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post #181 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Removing the body? What makes you think you'd need to remove the body to replace fluid? As Rich said you could simply use a flat plate attached to the side of the tubing for mounting the reservoirs like I'm showing here:



Keep the top of the caps at or below the top of the square tube and you'll be good.

Jeff
Thanks
I've seen pics where it looks like part of the reservoir cap sits under the body and wanted to make sure that a bleeder cap wouldn't get in the way.
I haven't seen many Cobras in person and hope to see plenty at LCS this year to get some ideas and pointers on my build.


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
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RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #182 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 04:06 PM
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Thank you from my end too. All very valuable info I will use all this. Thank you

Chewy great questions

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post #183 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 08:20 PM
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...hope to see plenty at LCS this year to get some ideas and pointers on my build.
You will! Be sure to look me up and introduce yourself. I'll be there (for the 17th time!) from Thursday on and have been asked to work the FFR display again this year so shouldn't be hard to find. See you there

Jeff

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post #184 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 11:01 AM
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See you at LCS!

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post #185 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Building rear shocks. One was at the softest (zero) setting, the other was at the first setting. I guess it pays off to check. Any issues if the reset button doesn't pop back up on its own? Will it likely pop on its own later?
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #186 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 06:06 PM
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...I guess it pays off to check. Any issues if the reset button doesn't pop back up on its own? Will it likely pop on its own later?
Yep, I've unboxed some with random settings which is why I always advise to check them. The button needs to pop up into the detent. Twist the shaft back and forth a few degrees both directions after releasing it and it should come into position.

Jeff
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post #187 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Yep, I've unboxed some with random settings which is why I always advise to check them. The button needs to pop up into the detent. Twist the shaft back and forth a few degrees both directions after releasing it and it should come into position.

Jeff
Maybe I missed it or my memory is bad, but I don't remember the "button" on the shocks on my build. Can you post a picture of the "button"?

Thanks,

Steve

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post #188 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Take off the dust cap on the end with the foam bumper. Button is under the cap
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #189 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 12:55 AM
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I always remove the body when I change my blinker fluid.
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post #190 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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I always remove the body when I change my blinker fluid.
Haha😂


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #191 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Yep, I've unboxed some with random settings which is why I always advise to check them. The button needs to pop up into the detent. Twist the shaft back and forth a few degrees both directions after releasing it and it should come into position.

Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Take off the dust cap on the end with the foam bumper. Button is under the cap
Thanks!! I missed that during my build!

Any suggestion for settings? Looks like there are 4 possibilities.

Steve

FFR #8305
IRS, Levy Stage 4 347
Levy Super Alloy T5 Trans
EFI, 3.27 Rear, Wilwood Brakes
17x9" Front; 17x10.5" Rear Halibrand Wheels
255/40R17 Front; 315/35R17 Rear

Paint - Ford Magnetic Metallic Gray (J7) with Black Stripes
Painted by "da Bat"

Complete Kit Delivered 05/15/2014
Ordered Engine / Trans 09/09/2014
Got Engine on 08/28/2015
Got Trans on 11/20/2015
First Start on 08/14/2016
First Go-Kart 11/6/2016
Body On 2/3/2017
Titled and Registered 4/14/2017 as a 1965!!
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post #192 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swwebb10 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Yep, I've unboxed some with random settings which is why I always advise to check them. The button needs to pop up into the detent. Twist the shaft back and forth a few degrees both directions after releasing it and it should come into position.

Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Take off the dust cap on the end with the foam bumper. Button is under the cap
Thanks!! I missed that during my build!

Any suggestion for settings? Looks like there are 4 possibilities.
Softest setting, all the was counterclockwise

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #193 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
...I guess it pays off to check. Any issues if the reset button doesn't pop back up on its own? Will it likely pop on its own later?
Yep, I've unboxed some with random settings which is why I always advise to check them. The button needs to pop up into the detent. Twist the shaft back and forth a few degrees both directions after releasing it and it should come into position.

Jeff
Any suggestions if the button won't come back up, even after rotating it through all the possible settings?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #194 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Back at it. Added 1q rear end fluid and friction additive. Will top fluid off once I get it installed through fill hole. Finished building rear shocks. I was able to get my reset button to pop back up using a small pick. Sanded and repainted part of rear end with KBS where paint had blistered. Tried installing my bracket I made for my CNC reservoirs. Initially riveted it to the underside of the 3/4 tube. Found out the rivets weren't strong enough and bracket was wobbly as I was installing the reservoirs. Resorted to cutting off the tab and will plan to mount on the inside of the tube with rivnuts.

Anyone have a suggestion on which rivnut tool to get and what size I should consider using here? Lots of options out there on the interweb 😜
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File Type: jpg 20190511_084729_1557980326812.jpg (239.9 KB, 22 views)

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #195 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:23 AM
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What size rivets did you try using?
I actually just ordered this, arrived yesterday. Can't comment on it yet but the reviews are pretty good and it includes rivnuts. There are 2 styles of rivnut guns, do you have enough room underneath that tube to use the vertical style gun? Or would you be better off with a right angle gun?
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Cu3CbQ2RGWWP

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GTM #304 525hp LPE LS3
2000 C5 Coupe 489HP LPE LS1
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post #196 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:11 PM
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Making some progress!!

I was planning on using some small rivets on the inside. Not sure now. I will at least try.

Jason
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post #197 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:28 PM
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Make it easy on yourself. Drill all the way through the 3/4x3/4 and use a 10-32 SS machine screw and a nylock nut on the back side. Riv nuts can work OK but when you try to remove a bolt someday, and the rivnut spins in the hole.....and you have to resort to cutting things....then rivnuts don't seem such a great answer.

