J. H. Cobra Build Thread - Page 2 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 10Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #31 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 09:33 PM
Senior Member
 
phileas_fogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 1,084
I have used this heat gun https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to loosen red loctite plenty of times. Lots of heat, and I found it more easy to aim than the propane torch I had.

When you do get the ball joints apart, run a wire brush through the threads of both the plate and the joint. After I did that, the joints went in almost by hand.


John

P.S. The reason it took me so long to build my car is that I did it three times! AND...I can count on one hand the number of parts that went together properly/exactly right the first time. As a rock climbing buddy told me, "Don't fret...you're doing it right...just solve the problem that's in front of you."


MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
phileas_fogg is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Thank you John. Yes I did same finishing my basement. I did that at least 3 times. Lol

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 15526940126278746342820483247795_1552694028883.jpg (218.1 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 03-16-2019 at 12:50 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #33 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 04:36 AM
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Days 1-5

3‐15-19

This week was a big learning curve. I basically did not get much done. F panels which was cool. I put the lower control arms on. One upper control arm. The bolt to the back did not go one way no room to get back there. Shocks are still waiting to be assembled.

I worked a lot of hours with little done. Basically having to make a run or two to the store for more tools. Which I thought I had plenty. I see why these builds take a long time. Once I get use to how things work on this thing and how the boxes are organized I'm sure things will go quicker and easier. In theory.

The ball joint was the biggest issue. Still working on this. I have to go get a a better heat source to loosen this up enough to get the ball joint out again. I was thinking a small propane torch?

Any newbies reading this I suggest getting the ball joint socket and using a impact wrench. The vise will work if the ball is threading somewhat easily. If not you will need a strong table and a lot of weight and torque. Otherwise if it's hard i suggest using the socket even if you have to buy a compressor and wrench. And don't start until you have everything or the threader locker will start doing its job.

One last thing, I was wondering if others thought the same. I wish FFR was more clear on what bolt asymbly bags part number is used for what part.

I opened box 1 which had upper control, ball joints shocks and steering assembly. Plus all the hardware. It was up to me by matching bolts with pics and video to make sure I was using the right stuff. The bags are marked but that did not match the parts list. I figured it out but it would make it so much easier to grab the bag for control arms only and bolt it on not have to sort through a bunch of stuff.

Jason
Been there, done that. Just very recently. I ended up using a propane torch to heat up the thread lock. I used an air impact gun w/ a ball joint socket (1-59/64"...for chrysler small ball joints) to remove it. I had a 2ft breaker bar w/ an additional 3 ft steel pipe cheater bar ready in case the impact gun couldn't remove it. As edwardb recommended, using a wire wheel on a drill to remove the coating on the threads of the BJ made it thread in smoothly. make sure you thread lock it and torque it down.
Pay attention to your spindles. They are labeled driver and passenger side, but you end up putting them on the opposite sides of the car (the passenger side goes on the driver's side and vice versa). And also pay attention to the control arms that attach the spindles to the outer tie rods. There is a subtle difference with the tie rod hole being larger on one side vs the other. The larger hole faces the ground and the smaller hole faces up.
I'm not too much farther on my build than you. There hasn't been a part that I haven't had to remove/redo.
make sure you check the settings on your shocks before installing them. It's recommended that they are set to the softest setting, which is supposed to be the factory default, but you might as well check them before you have to remove and reinstall them like I did. There's a link on my build page on how to reset the shocks.
Lastly, I decided to slow down my build despite my enthusiasm to dive right in and take some time reading others' build pages. Lots of mistakes that have been made before me, and I'm trying not to repeat history. Also it's nice to get some ideas on modifications that are easier to do now rather than later.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #34 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Egchewy


Thank you. Looks like we will be building this thing together.

I'm not rushing I assure you. I try to read post I guess I missed it. I use videos too. I just have time to work on it. My kids are older and my wife is supporting via letting me be in the garage when I want.

