J. H. Cobra Build Thread - Page 5 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 10Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #121 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 53
2 of 137 total hour
6-25-2019

Rear brakes. Got it done with a little help from Chewy. Easy once you know what your doing! Lol.

There are instructions to download on the Factory Five website.

I forget sometimes. There are supplemental instructions under the section were you would buy parts from them.

Jason

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190627_111802_1561652785180.jpg (248.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 20190627_111812_1561652847870.jpg (255.9 KB, 31 views)
jhargrove is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #122 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 05:27 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,412
I think you're going to find that the lines to the calipers will conflict with your wheels/tires and will probably need to be repositioned so that they come to the caliper from the axle side.

Jeff


Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
post #123 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 06:52 PM
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 278
rear calipers

+1 on Jeff's comment
also, did you need to shim your calipers? mine fit fine without any spacers. it looks like you used a spacer in your install.
I'd recommend also tightening down at least 2 of the hub nuts as the rotor sits a bit crooked if you only have it secured in one spot, which will affect your caliper and pad spacing.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #124 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
I think you're going to find that the lines to the calipers will conflict with your wheels/tires and will probably need to be repositioned so that they come to the caliper from the axle side.

Jeff
I will do that. Thank you
jhargrove is online now  
post #125 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
+1 on Jeff's comment
also, did you need to shim your calipers? mine fit fine without any spacers. it looks like you used a spacer in your install.
I'd recommend also tightening down at least 2 of the hub nuts as the rotor sits a bit crooked if you only have it secured in one spot, which will affect your caliper and pad spacing.
Idk. Looks right to me. There was some space. I did have them tight and backwards. Lol I switched them around and only tighten one. Thank you
jhargrove is online now  
post #126 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 07:29 PM
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 278
i'm just saying that in your pic, only one of the 5 hub nuts is tight to the rotor. I found that the rotor sits a bit at an angle unless you tighten another nut down. this will affect how your caliper sits and whether or not you need to shim them.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is offline  
post #127 of 158 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
i'm just saying that in your pic, only one of the 5 hub nuts is tight to the rotor. I found that the rotor sits a bit at an angle unless you tighten another nut down. this will affect how your caliper sits and whether or not you need to shim them.
When I did it had them tight. I only tighten one after the fact.

Thank you

Jason
jhargrove is online now  
post #128 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 54
1 of 138 total hour
7-1-2019

Headers. Straightforward.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190701_204024_1562033814678.jpg (250.6 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 20190701_203957_1562033835626.jpg (247.1 KB, 34 views)
jhargrove is online now  
post #129 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 55
2 of 140 total hour
7-3-2019

Once again I had all day set aside to work on the car and actually only used 2.

I did miscellaneous tasks.

I had to redo a header because I dropped a allen wrench in between outside of the pipes were they are all coming together and I could not fish it out. So I took it off to get it out and even then it took some manipulation. Only me.

The carbs were just sitting there since the engine install. So I put all the gaskets in and bolted them down. I still need to secure the front manual choke wide open as per the manufacturer's instructions. I just need a piece of wire.

I installed the fuel rail.

I started on the linkage. I tried to follow the instructions. Called the tech. I'm not satisfied. I have no idea how the accelerator is supose to attach and the spring mount were suppose to go with the manifold bolts possibly.

Bottom line is I believe this is all part of the engine tuning general tuning. The shop that is going to test and tune already told me they can take care of all that. So I will let them do that. I wanted to at least familiarize my self. The guy said they will give me instruction on how to maintain the tune. I will learn during that process.

Really did not get much done.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190703_144345_1562292772379.jpg (270.8 KB, 31 views)
jhargrove is online now  
post #130 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Deflated!

Went to go put the fuel regulator, flex lines, accelerator cable, linkage, clutch cable with firewall adjuster. None of it worked as planned. Back to the drawing board on those. I need a better understanding of how these things work.

