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post #61 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Day 13 and 14

4 of 36 total hours

3 -29-19

Pedal box

I only got the pedal box assembled and installed. As far as I can tell it's done good. Except I had another issue with bolt recognition. So I do not think the clutch quadrant stop is the right bolt also the one going through the middle of the clutch assembly. It's all tight and secure. Should be good. I will probally try to locate just the clutch stop and put a new one on. One of the bolts for the front bracket may not be right but it was the same size and good fit.

I still need to read more on the balance bar for the master cylinders so I can make sure that is adjusted properly.

I was going to do the accelerator pedal but I will hold off until Mon.

I noticed my body hanging from my ceiling is a little bent/ folded a little I might try to support that a little better not sure if I can do permanent damage to it?

Jason


Jason; what I ended up doing was ‘borrowing’ one of the longer bolts from the Pedal Box Front Mount, since it doesn’t really need such a long bolt, and using that as the Clutch stop bolt. It’s the same length that you have going through the quadrant and pedal arm center hole.

You probably found, like I did, the shorter bolts are too short to go through the middle of the Clutch arm, and too short for the Clutch stop.


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post #62 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Jason; what I ended up doing was ‘borrowing’ one of the longer bolts from the Pedal Box Front Mount, since it doesn’t really need such a long bolt, and using that as the Clutch stop bolt. It’s the same length that you have going through the quadrant and pedal arm center hole.

You probably found, like I did, the shorter bolts are too short to go through the middle of the Clutch arm, and too short for the Clutch stop.

Awesome I will look into this

Thank you


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post #63 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Check the manual for the clearances pointed by the red arrows. Yours look a bit large to me.

Wilwood balance 3 by craig stuard, on Flickr


Craig; how do you post pics with Flickr? I can’t figure that out and have to limp my way through Photobucket.


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post #64 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 12:10 PM
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DadOfThree has excellent instructions for posting photos with Flickr: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/43-off...um-flickr.html


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post #65 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Day 15 and 16

4 of 40 total hours

4-4-19

Pedal box and accelerator

It has been a little bit since I have made any progress. Youth Baseball started up so that took several days I was using to work on the car.

Next week starting Thursday I have 19 days strait dedicated to working on the car. My goal is to install the engine. However if FFR doesn't send my backed ordered parts I don't think that will happen. There are key items I need to finish the rear end and steering front end. I called them they said they had everything except rear calipers they just need to send them in order which they may or may not get to me before then. That's a little frustrating but I know everybody wants their back order too.

I still cant figure out how to close the gap of the brake balance bar. I took it apart as far as I dared and cant move the parts I need to. I can adjust the balance though that's something.


With a little help from Chewy I managed to get the accelerator pedal on. Seems to be good. I am going to put the ffr cable on because that's what is available to me now. It seems a easy trade out if I decide to go a different route.

I have read the instructions and it's not very descriptive on the cable. But I still need to

Clip the bar end off
Thread the supplied end peice on
Mount cable to the pedal box face and
screw the supplied end piece to the pedal top arm.

Any picks of all this would be awesome.

Jason
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File Type: jpg 20190403_165802_1554416572006.jpg (234.6 KB, 36 views)
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post #66 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 05:49 AM
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J. H. Cobra Build Thread

I’ll tell you what I did to close the gap between the arms on the balance bar. I took the Rear brake master cylinder threaded shaft and backed it out of the threaded mount on the brake pedal. I chose that one because it is not set-screwed to the balance bar. Once the threaded shaft was free of the threaded mount, I pivoted the threaded mount to parallel the balance bar shaft, and this allowed me to spin the threaded mount over the balance bar. The nut threaded up the balance bar until both mounts/washers were almost touching the pedal arm. Then I turned the threaded mount back to the normal position perpendicular to the balance bar, threaded the Master Cylinder threaded shaft back into the threaded mount, and done! Aside from adjusting the balance bar... which I’m going to have to wait on until I get the front brakes and everything tightened up, filled and bled.


