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post #211 of 263 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 03:19 PM
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I used a transmission jack. This worked perfect I ended up leaving it on the jack for awhile too.

I was able to install it by myself and line everything up to easily. The jack will make putting the transmission on the engine easier too.

I suggest renting or buying one if you have to do that again and or need to put a transmission on.

Jason

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post #212 of 263 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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yes, transmission jack would have been much easier that a floor jack.
we had the rear end on a jack with a person in each side but ended up using jack stands to hold it up. the rear end kept wanting to tip forward on the jack.
we got the DS control arm in the tabs and bolted no problem. the issue we had was on the PS. first, there was about a 1.5" distance that we had to account for to line up the arm w/ the tabs. then trying to get the bolt holes to line up was impossible. I ended up removing the bolt attaching the control arm to the axle, installing the arm to the frame, and then trying to reattach the arm back to the axle. we toyed with the idea of making a tapered bolt to hammer through the frame tabs to line things up, but then couldn't figure a way to get that bolt out since there's no room to hammer it back out from the inside of the frame.
anyway, everything worked out, just took a bit of thinking.

Not sure if I'll need a transmission jack for this build since it gets installed with the engine from above.


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #213 of 263 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 04:43 PM
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"Not sure if I'll need a transmission jack for this build since it gets installed with the engine from above.[/QUOTE]"

I was referring to attaching the transmission to the engine before you install the drivetran in the chassis.

I already tried once to put the transmission on my engine and I could not make everything work quite right with a regular Jack and it was very awkward. The transmission Jack is way more stable so that you can do it by yourself if you need to. Just what I encountered so far.

Jason

Last edited by jhargrove; 05-20-2019 at 06:26 PM.
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post #214 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Installed pan hard bar today. Hardware kit came with 4 0.375" spacers, 1 0.25"spacer, and 2 washers/ shims. I was able to get the PS attached to the shock mount as described in the manual with a shim on the rear side, and one 0.25"spacer and 0.375"x2 on the front. On the DS mount, I was only able to fit 0.375"x2 spacers on the front. There's no way to get the other shim in even with spreading the tabs. Any problems here?

Also drilled holes in DS footbox wall for brake lines. Apparently bought wrong grommets for this.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #215 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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Working on gas tank tonight. Got the vent, fuel level sender, and filler neck gasket installed. Lubed up the o ring for the sender unit with some white lithium grease as recommended on another thread to prevent tearing of the o ring and subsequent leaking. Still need to purchase an in-tank fuel pump and install that before running fuel and return lines. Tank straps installed on the rear as well. The openings of the straps needed to be reshaped a bit to accept the bolt. I ended up tapping it with a 4 lb sledge until the opening became more round, rather than tear drop shaped. I also included pics of panhard bar. I was only able to fit 0.375"x2 spacers in front on the DS mount. There was no way the extra shim would have fit on the rear side of the bar.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #216 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 11:59 AM
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That bar doesn't look right to me (but I know next to nothing about the 3-link). Wouldn't the bracket press up against the side of the rod end & prevent it from moving the way it should? Seems like you should have a spacer on each side...

Hopefully someone with actual knowledge will weigh in.


John

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post #217 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 12:21 PM
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A shim one each side of the rod end. Ford recommends engine oil on the o-rings, use the same for the fill tube ring.
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post #218 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:16 PM
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As Rich said you need to have a spacer on each side rather than both on the same side. Looking at the photo it appears that you have the mount squeezed in a great deal...if you spread it when you reorient the spacers you might be able to fit the other shim in.

Jeff

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post #219 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
As Rich said you need to have a spacer on each side rather than both on the same side. Looking at the photo it appears that you have the mount squeezed in a great deal...if you spread it when you reorient the spacers you might be able to fit the other shim in.

Jeff
I had to spread it to initially get the spacers in. I don't think i'd be able spread it enough to get a shim in as well, at least not without really deforming the tabs. I'll reposition the spacers so that there's one on either side of the bar. on the opposite side (PS), I followed the manual and put all the spacers on the front (0.375" x2 and 0.25"x1) with a washer/shim on the rear side of the bar. I'm assuming this is correct, right?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #220 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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fuel system delivery

starting to consider fuel system at this point.
planning on using intank pump and either Holley or FiTech EFI.
I'm running a 289 K code SBF engine, so ~300hp.
after doing some research, i'll likely get a stock fuel pump bracket for my gas tank and either a 155-190LPH pump. Seems like enough for my engine requirements.
Do I need a specific fuel filter before my EFI or will the stock filter provided in complete kit be sufficient?


