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post #151 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 12:24 AM
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Come on man, spill! How will us noobs learn anything if you keep all the lessons learned to yourself?

And congratulations.


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post #152 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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PM coming your way John.
JR


Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #153 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to get the radiator partially installed today. I'm using the Breeze upper and lower kits and the Breeze fan shroud. Will install the lower mount tomorrow.
JR
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #154 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-14-2017, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Lower radiator mounts

Not much to look at but I was able to mock up the Breeze lower radiator mount yesterday and paint the 1/2" square cross tube and let it dry overnight. Today I installed the mount with no problem.
JR
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #155 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-18-2017, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I got the upper radiator hose/filler installed today. Thanks to phileas fogg I borrowed his use of the Dayco B71863 hose and cut the 90* section off to use in place of the corrugated tubing. I chickened out on the lower radiator hose and bought Breezes #70758 piece.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #156 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 12:34 PM
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Looks like first start is just around the corner!


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MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #157 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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I put the headers on today for a "test fit". In the manual it recommends using thread locker but doesn't say red or blue, anybody know which? Also I have alum. heads should I use anti-seize instead? Thanks for any knowledge.
JR
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #158 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 09:30 PM
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I am going to be watching to see what others do. I put my bolts in either dry or w/ a little grease. To me, if you use gaskets these are one of the things that you will be re-tightening several times in the first 1000 miles until they stop moving. Maybe 6 years ago I got rid of all my header gasket problems by not using gaskets. I did do a lot of file and sanding work on the header flanges first though.
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post #159 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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I started installing the trunk alum. panels today only got the sides done so far. There's always tomorrow. Also received the Breeze lower radiator hose/tube will get it in tomorrow.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #160 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot the pics for today

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File Type: jpg IMG_0474.jpg (242.3 KB, 105 views)

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #161 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I got the Breeze lower radiator hose/tube kit (70758) installed today. Had to shorten the 90* hose at the water pump about 1" and the 90* hose at the radiator about 2". Also where the pipe passes under the x member is very close so I put a piece of radiator hose over the pipe and secured it with zip ties.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #162 of 340 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 11:31 AM
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You are making pretty steady progress. Should be able to do first start soon.
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post #163 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Since I "test fit" my headers a couple weeks ago I've been thinking which can be dangerous. I think I'm to remove them and replace the gaskets with high temp copper gasket maker. While I'm at it are studs preferable to the header bolts? It seems studs would make it easier to install the headers especially with the gasket maker. Any special nuts to use with the studs? I do have Ford Racing X Heads. Thanks for any knowledge and suggestions.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18

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post #164 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 04:55 PM
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I would much prefer studs but I wouldn't have room to get the header off of the stud on the driver side. I 'think' your engine is 302 based which is a little narrower than my 351 based engine so maybe you can do it. I would buy just two studs at the hardware store to try it.
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post #165 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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I've decided to use exhaust header studs instead of the supplied bolts for the BBK headers. The reason is I'm going to ditch the gaskets supplied with the headers for Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker. This will make for easier header installation with the Permatex. I made a mockup stud out of 3/8"-16 all thread. There is plenty of room on the d/s between the foot box and head. The depth of the holes in the head I measured at 2 1/8" the mockup stud is 1 5/8" and screwed in to the head as far as it will go with the header in place I have about 3/4" for the nut. I plan to use ARP header stud kit 100-1404. They give the stud length as 1.670"
Sorry for the blurry pic.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18

