Engine puking out of radiator cap...does this seem like a blown head gasket? - Page 5 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #121 of 165 (permalink) Old 04-21-2018, 06:15 AM
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Interesting...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redfish View Post
...Rick - I'm running an overflow tank, but I'm trying to use the Harrison tank like a true degas tank, and only filling it halfway to the top. The overflow tank should now be acting more like a 'catch can' than an overflow tank, I guess....
Let me know how this is working out.

That idea may be of some help with my problem of the fluid getting pushed into the overflow tank on warm up but not being drawn back into the block at cool down.

Regards, Rick.

EDIT:

I did a search on '88 Mustang radiator caps. I found one from Ford that has a specific note to align some arrows with the vent tube. Could something as simple as this be my problem of not getting the fluid back into the block?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator...SABEgKIxvD_BwE


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post #122 of 165 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I think itís a head gasket. Itís never smoked like this before. No ďI told you soísĒ!!!




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post #123 of 165 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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But damn, the paint looks good!!!

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post #124 of 165 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 10:05 PM
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Pull the spark plugs on that bank and looking at them should tell you which cylinder. Or you can pressure test it overnight and see which spark plug hole sprays water when you turn it over. Try it by hand first and watch for dribbles in case of a large leak amount. If nothing shows crank the starter and see where it blows out. Could be a little or a lot that comes out under pressure. Be careful. Narrows down your search when you do get it apart.
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post #125 of 165 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Good call. I pulled the plugs tonight, but yet to turn it over. #2 looks wet. #7 looks darker than the other 6.



And there was a little puddle under the passenger side exhaust pipe. Fluid does not smell like gas. Dark smear is from wiping the exhaust tip.


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post #126 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 03:09 PM
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You can retorque the heads and possibly fix your leak if it is the head gasket and it isn't too bad which sounds like it isn't too bad. I've done it, saves a lot of time.

On your replumbing, you had the right idea except the air bleed from the high pressure side to the can is going to bypass a lot of fluid. You can put a restrictor in this if all you want to bypass is air but it is still going to bypass something as you are plumbing from high to low pressure. If you had an air bleed on the upper suction side of the radiator plumbed to the can and the pressure side completely sealed would be ideal.

A good water pump will build 10-13# in the high pressure side then add on temperature increase pressure and you see what you have to try and seal if you don't want to have fluid escape.
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post #127 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-04-2018, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks vector, I already ordered all the baskets and the carbs are off, so Iím all in this time!

As far as the plumbing, Iíll have to think about that a bit more. I plumbed it this way since thereís no bleed on the radiator.

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post #128 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got some time in the garage, pulled the intake and driver side head. To the untrained eye, the head and gasket look fine. Hereís a few pics. It was the passenger side that was smoking, so will be interesting to see what that side looks like.





On a side note, the S3 intake gaskets looked good when removed.

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post #129 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 10:47 AM
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Could be the pic itself but the area below the two center cylinders on the head looks to me to be suspicious. Only 1/4 inch of aluminum between the bore and those water jacket passages.

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post #130 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 02:17 PM
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I think I would take the heads and intake manifold to a machine shop to check them for warpage. Maybe someone has already machined something wrong. I would consider Mike Forte since he is probably familiar with the pieces that you are using as opposed to a normal machine shop.


Good Luck, Glen


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post #131 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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Craig - Iíll have to study that side a bit more, and maybe take another pic too.

Quote:
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Could be the pic itself but the area below the two center cylinders on the head looks to me to be suspicious. Only 1/4 inch of aluminum between the bore and those water jacket passages.

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post #132 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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Glen - I may end up sending them out, although also thinking about doing a rebuild as is to see what happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsides9 View Post
I think I would take the heads and intake manifold to a machine shop to check them for warpage. Maybe someone has already machined something wrong. I would consider Mike Forte since he is probably familiar with the pieces that you are using as opposed to a normal machine shop.


Good Luck, Glen

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post #133 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Did more labor than inspection tonight. Other head is off. No smoking gun, but I need to do a closer inspection.

I didnít drain the block, which was a mistake, coolant all over. Searching the internet, still unclear which are the block drain plugs.

