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post #91 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 12:07 PM
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Progress tonight. Installed master cylinders. I was looking at the balance bar instructions. Will the variance in travel of each piston be seen only once the system is closed and filled with fluid? Right now with the system open, the balance bar doesn't seem to change position regardless of the amount of pedal pressure applied. I started installing PS footbox panels too, taking time to make some cardboard templates for insulation later.
Yes exactly correct. Set the balance bar so there is the same amount sticking out of both sides. Set the pushrod lengths so the balance bar is at 90 deg to the push rods when the pedal is at rest. And so there is a tiny bit of free play in both push rods pedal at rest. this will be close enough to be able to drive it until the pads bed in and then you can work on front to rear balance. BTW leave the top and outside foot box panels off until the very last time the body goes on.


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post #92 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Progress tonight. Installed master cylinders. I was looking at the balance bar instructions. Will the variance in travel of each piston be seen only once the system is closed and filled with fluid? Right now with the system open, the balance bar doesn't seem to change position regardless of the amount of pedal pressure applied. I started installing PS footbox panels too, taking time to make some cardboard templates for insulation later.
Yes exactly correct. Set the balance bar so there is the same amount sticking out of both sides. Set the pushrod lengths so the balance bar is at 90 deg to the push rods when the pedal is at rest. And so there is a tiny bit of free play in both push rods pedal at rest. this will be close enough to be able to drive it until the pads bed in and then you can work on front to rear balance. BTW leave the top and outside foot box panels off until the very last time the body goes on.
Thanks. Do you recommend having separate fluid reservoirs for each piston? I'm seeing lots of CNC triple reservoir set ups but am not running hydraulic clutch, so maybe a double reservoir set up.


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #93 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 10:51 PM
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I'm using the CNC triple reservoir setup. If you decide to go with the CNC double check carshopincdotcom they have very good prices, also good to buy their pressure bleeder cap it's very helpful in bleeding your brakes. Per CNC do not use more than 5 psi for bleeding. Many use a bicycle pump.
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post #94 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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I'm using the CNC triple reservoir setup. If you decide to go with the CNC double check carshopincdotcom they have very good prices, also good to buy their pressure bleeder cap it's very helpful in bleeding your brakes. Per CNC do not use more than 5 psi for bleeding. Many use a bicycle pump.
JR
Thanks for the advice. I'll check out the site

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #95 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 12:00 PM
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Although the FFR engineers say the single reservoir and Y hose is adequate, I still prefer two reservoirs.

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post #96 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 12:04 PM
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I'm with Craig. Definitely get a second reservoir. CNC's part number is 1482.


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post #97 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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I'm with Craig. Definitely get a second reservoir. CNC's part number is 1482.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Although the FFR engineers say the single reservoir and Y hose is adequate, I still prefer two reservoirs.
anyone have a situation or close call where a single reservoir led to loss of both front and rear brakes?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #98 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 07:01 PM
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anyone have a situation or close call where a single reservoir led to loss of both front and rear brakes?
The single reservoir plus volume of the hoses allows for two or three? maybe more? pedal applications in the event of a total leak on one end. That said I tend to like the extra measure of having dual, separate reservoirs. I know there have been at least two occasions where I've nursed a daily driver home on one end after having a line blow out (thanks to General Motors use of steel lines with a 4-5 year lifespan in their early 2000s pickups).

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post #99 of 276 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 07:08 PM
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I am with the rest of the folks on here on the addtional reservoir. I am running the CNC triple because I have a hydraulic clutch. The dual CNC would work great.

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post #100 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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First post in some time. I was in Cancun last week enjoying a kids free vacation. Back to the cold and back to the grind. I did receive my RT drop trunk kit while I was gone and assembled it today. I had to remark the lines where the frame hit the aluminum as it was a bit off. I need to cut the original trunk panel next. I don't have a rear end yet. Any reason I couldn't do the trunk panels and fuel tank first?

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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #101 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 11:41 AM
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If you install the panhard bracket to the frame that will give you all you need to know.
https://www.factoryfive.com/gallerie...ar-suspension/
The rearmost part of the axle, the banana bracket, is about 1/2 inch ahead of the diagonal bar of the mount.

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post #102 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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If you install the panhard bracket to the frame that will give you all you need to know.
https://www.factoryfive.com/gallerie...ar-suspension/
The rearmost part of the axle, the banana bracket, is about 1/2 inch ahead of the diagonal bar of the mount.
thanks. i'll do the rear end before gas tank/trunk panels.
so i'm done w/ the pedal box, front suspension, steering rack. any recs on what i should be doing next while I wait on the rear end?
I still need to get wipers, but could be installing the heater unit. I can also get all the cockpit aluminum drilled.
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post #103 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 09:27 PM
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Not sure which heater you are going with but the wiper motor and heater need to work w/ each other so find pics to double check locations.

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post #104 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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PS cockpit floor and under door panel drilled and riveted. Do you rivet any of the panel along the trans tunnel? I figured the top of the panel gets riveted together with the top trans cover but wasn't sure about the lower portion of the vertical part of the panel.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #105 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 02:41 AM
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PS cockpit floor and under door panel drilled and riveted. Do you rivet any of the panel along the trans tunnel? I figured the top of the panel gets riveted together with the top trans cover but wasn't sure about the lower portion of the vertical part of the panel.
If you're not doing a removable trans tunnel cover, then the top will get riveted at the same time you install the cover. For the rest along the sides, there's a few inches that one of the diagonals is touching the panel, so I put a few rivets there. But the rest doesn't touch anything. You can see what I did in this pic. I did do a removable cover on this build, so the rivets along the top are flush rivets.