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post #166 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I got the dash covered and the gauges, ign and headlight switch in.
JR
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #167 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRCuz View Post
I've decided to use exhaust header studs instead of the supplied bolts for the BBK headers. The reason is I'm going to ditch the gaskets supplied with the headers for Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker. This will make for easier header installation with the Permatex. I made a mockup stud out of 3/8"-16 all thread. There is plenty of room on the d/s between the foot box and head. The depth of the holes in the head I measured at 2 1/8" the mockup stud is 1 5/8" and screwed in to the head as far as it will go with the header in place I have about 3/4" for the nut. I plan to use ARP header stud kit 100-1404. They give the stud length as 1.067"
Sorry for the blurry pic.
Excellent plan.
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post #168 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-12-2017, 11:57 AM
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Things are looking great. I have been sidelined on my build for a while. Hope to get back to it soon.
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post #169 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-12-2017, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Glen. I haven't gotten a whole lot done lately either. Back on Feb. 25 we had a pretty bad hail storm in my area and I think probably better than 90% of the houses have had new roofs and siding installed and it is still going on. My house is finished but I've been painting window trim, my garage door and front door and I'm just about finished. On the dash I did use the felt and vinyl that you used and it looks great, thanks.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #170 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to remove the headers and exhaust gaskets today and install the ARP header studs and reinstall the headers using Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker in place of the exhaust gaskets.
JR
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File Type: jpg IMG_0491.jpg (252.0 KB, 61 views)

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #171 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Started wiring today just got most of the harnesses laid out will begin making connections tomorrow. Here are a few pics not much to see though.
JR
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File Type: jpg IMG_0496.jpg (253.7 KB, 58 views)

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #172 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-20-2017, 01:25 PM
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Good start.

While you've got access, check the wiring on your inertia switch (mine & several others in the past were wired incorrectly). To do so, first remove the inertia switch from its connector. You'll see that there are three blades on the switch. Using an ohm meter with the two leads connected to the outer-most blades, verify that the switch is closed when the inertia switch is pushed down and that the switch is open when the inertia switch wobbles around. Next, look at the connector; the two wires should be connected to the two outer-most slots. If not, use a jeweler's screwdriver to remove the pin & wire from the middle slot and move it to the open outer slot.

Re-connect the switch to the connector and you're done.


John
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Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #173 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-20-2017, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks John, I will check the inertia switch. It looks like I have excess length on the alternator wire I'll be shortening it by about 12" to 18". In the coil/efi crank bundle since I'm using a carb I don't use all but the coil wire?
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18

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post #174 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-20-2017, 07:55 PM
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I'm reasonably sure that's correct. Of course, if your carb has an electric choke you'll use that (tan?) RF wire. If not, you can repurpose that wire to power a seat heater (maybe two depending on the make), or a cigarette lighter (I like that rather than a USB port because you can use the lighter to power other stuff...like a small air compressor for filling your tires). Also, the RF blue EFI Crank wire has power ONLY when you crank. Be sure to cap it.


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MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #175 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-20-2017, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again John, I do have an elec choke. A few weeks age Craig posted a link for a combo cig lighter/usb port from west marine which I ordered so I do need to find power for that plus I'll be adding a couple switches and probably seat heaters. That's where I'll need help.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18

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post #176 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-21-2017, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Not a whole lot done today. I did modify the block-off plate for the D/S foot box front to run the hoses from the brake reservoirs in to the M/C's. I didn't do it before I bled the brakes so you know what that means. I'll bleed the brakes tomorrow.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #177 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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OK I need some help (some would say nothing new). I was going to install the thermo temp control switch in the plugged port in the intake manifold but the port is too large. The port in the thermostat housing is not finished. There is another plugged port on the d/s front corner of the intake manifold which is the correct size for the thermo temp control switch. Can I use the plugged port on the left front corner for the temp control switch or do I have to get another thermostat housing with a threaded port for the temp control switch? Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks
JR
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #178 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 07:47 PM
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The one on the driver's side is where my radiator fan temp switch is. I 'think' that is what you are referring to correct? The larger port on the psgr side is where I have a heater hose. BUT, where will you put the temp sensor for the gauge? Mine is in the T-stat housing where you have a cast but not machined port.
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post #179 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Craig, yes you are correct. I ordered another t-stat housing with a machined port.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #180 of 340 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 12:44 PM
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When you get the new thermostat housing, trace the outline of the baseplates - old and new - and make sure they are EXACTLY the same size (you can't just hold the baseplates up against each other because they are asymmetric). Apparently, there are differences by as much as 1/16". The smaller ones have been known to leak, depending on the intake's mounting surface. If it turns out the new one is undersized, you may be able to move it side to side to maximize the sealing surface.


John
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MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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