Anyways thanks for the advise I will use all of it.

Jason
jhargrove is online now  
post #35 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 6

3-16-19

After some difficulty initially, I got the ball joint in with no effort with the right tools.

I have the upper and lower control arm on the chassis and the rest will have to wait until Monday. I did remember the spacer in the front.

Yippy!

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190316_122200_1552758445673.jpg (244.1 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg 20190316_122226_1552758485406.jpg (245.3 KB, 45 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 03-20-2019 at 02:29 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #36 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 06:00 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,716
Woo-hoo! Thank goodness, right?

Another small hint. Looks like you have your F-panels permanently attached, and doesn't look like you've done anything to the aluminum. Don't know what your plans are there. But one thing you may want to do though, if you're planning to leave them a natural color, is to remove that marking ink. Wipe the aluminum down with lacquer thinner or acetone. The aluminum will naturally oxidize over time and the longer you leave those ink marks, it will show when you remove them because it doesn't oxidize there. Small thing I know, but something you might want to think about.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 03-16-2019 at 06:44 PM.
edwardb is online now  
post #37 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Woo-hoo! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/FFCars_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG] Thank goodness, right?

Another small hint. Looks like you have your F-panels permanently attached, and doesn't look like you've done anything to the aluminum. Don't know what your plans are there. But one thing you may want to do though, if you're planning to leave them a natural color, is to remove that marking ink. Wipe the aluminum down with lacquer thinner or acetone. The aluminum will naturally oxidize over time and the longer you leave those ink marks, it will show when you remove them because it doesn't oxidize there. Small think I know, but something you might want to think about.
I was going to paint the engine bay panels. I thought if I Jack them up and or they start chipping or peeling for one reason or the other that would not be good either. So I went with the safe bet and left then natural which I like alright.

I did remove the marking on one. I did not realize it came off until the second. I had already put the first on. I just need to clean it. Thank you for reminding me.

Jason.
jhargrove is online now  
post #38 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 10:25 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
JRCuz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Stafford, Virginia
Posts: 519
A friend with a MK3 he's had on the road for about 4 yrs left his engine bay panels unfinished and they look fine, wish I had left mine bare also.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
JRCuz is offline  
post #39 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRCuz View Post
A friend with a MK3 he's had on the road for about 4 yrs left his engine bay panels unfinished and they look fine, wish I had left mine bare also.
JR

Awesome. A lot of people like that raw look. I know it better than bad paint by me. Lol
jhargrove is online now  
post #40 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 7

3-18-19

Ok not a lot done but for a work day on a Monday not bad.

I got the shocks asymblem and installed.

I made sure to use the right size spacers in the right spots.

I also made sure to zip tie.

The snap rings were secure and not aligned with the hat opening.

There was no way I saw to tighten the bolt between the rubber stopper and end of the shock? I assume that all was taken care of when I tighten the whole thing up.

I don't think it matter what way the spring is on? The Factory Five logo is upside down on one?

Jason

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190318_201506_1552962385552.jpg (213.4 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg 20190318_201450_1552962401448.jpg (244.6 KB, 35 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 03-20-2019 at 02:29 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #41 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:46 AM
Not a waxer
 
JKleiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 11,412
Did you check the rebound setting on the shocks before assembling them with the springs? They "should" have come from the manufacturer on the lowest setting however over the years I have found some that were not, maybe 20%. FYI, our red bodied shocks are the 30 Series:

KONI | Adjustment Guides

Jeff

Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 #7276 "indy14" Build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mk4 Bodywork thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JKleiner is offline  
post #42 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Did you check the rebound setting on the shocks before assembling them with the springs? They "should" have come from the manufacturer on the lowest setting however over the years I have found some that were not, maybe 20%. FYI, our red bodied shocks are the 30 Series:

KONI | Adjustment Guides

Jeff
Yes Sir
jhargrove is online now  
post #43 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 8

3-19-19

My usual Tuesday plans changed and I was able to work on the spindles and steering arms.