Decided to move on to the cooling system to make some progress. Nope. The Breeze mounting kits required some tasks I am just not comfortable with such a sawing brackets of the frame. Possibly changing the radiator crossmember. I doubt that needed done but it was a possibility.

Anyways I decided I will mount the fan to the radiator and the shroud to the radiator. Then mount the radiator as the manual says to do. That will have to be a upgrade down the line.

Even the shroud is not straight forward because the supplied brackets for the fan to radiator seems like they will interfere with the way the shroud mounts. I'm assuming the bit of gap caused by the fan mount will not effect the shroud mount.

Jason

jhargrove is online now  
post #131 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 02:50 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Anyways I decided I will mount the fan to the radiator and the shroud to the radiator. Then mount the radiator as the manual says to do. That will have to be a upgrade down the line.

Even the shroud is not straight forward because the supplied brackets for the fan to radiator seems like they will interfere with the way the shroud mounts. I'm assuming the bit of gap caused by the fan mount will not effect the shroud mount.

Jason
Sorry you're having trouble. Hang in there! Adding the shroud is much easier than you're making it. With the shroud, you don't use the kit provided fan mounting parts. You mount the shroud to the radiator, and the fan to the shroud. That's it. Pretty easy. I put nutserts in the shroud so I didn't have to mess with nuts and washers mounting the fan. But not mandatory. You may not have this exact version radiator or shroud, because both have changed. But the idea is the same.

v


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #132 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Lol the fan goes on the outside of the shroud. Ok. We do have different radiators. For this it does not matter. However I dont have the nice hole in top to help me hold it in place while I do final install.

I will get it done I'm just venting a bit to people who understand. Plus I know I will get valuable feed back like you provided.

Thanks Edward. I must have missed that in the instructions. I put it aside untill tomorrow. I usually have a better go at then. This will make it easier.

I see how the regulator goes too. Its designed to create the threading as you thread the provided screws in. Im going to call Holly tomorrow to verify. The gauge and fitting when tight sits backward not sure what to do about that.

BTW another mistake I made was the thermostat and housing should have been in place prior to installing the manifold. There was no room for a Allen wrench to get the inside screw in. I had to shorten a Allen wrench to get tight.

My thermostat already had a bleed hole or whatever you call in the top. I made sure that was in the 12 I clock postion.

I did not receive a gasket. I got a o ring. Not sure if I need a gasket too. Easy fix if so.

Jason



Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190717_220120_1563421983103.jpg (170.6 KB, 15 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 07-18-2019 at 03:58 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #133 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 57
7 of 147 total hour
7-18-2019

Took way longer than expected but it looks good to me.

Radiator mounted
Breeze lower support
Upper Hose

I used a combo of Breeaz upper mounting bracket and factory five instructions. The hinge and my inhibitions to remove some brackets did not work for me.

The lower bracket worked perfect. I did not snug down the middle screw so as to allow for some movement as per instructions


I made sure the angle was 51 degrees I bought s digital angle finder.

The fan shroud awesome!

The upper house looks workable to me.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190718_192832_1563497453012.jpg (269.7 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 20190718_184040_1563497538305.jpg (220.9 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 20190718_184117_1563497612963.jpg (166.4 KB, 20 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 07-19-2019 at 09:27 PM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #134 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:15 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Major
 
rich grsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: O'Fallon, Mo
Posts: 7,311
Did you really put the radiator in upside down?

Last edited by rich grsc; 07-19-2019 at 02:27 AM.
rich grsc is offline  
post #135 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:19 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 194
Really sorry to tell you this but your radiator is upside down.
Murd is offline  
post #136 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Ok. Its seemed universal to me except what I assume was the drain is at the bottom.

This is the shot of bottom passenger side looking into the engine bay.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190718_184117_1563504491798.jpg (166.4 KB, 18 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 07-19-2019 at 04:41 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #137 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
How do can you tell? Nothing in the instructions indicates orientation I did what I thought looked right.

I would like to know the proper orientation so I can change it tomorrow.

