Engine puking out of radiator cap...does this seem like a blown head gasket? - Page 6 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #151 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Redfish View Post
Thanks guys, excited to (hopefully) get the rebuild started soon.

Looks like AFR doesnít list a stud kit on their website. I think itís because their heads are 1/2Ē, and the block is 7/16Ē threads, therefore the use of the stepped bolt kit. Iíll do some more searching.
You should be able to find some sleeves for the AFR's that take them down to 7/16. I think that some of the edelbrock heads had the same issue at one time.

EDIT: ARP makes a sleeve set, they call them bushings. Jegs and summit also have them available in Trick Flow and AFR brands.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...-8598/overview


Last edited by Derald Rice; 05-27-2018 at 10:06 PM.
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post #152 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 11:55 AM
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Did the heads on my 351 windsor last year. All went well until start up. Ran like crap. Sprayed motor with throttle body cleaner and discovered major leak from the front and rear of the valve covers. Used felpro gasket set which comes in four pieces- both sides, front and back. Moral of the story- throw out the front and rear gaskets and use a good amount of grey gasket seal.. Problem solved.
I will just add to be careful how much silicone you use. I lay the intake side gaskets in place dry and then carefully lay the manifold in place. Then I look at the gap between manifold and block. In my case it is a maximum of 1/16 inch so not much silicone needed. A couple of years ago there was one FFRr who kept having leaking intake gaskets. He finally realized that there was actually a slight interference, block to intake, so the intake was not being pulled tight at the intake gaskets because the block was holding it off the heads slightly.


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post #153 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 01:40 PM
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Studs do a great job securing cylinder heads. But I'd be surprised if you could get the heads off with the engine in the car. You have to pull the heads straight off the studs and I can't imaging doing that without running into the footboxes. Great news on finding the correct head gaskets, you just may be able to enjoy driving your car this year.

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post #154 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 04:06 PM
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Studs do a great job securing cylinder heads. But I'd be surprised if you could get the heads off with the engine in the car. You have to pull the heads straight off the studs and I can't imaging doing that without running into the footboxes. Great news on finding the correct head gaskets, you just may be able to enjoy driving your car this year.

Glen
OK...... I'll say it again.....When you remove the heads you simply remove the nuts, then backout the studs , and lift the heads off. Same procedure as if you used head bolts.
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post #155 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-04-2018, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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Frig. Just about ready for the rebuild. Heads checked out ok for flatness. Iíve pretty much got all the surfaces cleaned and a tap run down the block threads.


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post #156 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Progress...


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post #157 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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After two long days, success! Initially the car had a tough time starting, until I rotated the dizzy a lot. I think I may have an arcing issue inside the distributor. I had a similar thing happen and leave me stuck for a few hours last summer.

So, some tuning ahead and some heat cycles, fingers crossed that the puking and smoking is cured.

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post #158 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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https://youtu.be/ujpJ_6DP3BQ

Can’t figure out how to embed it!

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315 Mod, IRS, FR500s, Power Cobra Brakes, Manual Steering

'68 Mustang Hardtop, 302, C4

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post #159 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 02:21 AM
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Congratulations

Sounds great. Hope it's all sorted out.

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https://youtu.be/ujpJ_6DP3BQ

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post #160 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 10:36 AM
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Late to the party here, and didn't read thru all the posts. But it looks like your vacuum advance is not hooked up in the vid. You need to be hooked up, and to full manifold vac, not the timed port vacuum. I just rebuilt mine and fired it up a couple days ago, had it hooked up to timed port vac by mistake. No advance at idle, had to really dial in extra timing with the dizzy to start it and keep it running at idle, like you. Reset timing, car would idle but got extremely hot very quickly and overflowed the rad cap, due to overheating from retarded timing at idle. Did some research, hooked up to full manifold vac, now have timing advance at idle, runs cool and strong, all is good.


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post #161 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, yep it runs! Still tbd if Iíve solved the coolant issue. Hope to get some time on it over the next week or so.

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Sounds great. Hope it's all sorted out.

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315 Mod, IRS, FR500s, Power Cobra Brakes, Manual Steering

'68 Mustang Hardtop, 302, C4
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post #162 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, no vacuum advance hooked up, but shouldnít be needed for setting initial timing. #1 Piston was at TDC and distributor was clocked to the #1 position on the cap. I donít think itís off by a tooth on the cam gear, but may have to double check that. I havenít had a chance to check timing, but that will be telling too.

Just ordered a new distributor cap tonight, so hopefully thatís the cure for starting. More to come!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcondos View Post
Late to the party here, and didn't read thru all the posts. But it looks like your vacuum advance is not hooked up in the vid. You need to be hooked up, and to full manifold vac, not the timed port vacuum. I just rebuilt mine and fired it up a couple days ago, had it hooked up to timed port vac by mistake. No advance at idle, had to really dial in extra timing with the dizzy to start it and keep it running at idle, like you. Reset timing, car would idle but got extremely hot very quickly and overflowed the rad cap, due to overheating from retarded timing at idle. Did some research, hooked up to full manifold vac, now have timing advance at idle, runs cool and strong, all is good.

FFR4462K MKII
331 Dual 390CFM Holley Quads, AFR 185s, Comp Cams XE274HR
315 Mod, IRS, FR500s, Power Cobra Brakes, Manual Steering

'68 Mustang Hardtop, 302, C4
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post #163 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 01:21 PM
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... You need to be hooked up, and to full manifold vac, not the timed port vacuum...
While there is some valid reasoning for using manifold vac, it doesn't work for every situation. Whether vac advance is connected to the timed or manifold port depends on a lot of parameters. I don't think a blanket statement that every engine should use manifold vac advance is a good idea.
gsides9 and railroad thanked this.

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post #164 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Over the past few days, I've been able to pull it out of the garage and let it idle for a bit. Got the distributor cap swapped out and reset the timing. In addition to the cap being suspect, appears I was 'off by a tooth'! I can't believe that still happens after the number of times I've pulled out the distributor. Running about 13 degrees initial timing, ~900 RPMs at idle. I got in a 30 minute drive as well.

I really think I fixed the coolant issue, here's why:
- No puking so far
- After the few heat cycles, the coolant is right at the top of the Harrison tank; and there is coolant in the overflow tank
- After about an hour of cool-down, the hoses are soft (before the system would stay pressurized)

Another benefit is that I think I did a better job on preloading the lifters. The valvetrain is much quieter, no ticking.

Seems I may have a new issue to solve. After my drive yesterday, had oil pooling up on top of each side of the timing cover. This was not an issue before. I know a laid a thick bead of silicone across the oil galley (no gasket), but hoping I went far enough up on each side. I'll be keeping an eye on it, and hope I don't have to pull the intake (again!).

FFR4462K MKII
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315 Mod, IRS, FR500s, Power Cobra Brakes, Manual Steering

'68 Mustang Hardtop, 302, C4
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post #165 of 165 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:58 AM
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good to hear you got a handle on it, yep sounded like retarded timing.
When I installed my intake, I laid down the silicone, then set manifold in place (using intake bolts with heads cut off as guides), quickly removed it and checked if the silicone contacted the entire sealing surface (which it didn't!) then added a touch more silicone and dropped it back on. Also did you make sure the dizzy had the O-ring on the shaft in place before installing it?

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