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post #31 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 01:59 AM
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Heat the a-arm, not the ball joint. It shouldn't have to get so hot that the grease melts.


Last edited by rich grsc; 02-04-2019 at 10:20 AM.
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post #32 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
Heat the a-arm, not the ball joint. It should have to get so hot that the grease melts.
Should or should not melt the grease?


#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #33 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 10:19 AM
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Should or should not melt the grease?
"Should not" sorry
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post #34 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by RobW View Post
Egchewy,

I am not much further along than you and at my rate of progress will probably be way behind in no time. Just about each step so far has been met with frustration of some sort. Tabs too narrow, too wide, UCAs incorrect, etc... After reading several build threads, mock up your work and ask for opinions before finalizing. Everything that you are going through has already been figured out by someone else. Learn from their trial and errors. Before modifying something, ask questions. Somehow, I was lucky with the ball joints. They threaded right on without issue. I had read that putting in the freezer helps. Mine were in my quite cold garage offered no resistance. I did use a wire brush on the threads first to get any crud off but had no issue. Once I got the "looks good" responses to pictures I posted on the other forum, I loosened and added thread locker and tightened on my bench vice.

I am going the donor route. My next step is to prep my donor rear end and set up the 3 link.

Good luck!

Rob
Solid advice right there.


John

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post #35 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 05:23 PM
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Nice tool!! necessity is the mother of invention
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post #36 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Ball joint-2, me-0
Ok, so I used a kitchen butane torch on the a- frames for like 2 minutes, moving it circumferentially to get an even heating. Ball joint was in bench vise and still wouldn't budge. Should I apply more heat, more leverage, or both? From my research, it looks like the correct ball joint socket is a 1-59/64" (odd size) so I ordered a socket and will get a breaker bar and cheater bar and show this whos the boss! Also wondered if an impact air gun would take it off. I must have underestimated my own strength when tightening these 😂

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #37 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 10:24 AM
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The thread locker doing it's job is what's preventing you from removing it. It's gonna' take more heat than you'll generate with a butane torch. Don't worry about melting grease out of the ball joint (aside from making a bit of a mess)--- you'll pump it full again when you lube it the first time.

Good luck,
Jeff
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post #38 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 12:27 PM
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The socket is PROBABLY just a 50mm ( if I did the math right).
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post #39 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got the BJs unstuck using a propane torch and air impact gun. Stripped the coating off with a wire wheel and it hand threaded in perfectly. Torqued to 100ft lbs. I had to wait for my BJ socket to arrive in the mail. I had a 2' breaker bar and a 3'steel pipe cheater bar waiting just in case. Front suspension is taking shape. The steering arm has a smooth side and a rougher side. Which side should face the ground? The manual just states that the tie rods attach from the bottom.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #40 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 11:09 AM
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Happy to hear that you resolved the ball joint issue! After you confirmed that it would thread all the way in did you back it out a couple of turns and apply thread locker? I'f not I'd recommend that you do.

The steering arms install so that they angle outward with the larger diameter of the tapered hole facing down. In this photo the arm on the right is installed correctly with the one on the left held next to it so that the difference between the large and small diameter of the tapered hole is visible.



Cheers,
Jeff

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post #41 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Happy to hear that you resolved the ball joint issue! After you confirmed that it would thread all the way in did you back it out a couple of turns and apply thread locker? I'f not I'd recommend that you do.

The steering arms install so that they angle outward with the larger diameter of the tapered hole facing down. In this photo the arm on the right is installed correctly with the one on the left held next to it so that the difference between the large and small diameter of the tapered hole is visible.



Cheers,
Jeff
Thanks. The difference is subtle. I think I need to flip them because I have the smoother side with the smaller hole facing down. And yes, I did use red loctite before torquing it down and marked a line across the BJ and UCA to visualize if it starts backing out.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #42 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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UCA rear nut/bolt

Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
Finally got the BJs unstuck using a propane torch and air impact gun. Stripped the coating off with a wire wheel and it hand threaded in perfectly. Torqued to 100ft lbs. I had to wait for my BJ socket to arrive in the mail. I had a 2' breaker bar and a 3'steel pipe cheater bar waiting just in case. Front suspension is taking shape. The steering arm has a smooth side and a rougher side. Which side should face the ground? The manual just states that the tie rods attach from the bottom.
I also wanted to mention that the rear nut/bolt combo when installing the UCA is very hard to hold due to the space constraints from the frame. you can't really fit a normal wrench or socket because the nut is so close to the frame. I ended up holding the nut with the open end of a cresent wrench perpendicular to the frame and used a 1/2in piece of steel tubing in the closed end of the wrench to get leverage while I tightened the bolt from the outside. On the second side, I found that if I spun the nut in the right position, I could use the wrench on the nut and it would wedge against the frame, holding tension while I torqued the bolt from the outside. I'm sure everyone's encountered this same problem, but haven't read anyone else's solutions.
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post #43 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 05:33 PM
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In looking at your pictures i see that the UCA are mounted to the face of the frame. The instructions say they should be mounted to the top of the frame. "Use the mount holes that are horizontal on the top of the 2”x 3” tube, not the side vertical ones."
Maybe someone else can confirm this.
Rick
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post #44 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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In looking at your pictures i see that the UCA are mounted to the face of the frame. The instructions say they should be mounted to the top of the frame. "Use the mount holes that are horizontal on the top of the 2”x 3” tube, not the side vertical ones."
Maybe someone else can confirm this.
Rick
All is good. Had a minor panic attack after reading this but checked the manual again.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #45 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 06:51 PM
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All is good. Had a minor panic attack after reading this but checked the manual again.
That is exactly opposite of my MK4 base kit manual. Are you building a MK4 complete kit?
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post #46 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy View Post
All is good. Had a minor panic attack after reading this but checked the manual again.
That is exactly opposite of my MK4 base kit manual. Are you building a MK4 complete kit?
Complete kit. The top holes must be for OEM UCA. I was wondering what the other holes by the LCAs were for since the bushings partially cover them up on my kit. They must be for OEM LCAs.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #47 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 07:51 PM
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Complete kit. The top holes must be for OEM UCA. I was wondering what the other holes by the LCAs were for since the bushings partially cover them up on my kit. They must be for OEM LCAs.
The base kit uses the donor lower control arms. I would guess that the difference between them and the FFR LCA is the reason for the different UCA mount locations. The reason for the multiple holes for the LCA has to do with the difference between Fox body and SN95 LCA. The Fox body use the outer holes.
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post #48 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 08:30 PM
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The location for the upper a-arms has nothing to do with which control arms you use, but if you use the donor spindle(top holes), or FFR spindles(side hole). His are correct based on the spindle used.
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post #49 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 10:21 PM
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What Rich said. Top UCA holes are for Mustang derived spindles with adapters, side holes are for FFR spindles. As for the lowers; tubular arms use the outer holes, Mustang stamped steel lowers use the inner holes.