Spindles and steering arms installed! I made sure to put the one marked passenger on the driver side and vice versa.

It took me a few min to figure how to manipulate the upper control arms to get the ball joint to fit into the spindle. I did with min effort. I still need to put the cotter pins in the passenger spindle.

Hubs tomorrow I have a 300 ft lb torque wrench and a 36mm socket. I should be set.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190319_211207_1553048815164.jpg (246.4 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg 20190319_211224_1553048843041.jpg (247.2 KB, 32 views)
jhargrove is online now  
post #44 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 9

Part 1 Complete - Independent Front Suspension with front hubs, rotors, calipers and brakes

3-20-19 20 plus hours. A lot of running to the store and dealing with ball joints.

Nothing really to say 1st big step done. I will start the Moser Rear axle and Suspension.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190320_162445_1553117691036.jpg (246.7 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg 20190320_162454_1553117711396.jpg (253.5 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg 20190320_162508_1553117730619.jpg (244.2 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg 20190320_162743_1553117760837.jpg (231.1 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 20190320_162755_1553117778265.jpg (209.7 KB, 34 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 03-20-2019 at 10:06 PM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #45 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 10 and 11 30 hours

3-22-19

Start part 2 Rear End install

Not much to report. FFR still needs to send springs for shocks, the "eye" bolts for the upper and lower links, and the break calipers. So I could not actually finish this step but I mocked it up. I still need to drill the hole in the 4 inch tube frame to secure the pan hard and make sure everything is torqued to spec and all the anti seize and other thread treatment is done. That will be when I get all the parts and can finish it completely.

I did put the lower brackets on the rear end and the lower control arms and got the end some what in place. That's how it will sit until I get the parts to finish.

I will start on part 3 the driver side foot box and fire wall along with the pedal box and steering. However I need the bushing for the steering rack to complete this step too.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190322_141648_1553375606694.jpg (260.0 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg 20190322_141657_1553375630099.jpg (256.8 KB, 127 views)
jhargrove is online now  
post #46 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 12
32 hours

3-25-19

Alright! Started what I am calling Phase 3, pedal box and steering to include firewall and some foot box panels. Phase 2 the rear axle and Suspension is on hold until the parts come in from FFR.

I got the firewall and front panel of the driver foot box done. Not much but it took me 2 hours. Not extremely happy with my drilling and riveting but it's good for me. I will have to get better before I start on the rest of the engine bay.

Next the pedal box.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190325_204851_1553567400721.jpg (237.4 KB, 41 views)
jhargrove is online now  
post #47 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 04:44 PM
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Day 12
32 hours

3-25-19

Alright! Started what I am calling Phase 3, pedal box and steering to include firewall and some foot box panels. Phase 2 the rear axle and Suspension is on hold until the parts come in from FFR.

I got the firewall and front panel of the driver foot box done. Not much but it took me 2 hours. Not extremely happy with my drilling and riveting but it's good for me. I will have to get better before I start on the rest of the engine bay.

Next the pedal box.

Jason
Looks good. Are you installing heater or wipers? If so, you may need to remove the firewall to cut the hole for the heater before reinstalling it. Also, you may need to drill out the rivets in the lower inside portion of your DS footbox as the tabs for the inside wall fit under the front panel of your footbox and get drilled/riveted together.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is offline  
post #48 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Day 12
32 hours

3-25-19

Alright! Started what I am calling Phase 3, pedal box and steering to include firewall and some foot box panels. Phase 2 the rear axle and Suspension is on hold until the parts come in from FFR.

I got the firewall and front panel of the driver foot box done. Not much but it took me 2 hours. Not extremely happy with my drilling and riveting but it's good for me. I will have to get better before I start on the rest of the engine bay.

Next the pedal box.