Debating if I should reuse the head bolts or not. They are ARP. I donít think I can use studs since the block is still in the car?


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post #134 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redfish View Post

The two center combustion chambers on this head appear to be "washed" as they would if they were taking coolant. See how they're cleaner and shiny in comparison to the other 6?

Jeff

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post #135 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Jeff. I took a quick look at them this morning. I think the camera flash is making them look washed, I'd but say they do appear damp compared to the others. I'll try to get better pics, and also some of the back side of the gasket / block.

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post #136 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 12:57 PM
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Combustion chamber on second from right has a very clean area at the bottom left. Steam cleaning likely.
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post #137 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 10:04 PM
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Of course you can reuse ARP head bolts. What do the piston tops look like? They are a better tell on if you have coolant into the combustion chamber.
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post #138 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, good to know. I dropped the heads off at the shop this morning. Weíll see what they find.

Hereís a pic of the passenger side block. #2 looks different than the others. I did give them a quick wipe to clean up coolant spill, but #2 stands out.



Quote:
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Of course you can reuse ARP head bolts. What do the piston tops look like? They are a better tell on if you have coolant into the combustion chamber.

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post #139 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 02:07 PM
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Passenger side, second from the front is cylinder #5. I'd say it has been taking coolant.

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post #140 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 02:30 PM
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Passenger side, second from the front is cylinder #5. I'd say it has been taking coolant.

Jeff
You need a second cup of coffee? That would be #2 on a sbf.
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post #141 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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So, just talked to the machine shop. I didnít notice, but he pointed out that these heads have a recessed groove around each chamber.

For some reason, I was smart enough to bring the used gaskets with me as well. Turns out who ever built this motor used the standard 1011-1 gaskets, and 1006 should be used for this type of setup.

Heís going to check the heads for flatness and weíll go from there. If ok, going to go ahead with the rebuild. Looks like Iíll be buying the 1006 gaskets, and finding a home for the replacement 1011s I just bought!

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post #142 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 11:12 AM
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WOW that is great news. Very nice to find a definite cause.

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post #143 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 11:14 AM
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https://www.google.com/search?q=sbf+...vfudc1q7mHKiM:

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post #144 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
You need a second cup of coffee? That would be #2 on a sbf.
No $#it---I know that but for a minute I guess I didn't! Not sure where my head was

It was a long painful week...

Red, happy to hear that you found a cause!

Cheers,
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post #145 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 03:45 PM
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I donít think I can use studs since the block is still in the car?
I don't see any reason not to use studs if you want to.

They are just a headless head bolt. Set the head on the dowels, run the studs in with an allen, and torque the nuts on.
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post #146 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 07:59 PM
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Derald that is a really good idea. Since I have never had studs in my hands i always assumed they are installed w/ double nuts. But an allen in the end would be great. I know how much nicer my intake nuts tightened on the studs vs the previous bolts so the advantage would be even greater w/ the much higher torque spec.

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post #147 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
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Derald that is a really good idea. Since I have never had studs in my hands i always assumed they are installed w/ double nuts. But an allen in the end would be great. I know how much nicer my intake nuts tightened on the studs vs the previous bolts so the advantage would be even greater w/ the much higher torque spec.
Until you need to remove the heads.????
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post #148 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 08:20 PM
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Until you need to remove the heads.????
When you remove the heads you simply remove the nuts, then backout the studs , and lift the heads off. Same procedure as if you used head bolts.
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post #149 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, excited to (hopefully) get the rebuild started soon.

Looks like AFR doesnít list a stud kit on their website. I think itís because their heads are 1/2Ē, and the block is 7/16Ē threads, therefore the use of the stepped bolt kit. Iíll do some more searching.

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post #150 of 165 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 09:16 PM
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heads

Did the heads on my 351 windsor last year. All went well until start up. Ran like crap. Sprayed motor with throttle body cleaner and discovered major leak from the front and rear of the valve covers. Used felpro gasket set which comes in four pieces- both sides, front and back. Moral of the story- throw out the front and rear gaskets and use a good amount of grey gasket seal.. Problem solved.
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