I read through the instructions and nothing. I dont have the same radiator as in the picture. I did not have all those holes in the top all the flange was without holes. Both inlet/outlet was angled the same. The only difference was what I think is the drain which I assume goes on the bottom. Which it is

Also why does it want you to offset it by 5/8? Does that apply for this radiator?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190718-214948_Drive_1563504668462.jpg (104.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190718-214937_Drive_1563504680401.jpg (102.6 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190718-221601_Drive_1563506189192.jpg (116.7 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 07-19-2019 at 03:18 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #138 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:20 AM
Member
 
Nigel Allen's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: South Australia
Posts: 82
which way does the radiator go? A good question. You are not alone here Jase. it was a long time ago, but from memory I'm pretty sure my radiator would have worked whichever way up I put it. Although one way did fit slightly better for my coyote.
I do wish that I had centered my radiator as I ended up replacing the panelling around the radiator, with brushed stainless steel in such a way that it did not need to be notched out for the quickjack bolts. It turned out really well, but would have looked prettier without the radiator off centre. (A lesson learnt in spending some time studying the forum instead of going like a bull at a gate.
Oh well...)
Attached a cuppla pics of the metal work along with a few dead bugs stuck to the radiator. After weeks of cold and rain, today was a perfect sunny cruising day. So I got out there and gave it a good go.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190719_163228_1563519858883.jpg (244.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190719_163239_1563519930918.jpg (243.2 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190719_163245_1563520724166.jpg (239.6 KB, 13 views)
Nigel Allen is online now  
post #139 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 10:44 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,716
Edit: Deleted because what I said was WRONG. Sorry for the confusion. Jeff explains below. At least I got the next part right. I think.

As for the centering or 5/8 inch offset, that's to accommodate donor radiators. You can mount the complete kit new radiator centered. That's how I've always done them and others have said the same thing.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 07-19-2019 at 06:32 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #140 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Thanks Edward and Nigel

Edward I agree after the couple comments I looked and looked. If I changed the orientation the drain or petcock I guess would be at the top.

I'm leaving it.

Thanks for answering the question about the offset I'm glad I centered it.

Jason
jhargrove is online now  
post #141 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 03:09 PM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
...I agree that most likely the newer style radiator could be mounted either way. But the way I mounted it in my Coupe build (same one) is with the petcock on the side of the tank on the right side bottom, and with the petcock on the back of the tank on the left side top....
Sorry, but this is incorrect information in this case. Yes, the same radiator is used in both the roadster and Coupe however there is a key difference---in the roadster the top of the radiator leans rearward but in the Coupe it leans forward. The radiator gets flipped depending on which car it is being used in but in either case when installed correctly the hose connections are horizontal (get it upside down and the connections point down in the roadster or up in the Coupe).

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post

I'm leaving it.

Jason
Don't do that Jason because it will be wrong. Your radiator is indeed upside down. When you flip it the hose connections will be horizontal, the bleed petcock will be at the top on the side of the tank on the driver's side and the drain petcock will be pointing rearward at the bottom of the tank on the passenger side.

I just went out to the shop and snapped this picture of one that I have under construction for you to use as reference:



Good luck,
Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
post #142 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Well that sucks cant Edward be right. I don't know why they don't say stuff like that in the instructions.

Last edited by jhargrove; 07-19-2019 at 03:21 PM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #143 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 04:45 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Major
 
rich grsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: O'Fallon, Mo
Posts: 7,311
Well it's common sense the radiator hoses don't point towards the ground, and the drain petcock wouldn't be on the side where you can't get to it. Did the upper hose really look 'right' the way it was connected?
rich grsc is offline  
post #144 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
Well it's common sense the radiator hoses don't point towards the ground, and the drain petcock wouldn't be on the side where you can't get to it. Did the upper hose really look 'right' the way it was connected?
They are both angled.
jhargrove is online now  
post #145 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 06:34 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Sorry, but this is incorrect information in this case. Yes, the same radiator is used in both the roadster and Coupe however there is a key difference---in the roadster the top of the radiator leans rearward but in the Coupe it leans forward. The radiator gets flipped depending on which car it is being used in but in either case when installed correctly the hose connections are horizontal (get it upside down and the connections point down in the roadster or up in the Coupe).
You're right of course Jeff. Clearly didn't think that through with the different angles the radiators are installed between the Coupe and the Roadster. I updated my post. Sorry for the confusion.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #146 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Ok thanks everyone. The angle on the outlets were better for sure.

