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post #151 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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I see that the extra ports on the water pump and housing will need stoppers.
The upper port on the pump connects to the nipple on the thermostat housing via a molded hose. Walk into any auto parts store and tell them you need a bypass hose for a small block Ford---if they need for you to be more specific say it's for a 1990 Mustang with a 5.0 engine. If you are not using a heater the lower port on the pump can be capped.

Jeff
Last night I was researching and saw these. I'm going to the store on my break today.

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post #152 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Day 62

10 of 162 total hour

7-30-2019

It's been awhile since posted to this. To be honest the times are a estimate. I kinda lost track a little.

I started

1. Fuel regulator and filter. I need fitting to go from hard lines to flex.

Any one know exactly what I need I would appreciate some help here? So I no what I need to buy from the hardware store. I used the bigger fuel lines from ffr. To and return the same. The fitting from FFR on the preflared fuel line is a male. I'm wanting to go to 3/8 flex line. I went to the store a couple times. I just have not bought the right thing yet.

Then that will be done. I also want to go from a 2ft braided to 1 ft.

2. Drive shaft. It's in. Alignment will need to be done later.

Question:

I am sure I can figure it out I just have not had time. However just incase I will throw it out there.

There is a electrical terminal that is in the transmission tunnel off the harness.

There is a terminal on the the TKO 600. Seems like they should mate. They dont. Are they suppose to go together?


3. Side exhaust. I have a new design from what I can gather. I have header to ball joint to side exhaust. No issues with these. Anyone reading this you will need to find in the kit and or buy 2 1/2 in long, 3/8 in bolts. All the brackets move on the ball joints. You can position the side exhaust pretty much how you want.

I left the hangers off. I did not realize the pipes can hang there no problem while I test the engine. My alignment is not right I can see that so I did not put the hangers on.

Any one have the need for speed!
Jason

I have to say the header and pipe combo looks amazing! I dreamed about a car with side pipes since I was a kid. Love it!

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post #153 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 01:47 PM
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For your fuel line fittings, call Mark Reynolds at Breeze. He's got the parts you need, and can talk you through the setup.

The electrical connector in the transmission tunnel connects to the speed sensor on your transmission. IIRC the complete kit provides one based on the transmission you've selected. Or maybe you're trying to plug it in to the wrong connector on the transmission?

Congratulations on getting the side pipes mocked up. Those'll be fine without the hangers for your first start & go kart.


John

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post #154 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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call Mark Reynolds at Breeze. He's got the parts you need, and can talk you through the setup.

I will


Or maybe you're trying to plug it in to the wrong connector on the transmission?

This is a good possibility.

Thank you

Jason
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post #155 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 04:30 PM
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If you chose the Speedhut/FFR gauges with your complete kit you have a GPS speedo which doesn't use the transmission speed sensor or the wiring in the harness.

Jeff

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post #156 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 04:32 PM
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Hard line to flex

There are a lot of ways to go hard line to flex, right and wrong, and many variations of right..

I do a lot of custom stainless lines and except for brakes use Swagelok fittings. They are professional fluid flow products available in many materials; carbon steel and stainless steel = automotive go to and usually in-stock. Typical for fuel Tube socket to AN male is available for 3/8 and 1/2 tubing Swagelok to AN-6 or -8.

Swagelok fittings are only sold through their fluid flow distributor network but in most areas are not difficult to find.

If you are set up to do your own 37 deg AN flaring there is also the AN union route (both firewall and non-firewall style) for hard line to flex. Flare your tubing and install a union to take the flex connection. I like Aeroquip for these fittings (and most all AN fittings) for their different hose types I use.

Happy plumbing
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post #157 of 177 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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If you chose the Speedhut/FFR gauges with your complete kit you have a GPS speedo which doesn't use the transmission speed sensor or the wiring in the harness.

Jeff
Ok I have the Vintage Gauges with GPS. I saw not to install the speedometer sending unit. I did not know that was related.

Thank you

Jason
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post #158 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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I fixed the fill hose. Now the overflow tube is too short. NP
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post #159 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Day 63-83
20 of 183 total hour
8-29-2019

It's been a month since I posted in this thread. The times are estimated. I have been doing individual threads to get more responses.

