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post #121 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John
good to know.
i guess it depends on the angle you have the gas pedal set to. There's a "gear" that allows you to adjust the angle of the pedal, but I can see how it might slip under one of the cross members in the pedal box leaving the throttle wide open. I'll play around with it to see if I need to cut the tip off the upper end of the pedal. why couldn't I just use one of the other drilled holes instead of drilling a 4th hole?


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #122 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:31 PM
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Gas pedal and heater worked on tonight. My accelerator cable doesn't have a threaded end to accept a nut. Thoughts? The template for the heater is also off, needing to be moved by about 1/4" in superior and lateral directions. The blue marker is the ideal location of the holes while the black shows the holes from the template.
I had the same problem initially. Did you print the template off at 100%? The default on my printer was about 91% if I remember in that it fit the figure to the page size. It makes a difference!!


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post #123 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John
good to know.
i guess it depends on the angle you have the gas pedal set to. There's a "gear" that allows you to adjust the angle of the pedal, but I can see how it might slip under one of the cross members in the pedal box leaving the throttle wide open. I'll play around with it to see if I need to cut the tip off the upper end of the pedal. why couldn't I just use one of the other drilled holes instead of drilling a 4th hole?
Please let us know. I would like to know if they fixed it.
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post #124 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 10:29 PM
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I am going to go find the items I need to start to asymblem the pedal box. Watch the videos sbf read the directions. Maybe think about actually putting something together. Lol
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post #125 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by swwebb10 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Gas pedal and heater worked on tonight. My accelerator cable doesn't have a threaded end to accept a nut. Thoughts? The template for the heater is also off, needing to be moved by about 1/4" in superior and lateral directions. The blue marker is the ideal location of the holes while the black shows the holes from the template.
I had the same problem initially. Did you print the template off at 100%? The default on my printer was about 91% if I remember in that it fit the figure to the page size. It makes a difference!!
I made sure to print at 100%after reading other's comments. I think they must have upgraded the heater or vintage air may have changed their design. The holes for the screws and the heater otherwise line up, suggesting it's not a scale issue.

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1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
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RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #126 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John
Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John
good to know.
i guess it depends on the angle you have the gas pedal set to. There's a "gear" that allows you to adjust the angle of the pedal, but I can see how it might slip under one of the cross members in the pedal box leaving the throttle wide open. I'll play around with it to see if I need to cut the tip off the upper end of the pedal. why couldn't I just use one of the other drilled holes instead of drilling a 4th hole?
Ok. Just checked pedal clearance. Looks like there's at least 1/4" interference with the 3/4" cross member. I was pushing pretty firmly on the pedal and don't think there's any way it'll slip under the bar and get stuck. I could also straighten the angle a bit on the pedal to create more interference or place a bolt through the crossmember so the pedal will hit it earlier. Any thoughts?
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #127 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Attached firewall tonight. Dry fit the DS footbox upper panels. I had to drill out some rivets and pull away some silicone to get things to fit again. Big props to those who powder coat or polish their aluminum panels because it's hard as hell not to scratch them when putting them back together. I'm using rustoleum hammered paint so I can easily touch up scratches later. I also checked my gas pedal clearance. I have decent interference with the crossmember and don't think it could get stuck under the bar, leaving the throttle stuck in wide open position. The current angle set on my gas pedal has the top hole even with the hole in the panel for the throttle cable when the pedal is even with the brake pedal.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #128 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Ok. Just checked pedal clearance. Looks like there's at least 1/4" interference with the 3/4" cross member. I was pushing pretty firmly on the pedal and don't think there's any way it'll slip under the bar and get stuck. I could also straighten the angle a bit on the pedal to create more interference or place a bolt through the crossmember so the pedal will hit it earlier. Any thoughts?
Your leg can generate a surprising amount of force. If it were mine, I'd trim the pedal. Or get the Russ Thompson pedal (which is what I actually did).


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post #129 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:14 PM
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You'll need to eventually incorporate a throttle stop so that the pedal reaches a solid mechanical limit when the throttle blade is at WOT (if the pedal travels farther than the blade you'll likely break or disengage the cable). When you do this you will probably find that interference between the pedal arm and frame member is a non-issue.

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post #130 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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You'll need to eventually incorporate a throttle stop so that the pedal reaches a solid mechanical limit when the throttle blade is at WOT (if the pedal travels farther than the blade you'll likely break or disengage the cable). When you do this you will probably find that interference between the pedal arm and frame member is a non-issue.

Jeff
What should be stopping the travel of the pedal? The front wall of the footbox or the cross member?
Currently the angle I have set up on the pedal, the top part of the pedal hits the cross member before the pedal hits the front wall of the footbox, but not by much.
I could bolt/weld a piece of steel on the cross member to ensure that there's no way the top of the pedal lever slips under the cross member. I wasn't sure if the pedal lever was supposed to be able to travel under the cross member or not.


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #131 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
You'll need to eventually incorporate a throttle stop so that the pedal reaches a solid mechanical limit when the throttle blade is at WOT (if the pedal travels farther than the blade you'll likely break or disengage the cable). When you do this you will probably find that interference between the pedal arm and frame member is a non-issue.

Jeff
Good info. Like I said even in the class they said to cut off the top. Which I'm sure is fine but I was a little surprised that there was that big of a safety issue. Thank you for responding to this.