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post #67 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you isaac I will look into this why I wait for parts this week.
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post #68 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Day 17 and 18
4 of 44 total hours
4-6-19

First anyone that hasn't started a build a expansive set of Allen wrenchs, not in a folding case, is necessary. I have used all kinds of the these wrenches and I still very early in the build.

Anyways not much this week. Finished the accelerator and pedal box.

Sorta mocked of the front steering but I lack essential parts.

Also for people that have not started finding all the parts can take time make sure you find all of it and lay it all out. Also you going to end up mocking it all together and taking it apart and putting it back together. This is a bennifet actually it makes sure your double checking everything.

I found all the parts for the steering and did a couple "dry runs". I made some mistakes. I think I have it. I just need parts. For some reason I found making the counter sink or whatever you would call it for set screws fun. I thought they looked pretty awesome!

I do think the upper pillow bearing and or the upper steering shaft is wrong. I'm going to work on the break balance bar this week and wait for parts.

Jason
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post #69 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
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I’ll tell you what I did to close the gap between the arms on the balance bar. I took the Rear brake master cylinder threaded shaft and backed it out of the threaded mount on the brake pedal. I chose that one because it is not set-screwed to the balance bar. Once the threaded shaft was free of the threaded mount, I pivoted the threaded mount to parallel the balance bar shaft, and this allowed me to spin the threaded mount over the balance bar. The nut threaded up the balance bar until both mounts/washers were almost touching the pedal arm. Then I turned the threaded mount back to the normal position perpendicular to the balance bar, threaded the Master Cylinder threaded shaft back into the threaded mount, and done! Aside from adjusting the balance bar... which I’m going to have to wait on until I get the front brakes and everything tightened up, filled and bled.
Basically correct. But one caution about the bolded sentence. As the instructions say and illustrate in the build manual (copied BTW directly from Wilwood documentation): "In the neutral position, clevises should have between .20” - .25” total clearance between the side of the pedal. The large washers between the pedal and clevis should remain loose."
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post #70 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah! Factory Five said they would send out my back order this week and they did.

Everything except headers and rear calipers.

I will be able to go back and finish up the rear and front. Then move on for my 2 week vaction/work on the car.

Jason

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post #71 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Going back to the Pedal box.


I took the master cylinders off and fixed the gaps. The washers spin freely.

Thank you everyone.

I still want to make sure the bar is even but I only had a few moments today.

Jason
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post #72 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 11:41 PM
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I took the master cylinders off and fixed the gaps. The washers spin freely.
Maybe it's the picture, but still looks tight. It's more than just the washers being loose. There should be a total of .20 - .25 (1/4 inch) of space between the two sides. Maybe it doesn't seem intuitive for it to be that way. But it's so the balance bar doesn't bind up when pushed to sharp angles. Check page 19 on these instructions. It's illustrated clearly.

http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conten...ILWOOD-NEW.pdf
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post #73 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
I took the master cylinders off and fixed the gaps. The washers spin freely.
Maybe it's the picture, but still looks tight. It's more than just the washers being loose. There should be a total of .20 - .25 (1/4 inch) of space between the two sides. Maybe it doesn't seem intuitive for it to be that way. But it's so the balance bar doesn't bind up when pushed to sharp angles. Check page 19 on these instructions. It's illustrated clearly.

http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conten...ILWOOD-NEW.pdf
Ok I will measure it

Ok I did .09 I will fix it tomorrow thank you
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post #74 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Not much to report lately. I have not accomplished much. I had little time.

I'm now a couple days into my 2 weeks off to work on the kit.

However I decided to use a part from Breeze for the steering rack that should be here soon. So I cant finish that and the steering.

I did have all the part to finish the 3 link. Except now I went to assemble the koni coilover and the sleeve and screw on retainer was not a good match. I get to a certain point (not far enough for the spring to fit) and it wont go any further. I tried many times and even used a specialty wrench to get it past when I knew it was not cross threaded. The other 3 went together supper easy.

So bottom line is I ordered another sleeve kit and that should be here soon.

I don't want to go any further until the 3 link is done and the steering. Also I want to set the height the best I can.

So this will be a couple days with out any work. But the next step after that is cockpit panels. That will be fun. Really start to see the car coming together.