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1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #221 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
...Do I need a specific fuel filter before my EFI or will the stock filter provided in complete kit be sufficient?
Read the documentation for the two EFI systems under consideration; they will each have a spec (my Holley Terminator requires a 10u filter). Then compare the spec to the one for your fuel filter (for my kit, F5 provided a 15u filter). Then you'll know.

If you find that you have to replace the filter, then you have some choices based on your fuel lines. If you use the 5/16" feed and 1/4" return, you can buy a filter with 5/16" in/out quick connects & use the F5-provided hose & fittings. If you upgrade the hard lines to 3/8" feed & return (in anticipation of later upgrading the motor such that it needs them), you have more components to buy. I recommend calling Mark at Breeze Automotive & discussing your options if you go the 3/8" route. (You'll probably want to call him any way when you start figuring out the engine compartment plumbing & how to get from your hard lines to AN6 soft lines.)

For more ideas (& the long version of this story), take a look at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...nk-fuel-system.


John

NOTE: The Wix 33097 is a 10u filter with 5/16" in/out quick connects.

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post #222 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Back from vaca and finally getting brake reservoirs buttoned up. I was waiting on my grommets to arrive. If anyone is wondering what size, make sure you get the ones that are 1/4" thick to get through the thick footbox wall. Reinstalled reservoir bracket. Placed a split piece of fuel line to protect hard brake lines from touching the bolts/ nuts from my bracket. Received my Fitech EFI while I was gone too. Rear brake calipers coming tomorrow. I'll post under My previous post more additional details. Does anyone know the supplied fuel filter micron size that comes with the complete kit?
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box

Last edited by egchewy; 06-14-2019 at 12:49 AM.
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post #223 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Rear caliper update

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Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
I also emailed Jay from FFR. My rear calipers have been on back order since I received my kit in Jan. Apparently, the vendor they were working with who provided the rear calipers for the rear brake kit (not wilwood) was supposed to have a shipment in at the end of 2018. They missed that shipment and have stopped taking FFR's phone calls. FFR is working with a new vendor now and they hope to have a product in the next month or so. The problem is that they need to make the brackets fit both 11.65" and 13" rotors, so once they get a sample caliper in, they need a couple of months to mock up new brackets and manufacture them. So they offered me a few options: 1) wait on new calipers and brackets to arrive, 2) send out 87-88' Tbird turbo couple calipers and brackets, but I would need to grind off the part of the bracket that interferes w/ the rotors, or 3) get a full refund on the rear brake kit and source my own rear calipers.

Any thoughts/suggestions? I wasn't sure how the FFR rear brake kit calipers were different from the Tbird calipers. Do the pads sent to me fit ? Do the brackets fit the existing caliper axle brackets?
Update in rear calipers. Got a call for Jay this week. New calipers are still months away. They've received prototypes but still months away from production of new castings. FFR has a number of reconditioned T bird calipers that they are sending out to those waiting, but only 20pair or so. I've elected to go forward with these as I'm waiting on these before finalizing rear brake lines. I'm assuming you'll get a call if you've been waiting to give you the option.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #224 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Painting rear calipers and stripping paint off engine block. So many nooks and crannies on the engine. Pretty neat to see the original casting marks from 50+ yrs ago.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #225 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
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Pretty neat to see the original casting marks from 50+ yrs ago.
That's very cool. I just figured out how to get the Ford 5.0 HO badge off the top of the intake manifold so I could access what I assumed were two hidden bolts. They were there. My sons find the engine tear down at least as interesting as I do. We haven't cleaned off enough junk to find the casting marks yet - it's still covered with half eaten nuts and shed snake skin, the later of which we took as a good omen.

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post #226 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:56 PM
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Good job Chewy. If I can help at all let me know. I may be able to relay some of my lessons learned. As far as I can tell SBF is all relatively the same until the intake.

The tear down process for me was the most educational thing I did. Go slow take pics. Learn.

Here is a before and after of my engine build.