The biggest thing is I'm pretty much ready to get the engine tested and tuned. I hand built the engine last year. So I'm excited to see it run and get the numbers. I wanted a professional to do the first start just in case. I have an appointment for Sept 5.

I got the car off the jacks and it stood up just fine.

I did some alignment I still need to adjust that.

I capped off the extra water pump outlets and thermostat Housings outlet.

I am not happy with the radiator fill tubing. I was thinking of buying Breeze fill tubing. What I have is fine for the start.

Distributor hold down. Lol I didn't know I needed one.

I found what I needed to finish the fuel lines. I think I will learn how to make braided lines while the car in the shop and convert later.

This included
Fuel filter
Fuel pressure Regulator
Fuel pressure gauge

It seems what I read was the carbs are sensitive so I got a regulator. The fuel pump min is right on the edge of the fuel pressure max for the carbs.

I velcro the dash with gauges until I'm ready to secure it.

I'm tempted to secure the steering wheel now. If I need to remove later for whatever reason I can use a puller.

I put the oil stick in.

Adjusted the drive shaft angle a little. It seems alot better. I still need to buy a spanner wrench and set the height to finish that.

It does not seem like a lot for a month but I have worked overtime shift every week all summer. So time been issue.

Plus I'm nervous to let the shop see my work. So I think I have been procrastinating. Lol It will be hard to hear what needs to be redone on the engine.

Jason
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post #160 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 01:45 AM
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Where is the thermostat by-pass hose?

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post #161 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Where is the thermostat by-pass hose?
I did not know anything about it.

I did a quick search and learned that it is a hose that will go from the thermostat house to the top inlet of the water pump.

Thank you I will do that tomorrow.

Jason
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post #162 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 10:30 AM
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Where is the thermostat by-pass hose?
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I did not know anything about it...

Actually I told you about it a month ago in post #149.

Jeff

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post #163 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
Where is the thermostat by-pass hose?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
I did not know anything about it...

Actually I told you about it a month ago in post #149.

Jeff
Yes sorry

"The upper port on the pump connects to the nipple on the thermostat housing via a molded hose. Walk into any auto parts store and tell them you need a bypass hose for a small block Ford---if they need for you to be more specific say it's for a 1990 Mustang with a 5.0 engine."

Not good. I remember that now. Caps was my take away. Sorry I missed it. Ok I see it now I will fix it . Thank you

Last edited by jhargrove; 08-30-2019 at 02:54 PM.
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post #164 of 177 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Jeff the 1st time and Rich the second time. Its done
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post #165 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Update

For those who have been following what I have been doing the last year and a half would know that I hand build my engine from the block up. I thought it best to have a professional do the first start incase there was something wrong that I would not be able to detect with my non experiance.

Anyways they finally got to it.

After two primer tries. It started right up!!!!

I do not have video that I can post. As soon as I do I will.

The guy said it sounds awesome and he doesn't see any issues and congratulates me for "one hell of an accomplishment"

He says he wants to do some odds and ends then do the baseline tune.

Thank God!! I was so scared there would be something totally wrong.

Thanks to all who gave advise. I could not have got it there with out you.

Jason
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post #166 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 11:48 PM
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Congrats!
Get over there so you can hear it run
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post #167 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 12:11 AM
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Great news, that is a real achievement. Building your own engine is something to be justifiably proud of.

Congratulations on the milestone.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz
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post #168 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thank you guys
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post #169 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 08:05 PM
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Congrats!
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post #170 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Update

The shop has had the cobra for 3 weeks. Ahhhhh! They only worked on it about three days. They are supper busy! It's just the way it is. They have been awesome otherwise.

There was some leaks and odds and ends to do.

One of the major things was the rear brakes were not sealing. Apparently the PS rear caliper is leaking through the spring.

Do you guys think it is defective or is it something that I did when I assembled the caliper?

When I told him I I asymbled the caliper he said that I may want to try redoing it.

Besides that the two major things they did was. The electric work for the engine and base tune the engine to include the initial timing setting.

They had to rework my linkage a little bit. That is an issue. The accelerator cable is not compatible with the linkage. So they will come up with something. I could probably do it myself but they have the car so I'm just going to let them do it. Unfortunately that means another week. They said the end of the week. That should be it.