Jeff

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post #50 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Should I follow the sequence in the manual or the YouTube tutorials? In the videos, they start the steering column after the front suspension and brakes. In the manual, the rear axle comes next. I don't have a rear end yet so I was wondering if working on steering next would mess anything up.

#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #51 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 12:30 AM
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...I don't have a rear end yet so I was wondering if working on steering next would mess anything up.
Nope, carry on!

Jeff

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post #52 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Front brakes assembled. Waiting on FFR to send me the bolt that attach calipers to spindle as they were missing from my order.
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #53 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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steering rack issues

installed the steering rack today. I used a combo of the FF youtube videos and manual for guidance.
One thing that I noticed is that all the parts on the video slide together and apart so very easily! This is not the case in my situation. Lots of tapping with the plastic mallet to get things together/apart.

It started with the steering rack adapter. I removed the stock one and replaced it w/ the complete kit one. The old was on so snuggly that I had to put it in a bench vise and pound on the steering shaft with a plastic mallet to get it off. It didn't just fall off like in the video.
Also, there's no way to put the steering shaft on if you tighten down the flange bearing bolts first. There's just not enough room/slack to put the adapter on to the steering rack. Also the video shows the set screws of the pillow bearing facing the front of the car while the manual says to put it facing the rear. I followed the manual instead of the video on this one.

now here's the bigger issue i'm running into. I put the steering wheel on temporarily to find the center. you should be able to turn the wheel 5 full rotations, right? at least that's what they're showing in the video. well my wheel lock to lock is only 3 full revolutions. any thoughts? different spline ratio in the video?
I also need to adjust my lower adapter because the steering wheel is a bit crooked on one side compared to the other. I read that it's usually because you're off by one tooth at the lower shaft adapter.

Last edited by egchewy; 02-12-2019 at 11:03 AM.
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post #54 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics from the steering build up
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#9503 MK4 complete kit
1966 289 SBF HiPo bored 30 over
Tremec T5Z
8.8" Moser rear end w/ 3.55 gear ratio
manual steering
RT drop trunk
Breeze front battery box
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post #55 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 11:37 AM
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I recommend you move the bearing holder and bearing to the inside of the foot box. If you need to remove the shaft in the future it will be much easier.
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post #56 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 12:37 PM
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...you should be able to turn the wheel 5 full rotations, right? at least that's what they're showing in the video. well my wheel lock to lock is only 3 full revolutions...
No. The FFR manual rack is 15:1 ratio which equates to approximately 3 turns lock to lock (depending on the limiters). I've not watched any of the installation videos and don't know what they are showing but 5 turns would be dump truck sloooooow!

Jeff

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post #57 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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I recommend you move the bearing holder and bearing to the inside of the foot box. If you need to remove the shaft in the future it will be much easier.
you're talking about the flange bearing on the firewall, correct?
any potential problems installing it on the inside rather than the outside of the footbox? I'm going to have to loosen it anyway to get the spline adapter adjusted so my wheel turns the same amt both ways.
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post #58 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 03:06 PM
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you're talking about the flange bearing on the firewall, correct?
any potential problems installing it on the inside rather than the outside of the footbox? I'm going to have to loosen it anyway to get the spline adapter adjusted so my wheel turns the same amt both ways.
There isn't a problem moving it to the inside. I always recommend the inside, that's how it is on my car. It is a little inconvenient tightening the setscrew, but it's worth being able to remove the shaft.
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post #59 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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There isn't a problem moving it to the inside. I always recommend the inside, that's how it is on my car. It is a little inconvenient tightening the setscrew, but it's worth being able to remove the shaft.
Is there a set screw on the flange bearing? i just thought there were 2 on the pillow bearing. I guess i'll need to look closer.
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post #60 of 260 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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No. The FFR manual rack is 15:1 ratio which equates to approximately 3 turns lock to lock (depending on the limiters). I've not watched any of the installation videos and don't know what they are showing but 5 turns would be dump truck sloooooow!

Jeff
I actually checked my daily driver this morning and it only has 3 full revolutions lock to lock. 5 turns would be like driving a school bus.
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