DSS Racing I thought was a great vender and will help you through any process. They will help you buy anything you need. They helped me plan the whole engine out
They made sure what I was doing all worked together and made sense for my application. They are out of St. Charles il but there business is based on mail order. They specialize in Mustangs they are well known.

Jason
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post #227 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:35 PM
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Wow

That's a great looking engine Jason! Gives me hope for the old 302 I've started in on. She's in need of some cosmetic repair, but I'm hopeful that the internals are good.

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post #228 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Engine tear down scheduled for next weekend. Planning on LCS this weekend with a friend to get some ideas and to meet many of the people who've helped me along the way. Look for me and my buddy in his bright blue (Porsche Mexico blue) cobra with red fender stripes (sans hood stripes).

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #229 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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Need help with rear brake pads. Are these wires/ springs supposed to push through the caliper and snap in place? I can't see how you can get both wires through the gap in the caliper. I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the second pad in. Can I just remove the wire?
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #230 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 12:08 PM
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Don't cut the wires. They're actually springs that go inside the brake housing & keep the pads from moving around vertically. You want both springs inside the housing, and the opposite end of the pad hooks under some tabs on the housing. It takes some fiddling, but you'll get it.


John

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Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #231 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Don't cut the wires. They're actually springs that go inside the brake housing & keep the pads from moving around vertically. You want both springs inside the housing, and the opposite end of the pad hooks under some tabs on the housing. It takes some fiddling, but you'll get it.


John
I finally figured it out this morning before work. I figured out that you don't need the metal clips that come with the calipers. the metal wires/springs act as the tension that holds everything in place.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #232 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
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Engine tear down scheduled for next weekend. Planning on LCS this weekend with a friend to get some ideas and to meet many of the people who've helped me along the way. Look for me and my buddy in his bright blue (Porsche Mexico blue) cobra with red fender stripes (sans hood stripes).
Getting ready to head out, see you soon!

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post #233 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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Rear calipers are in finally. Painted, reassembled, and attached. No shims needed for my brakes. Bent rear hard brake line as well. Need to buy another shorter length to bring hard lines from DS to PS. Ordering fuel pump, fittings, and filter from Forte soon as well as clutch.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #234 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
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Rear calipers are in finally. Painted, reassembled, and attached. No shims needed for my brakes. Bent rear hard brake line as well. Need to buy another shorter length to bring hard lines from DS to PS. Ordering fuel pump, fittings, and filter from Forte soon as well as clutch.
Awesome!
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post #235 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 12:00 PM
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A little advice, get rid of the brake line with all the loops in it. It's just a place for air bubbles to get trapped and make bleeding the brakes a pain. Always make the lines the correct length, looks better and less of a problem.
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post #236 of 263 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Engine tear down today! I received this engine from a buddy of mine who bought it for his build but decided to go another direction. It's a 1966 289 HiPo 30 over that was reportedly rebuilt by a previous owner. The engine has been sitting for at least 5 yrs by my and my friend's estimate. Not well versed on engines, so I had another friend help me take it apart to look at everything and to replace all the gaskets. We found all new parts, roller rockers, and clean cylinders without any rust or scale. I'm working on cleaning all surfaces and going to get the heads checked at a machine shop as some of the rocker springs were sitting compressed all this time.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #237 of 263 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 11:27 AM
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The engine looks great.

FFR 5353K, 408W, TKO 500, 2015 IRS w/ 315 gear, Breeze QA1 DA coilovers front and rear, APE hardtop, Forte front swaybar
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post #238 of 263 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:51 PM
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Any parts you might need let me know. They are just sitting here. Including working heads. Everything just needs cleaned.
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post #239 of 263 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 02:57 PM
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Clearly that engine has never been fired. Since neither you nor the friend you got it from have no first hand experience with it or knowledge the build I would be inclined to take it all the way apart, check all measurements, verify piston to valve, etc. then if it all looks good reassemble it.

Good luck and keep us updated!

Jeff

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post #240 of 263 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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my friend who's helping me take it apart has pretty extensive engine and racing knowledge. he's more of a chevy guy, but i'll forgive him

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Clearly that engine has never been fired. Since neither you nor the friend you got it from have no first hand experience with it or knowledge the build I would be inclined to take it all the way apart, check all measurements, verify piston to valve, etc. then if it all looks good reassemble it.

Good luck and keep us updated!

Jeff

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
egchewy is online now  
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