AM
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Panel Order

Looking great!!!

Just an FYI

Make sure to fasten the upper trunk floor before you permanently install the rear cockpit bulkhead. You will not be able to properly fasten the front of the upper trunk floor otherwise.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
Looking great!!!

Just an FYI

Make sure to fasten the upper trunk floor before you permanently install the rear cockpit bulkhead. You will not be able to properly fasten the front of the upper trunk floor otherwise.
Thank you. Yup I saw that. Thank you
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
Looking great!!!

Just an FYI

Make sure to fasten the upper trunk floor before you permanently install the rear cockpit bulkhead. You will not be able to properly fasten the front of the upper trunk floor otherwise.
Yeah, figured that out the hard way. Was able to make it work without pulling the cockpit bulkhead, but it would have been way easier without it in the way.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:35 PM
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Just a suggestion, but you are at a stage where you could still install additional storage above the gas tank. These trunks are so space limited, anything you can recover is worth the effort IMO. At the time I built mine, I had to come up with my own design. I recovered 5 inches of depth across almost 2/3 of the distance across the lower level.

I believe that Russ Thompson has a trunk storage box kit available, just not shown on his website. Something to consider before you finish up the trunk floor.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 05:01 PM
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Trunk

I did this.







Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan_C View Post
Just a suggestion, but you are at a stage where you could still install additional storage above the gas tank. These trunks are so space limited, anything you can recover is worth the effort IMO. At the time I built mine, I had to come up with my own design. I recovered 5 inches of depth across almost 2/3 of the distance across the lower level.

I believe that Russ Thompson has a trunk storage box kit available, just not shown on his website. Something to consider before you finish up the trunk floor.

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File Type: jpg Trunk Carpet.jpg (237.5 KB, 54 views)


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe one day. Right now I don't plan I doing anything that requires a trunk.

I have a normal size trunk on my mustang and I rearlly use it.

Pretty awesome cool mod with the battery!

Jason

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 07:51 PM
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Yikes. I sliced my knuckle open installing by front battery box. Superglued it closed. I want to make at shirt for my garage calling it "Bloody knuckles garage, where timelines and budgets don't exist"


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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 11:13 AM
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If you haven’t attached the sides of the tunnel covers, put in the bolts for the inner seat belts first. That’s one of the gotcha moments that can cause a headache by the head banging of frustration. There is no room for the nut. The bolthead is thin enough, but getting it in is impossible once the tunnel sides are in.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:03 PM
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If you haven’t attached the sides of the tunnel covers, put in the bolts for the inner seat belts first. That’s one of the gotcha moments that can cause a headache by the head banging of frustration. There is no room for the nut. The bolthead is thin enough, but getting it in is impossible once the tunnel sides are in.
Another option on that end that I read from Jeff and others is to drill a 1/2" hole through the tunnel aluminum using the inner belt bracket as a guide. Then run the bolt and washer through the drilled hole from inside the tunnel, securing with the nut inside the car. Tightening down the nut will collapse the aluminum to the bracket and the washer/bolt seal the hole against water intrusion.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:07 PM
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another victim

Quote:
Originally Posted by silver_pilate View Post
Another option on that end that I read from Jeff and others is to drill a 1/2" hole through the tunnel aluminum using the inner belt bracket as a guide. Then run the bolt and washer through the drilled hole from inside the tunnel, securing with the nut inside the car. Tightening down the nut will collapse the aluminum to the bracket and the washer/bolt seal the hole against water intrusion.
shoot...i guess i'm in the same boat. thanks for the insight on how to remedy this without removing the panel.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 02:40 PM
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You could always drill 1 1/4" holes to place the seat belt bolts and then fill the hole with the Ron Francis grommets. I did it this way to route my seat heater wires inside the tunnel. They come into the cockpit at the exact place where they won't get damaged. Many ways to address the issue.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 01:06 AM
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Yeah.. the kit doesn't come supplied with blood, sweat, and tears..The builder has to provide them..
Least you've got the blood part over with now..
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver_pilate View Post
Another option on that end that I read from Jeff and others is to drill a 1/2" hole through the tunnel aluminum using the inner belt bracket as a guide. Then run the bolt and washer through the drilled hole from inside the tunnel, securing with the nut inside the car. Tightening down the nut will collapse the aluminum to the bracket and the washer/bolt seal the hole against water intrusion.
Quote:
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shoot...i guess i'm in the same boat. thanks for the insight on how to remedy this without removing the panel.
That's also how the instruction manual says to do it. Works fine.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver_pilate View Post
Another option on that end that I read from Jeff and others is to drill a 1/2" hole through the tunnel aluminum using the inner belt bracket as a guide. Then run the bolt and washer through the drilled hole from inside the tunnel, securing with the nut inside the car. Tightening down the nut will collapse the aluminum to the bracket and the washer/bolt seal the hole against water intrusion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
shoot...i guess i'm in the same boat. thanks for the insight on how to remedy this without removing the panel.
That's also how the instruction manual says to do it. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/FFCars_2016/smilies/tango_face_smile.png[/IMG] Works fine.
Wait...there's an instruction book?!? 😮

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