They also said the progressive linkage is not allowing the secondary carb to open 100% they will try to figure out why. Most likely something I did. (Edelbrock dualquads)

Unfortunately they will not let me go cart it there because of the rear brakes. The front work.

We initially we had issues getting the clutch plate to work properly. I was very worried about that when I left.

He immediately emailed video with it working. He pulled it forward and backed it up. He apologized for being the first. Hey as long as it worked. He said he does not know why but he ran through the gears and no problems.
First start and go cart we had planned for me to be there. It just did not work out that way. Technically he did not go cart. He just let the clutch out and eased it forward and back.

So doing it this way I did miss out on some major milestones. First start and the initial movement. However I feel good knowing that the engine electric and tuning was done proprofessionally and the drivetran was inspected and approved by a pro. I do feel bad about not doing some of this. But I built the motor that's more than some so I give myself a break I guess.

Unfortunately his videos will not post to this site and mine will not either I guess.

Bottom line the car is pretty much go cart ready and the drivetran is awesome!

BTW the engine sounds absolutely amazing! Everything I could want in a car. Throaty and load and fantastic!

Jason

Last edited by jhargrove; 09-28-2019 at 06:27 PM.
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post #171 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 12:36 AM
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awesome, jason! i can't wait for the day to get my engine running. i've been dragging my feet recently on the build. started putting the engine back together but snapped a couple of head bolts while torquing the heads back on have slowed me down. bought a whole new bolt set so hopefully that fixes that issue.

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post #172 of 177 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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awesome, jason! i can't wait for the day to get my engine running. i've been dragging my feet recently on the build. started putting the engine back together but snapped a couple of head bolts while torquing the heads back on have slowed me down. bought a whole new bolt set so hopefully that fixes that issue.
Yikes that's some toque!!

During my engine build I was trying to bolt something I believe the girdle or windage tray

Anyways it said something like 120 for torque. I assumed ft pounds. (Which is a lot) I kept breaking the 1 st bolt like it was butter. Lol. The spec was in inch pounds. Lol crazy. It took a couple to figure it out.

Yes thank you it sounds amazing. It took me a year to build my engine. So dont beat yourself up on time. It's essential that the engine runs right so take your time.

Jason
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post #173 of 177 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Finally some video thanks to Silver

https://youtu.be/oCVSafI4ZmQ
https://youtu.be/YHsE1lYxlBA
https://youtu.be/AagYLVzX2Y4

As I said the tick mentioned has all but disappeared. He suggested I check the zero lashing to make sure.

Something I did not catch that the mechanic caught was the temp gage is in Celius. Lol I guess I need one I fahrenheit. Or is C standard for the Vintage GPS?

I check to make sure the speed was in MPH and it is.

Jason

Last edited by jhargrove; 10-01-2019 at 03:30 AM.
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post #174 of 177 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 10:10 AM
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Or is C standard for the Vintage GPS?

Yes, C is standard. Just learn the conversion; 180F=82C, 200F=93C, 212F=100C.

Jeff

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post #175 of 177 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Or is C standard for the Vintage GPS?

Yes, C is standard. Just learn the conversion; 180F=82C, 200F=93C, 212F=100C.

Jeff
Ok cool thank you
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post #176 of 177 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 01:28 PM
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The temp gauge being in C is a throwback to the British derived originals kind of like the reverse winding speedometer. Speaking of the speedo; I see that you have it left with tach on the right. You might want to consider swapping those to provide better visibility of the actual usable portion of both. After viewing the video I think the "tick" is a header leak.

Jeff

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post #177 of 177 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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The temp gauge being in C is a throwback to the British derived originals kind of like the reverse winding speedometer. Speaking of the speedo; I see that you have it left with tach on the right. You might want to consider swapping those to provide better visibility of the actual usable portion of both. After viewing the video I think the "tick" is a header leak.

Jeff

Makes sense. I think I remember reading that now. I'm surprised I did not remember. I tend to love the history aspect.

Awesome only a header leak. I will tighten it up. Thank you. I don't hear it at all. Sat he said he could bearly hear it. He was not concerned. No matter what I will tighten all that up again

Thank you always looking out for us

Jason
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