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post #198 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What size rivets did you try using?
I actually just ordered this, arrived yesterday. Can't comment on it yet but the reviews are pretty good and it includes rivnuts. There are 2 styles of rivnut guns, do you have enough room underneath that tube to use the vertical style gun? Or would you be better off with a right angle gun?
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Cu3CbQ2RGWWP
3/16"rivets. Apparently not strong enough. I ended up cutting the small tab off and will mount on the inside of the 3/4 tube.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #199 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Make it easy on yourself. Drill all the way through the 3/4x3/4 and use a 10-32 SS machine screw and a nylock nut on the back side. Riv nuts can work OK but when you try to remove a bolt someday, and the rivnut spins in the hole.....and you have to resort to cutting things....then rivnuts don't seem such a great answer.

I currently have my front hard brake lines on the outside of the 3/4 tube, otherwise it sounds like a good idea. Do you recommend rerouting the hard line?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #200 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
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What size rivets did you try using?
I actually just ordered this, arrived yesterday. Can't comment on it yet but the reviews are pretty good and it includes rivnuts. There are 2 styles of rivnut guns, do you have enough room underneath that tube to use the vertical style gun? Or would you be better off with a right angle gun?
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Cu3CbQ2RGWWP
Thats a great tool. You will not be dissatisfied.
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post #201 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:45 AM
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Egchewy
I just ran across this thread. I cant keep up with these forums. I mostly cruise the other forum to keep things simple on my end.

Great thread. Thanks for sharing.
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post #202 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ended up cutting tab off my bracket and attaching it to the inside of the 3/4 tube. Original holes drilled for the reservoir ended up not working, leaving the caps off the reservoirs just above the tube. I ended up flipping the mount over, using a couple of the original holes and drilling 2 more. As recommended, I drilled through and through the 3/4 tube and secured it with nuts. I originally wanted to put 3 bolts in but was worried about my brake lines being in the way and just settled on 2. Plenty strong and stable. I did snap a bolt trying to secure the reservoir and will need to get a new one. All hardware was leftover from the extra stuff that came with the pedal box so it cost nothing except my time to refabricate the bracket.

Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring. 20190517_113717_1558109271139.jpg
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #203 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 08:20 PM
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Don't let that brake line rub against the nut. If you need to, use a piece of rubber fuel line to wrap around the brake line between it and the nut (and add that item to your annual maintenance checklist). If it were me, I'd reroute the brake line to under the 3/4" tube.

Yes, the hole in the front of the foot box is for wiring.


John

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Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #204 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
Don't let that brake line rub against the nut. If you need to, use a piece of rubber fuel line to wrap around the brake line between it and the nut (and add that item to your annual maintenance checklist). If it were me, I'd reroute the brake line to under the 3/4" tube.

Yes, the hole in the front of the foot box is for wiring.


John
thanks for the input. there's a gap there that's not shown in the pic. i'll wrap the brake line with a piece of fuel line as you recommended.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #205 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 02:11 PM
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Chewy said

"Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring."

I was nervous about going through the front too. I was thinking side. I'm sure you can make that nice. I thought too the engine is going to be right there also not sure if that was going to be a factor.

I went through the front using the plastic connector.

I got a good titanium impact ready 1/2 bit. I used a regular drill until it started to break through.

If you don't have a handle on the drill that thing going to rip your hand off at that point and bust your knuckles into that new bracket you just made. Plus bend you thumb on the other hand. I have the cuts and bruise to account for it. Use gloves and glasses.

I stopped. Filed out some and used a impact drill to finish opening that all up. The connectors went in perfect. It's a tight fit on the other side to tighten everything.

I left slack in the tubes to make sure I can push them away. Think about how your going to access the hose clamps and position them so you can get to them after the car is built.

Jason
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post #206 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargrove View Post
Chewy said

"Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring."

I was nervous about going through the front too. I was thinking side. I'm sure you can make that nice. I thought too the engine is going to be right there also not sure if that was going to be a factor.

I went through the front using the plastic connector.

I got a good titanium impact ready 1/2 bit. I used a regular drill until it started to break through.

If you don't have a handle on the drill that thing going to rip your hand off at that point and bust your knuckles into that new bracket you just made. Plus bend you thumb on the other hand. I have the cuts and bruise to account for it. Use gloves and glasses.

I stopped. Filed out some and used a impact drill to finish opening that all up. The connectors went in perfect. It's a tight fit on the other side to tighten everything.

I left slack in the tubes to make sure I can push them away. Think about how your going to access the hose clamps and position them so you can get to them after the car is built.

Jason
Plastic connector?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #207 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 09:03 PM
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"Plastic connector"

Yes bulkhead fitting
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Last edited by jhargrove; 05-18-2019 at 09:16 PM.
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post #208 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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It took 4 sets of hands and 2 hours, but we finally got the rear end on. We were able to get one side in, but the other control arm just wouldn't line up to get the bolt on. It almost seemed like we needed to twist the control arm a bit in the tab to line it up. I ended up loosening the bolts holding the control arms to the axle and playing with the height with a jack to finally line up the holes with the bushing. We also installed the upper link, reinstalled the pan hard bar, and rear shocks. I'm missing the nut to attach the bolt from the panhard to the tube, so another trip to the hardware store. Starting to look like a car!
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #209 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 12:20 AM
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Awesome! Congratulations I thought that was a big step for me
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post #210 of 260 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:40 AM
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Yeah that rear axle install is a tough one. It's awkward at best and that thing is heavy enough I always think what parts of me could get pinched or chopped if it got away. It doesn't balance worth a d--n on the floor jack pad does it?

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