Everything looks really clean. You are using silicone or some kind of adhesive in addition to the rivets, right?

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post #106 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Everything looks really clean. You are using silicone or some kind of adhesive in addition to the rivets, right?[/QUOTE]

yes, silicone. I'll add some rivets to the diagonal cross members of the trans tunnel. thanks

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #107 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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I've seen several build threads showing a painted fuel tank. The one I received is bare metal. Did FF send painted ones in the past, or are others painting/ powder coating them, and is there a good reason to do so?

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #108 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 10:33 AM
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I've seen several build threads showing a painted fuel tank. The one I received is bare metal. Did FF send painted ones in the past, or are others painting/ powder coating them, and is there a good reason to do so?
Interesting. I've seen both. Painted and unpainted. The last two were painted. So now a year later you received an unpainted one. Assume you still received the plastic cover? If so, the tank itself is basically covered. All you can see from the bottom is the cover. Yes you could paint it. And yes you could have it powder coated while it's still new and unused. Have done that before too. But up to you whether it's worth it. Standard tanks in Mustangs were unpainted.

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post #109 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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I've seen several build threads showing a painted fuel tank. The one I received is bare metal. Did FF send painted ones in the past, or are others painting/ powder coating them, and is there a good reason to do so?
Interesting. I've seen both. Painted and unpainted. The last two were painted. So now a year later you received an unpainted one. Assume you still received the plastic cover? If so, the tank itself is basically covered. All you can see from the bottom is the cover. Yes you could paint it. And yes you could have it powder coated while it's still new and unused. Have done that before too. But up to you whether it's worth it. Standard tanks in Mustangs were unpainted.
Thanks, just trying to figure out if there's a good reason to paint it other than looks. And yes, there's still a cover that goes on bottom.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #110 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 12:46 AM
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Mine came unpainted, and I don’t see a really compelling reason to do so.


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Factory Five Roadster # 9513
2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack Donor
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2015 Mustang IRS
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post #111 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Riveted DS footbox inside and outside panels to each other. Will install inside panel once I get the firewall cut for heater and installed. I also installed nut couplers for the rear quick jacks so the body can be removed without dropping the fuel tank. Is it just me, or do previously drilled and cleco'd panels that fit together great no longer line up the minute you put silicone on them? So frustrating messing with them once they're sticky with silicone.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #112 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Got drop trunk kit assembled and trunk aluminum opening trimmed. The trunk aluminum is a bit difficult to clamp due to the bend so I ended up putting some 2x4s underneath to that I could clamp it to my work bench and get a jig saw to cut the metal. Got my breeze front battery box in as well. Do I really need #21 and #7 tap bits or could I just use appropriate sized drill bits and then tap them?
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #113 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 08:54 PM
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Do I really need #21 and #7 tap bits or could I just use appropriate sized drill bits and then tap them?
Every tap size has a recommended drill size, and normally are a number size. You're saying you don't have the #21 and #7 number size drills, so want to use something "close" with fractional drill bits? Which would be 5/32 and 13/64. Textbook answer would be that's not the best idea. The proper size drill bit and tap work together to form the proper threads and clearance. Many taps sets include the proper size drill bits. Apparently yours doesn't. You could probably get away with it in this case. But personally I'd recommend having the proper number size drills for whatever taps you're planning to use. You can buy them individually. Or a cheap set like this from HF is actually pretty decent. https://www.harborfreight.com/60-pc-...set-61690.html.

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post #114 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Every tap size has a recommended drill size, and normally are a number size. You're saying you don't have the #21 and #7 number size drills, so want to use something "close" with fractional drill bits? Which would be 5/32 and 13/64. Textbook answer would be that's not the best idea. The proper size drill bit and tap work together to form the proper threads and clearance. Many taps sets include the proper size drill bits. Apparently yours doesn't. You could probably get away with it in this case. But personally I'd recommend having the proper number size drills for whatever taps you're planning to use. You can buy them individually. Or a cheap set like this from HF is actually pretty decent. https://www.harborfreight.com/60-pc-...set-61690.html.
I don't have a tap set yet, so maybe this problem will be nonexistent once I get a tap set if the bits are included.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #115 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Gas pedal and heater worked on tonight. My accelerator cable doesn't have a threaded end to accept a nut. Thoughts? The template for the heater is also off, needing to be moved by about 1/4" in superior and lateral directions. The blue marker is the ideal location of the holes while the black shows the holes from the template.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #116 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 11:39 AM
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...The template for the heater is also off, needing to be moved by about 1/4" in superior and lateral directions. The blue marker is the ideal location of the holes while the black shows the holes from the template.
That's not at all unusual. Glad you caught that before cutting the holes.


John

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Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #117 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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Gas pedal installed. FF apparently sent wrong throttle cable so I'll need to wait on that. Planning on doing battery box next but need to buy some taps for that.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #118 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:16 AM
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Gas pedal installed. FF apparently sent wrong throttle cable so I'll need to wait on that. Planning on doing battery box next but need to buy some taps for that.
Nice
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post #119 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:57 AM
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On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John

MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #120 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 01:36 PM
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Posts: 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John
When I went to the build school in January they mentioned this and showed how the pedal can get stuck. Also how to fix it. They defiantly had a older version of the kit. I m curious to see of FFR corrected this?
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