Jason
Looks good. Are you installing heater or wipers? If so, you may need to remove the firewall to cut the hole for the heater before reinstalling it. Also, you may need to drill out the rivets in the lower inside portion of your DS footbox as the tabs for the inside wall fit under the front panel of your footbox and get drilled/riveted together.
Thanks

No heater. I originally ordered it but I like the precovered dash and glove box better. I also ordered wipers too then decided against. That is still debatable.

The firewall I left the top driver side un riveted to make sure everything fits together later. Yes the instructions say to seal and rivet the front I assume this is good. It says to put the left foot box side panel on now. I think they mean passenger side because driver side would make putting the pedal box in more difficult. So I held off on that. However it did say to leave the lower right section unsealed and without rivets to allow for the other sections to be placed. So I assume riveting the front should be good. There is room to slip the bottom plate in.

I thank you for talking about the throttle linkage. I am not doing many mods. But the Forte throttle linkage sounds like a good one!

Jason
jhargrove is online now  
post #49 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 06:56 PM
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Thanks

No heater. I originally ordered it but I like the precovered dash and glove box better. I also ordered wipers too then decided against. That is still debatable.

The firewall I left the top driver side un riveted to make sure everything fits together later. Yes the instructions say to seal and rivet the front I assume this is good. It says to put the left foot box side panel on now. I think they mean passenger side because driver side would make putting the pedal box in more difficult. So I held off on that. However it did say to leave the lower right section unsealed and without rivets to allow for the other sections to be placed. So I assume riveting the front should be good. There is room to slip the bottom plate in.

I thank you for talking about the throttle linkage. I am not doing many mods. But the Forte throttle linkage sounds like a good one!

Jason
if you look at the inside panel for the DS footbox, you'll notice that there's a tab that should overlap with the front panel towards the bottom. This is just below the horizontal bend in the front panel. The inside DS panel should fit under the front panel in this location, so you may need to drill away some rivets to get it in. I actually drilled and mocked up my entire DS and PS footboxes and cleco'd them before doing anything else.
JeffWhite thanked this.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is offline  
post #50 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Thanks

No heater. I originally ordered it but I like the precovered dash and glove box better. I also ordered wipers too then decided against. That is still debatable.

The firewall I left the top driver side un riveted to make sure everything fits together later. Yes the instructions say to seal and rivet the front I assume this is good. It says to put the left foot box side panel on now. I think they mean passenger side because driver side would make putting the pedal box in more difficult. So I held off on that. However it did say to leave the lower right section unsealed and without rivets to allow for the other sections to be placed. So I assume riveting the front should be good. There is room to slip the bottom plate in.

I thank you for talking about the throttle linkage. I am not doing many mods. But the Forte throttle linkage sounds like a good one!

Jason
if you look at the inside panel for the DS footbox, you'll notice that there's a tab that should overlap with the front panel towards the bottom. This is just below the horizontal bend in the front panel. The inside DS panel should fit under the front panel in this location, so you may need to drill away some rivets to get it in. I actually drilled and mocked up my entire DS and PS footboxes and cleco'd them before doing anything else.
Cool I will look into this. Thank you
jhargrove is online now  
post #51 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Ha Chewy your completely right on the panel I read the whole thing again. I thought it said one thing and it's what you said. I will have to cross that bridge when I get there again. Lol
jhargrove is online now  
post #52 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:45 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 194
I’d suggest getting some clecos and the pliers, and use them for every panel. Put everything together with clecos and make sure it fits before permanently attaching any panels.
I used 50 x 1/8 and 10 x 3/16.
Murd is offline  
post #53 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murd View Post
I’d suggest getting some clecos and the pliers, and use them for every panel. Put everything together with clecos and make sure it fits before permanently attaching any panels.
I used 50 x 1/8 and 10 x 3/16.
Thank you I have and did.
jhargrove is online now  
post #54 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:50 AM
Senior Member
 
egchewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dublin. OH
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murd View Post
I’d suggest getting some clecos and the pliers, and use them for every panel. Put everything together with clecos and make sure it fits before permanently attaching any panels.
I used 50 x 1/8 and 10 x 3/16.
Where am I supposed to be using the 3/16 rivets? So far the only place I've seen them need is attaching my breeze front battery box to the x member.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is offline  
post #55 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 10:31 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 5,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Where am I supposed to be using the 3/16 rivets? So far the only place I've seen them need is attaching my breeze front battery box to the x member.
You'll see them called out occasionally in the manual for mounting things. Like the brake line tabs, door limit straps, misc. electrical items, etc. Not a lot.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is online now  
post #56 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Day 13 and 14

4 of 36 total hours

3 -29-19

Pedal box

I only got the pedal box assembled and installed. As far as I can tell it's done good. Except I had another issue with bolt recognition. So I do not think the clutch quadrant stop is the right bolt also the one going through the middle of the clutch assembly. It's all tight and secure. Should be good. I will probally try to locate just the clutch stop and put a new one on. One of the bolts for the front bracket may not be right but it was the same size and good fit.

I still need to read more on the balance bar for the master cylinders so I can make sure that is adjusted properly.

I was going to do the accelerator pedal but I will hold off until Mon.

I noticed my body hanging from my ceiling is a little bent/ folded a little I might try to support that a little better not sure if I can do permanent damage to it?

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190329_153245_1553910915572.jpg (155.1 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg 20190329_202750_1553913453582.jpg (229.8 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg 20190329_202820_1553913486088.jpg (241.0 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg 20190329_202923_1553913538254.jpg (188.7 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg 20190329_202931_1553913569838.jpg (212.0 KB, 29 views)

Last edited by jhargrove; 03-30-2019 at 02:50 AM.
jhargrove is online now  
post #57 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 194
Jason,
Is your body hanging from the wheel well areas or from the very front and rear of the body?
Can’t help on the clutch quadrant, I have hydraulic.
I’d spend some time running brake and fuel lines before you get much further, also make sure you look up bench bleeding you master cylinders before trying to fill your brake system.
Murd is offline  
post #58 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:19 PM
FFCobra Craftsman
 
CraigS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Blacksburg, Va
Posts: 21,760
Check the manual for the clearances pointed by the red arrows. Yours look a bit large to me.
Wilwood balance 3 by craig stuard, on Flickr

FFR 5353K, 408W, TKO 500, 2015 IRS w/ 315 gear, Breeze QA1 DA coilovers front and rear, APE hardtop, Forte front swaybar
CraigS is online now  
post #59 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Check the manual for the clearances pointed by the red arrows. Yours look a bit large to me.
Wilwood balance 3 by craig stuard, on Flickr
I 100% agree. I still have to read about how to adjust all that and put it in tolerance. It was late when I got it on the chassis and came to that part.

Thank you

Jason

Thank you
jhargrove is online now  
post #60 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
jhargrove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Aurora, Il
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murd View Post
Jason,
Is your body hanging from the wheel well areas or from the very front and rear of the body?
Can’t help on the clutch quadrant, I have hydraulic.
I’d spend some time running brake and fuel lines before you get much further, also make sure you look up bench bleeding you master cylinders before trying to fill your brake system.
Ok I will look into it. I have just been following the instructions.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190310_155638_1553958418705.jpg (223.1 KB, 26 views)
jhargrove is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 shark92651 Ford Modular Engine Roadster Builds 193 Today 02:30 AM
FFR 9457 Roadster build thread sdonnel Factory Five Roadsters 23 05-31-2019 02:10 PM
Factory Five Cobra Build: Lessons Learned TacoJoe Factory Five Roadsters 10 04-07-2019 10:11 AM
Durham College students build FFR MkIV Cobra SunDude Canadian Region sponsored by Specialty Car Parts Canada 0 01-20-2019 12:22 PM
Keys FFR8013 build thread kgkeys Factory Five Roadsters 56 03-28-2017 04:21 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.