Jason
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post #75 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:09 PM
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I don't want to go any further until the 3 link is done and the steering. Also I want to set the height the best I can.

So this will be a couple days with out any work. But the next step after that is cockpit panels. That will be fun. Really start to see the car coming together.

Jason
You don't need steering or suspension to mark and drill all of the aluminum...SO GET BUSY

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post #76 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post


I don't want to go any further until the 3 link is done and the steering. Also I want to set the height the best I can.

So this will be a couple days with out any work. But the next step after that is cockpit panels. That will be fun. Really start to see the car coming together.

Jason
You don't need steering or suspension to mark and drill all of the aluminum...SO GET BUSY [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/FFCars_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]

Jeff
Ok I will I'm excited about that! I just did not want to keep leaving things undone

Thank you
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post #77 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Day 19 - 24
12 of 56 total hours
4-15-16

Over the last couple days I worked on a variety of tasks such as the break balance bar. I wanted to get a better understanding of the steering and rear end which I did going as far as I had parts for.

I went on ahead and did the passenger foot box.
I did a good job labeling everything when I took it apart it made it a lot easier. I followed the directions except I I mocked it all up drilled all the holes then took it apart and did final asymbly.

It's the first time is serval day I felt like I accomplished something.

I will clean up the panels when the silicone sets.

Jason
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post #78 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:26 AM
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Progress!

Tip: Use acetone get those mill stampings as well as your Sharpie notes off of the panels ASAP. The unprotected raw aluminum will naturally oxidize however not under the ink---if you wait several months to clean the marking off the lettering will still show as shiny, unoxidized aluminum.

Jeff

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post #79 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Progress!

Tip: Use acetone get those mill stampings as well as your Sharpie notes off of the panels ASAP. The unprotected raw aluminum will naturally oxidize however not under the ink---if you wait several months to clean the marking off the lettering will still show as shiny, unoxidized aluminum.

Jeff
Ok I will. I was making sure the silicone was set before hand

Thank you
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post #80 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:05 AM
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I haven’t read anything about brake and fuel lines, I’d suggest running those before you get any further installing aluminum panels unless you just want to drill and temporarily cleco them.
I would also suggest either at this time or soon, do drill and cleco all your panels so they are ready to go. Don’t install until you absolutely have to in order to reach the next step.
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post #81 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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I haven’t read anything about brake and fuel lines, I’d suggest running those before you get any further installing aluminum panels unless you just want to drill and temporarily cleco them.
I would also suggest either at this time or soon, do drill and cleco all your panels so they are ready to go. Don’t install until you absolutely have to in order to reach the next step.
Thank you. I will look into it
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post #82 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Day 25-27

15 of 71 total hour

4-17-19

Still working on panels.

I know some say not to seal and rivet all that down but following the directions is what I did. The book tells you when not to seal, rivet and drill. Chewy I was able to fix my mistake from sealing the one side down early (the instructions clearly stated not to do this that's my fault completley)

I do not have enough understanding of break and fuel lines to even began until I have breaks and such in place. So please do not think I'm not listening to you guys I just feel comfortable following the instructions.

I got one piece I need to complete the shocks and remove the Jack I have I just need a .25 space ffr is sending to complete that project.

Then breeze steering rack bushings should be here by then and I will finish that.

I mocked up some of the panels not all those are secured

Jason
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post #83 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:21 AM
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Jason,
The reason everyone is telling you not to permanently attach panels is it will make other tasks much harder than they need to be.
Brake and fuel lines, wiring, all easier with less panels on the car.
I noticed there are only 2 rivets on the drivers inside panel bump out. Need lots more there. Also that drivers top panel, the tab at the front tucks behind the front panel.
Hopefully you haven’t installed the cockpit back walls, the trunk has to go in first, the manual is out of order on this. Don’t install the trunk or back wall yet or it will make brake and fuel lines as well as wiring really hard and not much fun.
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post #84 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Jason,
The reason everyone is telling you not to permanently attach panels is it will make other tasks much harder than they need to be.
Brake and fuel lines, wiring, all easier with less panels on the car.
I noticed there are only 2 rivets on the drivers inside panel bump out. Need lots more there. Also that drivers top panel, the tab at the front tucks behind the front panel.
Hopefully you haven’t installed the cockpit back walls, the trunk has to go in first, the manual is out of order on this. Don’t install the trunk or back wall yet or it will make brake and fuel lines as well as wiring really hard and not much fun.
None of the panels you mentioned are installed yet. There just sitting there and or left undone per the instructions. Thank you. Hopefully I didn't make it too difficult for myself. Thank you