It took me a couple hours but I flipped the radiator around and reoriented the fan and shroud. Angle is perfect.

Looks good the hoses look good except there is the mystery of the two missing hose clamps. To be continued.

I'm going to put the overflow in next then I'm probably done for the week. Once that is mounted I might need advise on the the hoses.

I see what FFR is telling me however I have two spots on the water pump that need some plumbing. Plus I dont know exactly where the thermostat switch will go. But I'm going to try to figure it out see what I come up with and then ask later.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190718_192804_1563565919223.jpg (270.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_144402_1563565965295.jpg (250.9 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_144416_1563565984523.jpg (209.5 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_144420_1563566000070.jpg (239.3 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 07-19-2019 at 08:02 PM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #147 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 58
5 of 152 total hour
7-3-2019

Reoriented the radiator, fan and shroud.

Upper and lower radiator hoses including inline filler. I put padding and zip tie on the lower hose to x member.

Overflow, bracket and hose to filler. I made sure not put it in the one that had the pipe inside the overflow container.

I see that the extra ports on the water pump and housing will need stoppers.

The fan thermostat switch will need to go in the manifold I need a adapter to make it work.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190719_161459_1563571495732.jpg (253.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_161509_1563571517194.jpg (272.6 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_161524_1563571535613.jpg (275.6 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_161113_1563571563062.jpg (258.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 20190719_161102_1563571596590.jpg (211.6 KB, 15 views)
jhargrove is online now  
post #148 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 09:52 AM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,412
That's better Jason Now on to something else; your filler needs to be at the highest point rather than lower than the curve in the upper hose as it is now otherwise you will find it impossible to get the system fully filled (ever try to pour water uphill? ). You can see that in the photo I posted yesterday or even better in this one that silver_pilate Nathan put up in your thread about the overlow tank:



Keep working at it!

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
post #149 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 09:58 AM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
I see that the extra ports on the water pump and housing will need stoppers.
The upper port on the pump connects to the nipple on the thermostat housing via a molded hose. Walk into any auto parts store and tell them you need a bypass hose for a small block Ford---if they need for you to be more specific say it's for a 1990 Mustang with a 5.0 engine. If you are not using a heater the lower port on the pump can be capped.

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
post #150 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
I see that the extra ports on the water pump and housing will need stoppers.
The upper port on the pump connects to the nipple on the thermostat housing via a molded hose. Walk into any auto parts store and tell them you need a bypass hose for a small block Ford---if they need for you to be more specific say it's for a 1990 Mustang with a 5.0 engine. If you are not using a heater the lower port on the pump can be capped.



Jeff
Yes I figured. I guess the the radiator to filler is too short. I worked with it for sometime but could not make it work. I will re work it.

Thank you
Jason
jhargrove is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 shark92651 Ford Modular Engine Roadster Builds 193 Today 02:30 AM
FFR 9457 Roadster build thread sdonnel Factory Five Roadsters 23 05-31-2019 02:10 PM
Factory Five Cobra Build: Lessons Learned TacoJoe Factory Five Roadsters 10 04-07-2019 10:11 AM
Durham College students build FFR MkIV Cobra SunDude Canadian Region sponsored by Specialty Car Parts Canada 0 01-20-2019 12:22 PM
Keys FFR8013 build thread kgkeys Factory Five Roadsters 56 03-28-2017 04:21 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.