Jason
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post #132 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Drilling all the trunk panels today. Any reason I can't rivet these panels before installing the rear end? Not sure if you had better access to anything with the panels off.
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File Type: jpg 20190329_155148_1553895490802.jpg (239.8 KB, 31 views)
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #133 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:31 PM
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Like you I drilled all of the trunk panels but waited until I had my IRS installed before riveting them.
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post #134 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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Breeze front battery box installed but not without difficulty. X member and the 4"tube behind it are not parallel as the instructions point out. I had to use 5 washers provided to fill the gap on the inside of the box. The hardest part was trying to transfer the hole location given this fractional difference from the gap. I initially used the distance between the holes of the box to drill the holes in the 4"tube and tapped them but realized that it needed to be slightly wider given the gap. The screw that was supposed to go in this hole ended up coming in at a slight angle and kept cross threading. I ended up drilling out the inside hole in the box so it was a bit larger, allowing the screw to go in perpendicularly. Fastening the outside screw first helps stabilize the entire box. The rivets provided in this kit are no joke. I could barely pop them with my hand rivet tool.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #135 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:04 PM
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I like to use a carraige bolt and two nuts for a stop. That allows you to adjust the stop to exactly where it is needed.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/carriage-bo...BoCYeQQAvD_BwE

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post #136 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:18 PM
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Drilling all the trunk panels today. Any reason I can't rivet these panels before installing the rear end? Not sure if you had better access to anything with the panels off.
Resist the urge to permanently rivet any panels until you absolutely have to in order to get to the next step. There will be all kinds of things you want access to that they will get in the way of.
Taking the advice of many on here I drilled all mine at the same time and put it together with clecos. It’s also nice to make all your metal drilling mess at once and then be done with it.
You should basically have a running driving go cart before you start riveting all but a couple nessescary panels.
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post #137 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I like to use a carraige bolt and two nuts for a stop. That allows you to adjust the stop to exactly where it is needed.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/carriage-bo...BoCYeQQAvD_BwE
I'm assuming you're installing the bolt on the 3/4" crossmember in the pedal box, so that the top of the gas pedal lever hits the bolt, correct?
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post #138 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 02:57 PM
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Resist the urge to permanently rivet any panels until you absolutely have to in order to get to the next step. There will be all kinds of things you want access to that they will get in the way of.
Taking the advice of many on here I drilled all mine at the same time and put it together with clecos. It’s also nice to make all your metal drilling mess at once and then be done with it.
If you don't want to tie up clecos for months (plus they stick out and get in the way), just put as few rivets in as you have to to hold things in place, drill them out when you're ready to silicone and permanently rivet.
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post #139 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Resist the urge to permanently rivet any panels until you absolutely have to in order to get to the next step. There will be all kinds of things you want access to that they will get in the way of.
Taking the advice of many on here I drilled all mine at the same time and put it together with clecos. It’s also nice to make all your metal drilling mess at once and then be done with it.
If you don't want to tie up clecos for months (plus they stick out and get in the way), just put as few rivets in as you have to to hold things in place, drill them out when you're ready to silicone and permanently rivet.
Great idea. I was just contemplating buying more clecos

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #140 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 07:08 PM
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I'm assuming you're installing the bolt on the 3/4" crossmember in the pedal box, so that the top of the gas pedal lever hits the bolt, correct?
I can't really help w/ exact location. My old MkII may be different in that area and my gas pedal is definitely different. I hope someone else w/ a matching car/pedal can help.

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post #141 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Drilled and riveted DS cockpit. I've read that I should do this before running fuel and brake lines to avoid accidentally drilling into one. Also received the correct throttle cable from FF and installed it. I think I'll use this instead of a mechanical linkage for now. My mind could change though.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #142 of 261 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 01:43 PM
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I'm assuming you're installing the bolt on the 3/4" crossmember in the pedal box, so that the top of the gas pedal lever hits the bolt, correct?
NO the bolt should contact the pedal, not the arm. You don't want use the arm to stop the amount of force you can apply with your leg. Reread Jeff's and John's comments.
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post #143 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'm assuming you're installing the bolt on the 3/4" crossmember in the pedal box, so that the top of the gas pedal lever hits the bolt, correct?
NO the bolt should contact the pedal, not the arm. You don't want use the arm to stop the amount of force you can apply with your leg. Reread Jeff's and John's comments.
Roger that. I'll likely fashion a carriage bolt stop under the gas pedal. I might get the RT throttle pedal as this would eliminate any issues with the cross member and also allow me to have more flexibility on location. The new clutch quadrant assembly has a pretty stout pedal stop incorporated into the pedal box. Would anyone suggest putting an additional stop in the front footbox wall?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #144 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Mocking up cockpit panels. My rear panel doesn't seem to want to touch the cross bar. I'll need to play around to see what's interfering
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #145 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 09:23 PM
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THe RT pedal is a really great design. What I like most is that where it attaches to the frame is relatively easily adjusted. When you get closer to driving it is really nice to be able to get the gas pedal in exactly the most comfortable position.

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post #146 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Here are some pics of my passenger side cockpit. You can see there's a bit of a distance between the rear wall and the 3/4"tube. Can anyone spot what's wrong? I can get the wall to flex and touch the bar but wasn't sure if this was normal. It also tends to bow out the mid portion of the wall if I do so
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File Type: jpg 20190405_190113_1554505839896.jpg (216.7 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg 20190405_190120_1554505855140.jpg (224.5 KB, 29 views)

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #147 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 11:21 PM
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Probably some high welds in the corners or on the ends of the tubing.
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post #148 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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Cockpit aluminum drilled. Starting on hard brake lines in front. She's not the prettiest girl at the dance, but she'll do. Feel free to critique.
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File Type: jpg 20190411_001121_1554956462203.jpg (238.4 KB, 36 views)

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #149 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Decided to rework brake lines so they wouldn't be crossed up coming out of the master cylinders. Happier with the bends as well.
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File Type: jpg 20190413_223932_1555210437184.jpg (236.8 KB, 33 views)

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #150 of 261 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:26 AM
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