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post #85 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Day 28

4 of 77 total hour
4-18-19

Trying to finish up this rear end now I can not find the appropriate shims that go on the pan hard assembly. Factory Five is sending me what I need. Too many projects at once and not as organized as I thought.

But the Moser rear end is standing on it's own and looks great!

I got some aviation snips and trimmed the little over lap off the under door panel.

Really did not get much done. However my Breeze bushing came today! Sat I will finish up the little bit more of panels and start on the steering rack and steering.

Jason
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post #86 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Day 29

5 of 82 total hour

4-20-19

Not a bad day pretty happy.

I got the steering rack and tie rods on with breeze bushings. Steering is smooth and working. Rough alignment is rough. I will try to work on that.

I also cut the under door panels to size and attached those. As per the instructions.

Ha if I bolt the wheels and tires on I could roll it down a big hill. The best soap box derby car ever! No brakes? Maybe not such a good idea. Lol

All in all not bad.

Jason
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post #87 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 02:52 AM
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Just reading through your post and viewing your pictures, coming along nicely.

Curious, are the chassis' powder coated matte black now? Mine was a semi-gloss, closer to gloss finish.


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F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
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post #88 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MPTech View Post
Just reading through your post and viewing your pictures, coming along nicely.

Curious, are the chassis' powder coated matte black now? Mine was a semi-gloss, closer to gloss finish.
Matted. I really like it.

Thank you
Jason

Last edited by jhargrove; 04-21-2019 at 04:15 AM.
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post #89 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Day 30
5 of 87 total hour
4-21-19

Anyways before people look at what I did I understand that most will leave the panel to the last possible moment. I choose to follow the instructions. The top and side of the pedal box is not riveted or sealed. The back cockpit panel is not either. I did not even drill this yet.

I also tried to put the pedal box flange on opposite the instructions twice. I can not make it work. Sorry I tried. It works great per the instructions.

Please do not take offense for the panels and flange. I still desire your comments and help on this build. I have listened to almost all the suggestions so far.

Ok with that said I feel good about my progress it just not as fast as I thought. I did take advise and not set goals and time frames. I have been going supper slow.

I finished the cockpit and pedal box as far as I was willing to go and and as the instructions dictate.

I feel I at a significant end of a phase.

1. Front Suspension
2. Rear Suspension and axle
3. Pedal box
4. Steering Rack
5. Steering
6. Foot boxes and Cockpit Aluminum

6 phases done

Since I feel this was a good time to do this. I also went through every step and made sure I did everything the instructions asked and all the bolts were secure and accounted for.

Anybody building for the first time: I have a feeling we are all going to have to start and not finish sections due to back ordered part or choices and have to go back to it several weeks or maybe months. So I am going to make sure I go back every significant milestone or when I think is a good time and recheck to make sure I did everything. Stay organized.

Also when riveting: if you are having a hard time getting the drill in a tight spot look on the other side there is probally plenty of room. Unless for some reason you want that side of the rivet showing.

Tomorrow Fuel system

Jason
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Last edited by jhargrove; 04-23-2019 at 03:17 PM.
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post #90 of 158 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Day 32
4 of 91 total hour
4-23-19

Gas tank and filter installed. I followed Jeff's advise:

Ratched straps
Long screws are a must!
Don't forget to bend the flange strait!

The loop for the front strap was not fun!!!! But I got them filed/opened up. That's important because they have to be able to come off again I believe to install jacks/bumpers.

The back of the the tank strap did not come flush with the frame. I figured that was ok.

Jason
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Last edited by jhargrove; 04-24-2019 at 09:39 PM.
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